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Unread 04-07-2013, 09:55 PM   #91
Ripper3494
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1994 YJ Wrangler 
 
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Are your shocks mounted single shear on the axle end?

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1994 yj stretched, locked and loaded - 6.0l vortec lq4, 4l60e, np231, Dana 44s 37" interco trxus m/t, 3.5" bds front leafs, double triangulated 4 link rear on xj front coils.
1997 ZJ limited - BONE stock
2003 tj - 4in skyjacker, 33" mickey thompsons
my on board alternator/welder write up
[url]http://www.jeepforum.com/forum/f12/alternator-welder-write-up-1301614/[/url]
my tj 1/2 doors on a yj write up
[url]http://www.jeepforum.com/forum/f12/tj-uppers-yj-half-doors-hard-top-installation-1417686/[/url]
RC vs BDS
[url]http://www.jeepforum.com/forum/f12/rough-country-vs-bds-1461555/[/url]
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Unread 04-07-2013, 10:38 PM   #92
clintrivera
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Quote:
Originally Posted by kyle_craig View Post
Looks like things are coming together nicely. Well done so far!
Thanks!
Quote:
Originally Posted by Ripper3494 View Post
Are your shocks mounted single shear on the axle end?
Yes. It's mounted on the same axis as the upper bushing so there should be less deflection.
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Unread 04-07-2013, 11:49 PM   #93
Ripper3494
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Quote:
Originally Posted by clintrivera View Post
Thanks!


Yes. It's mounted on the same axis as the upper bushing so there should be less deflection.

I'd be worried about busting that bolt on that lower mount without some sort of support on it. I know because I ran my shocks like that and busted and bent a few bolts. Take a look at these if your interested
http://www.ruffstuffspecialties.com/.../SBSIDEMT.html

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build thread:
[url]http://www.jeepforum.com/forum/f22/94-yj-6-0-build-spud-1218315/[/url]
1994 yj stretched, locked and loaded - 6.0l vortec lq4, 4l60e, np231, Dana 44s 37" interco trxus m/t, 3.5" bds front leafs, double triangulated 4 link rear on xj front coils.
1997 ZJ limited - BONE stock
2003 tj - 4in skyjacker, 33" mickey thompsons
my on board alternator/welder write up
[url]http://www.jeepforum.com/forum/f12/alternator-welder-write-up-1301614/[/url]
my tj 1/2 doors on a yj write up
[url]http://www.jeepforum.com/forum/f12/tj-uppers-yj-half-doors-hard-top-installation-1417686/[/url]
RC vs BDS
[url]http://www.jeepforum.com/forum/f12/rough-country-vs-bds-1461555/[/url]
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Unread 04-08-2013, 08:43 AM   #94
clintrivera
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Ripper3494 View Post
I'd be worried about busting that bolt on that lower mount without some sort of support on it. I know because I ran my shocks like that and busted and bent a few bolts. Take a look at these if your interested
http://www.ruffstuffspecialties.com/.../SBSIDEMT.html

Sent from AutoGuide.com App
Why? It's a shock mount, not a suspension link. The bump stops are properly spaced to bottom before the shock. The mounts are around axle center line so relatively safe from trail damage. The most stress the shock mount will see will be from full axle droop when the opposite axle is stuffed. With the rear anti-rock that won't even bee that much stress since it will be counteracting that force. I'm also not interested in jumping the Jeep. If I was I would buy some limit straps since I'm sure the shocks wouldn't be interested in dealing with that kind of force either.
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Unread 04-08-2013, 09:11 AM   #95
Ripper3494
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Its not so much bottoming out or fully extending the shock, it's more of just over time all the pressure that a shock will supply to that bolt while dampening bumps could break it. It's your jeep I don't mean to tell you how to build it, I'm just letting you know I've broken mounts like that before. If you think it will work for your application then I'm sure it will. It just didn't for mine

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build thread:
[url]http://www.jeepforum.com/forum/f22/94-yj-6-0-build-spud-1218315/[/url]
1994 yj stretched, locked and loaded - 6.0l vortec lq4, 4l60e, np231, Dana 44s 37" interco trxus m/t, 3.5" bds front leafs, double triangulated 4 link rear on xj front coils.
1997 ZJ limited - BONE stock
2003 tj - 4in skyjacker, 33" mickey thompsons
my on board alternator/welder write up
[url]http://www.jeepforum.com/forum/f12/alternator-welder-write-up-1301614/[/url]
my tj 1/2 doors on a yj write up
[url]http://www.jeepforum.com/forum/f12/tj-uppers-yj-half-doors-hard-top-installation-1417686/[/url]
RC vs BDS
[url]http://www.jeepforum.com/forum/f12/rough-country-vs-bds-1461555/[/url]
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Unread 04-08-2013, 09:29 AM   #96
clintrivera
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Ripper3494 View Post
Its not so much bottoming out or fully extending the shock, it's more of just over time all the pressure that a shock will supply to that bolt while dampening bumps could break it. It's your jeep I don't mean to tell you how to build it, I'm just letting you know I've broken mounts like that before. If you think it will work for your application then I'm sure it will. It just didn't for mine

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It's actually not a bolt. It's a shock mount that came with the shock. I have owned around 5-6 Cherokees that have the same single sheer setup stock with a weaker mount with no issues. Blaine has also used single sheer rear shock mounts when he outboards. I have also seen people mount steering linkage in single sheer using heims (and I suppose you can consider tie rod ends single sheer as well) with far more force and no issues. If it were to break, I would just remove the shock and build it bigger when I got home.
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Unread 04-08-2013, 12:56 PM   #97
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Quote:
Originally Posted by clintrivera View Post

It's actually not a bolt. It's a shock mount that came with the shock. I have owned around 5-6 Cherokees that have the same single sheer setup stock with a weaker mount with no issues. Blaine has also used single sheer rear shock mounts when he outboards. I have also seen people mount steering linkage in single sheer using heims (and I suppose you can consider tie rod ends single sheer as well) with far more force and no issues. If it were to break, I would just remove the shock and build it bigger when I got home.
Unless the shock sees severe stress - which it should not - I can't see how that mount would be troublesome at all... and in that eventuality, the shock is already dead by the time the mount goes.
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Unread 04-15-2013, 12:51 PM   #98
2000GrayTJ
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Originally Posted by clintrivera View Post
Put in a long day of grinding dust and sparks. I'm now the proud father of my very first triangulated four link. Everything went pretty well considering this was my first time and I was making everything from scratch.



Both my upper and lower links happened to come out at 28". I've read that the upper links should ideally be 80% of the distance of the lower links, and through no planning on my own I actually hit right around 80%. I've cycled the suspension and nothing funny happened, and I only have around 2 degrees of pinon change from full droop to full stuff.



Upper link brackets made from more 3/16" wall 3"X6". I'm going to brace the top of the tower with more 3/16" plate.

Very nice work, makes me seriously reconsider buying all the brackets when the time comes to 4-link. The first thing I noticed was how you placed your upper frame-side brackets ~80% the distance of the lowers, do you by any chance know why this is recommended? (The first thing that comes to mind for me is pinion tracking) It seems almost all "universal" 4-link brackets seem to have the uppers mount almost directly above the lowers, I was just wondering if there was a big advantage to placing them how you did. Also, did you triangulate the lowers ~10 outwards or just perpendicular to the axle? I suppose if you just set the brackets directly inline with the frame you would likely be close to 10?

Definitely staying tuned in for this one
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Unread 04-15-2013, 01:16 PM   #99
clintrivera
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Originally Posted by 2000GrayTJ View Post
Very nice work, makes me seriously reconsider buying all the brackets when the time comes to 4-link. The first thing I noticed was how you placed your upper frame-side brackets ~80% the distance of the lowers, do you by any chance know why this is recommended? (The first thing that comes to mind for me is pinion tracking) It seems almost all "universal" 4-link brackets seem to have the uppers mount almost directly above the lowers, I was just wondering if there was a big advantage to placing them how you did. Also, did you triangulate the lowers ~10 outwards or just perpendicular to the axle? I suppose if you just set the brackets directly inline with the frame you would likely be close to 10?

Definitely staying tuned in for this one
Making your own brackets isn't as hard as I would have thought. If you have a grinder and a drill press, you are in business. The real time saver is 3" 3/16" wall rectangle tubing. The inner dimension is perfect for "standard" joints. The 80% figure is something I see mentioned all the time but I rarely see people actually use it. I have no idea what the reasoning is. I assume the kits don't use it because it's easier / cheaper to just have the uppers directly above the lowers. I had plenty of room to do whatever, so I figured I would just run it. I only get around 2 degrees of pinon movement between full stuff and full droop which I think is fine.

The lowers are slightly triangulated, probably around 10%. I went from the center of the frame and just placed the brackets on the axle where they wouldn't interfere with the tires.
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Unread 04-15-2013, 01:21 PM   #100
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Opinions on 5.13's + 35's + V8?
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Unread 04-15-2013, 01:31 PM   #101
clintrivera
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Opinions on 5.13's + 35's + V8?
Way too low. 1st gear lasts around 10 feet and it spins pretty quick on the freeway. That's one of the main reasons I sold the axles and went with the JK's. I would need to be around 38-40 inch tires for 5.13's to work well and that wasn't happening with the TJ Rubicon 44's.
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Unread 04-15-2013, 03:25 PM   #102
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Way too low. 1st gear lasts around 10 feet and it spins pretty quick on the freeway. That's one of the main reasons I sold the axles and went with the JK's. I would need to be around 38-40 inch tires for 5.13's to work well and that wasn't happening with the TJ Rubicon 44's.
Thats what I assumed. You think 4.88's would be a better option?
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Unread 04-15-2013, 04:01 PM   #103
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Thats what I assumed. You think 4.88's would be a better option?
4.56 would get it back to factory. There are a lot of guys that run Silverados with 35's and 4.10's and they seem to like it. My Jeep is lighter, so should be good to go, plus my tires are closer to 34 inches than 35. The 4l60E has a pretty deep first gear.
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Unread 04-16-2013, 12:13 AM   #104
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Originally Posted by clintrivera View Post
4.56 would get it back to factory. There are a lot of guys that run Silverados with 35's and 4.10's and they seem to like it. My Jeep is lighter, so should be good to go, plus my tires are closer to 34 inches than 35. The 4l60E has a pretty deep first gear.
ehhemmm ... my 4.88s were already in when I started my swap ... with 33" tires and a preference to not go bigger. So I thought just try it ... and regear eventually later when I break something to 4.10 .

I compensated somehow for the short first of my 4L60E by slightly modding the part throttle shifting tables. I can hold 1st longer and still it shifts up smooth and quick enough.
(Yes ... HPTuner ... and lots of digging)

and yes ... fuel mileage is bad "cruising" with 70mph and about 2700 rpms ... but everything else in the terrain I wheel is GREAT ... my transmission stays reasonably cool in the dunes all day long and I can stay in 4hi which is important for the faster pace.
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Unread 04-16-2013, 01:23 AM   #105
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great build. Really looking forward to see whats next
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