A TJ truck build named "Dumpster Dive" - Page 264 - JeepForum.com

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post #3946 of 5952 Old 10-26-2013, 12:19 AM
IEcrawlerTJ01
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xWhatever on the extra eyeless Xj main


Gf's Cherokee has it as well as many friends and they all ride and flex great


SAVVY,CURRIE,GOODYEAR

Nuff said...
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post #3947 of 5952 Old 10-26-2013, 09:38 AM
MO2500
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Hendrix
I know I need a heavier spring up front, just not sure where to start.
Quote:
Originally Posted by Hendrix
1200.250.0200.0S upper spring 1200.250.250.0S lower spring. No preload at all.
You definitely don't need heavier springs on the CO's then. If anything you will need lighter springs to get ride height with 1-2" of pre-load. If the COs feel too soft it's the valving that needs adjustment and fixing with springs will just lead to a bouncy ride. I run 125/200 up front on mine with 1" of preload now. Might have to up pre-load to 2-3" or go back to 150/200 when I add the winch and engine swap. I don't think dumpster is that much heavier.

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post #3948 of 5952 Old 10-26-2013, 09:45 AM Thread Starter
Hendrix
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MO2500
You definitely don't need heavier springs on the CO's then. If anything you will need lighter springs to get ride height with 1-2" of pre-load. If the COs feel too soft it's the valving that needs adjustment and fixing with springs will just lead to a bouncy ride. I run 125/200 up front on mine with 1" of preload now. Might have to up pre-load to 2-3" or go back to 150/200 when I add the winch and engine swap. I don't think dumpster is that much heavier.
Yeah, did not understand much about the COs till hours of reading last night. Going to order some 150s. Can I use the 200 I have already in the upper in lower location With the 150?
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post #3949 of 5952 Old 10-26-2013, 10:04 AM
84jeepcj7rock
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I have 14" travel c/o in the front of mine. The Kings are designed for 150 psi of nitrogen. As far as spring rates go, a lot depends on how they are mounted as well as the weight. Mine are laid back about 5 deg and the bottoms are all the way out to the C's. about 10deg. Running 100 over 250 lb springs and I still don't need a sway bar and it sounds like we have the same belly height. If you have a 12" travel shock, make sure you do not run shorter than a 12" spring on the bottom. If you do, it can get caught under the shock body at full droop. I have some extra 14" springs you can try
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post #3950 of 5952 Old 10-26-2013, 01:09 PM
MO2500
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Hendrix
Yeah, did not understand much about the COs till hours of reading last night. Going to order some 150s. Can I use the 200 I have already in the upper in lower location With the 150?
Yes you can use any combo of the springs you have, and I have some 12" eibach 150# springs I'm trying to sell if you want to try those with the 200 or 250s you have now.

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post #3951 of 5952 Old 10-26-2013, 01:45 PM Thread Starter
Hendrix
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MO2500
Yes you can use any combo of the springs you have, and I have some 12" eibach 150# springs I'm trying to sell if you want to try those with the 200 or 250s you have now.
That might be a good deal, but I want to keep my ride height where it is. If I add some preload it should be good?
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post #3952 of 5952 Old 10-26-2013, 01:54 PM
MO2500
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Hendrix
That might be a good deal, but I want to keep my ride height where it is. If I add some preload it should be good?
You want to have preload. Wayne suggests 1-2" in the front and 2-3" in the back as a general rule but he sometimes uses more.

You can find your exact corner sprung weight with the coils you have with a few measurements and plugging them into a spring calc. Then you can better decide what springs to use to get your desired ride height with 1-2" of preload on the coils.

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post #3953 of 5952 Old 10-26-2013, 05:29 PM Thread Starter
Hendrix
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MO2500
You want to have preload. Wayne suggests 1-2" in the front and 2-3" in the back as a general rule but he sometimes uses more. You can find your exact corner sprung weight with the coils you have with a few measurements and plugging them into a spring calc. Then you can better decide what springs to use to get your desired ride height with 1-2" of preload on the coils.
Going to adjust them with 1-2" preload tomorrow and report back. It's going to be a little high in the front till I get my rear leafs figured out.

Got the cage about 50% welded today, got the seat belt tabs fully welded and trimmed the center console to fit the seat mount tubes.

Pictures later.
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post #3954 of 5952 Old 10-26-2013, 08:24 PM Thread Starter
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I spent most of the day trying to finish up the cage. I started by adding the windshield tubes and gusset to the spreader bars. Then spent most of the day trying to remove the cage. And Failed. Never again will I build a cage with sanctions and a stock B pillar.



This one will get painted in the Jeep I guess. I cannot figure out how to get the cage to move past the braces for the door latches now that its all one piece.

Next cage that I build in the spring will be through the dash and custom built to look like the half cab is there even when its not along with a double B pillar design in the cab. And a full cage in the bed.

Here are a few pictures.









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post #3955 of 5952 Old 10-26-2013, 08:47 PM
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Looking good!
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post #3956 of 5952 Old 10-26-2013, 11:33 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Hendrix View Post
I spent most of the day trying to finish up the cage. I started by adding the windshield tubes and gusset to the spreader bars. Then spent most of the day trying to remove the cage. And Failed. Never again will I build a cage with sanctions and a stock B pillar.



This one will get painted in the Jeep I guess. I cannot figure out how to get the cage to move past the braces for the door latches now that its all one piece.

Next cage that I build in the spring will be through the dash and custom built to look like the half cab is there even when its not along with a double B pillar design in the cab. And a full cage in the bed.

Here are a few pictures.








Awesome!

Are going to wheel with the rear that low?
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post #3957 of 5952 Old 10-27-2013, 03:36 AM
superduty59
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Hendrix you have built an awsome rig. You definitely have some skills. I have always wanted to do something like this with a CJ7 or a YJ. I would definitely go with diesel power like a 4BT and a taller stance but I understand why you went so low to keep a LCOG. I hope you get to be on a few covers of some magazines.
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post #3958 of 5952 Old 10-27-2013, 05:43 AM
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Use ratchet straps to pull in the ends of the cage so they clear (unless, of course, you have the cage running under the seats, then this won't work). I have to go back and follow the wheel-well to clean, you kinda cant do that, though.

USAF
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post #3959 of 5952 Old 10-27-2013, 07:49 AM
84jeepcj7rock
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Looks good Hendrix. Sounds like you see why I didn't want to add on to my cage. Can't wait to see it in person.
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post #3960 of 5952 Old 10-27-2013, 08:18 AM Thread Starter
Hendrix
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ashland82391
Awesome! Are going to wheel with the rear that low?
not a chance, if I do not raise it a little I am going to high line the rear flares to match the front.

Quote:
Originally Posted by superduty59
Hendrix you have built an awsome rig. You definitely have some skills. I have always wanted to do something like this with a CJ7 or a YJ. I would definitely go with diesel power like a 4BT and a taller stance but I understand why you went so low to keep a LCOG. I hope you get to be on a few covers of some magazines.
Thanks I wanted a 4bt in the beginning. It will eventually get a v8 of some kind. For now I could not be happier with the way the 4.0 and AW4 are running. It's just that low so it's easy to get in and out of. And it just looks good long and low.

Quote:
Originally Posted by dwbrown
Use ratchet straps to pull in the ends of the cage so they clear (unless, of course, you have the cage running under the seats, then this won't work). I have to go back and follow the wheel-well to clean, you kinda cant do that, though.
Can't to that, the seats are mounted to the cage with tubes running across the tub. I can cut out the door striker reinforcement to get the cage out, but I really do not want to do that.


Quote:
Originally Posted by 84jeepcj7rock
Looks good Hendrix. Sounds like you see why I didn't want to add on to my cage. Can't wait to see it in person.
Yes, did not see this hold up. I could have built one from scratch by now.


Just going to finish it today and spray some black spray paint on it. I will deal with getting the cage out when I put it up for sale in the spring. Probably ask 400.00 for the front cage. Then finish the rear how the buyer wants once it's in there Jeep. I know some locals that might be interested.
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