Gentleman, the time is now.
I've lurked and learned on here for a number of years and it's time to make some considerable changes to the J. The idea, is to build a tank. And by a tank, I mean an overbuilt and armored behemoth that will laugh at whatever I throw at it. So I've come here to log the progress, as well as provide and obtain some answers while I'm at it. So jock up and strap in. Let's do this.
I've got a '91 60 and a '96 10.25 w/ discs in various stages of dis-assembly in my garage, pics of that later. I know, I should have looked for a 79. I did and was unsuccessful. Plus I'm thinking with the offset Diff I may actually benefit. More on that later as well.
I was hoping to have the axles stripped, rebuilt and installed before the end of the month but I'm afraid that may not happen. Most likely because I don't know how to weld, Sucks to suck, I know. Plus it seems as there's no fab shops nearby in the western panhandle.
This build will be conducted in roughly 3 stages.
STAGE 1: Mobility
-Outboard front springs and shocks
-SOA- RE 1.5 Springs
-Crossover Steering (Chassis Unlimited)
-Repair/ Refurb axles and install
-Traction Bar (RuffStuff)
-TIRES: 37x13.5x17 Toyo MT
-WHEELS: 17x9 Steelies w/ 3.75" BS
-LOCKER: Front: Lock right / Rear: TrueTrac
STAGE 2: Up-Armor and Recovery
-FRONT: Arched Tube Cloaks
-REAR: PS corners & GenRight Extreme Flares
-BUMPER: Front: KD Fabworks / Rear: TBD
-WINCH: 9500lb w/ syn line
-OBA: A/C Compressor, ~2.5G tank and req'd fittings
-ACC: Taurus Fan, CB/PA, Gauges/Dash, 6x9 Driving Lights
STAGE 3: Power
-ENGINE: P-Pump 4BT
--MODS: I/C, Injectors, Fuel Pin, Snorkel w/ Windstar intake
Bought my Jeep in, I wanna say september of 08. Found it on CL from a fairly well off couple in TX who intended to use it as a "beach toy" but found it didn't have the space they wanted after loading it up with their stuff, so it sat in the garage. Bone stock except for some worn 31's and a front bumper put on by a PO.
That's how it sat at my dad's for a time while I went over to the sandbox. Got back and threw some money at it. Please excuse the super HOOYAH haircut. I didn't know better at the time. RE 4.5, AA SYE, PC MX-6 shocks and some 31x10.5 Pro Comp Xtreme Terrains. (I figured they were a good all around performer since it would mostly be seeing street use at the time... I was Wrong)
That's how it stayed for quite a while. Then life happened. Got married, got out end of 2010, then.. got divorced lol.
After installing and then removing the wife-mod towards the end of 2011, I was able to throw a little more money at it. Blew up the stock 35 and swapped in one out of '88 for expediency's sake. Which I have to say is Surprisingly Heavy as F###!! It turned out to be a blessing in disguise as, from what I've read, it's a non C-clip axle and the castings are more stout.
2JAN2013 I told civilian life to kick rocks for the second time. It sat in a storage unit all buttoned up for about two years while I was otherwise occupied.
Now that you're all caught up, I don't think I've missed anything SUPER important, so let's get on with it. I found the Sterling first. Loaded into my Expo and shlupped it home. Took me and 2 other dudes to drag it out.
It had been sitting for a bit, definitely needs some cleaning...
On the up side, the grease infused dirt serves as a pretty decent protectant.. sort of.
Comparison of the new beef
Cloaks on standby
Took me a while to figure how all this **** came apart. But eventually I started making some progress. Got the pig and the Sterling broken down for the most part. Suffice it to say the 10.25's got some issues that need to be addressed.
Took this right before I pulled the shafts.. BEEFY
Now, onto my problem child. Evidently, this axle has been like the village bicycle. Remnants of different perches adorn this lovely chunk of metal. AND apparently one or more of its former owners.. went full retard.
Problem 1: There are small holes burned through the tube. I know they go through because gear oil was seeping out of them.
Potential problem 2: Some cat went ham with God knows what and appears to have dug pretty well into the tube.
Proposed Solution: I was told on here, I think, to just burn in the holes and gaps until its sealed up and then grind down the excess until its flush(-ish).
Can anyone Confirm or contradict that?
: For the discs in the rear I remember reading they supposed to be off an 87 GM 3/4 ton pick up. Would that be an R2500, as listed here
Put the cut off wheel to the knuckles and just cut the ****ers off. Should have done that from the start but nooo... I had to try the hard way like everyone else had done. It took like 5-10 minutes, seriously. If anyone is ever taking the knuckles off and not going to re-use them, spare yourself some heartache and cut them off.
In other news:
OBA pieces have been accumulating. Fun note.. Stupidity costs money!!
I had a major brain malfunction and forgot that the standard 3/8" air hose has 1/4" NPT fittings. Researching parts late when you're tired is ill advised. I ordered all my hardware with 3/8 NPT. so yes I'll be using 1/2" FKing Air hose lol. So far I've got
- A/C Compressor
- 3/3.5G Air tank (Can't remember) from Ebay
- 3/4-3/8 reducers
- Snazzy manifold from Pnuemadyne
- check valve
- Oil/water Filter
- 175 PSI Relief Valve
- ViAir 120 on/150 off Pressure switch. (Only issue with this is it's not 1/4 NPT. It's smaller. so I have to take it to the hardware store and see if I can find an adapter.)
Reid Knuckles: 702.40 w/ S+H
Blue Torch Lower KP: 217.37 w S+H
sweet Hi- Steer setup with Bronze Reid KP Bushings and a drop pitman arm: 695.97 w S+H
Knowing this is gonna look so sick once the 60 is under my Jeep: Priceless
I have to find a knuckle stud because I managed to booger the threads, ON THE LAST ONE, because I didn't take the extra .5 second to seat the nut on a few more threads before I smacked it with a hammer. Lo and behold it wasn't seated properly... Gayyyy.
So, it's on to new brake calipers front and rear.
Sorry for lack of pics, my phone shat the bed on friday.. had to add that to the list of purchases as well
ALSO, what do you all think of this idea: I'd like to retain the factory top spring plate as it already has an integrated shock mounting position. Instead of cutting off the perfectly good Passenger side U-Bolt bracket, what if I were to just get new F350 U bolts and flip them around and then use a spring plate on top of that for them to bolt into. A little unorthodox sure but it appears like some of the other U bolt flip kits out there. I'll see if I have pics of what I'm talking about. If not I'll upload some when my new phone gets here ~Tuesday.
While you're reading this, let's talk about outboarding. I was directed to THIS
outboard kit for the front springs. I've been searching around and haven't seen any threads that gave me a warm fuzzy on all the details.
EDIT: I've since ordered the outboarding brackets from CU listed above as well as some shock tubes from Ruff Stuff.