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Unread 03-17-2006, 10:09 PM   #1
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Tomb Raider buildup #1

Hello all,

Well, I have decided to make a dedicated thread to this. I've seen several from other build ups of YJ's with 350's and 5.0L engines...but thought I would start one for my 4.0L swap. This seems to be a subject that many talk about, but seldom do. I'm sure this is mostly because you can buy 6cyl YJ's, and not 350 powered YJ's.

Often times I have seen in forums, when the subject of swapping a 4.0L into a 2.5L YJ, most initial responses are "just sell your YJ and buy a 4.0L YJ. Well....that in my case was not an option. So, here I am. I hope this thread will help others that are considering this project.

I bought a donor 1992 Cherokee Limited complete and running for $500 bucks. Matter of fact, drove it 150 miles home from the sellers house. It has the automatic aw4 transmission and the 4.0L H.O. engine. My rig currently has the ax5 manual tranny and the 2.5L L.O. engine. My plan is to take the 4.0L, aw4 and the NP242 transfer case from the cherokee and transplant it into my '95 YJ. Let the fun begin.

NOTE: I am not a mechanic. My primary job is in healthcare. I have never removed an engine from anything other than my bicycle. I have done small things such as brakes, starters, waterpumps...etc. I have changed a transmission once prior to this. I thought this information pertainent in case others felt the same before taking on a project such as this. This is in no way a bible to follow. Simply the path I took to more horsepower

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Unread 03-17-2006, 10:10 PM   #2
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My first order of business was to begin teardown of the donor. I needed to strip the engine bay, while not damaging the things that I would re-use. I knew I would need the complete engine wiring harness, the ECM, the engine(duh) and accessories. I wont go into great detail, but needless to say this was tougher than it looked. Mostly because I had to be careful while taking things out. It's not like tearing into something with disregard. You have to be aware of what you are removing, what is needed and what is not. I started on thursday afternoon, and by saturday afternoon, I had the engine pulled and sitting on blocks.




I used a come-a-long attached to my shed. Needless to say, this was much harder to get the engine out than it needed to be. This is a circumstance where the right tool would have made my life alot easier. I had to literally cut the engine out of the bay. I had to cut the frame mounts, and the crossmember of the frame in front so I could get the engine out without having to lift it any higher than the come-a-long would go. It was a pain in my butt.
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Unread 03-17-2006, 10:11 PM   #3
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My next task would be to remove the engine from my YJ. This time, I came armed with the proper tools.......an engine hoist. What took me 1 1/2 days to do on the cherokee, I accomplished in just over 4 hours with the engine hoist. My YJ engine was out.




My plan here is to leave all the YJ wiring intact until the cherokee wiring is in place and the jeep is running. Then I will start removing the wires I don't need. I would rather remove wires I don't need later than have to figure out which ones I removed that I actually might have needed.

A few notes of things I have perceived to this point.

1. Daimler-Chrysler got a bit smarter through the years with their wiring. The 95 was wired in a way that was much easier to get the engine out without having to cut a single wire. The 92 cherokee had wires running in/out of the firewall that went to the engine injector rail, ECM and la la land....all in the same wiring loom. It was very unorganized compared to the 95. The 95 had one loom of wires that went from the ECM to the engine. The 95 wiring was much easier to mess with.

2. The motor mounts on the 4 and the 6 are different, right down to the part number on them. This holds true for both Left and Right sides as well....they are not interchangeable.

3. You have to remove the alternator to get the passenger side motor mount bolt out.

4. On the 95, the ECM is on the drivers side firewall in the engine bay. I had noticed that on most other forum posts....the ECM on 2.5L YJ's was inside under the dash. Not sure what year this changed, but my 95' has it in the engine bay.

5. Measuring the 2 engines/tranny/tc drivetrains.....the 4.0L/aw4/242 is approximately 12" longer than the 2.5L/ax5/231 setup.

These are a few notes to this point. And this is the point at which I am at currently. I shall have more as I go through the project.

Scott
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Unread 03-18-2006, 07:46 AM   #4
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Looking good. I am considering the same in the near future. I will keep check on your progress.
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Unread 03-18-2006, 08:47 AM   #5
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gotta love the mix match tires on the XJ =)
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Unread 03-18-2006, 10:58 AM   #6
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I will be doing this swap over the summer so thanks for adding this cause i think i may need this. I have the donor engine out and wiring, ecu, etc.... but i had heard the 6 cyl and 4 cyl frame motor mounts were different the 6 cylinder longer? And i think you have to move the motor mounts like 4 inches if i'm correct here back to make room for the 6 to fit in... But i'll check up on this thread to see how you do it.
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Unread 03-18-2006, 12:37 PM   #7
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I think that you will have to move the engine mounts also. That is what all the sites say that I googled.


http://www.off-road.com/jeep/tech/4lswap/

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Unread 03-18-2006, 10:46 PM   #8
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rbn1357
I think that you will have to move the engine mounts also. That is what all the sites say that I googled.
You are both correct. Funny enough, thats what I spent my afternoon doing.....at least the removing part of it. I'm waiting on new mounts to come in, so here is where I stand. Placement should be 3.5-4" forward of the previous mount placement.








Notes about todays progress:

1. The grinding off of the mounts is mostly grunt work. Time and patience. The passenger side mount was easier to get to with the grinder than the drivers side. The drivers side had brake lines, fuel lines and odd's and ends that were not persay in the way, but I had to constantly be aware of where they were as not to knick them with the grinder. Be careful not to angle your grinder too deep into the frame. About a 30-45 degree angle of the grinder is plenty to knock the bead off the mounts and get them loose.

2. Not all 4 1/2" grinding wheels are the same. I bought a grinder that came with 3 wheels. I used 2 of them, and had started with the 3rd when I got the first mount off(passenger side.) It only took the rest of that one and half of a dewalt wheel to remove the drivers side. It seemed I was removing more grit from the cheap wheels than the metal itself. Save yourself time and sanity. Pay a few cents more and get decent grinding wheels. I used 1/4" thick wheels. If I had it to do again, I would have gotten 1/8" thick wheels. I think they would have cut the bead without having to grind off as much metal.

3. You will want to remove the front wheels so you can get access to the mounts from the wheel wells. Makes it much easier.

3. Make sure to smooth out the area where the mount was, as the new location actually overlaps the old. Debur everything.
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Unread 03-19-2006, 05:40 AM   #9
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I took my fenders and wheels off too, made it a lot easier to do the welding and fabbing. Watch the motor height when you put in the new mounts. It's easy to want to make them high to want to clear the pan on rocks, then the hood won't close.
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Unread 03-19-2006, 08:46 AM   #10
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JeeperDon
Watch the motor height when you put in the new mounts. It's easy to want to make them high to want to clear the pan on rocks, then the hood won't close.
And I would be just the one to do something like that....lol. Thanks for the tip.

Bye the bye....do you by chance have any pics of how you mounted your tranny? Or did you adjust the engine to use the stock skid.
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Unread 03-19-2006, 10:04 AM   #11
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Tomb Raider
And I would be just the one to do something like that....lol. Tanks for the tip. Bye the bye....do you by chance have any pics of how you mounted your tranny? Or did you adjust the engine to use the stock skid.
On the hood: I did that. In my case the hood 'just' rubbed. After driving for a few miles I noticed a smidge of red paint on the top of the air cleaner. I was able to shave 3/8" of rubber from the motor mounts, which lowered the motor just enough to not have a problem (been 16 months now).

In the skid: I fabbed up a totally new tubular skid, a pretty cool on in my opinion. I wish I had a pic. Basically it mounts to the inside vertical faces of the frame, so the bottom of the frame rails are unused. I did use a regular Jeep trans mount in the back, but it goes into the new skid.
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Unread 03-19-2006, 10:15 AM   #12
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awesome, looks good man.. keep the updates and pictures comming
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Unread 03-26-2006, 08:23 PM   #13
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Well, not much to update on. I've been kinda at a standstill. I ordered new motor and frame mounts last week, but got an email over the weekend saying they had been delayed until April 4th!! Needless to say, I cancelled the order and went down to the local dealership and ordered them direct. Since being a member of the local offroad club(so is the owner of the dealership) members get 25% off factory parts Anyway, parts here on wednesday! Perfect timing since I have thursday and friday off!

Anyway, took jeeperdon's advice and took off the fenders. Much much easier to get around the engine bay with them off. It will help alot with mounting the motor mounts as well.

I did manage to get everything pressure washed. Rented a 3000psi pressure washer and cleaned everything up. Motor looks much better, as does the inside of the engine compartment. Well worth the 28 dollar rental fee.

I also made a cover for the hole in the floorboard from the manual tranny. Went to the local steel supply and got a piece of treadplate and fabbed one up using the old one as a template. Bending it was a chore. 16gauge metal is still pretty damn thick when you have to bend a piece that small. But it turned out pretty well I thought. I still have to paint it, put in the holes for the tc shifter and a small one for the auto shifter but I will do that after the engine is set in place. Only two pics this update Have a good week! More pics and update on friday!


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Unread 03-27-2006, 07:45 AM   #14
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For the frame mounts, I just did a little extra grinding on the originals, and moved them forward on the frame. You'll find that using the AW4 requires setting the engine farther forward than a factory 4.0L, as teh tranny is longer than anything ever offered from the factory. I used the original location of the output shaft on the tcase as my reference point and set my mounts from there. I'm running an electric fan in front of the radiator with no problems so far.
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Unread 03-27-2006, 09:07 AM   #15
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ChevDog1
For the frame mounts, I just did a little extra grinding on the originals, and moved them forward on the frame. You'll find that using the AW4 requires setting the engine farther forward than a factory 4.0L, as teh tranny is longer than anything ever offered from the factory. I used the original location of the output shaft on the tcase as my reference point and set my mounts from there. I'm running an electric fan in front of the radiator with no problems so far.
The frame mounts I had were different. By that I mean, the passenger side was different than the drivers side. The drivers side was the same design as the I6's, but the passenger's side was shorter and actually sat taller, as it had some sort of extention, basically a 1" lift on it. It was all factory, but not like what I had seen in other's posts. Most of what I had seen however was on earlier models.....87-91's. Somewhere from 92-95, they changed the mounts on the 2.5L. Thats why I had to order new mounts.
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