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Unread 10-28-2012, 05:59 PM   #16
G Beasley
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This will be a cool thread to follow , look forward to the updates .

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Unread 10-29-2012, 09:23 PM   #17
Remko
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Well I found some 4"x2.5" steel, it was only 1/8" wall, but with the innerplates and fishplates I'm going to put in, it should be plenty strong enough. Cleaned up the left frame rail, cut out the cancer where the upper control arm bracket used to be, fit a couple of the inner sleeves and chamfered the tubing. Also cut and welded in a plate where the bad section was. That should be all for a while as I have a couple of other things that need doing the next 2 weeks.

The sleeves are two pieces of 1/8" plate each bent at a 90 deg angle, they will run all the way through the new tubing and 6" into each of the existing frame rails. I had to grind off some additional material to account for the extra thickness of the frame (.175") vs the tubing (.125").

The plate (1/4" cold roll), ready to be welded.
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Unread 10-30-2012, 09:50 PM   #18
Remko
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Well didn't think I'd have time tonight, but I got a package from Staang's Fab today and I had to see what was in it.

Started by fitting the plate to the 231 front half case that's been laying in my garage and marking where it had to be cut.

Cut the front output off of the 231.

Looked at my 300 and fit the adapter ring to it after cleaning up the surface and running a tap through the mounting holes. Sorry the only pic I had of the 300 was of the twin sticks, with I removed and won't be using.

Then did some grinding to fit the block off plate onto the 231. Ended up with about 0.060" of adapter sitting up, so I'll see about getting that machined down rather than grinding the entire plate.

Overall a nice setup, will have to see how everything clocks up later, but a good start anyway.
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Unread 10-31-2012, 05:14 PM   #19
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I must have missed something. Are you making a doubler out of a 231/300?
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Unread 10-31-2012, 10:57 PM   #20
G Beasley
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dayriesw View Post
I must have missed something. Are you making a doubler out of a 231/300?
It does appear that way
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Unread 11-01-2012, 05:31 AM   #21
Remko
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Sorry, yeah I'm making a 231/300 doubler. I figured if I'm getting a new driveshaft I might as well go all the way. Not sure how logical that is, but that's my justification. I'll end up with 4.01 (trans) 2.72 (231) 2.62 (300) and 4.56 (axles) for a combined crawl of about 130:1. I thought of doing 4:1 in the 300, but when can you really use that much crawl (198:1)
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Unread 11-07-2012, 11:06 AM   #22
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That would be sick-slow. Do you have any more info on the 231/300 or progress pictures?
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Unread 11-12-2012, 06:08 AM   #23
Remko
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Just got back from a week in Orlando, so should be getting back to it today (have the day off). I did get the plate welded in, sandblasted the outside of the case and ordered a clocking ring and triple cable shifters from NWF, which whould be here this week. Need to remove the front pipe and cat to clear the clocked 231, hoping with the clocking ring I won't have to modify the body, but we'll see. I need to get the 231/300 in place before I can do the cross member for the LCA's that way I'll know where everything sits.
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Unread 11-13-2012, 05:51 PM   #24
Remko
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Finally got back to it, a little at least.
Painted the 231 after getting it sandblasted and cleaned.

Installed all the guts and checked it works, still need to get a new seal for the shifter though.

Then started looking at the 300 again. Pulled off the yokes, and cut off the extra area around the shifters. Didn't like what I saw, the seals are all pretty cruddy, so time for a rebuild.



Pulled the front yoke off of a 231 I had and it will work fine on the 300, then ordered a replacement for the other one, seeing as I need both to go to double cardans instead of the single u-joint that the 300 is setup for. Hopefully my clocking ring, cable shifters and rebuild kit come in soon and I can get back to that, but I still have lots of other things to do in the meantime.
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Unread 11-15-2012, 01:34 PM   #25
Remko
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Not a lot, but built a quick little rolling axle stand/cart.

Started to remove the upper control arm brackets from the axle
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Unread 11-19-2012, 06:52 AM   #26
Remko
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Got the track bar bracket and left UCA bracket cut off, still need to clean up the tube, but it's coming along. Tore down the 300, I'm glad I did because the bearings and seals were all in bad shape, but the gears all look good. Did tweak the shift rods some gettin them out, so I'll need to order replacements.


Worked a bunch on the rear frame section, got the cancer cut out of the right side and welded in a filler plate, also plated the bottoms of the frame with some 1/4x2" flat bar. I added a 1" drain hole in the area that was rusted the worst to try and let the crap back out.


Installed my new clocking ring from NWF on the 231, still ended up having to slot one hole in the trans, but better than all of them. Not sure I really like the position though, I think I'm going to have some body interference even with the 1-1/4" body lift. I'll have to wait and see when the lift comes in. If it's not too much I'll use a BFH, but I'd rather not cut the body, oh well we'll cross that bridge when it comes.
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Unread 01-17-2013, 06:35 AM   #27
Remko
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It's been a while since I posted, been busy with the holidays and progress has been a little slow, but I have gotten a few things done.
As I said in my last post the body did have some interference with the flipped 231, but luckily nothing a BFH couldn't fix, and a bonus was that the area above there is hidden by a body support.

The body lift is in, sort of, will be replacing all the body mounts with ones I picked up from Swag offroad, but that'll have to wait until the frame is back in one piece.


Speaking of the frame, I got the extensions welded onto the rear section, but the front will have to wait until I clean out the frame. I'm going to get rid of the threaded inserts for the trans crossmember and replace them tubes that go to the top of the frame, thanks Thing1 for the idea.


Also been working on the Dana 300, got it cleaned and painted and started the reassembly with my new set of 4:1 low gears from JB conversions, hey there was pitting on a couple of the stock gears, so what was I to do?




While I'm waiting for a few parts for the t-case I got back to work on the frame. Finished the prep work for the front half, including finishing drilling and welding in my tubes for the crossmember, cleaning out the frame some and beveling the weld edges, before throwing some weld through primer into the ends of the frame.


Finally getting ready for the two halves becoming one again
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Unread 01-17-2013, 06:36 AM   #28
Remko
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Decided tonight was a good time to marry the two halves of the frame back together again.




Still have to finish the welding, but it's not going anywhere.
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Unread 01-21-2013, 08:35 PM   #29
dayriesw
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Remko View Post
It's been a while since I posted, been busy with the holidays and progress has been a little slow, but I have gotten a few things done.
As I said in my last post the body did have some interference with the flipped 231, but luckily nothing a BFH couldn't fix, and a bonus was that the area above there is hidden by a body support.
Can you snap a picture of the clearances tub from the passenger compartment side? The 4:1 in the 300 in going to make it a super lo. But I guess if you had to replace the internals already, might as well make this the ultimate case.
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Unread 01-22-2013, 06:31 AM   #30
Remko
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There's nothing to show from the passenger compartment side, as there is a support over top of that area, also it's under the seat and carpet. I'll try and show you what I mean when I get back in with the camera.

Yeah, that was my 'excuse' for doing the 4:1's as well. Should also allow me to pick the best gear for the type of obstacle by either using the 2.72:1 or the 4:1 as needed. Doubt I'll use the 2.72 and 4 together very often.
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