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Unread 03-25-2013, 11:35 AM   #76
Kodiak17
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Thanks. I stole the design from one I saw on here. I choose the BTF covers because they were cheaper. No other reason really.
I know you're moving A LOT of **** around, but do you think they would clear things similar to stock?

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Unread 03-25-2013, 11:59 AM   #77
clintrivera
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Originally Posted by Kodiak17 View Post
I know you're moving A LOT of **** around, but do you think they would clear things similar to stock?
I have no idea. I guess I'll find out. The steering is different on the JK and I'm probably going with an over the axle track bar so I should be fine. I'll try to get a shot of the stock cover next to the Blue Torch.
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Unread 03-25-2013, 12:14 PM   #78
Kodiak17
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Originally Posted by clintrivera View Post
I have no idea. I guess I'll find out. The steering is different on the JK and I'm probably going with an over the axle track bar so I should be fine. I'll try to get a shot of the stock cover next to the Blue Torch.
Appreciate it
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Unread 03-25-2013, 11:23 PM   #79
clintrivera
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I measured it and its about 1/4" higher than the stock cover.
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Unread 03-26-2013, 10:53 AM   #80
Kodiak17
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Originally Posted by clintrivera View Post
I measured it and its about 1/4" higher than the stock cover.
Good to know, thanks.
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Unread 03-26-2013, 12:23 PM   #81
clintrivera
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Rear anti-rock shipped from Savvy today. Should be here by Friday. Also ordered some Rancho 9000X shocks for the rear. No word on those yet.
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Unread 04-03-2013, 08:15 PM   #82
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It was a Murphy's law sort of weekend. I thought I would start with something easy and replace the oil pan with my new H3 kit. Kit was complete, came with the baffle, all hardware, pickup, gasket, dipstick and dipstick tube. I started to snug up some of the oil pan bolts when I noticed there was a bolt hole in the pan that didn't go into the block. Took the pan off and it looks like someone filled in the hole with weld or whatever after a bolt broke. So I drilled and tapped it back out.



With that done, I figured I would work on the front axle since my anti-rock wasn't here yet to finish the rear. Drilled a bunch of holes in my axle and installed my sleeves. No problems there, everything went nice and smooth.





Then I welded on my inner C supports.



After that was done, I pressed in my Synergy ball joints. No issues there. Then I tried to bolt my knuckles on... And it would barely turn. WTF? So I pulled the knuckle off and scratched my head. The other side went on just fine and turned smoothly. So I started measuring things to see if my inner C was bent. Yup.



Bent 3.3 degrees. Might as well have been a mile. I grinded the C supports off and scratched my head some more. I thought, since it is already bent, what is the harm in cutting half way through the upper C, beating in place with a hammer, and welding it back up?



I had some 1.75" tube that was bent so after I cut my relief cut, I put it in the upper ball joint hole and bent it back till....



Yup. Money. Welded the supports back on, cranked the welder up to 11, welded the hell out of the relief cut, and through the knuckle back on. Smooth as silk, and the camber is within .3 degrees on the left and right. Good enough for a Jeep, I think.

That side of the axle had a broken shaft, and I think what happened is the shaft let go, took out the ball joint (it was way bad) and bent the upper C.
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Unread 04-03-2013, 08:40 PM   #83
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Surprised it bent the C. But I guess thats what the supports are for now. Everythings looking good.
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Unread 04-04-2013, 09:32 AM   #84
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JK's are notorious for bending C's. The upper part of the C is considerably longer than a TJ. This makes them weaker, especially when you put a heavier rig on it and put garbage ball joints in them from the factory. The part that surprised me is that the C bent down. The lower C on that side was perfectly fine. I'm guessing that the upper ball joint and blown front axle shaft did something pretty spectacular. The funny part is the axle tubes are nice and straight, as the Polly Performance sleeves slid in like butter.
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Unread 04-04-2013, 09:50 AM   #85
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JK's are notorious for bending C's. The upper part of the C is considerably longer than a TJ. This makes them weaker, especially when you put a heavier rig on it and put garbage ball joints in them from the factory. The part that surprised me is that the C bent down. The lower C on that side was perfectly fine. I'm guessing that the upper ball joint and blown front axle shaft did something pretty spectacular. The funny part is the axle tubes are nice and straight, as the Polly Performance sleeves slid in like butter.
Man, that would have to be a weird combination of breakage, given the direction of that bend...but all the same it was a pretty innovative fix! Nothing like a long-a** piece of pipe for stupid amounts of leverage. Also, I have that same angle gauge: Rampage learned to hate that thing, I think, when I was using it to measure their rear tire carrier spindle and determine that it was - ironically - about 3.3° off.

Also, mental note taken on the H3 oil pan.
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Unread 04-04-2013, 10:02 AM   #86
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Man, that would have to be a weird combination of breakage, given the direction of that bend...but all the same it was a pretty innovative fix! Nothing like a long-a** piece of pipe for stupid amounts of leverage. Also, I have that same angle gauge: Rampage learned to hate that thing, I think, when I was using it to measure their rear tire carrier spindle and determine that it was - ironically - about 3.3° off.

Also, mental note taken on the H3 oil pan.
It's a head scratcher for sure. Maybe the bottom of the tire was pushed to the inside and that bent it, causing the misalignment and eventual demise of the U joint?

I had a straight piece of pipe, but all that did was lift the axle off my jack stand. I remembered I had a bent piece from my first test bend in my bender and used that instead. Physics is great if you can use it to your advantage.

I love that angle gauge. For $30 it's one of the most handy tools around.

The H3 oil pan isn't a miracle cure but for $150 for EVERYTHING you need it's a cheap replacement for a cracked pan that was cracked when the engine fell on the ground on the engine crane.... Whoops. It only saves you about an inch of clearance over the truck pan. The F-body pan saves more, but you can get into oil starvation issues off camber.
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Unread 04-04-2013, 10:20 AM   #87
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The H3 oil pan isn't a miracle cure but for $150 for EVERYTHING you need it's a cheap replacement for a cracked pan that was cracked when the engine fell on the ground on the engine crane.... Whoops. It only saves you about an inch of clearance over the truck pan. The F-body pan saves more, but you can get into oil starvation issues off camber.
Dry sump.
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Unread 04-04-2013, 10:48 AM   #88
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Dry sump.
My bank account disagrees with that solution.
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Unread 04-07-2013, 07:11 PM   #89
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Started the weekend with a little shock outboarding.



Easy to do with the plasma. Like cutting through warm butter.



Came to a depressing conclusion. JK axles plus stock JK 5.75" backspacing plus rear anti-rock plus rancho RS9000 shocks = no go. I was pretty surprised since the JK axle is so much wider than a TJ, but without back halving the Jeep (not going to happen) there just isn't room for the giant shocks and the fat tires when the axle articulates. I'm going to order some spacers since I like the wheels and the budget is already very blown.



After some testing, it looks like this setup should work fine with some 1.25-1.5" spacers, or aftermarket wheels in the future at around 4.5" backspacing.

I also had time to install the ARB in the rear 44. Went pretty quickly since I didn't have to set the gears up again. The factory had the backlash at .012". This was a little loose, so I tightened it up. I ended up with around .09" backlash.



I also finish welded the entire rear axle and made a rear truss support that ties into the rear diff cover.



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Unread 04-07-2013, 08:39 PM   #90
kyle_craig
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Looks like things are coming together nicely. Well done so far!
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