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A TJ truck build named "Dumpster Dive"

994K views 6K replies 336 participants last post by  NashvilleTJ 
#1 · (Edited)
Another TJ build with not so much bling,except where needed. Very few bolt on mods, and a ton of custom mods.




I acquired a 1997 TJ project that had been abandoned by a few previous owners. I felt like the TJ needs another chance to make it out of the garage for good and not to go to the crusher.

Now on with the plan. I want to build this Jeep by the EJS 2013. I am not really set on a final date, But I figured a year would be good. I do not plan on updating the build daily nor do I plan on working on the Jeep everyday of the next year. So, I will add good updates every week or so when progress is good.

Here is the low down. The Jeep has a clean frame, no rust at all. The body is also rust free. The Jeep came to me as a frame and tub, with a 4.0 and AW4. The AW4 will be going in my other Jeep, and the 4.0 will probably get parted out. (I still do not know what I want as a power plant.) 5.3 and a 4L60 is what will probably end up in it.

Most of the parts used in this build will come from Junkyards, trash bins, dumpsters, wrecked TJs, and any other donated parts...

What I have collected so far.

I thought I would add a price list to the build as I go along..

Bought the Jeep for 200.00
Sold the door surrounds on ebay +145.00
Sold the sound bar on ebay +95.00

So far, + $40.00

(4) Old style MTRs 37" really just 35" tall 150.00

Total money out of pocket today 1-2-12 110.00

Bed components, Sides, Factory corners, Belt rails, 450.00

Tacoma Bed inner assembly Free
Front suspension links (JJs and Mid arm links)
Rear XJ leaf springs
Stock Hood Free
Stock grille shell Free
OEM radiator Free

JK D44 rear with 4:10 gears and track loc 300.00
Stock front fenders and rear flares Free

Body work:

Custom cut tub to make 2 seater cab
Custom Highline stock fenders
Hendrix Hood mod with vents
Custom wrap around bed assembly with drop down tail gate (53" bed)

Frame work:

Relocate the steering box bracket for front stretch
Custom frame built front bumper with grille hoop and winch protector
High clearance front lower link mounts
Custom Coilover hoops up front
Custom shock hoops in the rear
Custom rear leaf hangers
Custom back half rear frame for leafs and extended WB for bed / Reason "Simplicity, Red_Smoke says it works" :laugh:
Ruffstuff anti-wrap kit

Total out of pocket: 2-20-12 $960.00

Pictures to come soon.....:rtft:

I will reserve a few posts so please no comments till I get about 10 posts saved to keep the build clean in the future. :wave:

It may look dumb with 10-11 posts reserved, but you guys will thank me 2 years from now when trying to look at the build. :duhrock:

Photoshopped version of this build. Thanks to XJAbuzer.


The real thing.




 
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#5,287 ·
Danno6102 said:
Neat idea about the skid, but what happens when one of those nuts comes off? Is that 1/8" separation at the frame really that big of a deal?
It was a big deal for me. It won't come off, 2 (1/2)inch long tacks on each nut with excellent penetration. And if they do then I will cut open the frame and remove the strip and weld on a new nut.
 
#5,292 ·
mattamd_xp said:
Just stick your arm out the window and use hand signals :p Do the brake lights work? The Jeep that column came out of had working signals, so I doubt it's the switch. Front and rear not working?
Everything worked great till Monday night as I was leaving sonic after getting a shake. I hit the turn signal and it flashed 2 times and quit. I wiggled the switch and it flickered now it does nothing at all. I even swapped out a spare and I got nothing.
 
#5,294 ·
Check fuse 13 (10A) in the fuse block behind the glovebox. That's the fuse that supplies power to the turn/hazard switch. If the switch or relay burned out, it probably blew the fuse too so that would have to be replaced as well.
 
#5,296 ·
mattamd_xp said:
Check fuse 13 (10A) in the fuse block behind the glovebox. That's the fuse that supplies power to the turn/hazard switch. If the switch or relay burned out, it probably blew the fuse too so that would have to be replaced as well.
Checked that first.

Pretty bummed at this point, so close to making it a reality and this stalls me out. Wasted a whole night tonight and I am no closer to finding out where the problem is.
 
#5,297 ·
If you have power to the switch and no power coming out, the switch is the problem. If you have power coming out of the switch to the relay and not out of the relay, it's the relay. If you have power coming out of the relay and no signals, it's either every wire shorted out or a bad grounds.
 
#5,298 ·
All we got done tonight was the driveshafts and the wiring issue fixed. I have to work till noon then I HAVE get her drivable enough to run through inspection. Then back home to wrap up the loose ends. If I go for a test drive and everything feels good. I will be good for the drive to NC tomorrow night. A few weeks would really help out.


New flasher and installed my extra multi switch and I have hazards and turn signals again.
 
#5,299 ·
All we got done tonight was the driveshafts and the wiring issue fixed. I have to work till noon then I HAVE get her drivable enough to run through inspection. Then back home to wrap up the loose ends. If I go for a test drive and everything feels good. I will be good for the drive to NC tomorrow night. A few weeks would really help out.

New flasher and installed my extra multi switch and I have hazards and turn signals again.
What part of NC you headed to?
 
#5,310 ·
REDLYNER said:
I'm going to be about an hour East of you guys..... Hmmmmm what's the agenda?
I should be rolling off exit 85 around 10.

G Beasley said:
See you tomorrow ... :thumbsup:
See you there. I am going to stop off at a car wash to give her a once over along the way.
 
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