Tarantula_TJ Rubicon Build - Page 53 - JeepForum.com

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post #781 of 3547 Old 04-17-2012, 09:34 PM
squazz
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Lu, I need a application for employment

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post #782 of 3547 Old 04-18-2012, 07:37 AM Thread Starter
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Lu, I need a application for employment
no problem squazz

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post #783 of 3547 Old 04-18-2012, 08:37 AM
Imped
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The Poly rear 4 link kit is cheaper and includes literally the same stuff......FYI, Poly was the first to come out with that frame bracket design.

http://www.polyperformance.com/shop/...l-p-16802.html

Since you're planning on using a truss for the upper link mounts, you'll want to contact them and ask them to remove the standalone rear upper axle brackets. That'd be a good time to ask for a deal, too.....I make all of my purchases through Tommy FYI. As for the brackets you're talking about using at the truss, I'd scratch those. They'll sit too tall. You want to keep the uppers tucked down as close to the diff as possible. Just use separate tabs.

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post #784 of 3547 Old 04-18-2012, 08:50 AM Thread Starter
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something like these for the uppers?

http://www.artecindustries.com/Truss...nts_p_182.html

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post #785 of 3547 Old 04-18-2012, 09:01 AM
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Yes, those'd work great.

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post #786 of 3547 Old 04-18-2012, 09:24 AM
bobthetj03
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Holy transformation Batman!

Bob's boring build:

http://www.jeepforum.com/forum/f22/b...build-1304260/

White Jeep club member #2003

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post #787 of 3547 Old 04-18-2012, 09:49 AM
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Why not save $150 & do the Ford shock towers? Mine are mounted higher than what their brackets look to be capable of. I'm running 12" shocks in the back & with switching my coils this past weekend to the 2 1/2" RC, my mount actually needs to move up another 1" to 1 1/2" to maintain the 6" up & 6" down that I want.

Mine are definitely higher & need to go even higher. Compare their locations to the bubble in the tub.

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post #788 of 3547 Old 04-18-2012, 10:01 AM Thread Starter
AngryTJ
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Why not save $150 & do the Ford shock towers? Mine are mounted higher than what their brackets look to be capable of. I'm running 12" shocks in the back & with switching my coils this past weekend to the 2 1/2" RC, my mount actually needs to move up another 1" to 1 1/2" to maintain the 6" up & 6" down that I want.

Mine are definitely higher & need to go even higher. Compare their locations to the bubble in the tub.
Whered you get your ford towers? Did you have to modify them at all to run the 5125s with them?


Also Imped what are your thoughts on the Artec kit with rod ends instead of JJs? Seems a bit cheaper.

http://artecindustries.3dcartstores....rs-_p_276.html

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post #789 of 3547 Old 04-18-2012, 10:02 AM Thread Starter
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Holy transformation Batman!
Yeaa buddy

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post #790 of 3547 Old 04-18-2012, 10:13 AM
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Whered you get your ford towers? Did you have to modify them at all to run the 5125s with them?


Also Imped what are your thoughts on the Artec kit with rod ends instead of JJs? Seems a bit cheaper.

http://artecindustries.3dcartstores....rs-_p_276.html
Ford dealer. $30 a pair. Just call your local & tell them you need P/N E5TZ-18183-A. I actually need to call them in a day or two to order me another set for the front. I chopped about 4" off the end of mine so there is plenty to go higher. Only modification I needed to do was drill the hole out for the bolt. Make sure you do this before you weld the towers in. I didn't realize the holes were slightly smaller until I went to mount the shock. It's a ***** trying to get a drill in there & ended up using a dremel.

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post #791 of 3547 Old 04-18-2012, 10:56 AM Thread Starter
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Ford dealer. $30 a pair. Just call your local & tell them you need P/N E5TZ-18183-A. I actually need to call them in a day or two to order me another set for the front. I chopped about 4" off the end of mine so there is plenty to go higher. Only modification I needed to do was drill the hole out for the bolt. Make sure you do this before you weld the towers in. I didn't realize the holes were slightly smaller until I went to mount the shock. It's a ***** trying to get a drill in there & ended up using a dremel.
Awesome Ill def be doing that then. Thanks Danno

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post #792 of 3547 Old 04-18-2012, 12:55 PM
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Originally Posted by AngryTJ View Post

Also Imped what are your thoughts on the Artec kit with rod ends instead of JJs? Seems a bit cheaper.

http://artecindustries.3dcartstores....rs-_p_276.html
I'm not Connor but I can just about guarantee he's going to say JJs I completely agree for a street driven jeep. Rod ends are excellent for strength and range of motion but can be considered a much more solid connection than a JJ meaning you are going to feel more road vibrations and energy transfer between the axle and frame than you might feel with a JJ which has some dampening effect due to the urethane bushing that encapsulates the center ball. Also, I'm pretty sure the JJs will last much longer before needing a rebuild than a rod end will before needing replacement. FWIW, I'm running RuffStuff chromo rod ends on mine but would only consider JJs if my jeep was a DD or frequent driver on the street.

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post #793 of 3547 Old 04-18-2012, 01:12 PM
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Jjs are the best thing you can run on any rig. I will never run anything else. Well worth the money spent. Yeah, I have 500 worth of JJs on my Jeep. But, its one thing I will never have to worry about.
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post #794 of 3547 Old 04-18-2012, 02:39 PM Thread Starter
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Ill have to give polyperformance a call because it seems cheaper to buy everything seperately rather then as a kit which seems a** backwards. JJs will be used then instead of rod ends and also probably use Artec's lower CA brackets. I like how they have a mini skid built in to them protecting the joint.

http://artecindustries.3dcartstores....air_p_252.html

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post #795 of 3547 Old 04-19-2012, 09:52 AM Thread Starter
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Had a late night tinkering with the rig yesterday with a buddy. First order of business was to adjust the novak cable shifter since after I completely my tummy tuck I wasnt getting into 4lo anymore. After a sh** ton of tinkering with it, its finally shifting smoothly throughout every gear.

Second thing we tackled was the engine skid. Got all the holes drilled where it meets the tcase skid (which was not fun having to get through 1/4" steel while on your back trying to apply upward pressure) and bolted everything in place. After that I drilled a hole in the back of the tcase skid to run a bolt and attach my locker pumps to the skid keeping them tucked.





Glad I could scratch those items off the to do list and finally got around to unbolting my spare tire this morning to put the dynabeads in and get it mounted on my tire carrier. Planning a trip to Rausch this weekend and really hoping the rain doesnt ruin the trip.

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