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Alloy usa heavy duty ball joint kitsWe have FLASHLIGHTS! Great for your Emergency bag!TJ Wrangler 4" Rough Country Suspension Lift Kits in

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Unread 03-09-2013, 05:36 PM   #16
straightsixjeep
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Subscribed, you do great work. Keep it up.

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Unread 03-13-2013, 08:16 PM   #17
bty34
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Originally Posted by straightsixjeep View Post
Subscribed, you do great work. Keep it up.
Thanks for the words of encouragement. Progress has been slow, but we'll get there eventually. There is a lot of little stuff that I am trying to take care of that is adding up.

Had a stiff spot in one of my axle shafts, pulled the joint apart and found one cap was dry. The rest were in good shape. The odd part was there was still grease up in the cross in that one location.






Also painted the axle. It was previously coated with chassis saver, but it hasn't held up that well. I have used it a couple of times before and have not been impressed. It seems to flake off easily.




I have a rebuild kit coming for the passenger side JJ. I should have pulled the joint apart before welding the mount 3 years ago. It is starting to get a little loose.
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Unread 03-19-2013, 07:31 PM   #18
bty34
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One recommendation for anyone thinking about doing something similar, buy a bunch of manila shipping labels for when you are taking things apart. I haven't been working on it all that long, and there is already I wish I labeled better.




I did make a little progress. Antirock is swapped over.




Currie front bumps stops mounted. I used a M10x40 SHCS on the top rather than the 3/8" bolt. On the bottom I removed the 1" spacer since I am adding the body lift and staying with 33" tires.




Bushings came in for the JJ I needed to rebuild.



It was definitely melted





All back together



The front axle is ready to go under the new frame now.
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Unread 03-26-2013, 08:01 PM   #19
bty34
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Front axle is under the new frame. Everything is left loose for now. I know my other frame was a little off, so I am going to need to adjust things.



Diff cover showed up for the rear and is on. I had dented the stock cover, so hopefully this will help.




A few years ago I had added a higher fill plug to the stock cover. Here are some pictures if anyone is curious. The pipe fittings were from McMaster-Carr. I don't remember the part number, but they fit in the stock hole.










Now back to the current project. Front fenders were removed.



I removed the cowl to unbolt the hood. I think the paint will fair better that way.



The first body mount came out without any issues.



My plan is to lower the drivetrain and frame together, swap the drivetrain over, clean up the underside of the tub, and then put it all back together.

Last edited by bty34; 03-26-2013 at 08:03 PM.. Reason: Forgot a picture
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Unread 03-30-2013, 08:48 PM   #20
bty34
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Lowered the frame on to a couple furniture dollies under the oil pan and center skid. Supported the body by the rocker guards and a with a chunk of wood across the rear floor.








Cut off and discarded the rear section of frame.




Pulled the drivetrain out of the front half of the frame.






Stock motor mounts






StinkyFab Racing






In the new frame.



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Unread 04-16-2013, 05:16 AM   #21
bty34
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Notched the sides of the Under Armor mounts. I did have to go back and widen the slot about half way down. It wasn't sitting flat to the frame due the welds on the sides of the body mount.




Cleaned up.






Also painted the rear brace. I'm missing a couple fasteners, so the actual skid will stay off for now.




I did have to open up the notch near the tcase shift lever slightly towards the center of the Jeep.




Found the SFR motor mounts were contacting the lift blocks on both sides.



Marked up the driver side




All trimmed




A little grinding on the passenger.




Driver side now. I trimmed it back to the width of the isolator after the mounting for the front hanger.




On the passenger side, I also did a little grinding on the SFR mount. Only the front was touching, the rear has plenty of clearance. I forgot to take a picture of it, but the rear corner of the lift block was also quite close to the bolt head on the motor mount, so it was notched slightly.




It's pretty normal stuff when using multiple aftermarket parts, I'm just glad I noticed before getting it all back together.
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Unread 04-24-2013, 08:04 PM   #22
bty34
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The center body mounts on both sides are pretty well rotted. Started working on the passenger side first.




Cut out the bad section








Tools to fabricate a patch panel. Old body mount and carrier bearing race from a Dana 35.








Not too bad for a piece of scrap sheet metal off an IH combine. I just need to drill a hole and weld it in.

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Unread 04-25-2013, 09:10 AM   #23
Barrows
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Keep up the good work, I am enjoying your creative ways to fix things. Any reason you are staying with 33's? Does it have to do with the 35 in the rear or other reasons? Also, I am curios what gear ratio you are running?
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Unread 04-25-2013, 09:42 AM   #24
dayriesw
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Looks great and I like the creativeness a lot too.
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'85 CJ-7 Renegade - sold
'79 FSJ Cherokee Chief - sold
'05 LJ "IMPACT" - bought in LA, current DD on 37s
'87 MJ Comanche Chief - found in a field, now yard art
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Unread 04-25-2013, 07:21 PM   #25
bty34
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Originally Posted by Barrows View Post
Keep up the good work, I am enjoying your creative ways to fix things. Any reason you are staying with 33's? Does it have to do with the 35 in the rear or other reasons? Also, I am curios what gear ratio you are running?
Thanks. I thought about selling my 33s and moving to 35s, but used tires don't seem to bring much around here. I've been pretty happy with them and it isn't that often that I think the tires are limiting me. I have more times that I am not able to hold my line due to not having a front locker. We'll see how much that helps to determine how far off new tires are. The extra clearance sure would be nice.

When I got them I was still driving the Jeep 90 miles a day, so that was a big part. I'm not too concerned about the 35 with the Superior kit. I installed 4.10 gears when I got the tires 3 years ago, it is a lot better than the 3.07, but the more time I spend in the rocks, the more I want to go to 4.88. At this point I think I will hold off changing gears until I change tires.
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Unread 04-25-2013, 10:03 PM   #26
Hendrix
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Great looking build. I like the body mount repair.
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Unread 04-25-2013, 10:19 PM   #27
Barrows
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Thanks for the reply, I am debating 33's or 35's and 4.56's or 4.88's.
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Unread 05-01-2013, 07:32 PM   #28
Barrows
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ANy updates?
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Unread 05-01-2013, 08:43 PM   #29
bty34
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ANy updates?
Not too much. Farming has started to pick up and I haven't had too much time for the Jeep. Corn should be in by this weekend, so I should be able to get back at it.

I did get the driver side panel fitted. It was a little more of a pain since I wasn't able to remove the old section in one piece. Require a lot of test fitting.




Back to passenger side. Test fit for the last time.



Welded in.



Not a big fan of welding sheet metal overhead, but it didn't seem to turn out too bad. A flame retardant hood makes a big difference. If I had known the work to be done on the bottom of the tub going in to it, I may have thought harder about flipping it. I didn't think it was going to be worth the effort, but the more time I spend with a grinder over my head it sure seems like it would have been nice.
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Unread 05-01-2013, 10:10 PM   #30
1999GOLDTJ
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Doing an awesome job! Ive been thinking about a frame off too. My rust is worse than yours for sure. I feel you on the time restraints too. Im a full time farm hand. we crop 500 or so acres and run about a 1000 head of beef cattle, along with an export program into Canada.

Can you find a way to send me some kind of notes/directions on gearing axles. I need to do my 8.25 and my HP30.
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