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FS: 2007-2013 Jeep Wrangler "HALO" Angel Eye KitTHE NEW! VANCO DUAL MODE 15/16″ Big Brake Kit w/BlaFS: Wranger BRIGHT License Plate LED! Just $3! Great value

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Unread 01-29-2013, 01:55 PM   #31
Remko
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1997 TJ Wrangler 
 
Join Date: Feb 2008
Location: Windsor, ON
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So some more progress, got the welding finished on the frame and started working on placement of the control arm brackets, upper mostly as I can't finish the lowers until I have the t-cases in place. Also got the new body mounts near the fuel tank skid plate and the rear ones on the side welded in.

fish plates are 27" long and I put them on both sides of the frame, so I think it might be a little overkill, but what's another spool of mig wire

Trying to figure out exactly where to put the upper links


Getting the axle lined up


made some raised body mounts, so I don't need to use the body pucks


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Unread 02-01-2013, 07:39 AM   #32
Remko
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While waiting for some link material and axle brackets to come in, and with some parts for the t-case arriving, I got back to some work on the dana 300 case.
Started with installing the shims to reduce the play in the input gears, and installed the input housing along with a new double lip Viton oil seal, seeing as this seal with ATF on one side from the 231 and gear oil on the other from the 300. I also put thread sealant on all the bolts as most go right through into the inside of the case.

I then assembled the rear output housing and yoke, but the oil seal got deformed, so I need to order a new one, made sure to get a double lip one of those too. Ended up not needing any shims to get the proper end play for the output shaft, but I seem to have misplaced the yoke washer, so we'll see if I need to readjust later again, hopefully not.

Now I just need my new front shift rail, and I can button up the case. I just dropped the old one and the material off at the machine shop, so hopefully it won't take too long to do.
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Unread 02-01-2013, 10:47 AM   #33
dayriesw
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Looks great. Can't wait to see the finished product. Where are you getting the double seals from? Those aren't stock to the 300, are they? I am still interested in the doubler but am still trying to figure out if it is correct for my application.
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Looking for a set of dana 30 shafts for a TJ or XJ, stock and good condition. PM me if you have a set and willing to ship or are in LA.
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Unread 02-01-2013, 11:45 AM   #34
Remko
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I got the seals from my local bearing house, they are an SKF seal that has the same dimensions but a different lip and seal material. Designed for dirty type environments, not that Jeeps see anything like that .

I had looked a doubler before the stretch, but the length makes the rear shaft really short, so I didn't go through with it then.
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Unread 02-07-2013, 05:03 AM   #35
Remko
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Got back to the rear axle. Removed the LCA brackets after determining that they needed to be about 20 degrees, using the accurate tape and framing square. This resulted in an order being placed to TMR for some 22 degree axle brackets. Had to do some minor trimming to fit them around my nth degree shock brackets and then I welded them in. Of course I had to remove the brakes and axle shafts to get proper access to the outside of the brackets, but oh well.


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Unread 02-11-2013, 12:20 PM   #36
Remko
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A little more progress. Got the upper links welded as well as the tabs to the truss. I know the pic is of before welding, but I forgot to take one from the after.

Then put the gas tank back in to check the clearance to the diff, it's tight, but until I get the lower links on and the pinion angle set, I won't know for sure.

Then I decided to put the t-cases in to determine my rear crossmember location, which is where the rear t-case support will mount and the lower link bracket.


Starting getting the plates and frame tubes installed for the lower link crossmember. The belt on my drill press went on me, so I couldn't finish the 2" hole in the plates. I also need a bigger/slower drill for doing these 3/4" holes as my little 1/2" drill was smoking trying to do this, it doesn't help that this area has 3/8" thick walls as that's where my fish plates and inner reinforcements run. I also ran out of 3/4" .120 wall DOM for the inserts, so will have to wait until Monday to pick that up.

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Unread 02-15-2013, 03:15 PM   #37
Remko
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More progress in the last few days. Finished welding in the frame inserts, got the crossmember welded up and modified the brackets to fit the 2" tube (were designed for 1.75"). Got the transfer cases and driveshaft in place to check for clearance and tacked in the lower link bracket and dana 300 support. Also measured for my lower arms last night, and got the material today.

As you can see the driveshaft needs to be lengthened just a touch


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Unread 02-15-2013, 09:21 PM   #38
Remko
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Lots of welding tonight. The lower link bracket and dana 300 support bracket were welded in to the crossmember. Then the lower links were chamfered and the bungs welded in to them. I then cycled the suspension to see if there are any issues, a little tweaking but otherwise it looks pretty good.

Making sure I dad enough clearance to the tank.

At full jounce


Then at full rebound

Also with articulation

Close, but it clears

Tomorrow I'll check how the sta-bar fits and then pull the axle and weld the truss
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Unread 02-20-2013, 11:38 AM   #39
Remko
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Well the rear sta-bar doesn't fit, at all, so after welding up the truss I cut off the sta-bar brackets on the axle and the frame and cleaned everything up. Finish welded the upper arm frame brackets as well. So basically the only stock bracket still on the axle are the coil buckets. I ordered a Currie antirock rear bar kit, so now I have to wait to paint the frame and axle until that comes in. I took some measurements for the driveshafts, rear has to get 9.25" longer, the front about 3-4" but I need to pull the front springs and cycle the suspension to be sure exactly how much, which is fine because then I can install my new front coils. I then started looking at the body and cut off some extra material from the new rear half, will do the final trimming once I get them closer. Also managed to clean up the garage a bit, so it's a little better to work in. So this week I need to run a wire wheel over the axle and frame to get them ready for paint, and hopefully get the shift shafts for the 300 back from the machine shop so that can be final assembled.
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Unread 03-01-2013, 08:58 AM   #40
Remko
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More work, getting to it slowly. Extended the fuel tank wiring and routed everything for the t-cases. Got the holes drilled for the new body mount, 5" forward of the original and 1.25" higher (for the body lift).

Picked up a new toy, so put it to use removing the rear track bar bracket, some material at the front shock bracket that hit the arm at full droop and some of the LF control bracket that got bent during some event or other.




Also repaired some damage to the axle bracket from the control arm coming loose and wearing a groove into the bracket. I just filled it with weld and used the die grinder to smooth it back out.

Also got my new 3" AEV springs installed in the front and brought the driveshafts in for lengthening.
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Unread 03-06-2013, 06:59 PM   #41
Remko
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So I'm officially pissed off at Savvy, I finally get a chance to open the box with what's supposed to be my rear antirock and what falls out is some heavy duty track bar and a pitman arm, grrr... Don't know what they are for, and don't really care, I've already paid the taxes for the antirock to come across the border and I can't get a hold of Savvy, even before 5 California time.


I did get a couple of things done though, cut a hole in my floor for the triple shifters, cut out a chunk of the center console to clear the shifters, welded on a new bracket to the shifter bracket so the cable for the 231 case can come in from the front so it doesn't do some weird S bend.


Started working on bracket for the 231 t-case cable mount too. I had a few other no Jeep projects to deal with too, like mounting my new drill press to my workbench, and making a bracket for my plasma to sit on my welded without it falling off as well as a hook for the cords.



Seeing as I was pissed and didn't want to deal with anything else I sprayed the entire inside of the frame with some Eastwood internal frame coating, used 4 full cans to do it, luckily I bought 5, so I have a spare. Now I need to stay out of the garage until tomorrow when the paint fumes die down.
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Unread 03-10-2013, 06:53 PM   #42
Remko
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So I had cut a nasty hole in my floor for the shifters, not wanting to leave it that way I decided to bend up some sheet metal, I'm not really good at sheet metal, but I figured it'll be mostly hidden so I'll give it a go and get some practice before doing the body. Got a piece to fit most of the hole, just welding to the body, not the shifter plate, I want to leave that removable. Man I hate doing thin metal, but I played a little with the welder and go better as I went along.


One final piece for the last hole, sorry the pics a little overexposed.

I didn't bother trying to make it all fit flush, I didn't have that much patience, and my back was getting sore bending over the door opening.
While I had the seat out I also put the original seat risers back on, I had switched to a fold and tumble base, but with these shifters that's not going to possible anymore, oh well the kids will have to use the passenger side or go through the windows.
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Unread 03-10-2013, 07:57 PM   #43
G Beasley
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Sheetmetal can be a pain , with practice it gets easier . I use a copper block to pull heat away from the area , and I sometimes add in a wet rag as needed .
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Unread 03-10-2013, 08:47 PM   #44
dayriesw
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I like it. I guess your not going to have a consol anymore.
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Impact Orange LJ - DD...sitting low, flat bottomed, fully armored and locked on 35s


Looking for a set of dana 30 shafts for a TJ or XJ, stock and good condition. PM me if you have a set and willing to ship or are in LA.
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Unread 03-11-2013, 05:41 AM   #45
Remko
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Location: Windsor, ON
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The metal wasn't too bad, just had to do small bits at a time, stock is 20 gauge the metal I'm using is 18, not sure I want to play with anything thinner though, at least not without the copper or wet rag tricks, but it was hard enought lying over the door sill and trying to weld at the same time.

Nope, consoles still going to be there, had to cut part of it out, but should fit nicely still, forgot to take a pic of it, but I'll get to that.
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