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Unread 02-16-2010, 06:43 PM   #1
never monday
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That's just all wrong.

Well the new junk is coming along. Mostly thanks to dumpster diving, horse trading, freebies, and favors that can't be discussed.

I started with this


It was put together decently for a general purpose trail rig. Super 35 with a Detroit, True track up front. 4.88's & 35's, a beefier belly and tank skids. Not bad, just not my taste.

What is my taste is it's a 2.5, 5spd with a tub that's "experienced"

First trip out I spun the rear driveshaft out of it.


well getting off the trail with a truetrack in front and no rear drive sux.
Out came the LP30, and the build began.....

My philosophy is build as minimally as I think I need, but to the W.E. Rock rules for Modifed Stock class. WE Rock rules I'm shooting to have the rig weigh 2600 lbs when it's done.

A friend did a 30 to 44 swap in the front of his JK UNL. I happily removed the 30 from his garage

The JK isn't much of an upgrade from any other HP30. It uses the same crappy 2.5" x .250 wall tubes. It's just their a few inches longer on a JK set up.
So


2.5" ID sch 40 HREW pipe ($1 a pound scrap) and a plasma cutter


test fit




Left is the new sleeved tube, right is the stock tube in all it's whimpy nakedness.
Now the front tubes are 2.9" x .450 wall


short side plugged and seam welded


long side seam welded


Johnny Joint's set.

waiting on the lower brackets, track bar mounts. The mounts came in. We haven't had a chance to get them done an make progress.

I got a chance to fondle the new Reid JK knuckles. They have made some seriously nice pieces. Lots of reinforcement where it's needed. I just don't think the steering changes will be of benefit to justify using them. I'm going to make a tie rod and draglink using heim joints. The way Reid moved the mounts up for the stock tie rod will cause my contraption to bind.


THE SUPER 35 IS LEAVING THE RIG
thought you'd never hear me say that did ya?

well, one of those little advantages to the JK30 is 5.13 gears. I fully intend to take advantage of this

This is the start of the rear.


It's a 1979 F250, 3" x .500 wall leaf spring high pinion 44. (what's the name of my build?)
This is another one of those trade junk for junk prizes. It's been laying around for a year or so....so.....why not cut it up and make a rear.
After surgery it will be a centered rear, semi float HP44 with 30 spline Rubicon shafts at TJ width.

After having an Atlas and a STaK in the old rig. The 231 in this gutless wonder wasn't going to cut it for me.
Sold the 231 and the front LP30, bought a used 300 with a 4:1 kit and clocking ring. I found a used 21 spline input from a CalRocks guy for next to nothing. Yeah, I'll get pics when I get around to it.

Gotta give a thanks to Blaine and Gerald at Savvy


hopefully they'll get the belly skid done soon. I kinda need it to hang everything back up in there.


more to come later....got a few more dumpsters to hit this week

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Last edited by never monday; 02-16-2010 at 08:13 PM..
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Unread 02-16-2010, 07:22 PM   #2
Pacifier
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That's a sweet starting point.
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Unread 02-16-2010, 07:23 PM   #3
jackel18
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Looks good, can't wait to see more
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Unread 02-17-2010, 08:20 AM   #4
BarneyJEEP
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My kind of build....sa's? Or don't know yet?
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Unread 02-17-2010, 08:58 AM   #5
never monday
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Short arm front with 12" or so of travel. 4link single tri long arm rear. Also somewhere around 12" of travel.
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Unread 02-17-2010, 04:10 PM   #6
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Pat,

That front axle is nice. I'm going to do the same to mine. Keep it up!
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Unread 02-18-2010, 04:57 PM   #7
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Looks good! Can't wait to see how this rig turns out!
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Unread 02-18-2010, 05:33 PM   #8
Bennettj13
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Nice nice bro. But you mentioned not using the JK steering setup? Shoot me a PM when you get it figured out. When are you going to finish so you can come up here and wheel? Or so that I can come down there and wheel?
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Unread 02-18-2010, 05:35 PM   #9
never monday
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Bennettj13 View Post
Nice nice bro. But you mentioned not using the JK steering setup? Shoot me a PM when you get it figured out. When are you going to finish so you can come up here and wheel? Or so that I can come down there and wheel?
I'm using all the JK attachment points. Just using heims and and over the top tie rod. If I can get it past the diff.

I hope to wheel this summer.
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Unread 02-18-2010, 05:38 PM   #10
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Wow, never though you would part with the S35. This should be a good re-build.
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Unread 02-18-2010, 05:39 PM   #11
Bennettj13
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Quote:
Originally Posted by never monday View Post
I'm using all the JK attachment points. Just using heims and and over the top tie rod. If I can get it past the diff.

I hope to wheel this summer.
Without bending it, I doubt you'll get past the diff. You almost have to move it out like ORO did. Aside from that, I assume you are building your own draglink as well? If so, are you going over or under? Clearances get kinda tight in there if you are pushing 1-ton ends (unless you were planning on heims again).

Well ****, I forgot you've got the Reid knuckles. Did you measure to see how much farther (if any) they stick out at the tie rod mount than the stock JK knuckles?
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::SELLING HALF OF MY JEEP::

http://www.jeepforum.com/forum/f33/?uid=152304

Rear Currie 4" coils - 190 shipped. (They've been sitting in the back of my Jeep for mock up but won't work out for me.)

Hornblasters Shocker S4 horn set with some extras $210 shipped. (It is not OBA, just an accessory for OBA)

"LCOG" isn't cheap and it certainly isn't easy. If you think so, you are doing it wrong. If you aren't willing to put in the effort, don't label your build "LCOG". You are just a cheap ******bag.

IndyORV- Dick and fart jokes, titties, throttle, flops, beer, tater balls, and good times.
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Unread 02-18-2010, 05:41 PM   #12
never monday
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Bennettj13 View Post
Without bending it, I doubt you'll get past the diff. You almost have to move it out like ORO did. Aside from that, I assume you are building your own draglink as well? If so, are you going over or under? Clearances get kinda tight in there if you are pushing 1-ton ends (unless you were planning on heims again).

Well ****, I forgot you've got the Reid knuckles. Did you measure to see how much farther (if any) they stick out at the tie rod mount than the stock JK knuckles?
all heims. On top of everything, drag link and tie rod.

I don't have Reids. They are a friends for his JK. I just got to fondle them
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Unread 02-18-2010, 05:52 PM   #13
LuckRider
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Looking good there NM. I can't wait to see that axle truss. I wonder how long you are going to have to wait to slip that 300 under there
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Unread 02-18-2010, 05:54 PM   #14
Bennettj13
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Quote:
Originally Posted by never monday View Post
all heims. On top of everything, drag link and tie rod.

I don't have Reids. They are a friends for his JK. I just got to fondle them
Well good luck with that tie rod then. If you get a chance, try to get that measurement for me? Pretty please?
__________________
::SELLING HALF OF MY JEEP::

http://www.jeepforum.com/forum/f33/?uid=152304

Rear Currie 4" coils - 190 shipped. (They've been sitting in the back of my Jeep for mock up but won't work out for me.)

Hornblasters Shocker S4 horn set with some extras $210 shipped. (It is not OBA, just an accessory for OBA)

"LCOG" isn't cheap and it certainly isn't easy. If you think so, you are doing it wrong. If you aren't willing to put in the effort, don't label your build "LCOG". You are just a cheap ******bag.

IndyORV- Dick and fart jokes, titties, throttle, flops, beer, tater balls, and good times.
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Unread 02-20-2010, 01:20 PM   #15
never monday
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played around with the 300 some today
swapped inputs, pulled the clocking ring off. started to pull it down to change the shifter set up.





time for a new clocking ring


plenty of depth, maybe too much....
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Last edited by never monday; 02-20-2010 at 03:36 PM..
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