Taming the BEAST! 5.3L V8 Powered TJ-6 - Page 29 - JeepForum.com

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post #421 of 563 Old 08-01-2013, 09:13 AM
GIJOE1914
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Love this build. What motor and tranny is that? I missed it earlier. Your gas mileage IMPROVED from the 4 banger? O_O

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post #422 of 563 Old 08-01-2013, 09:38 AM
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Love this build. What motor and tranny is that? I missed it earlier. Your gas mileage IMPROVED from the 4 banger? O_O
GM 5.3 Vortec and 4l60e. My gas mileage is way better that my 4.2/5 speed. I was getting 12-15, now im getting 18-23. My new mileage may not be totally accurate, Those numbers are using the Torque app over a 20 mile or so highway drive starting out in town and stopping in the next small town. I havent had the chance to run a full tank without some wheeling in there. And i'm having tank issues so I havent filled it all the way up for a while.
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post #423 of 563 Old 08-01-2013, 09:46 AM
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Originally Posted by Randonexplosion View Post
GM 5.3 Vortec and 4l60e. My gas mileage is way better that my 4.2/5 speed. I was getting 12-15, now im getting 18-23. My new mileage may not be totally accurate, Those numbers are using the Torque app over a 20 mile or so highway drive starting out in town and stopping in the next small town. I havent had the chance to run a full tank without some wheeling in there. And i'm having tank issues so I havent filled it all the way up for a while.
THANKS! WOW! Would a 6.0 fit? How "hard" is this swap? I have been looking at Hemi motors as well...Those Vortecs last forever
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post #424 of 563 Old 08-01-2013, 09:58 AM
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Yes, a 6.0 is the same size as a 5.3 and 4.8 physically. Read through this build thread more, and read through mine in my sig. I wouldn't say it is "hard" as I don't have near the capabilities as Clint, and mine was driving to the exhaust shop in 3 months from pulling the engine out of the donor.
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post #425 of 563 Old 08-01-2013, 10:16 AM Thread Starter
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Somewhere in Central Oregon , or at least thats the job my name is attached to right now .
Beautiful country out there. You should rent a Jeep and get the "extra insurance".
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Originally Posted by GIJOE1914 View Post
Love this build. What motor and tranny is that? I missed it earlier. Your gas mileage IMPROVED from the 4 banger? O_O
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Originally Posted by Randonexplosion View Post
GM 5.3 Vortec and 4l60e. My gas mileage is way better that my 4.2/5 speed. I was getting 12-15, now im getting 18-23. My new mileage may not be totally accurate, Those numbers are using the Torque app over a 20 mile or so highway drive starting out in town and stopping in the next small town. I havent had the chance to run a full tank without some wheeling in there. And i'm having tank issues so I havent filled it all the way up for a while.
Yup. What he said. I was floored in 4th gear with the 4 banger to barely do 60 on the freeway. With the cheap as dirt 5.3, I was doing 90 going up a mountain pass with throttle to spare. I'm getting almost double the mileage if I behave myself.
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Yes, a 6.0 is the same size as a 5.3 and 4.8 physically. Read through this build thread more, and read through mine in my sig. I wouldn't say it is "hard" as I don't have near the capabilities as Clint, and mine was driving to the exhaust shop in 3 months from pulling the engine out of the donor.
The more you spend the easier the swap is. You can fab everything or buy everything or a combination of both. The 6.0 is the same swap, just more (like 3X more) expensive.
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post #426 of 563 Old 08-01-2013, 10:53 AM
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The more you spend the easier the swap is. You can fab everything or buy everything or a combination of both. The 6.0 is the same swap, just more (like 3X more) expensive.
A 6.0 is a big improvement power wise over the 5.3, but you really will never need that much power in a Jeep unless you plan on bouncing it.

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post #427 of 563 Old 08-01-2013, 11:19 AM
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I had an '01 2500 with the 6.0 and I wasnt impressed. It was my work truck while I owned the 1500 that my drivetrain came from. Not sure what it was but I just didn't feel the power increase with the bigger engine. I wouldnt keep up with the 5.3. Yeah it was in a heavier truck, I just expected a bit more...
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post #428 of 563 Old 08-01-2013, 12:16 PM Thread Starter
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A 6.0 is a big improvement power wise over the 5.3, but you really will never need that much power in a Jeep unless you plan on bouncing it.
Depending on what 6.0 you are talking about, I'm not sure I would say it's a big improvement. Also, if you are swapping something more exciting than a 5.3 you need to starting thinking hard about everything behind it. Like the transmission, transfer case, drive lines, and axles. The 5.3 is a good compromise power wise and keeps you from having to swap to a one ton drive train to support it.
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Originally Posted by Randonexplosion View Post
I had an '01 2500 with the 6.0 and I wasnt impressed. It was my work truck while I owned the 1500 that my drivetrain came from. Not sure what it was but I just didn't feel the power increase with the bigger engine. I wouldnt keep up with the 5.3. Yeah it was in a heavier truck, I just expected a bit more...
I've never driven a 6.0, but the 1500 Silverado I had with the 5.3 was very quick for a truck.
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post #429 of 563 Old 08-01-2013, 12:30 PM
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Any v8 that actually makes decent power really needs more axle than any Dana 30/44 set up with 35s or bigger, and if 37s or bigger you got to toss the 231.

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post #430 of 563 Old 08-01-2013, 01:16 PM Thread Starter
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Any v8 that actually makes decent power really needs more axle than any Dana 30/44 set up with 35s or bigger, and if 37s or bigger you got to toss the 231.
It depends on where you wheel, but a stock 5.3 with an auto and 35's and a D44 and D30 (alloy shafts) would be fine for anything less than a very aggressive driver or terrain where 35's are borderline. I would argue that this setup would be less stressful than a 5 speed 4.0 with a 4 to 1 transfer case in regards to axle strength.

I'm not sure I would toss the NP231 on 37's. They put the NP231HD behind 1/2 ton v8 powered trucks. I would imagine I would grenade a 1310 U joint before the transfer case on my setup.
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post #431 of 563 Old 08-01-2013, 01:19 PM
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It depends on where you wheel, but a stock 5.3 with an auto and 35's and a D44 and D30 (alloy shafts) would be fine for anything less than a very aggressive driver or terrain where 35's are borderline. I would argue that this setup would be less stressful than a 5 speed 4.0 with a 4 to 1 transfer case in regards to axle strength.

I'm not sure I would toss the NP231 on 37's. They put the NP231HD behind 1/2 ton v8 powered trucks. I would imagine I would grenade a 1310 U joint before the transfer case on my setup.
And here I am, trying to keep my 3550 in place...

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post #432 of 563 Old 08-01-2013, 01:47 PM
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I would argue that this setup would be less stressful than a 5 speed 4.0 with a 4 to 1 transfer case in regards to axle strength.
I'm with you on this one Clint. All these preconcieved "rules" about axle strength and power output are subjective. With an auto, I'd say that I put less stress on just about everything while wheeling. Also with more available power I think it is eaier to control. Though I'm still on 33's Im not worried about my D30 with an Aussie and stock shafts.

P.S. I saw your comment on the Metalcloak hate thread. I had no Idea you really felt that way

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post #433 of 563 Old 08-01-2013, 01:56 PM
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Originally Posted by Randonexplosion

I'm with you on this one Clint. All these preconcieved "rules" about axle strength and power output are subjective. With an auto, I'd say that I put less stress on just about everything while wheeling. Also with more available power I think it is eaier to control. Though I'm still on 33's Im not worried about my D30 with an Aussie and stock shafts.

P.S. I saw your comment on the Metalcloak hate thread. I had no Idea you really felt that way

Preconceived rules about axle strength on this forum are all relative. Some people will tell you an xj hp 30 will hold up to 37s no matter how hard you wheel it, while others like me would never run a hair of a tire over a 35 on a 30, and even that would be pushing it for me.

I will say there are alot of factors to take in, but I stripped the ring and pinion out of my 30 on its 3rd trip out, that was enough for me to chunk it.

If I had more power with how I wheel on the east coast, trust me id use every ounce of it. As I tell everyone on the trail, it's much easier to drop your foot all the way down on the gas and focus on somewhat staying on the line than to try to play the gas while bouncing around.

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post #434 of 563 Old 08-01-2013, 02:04 PM
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Originally Posted by mcannon111 View Post
Preconceived rules about axle strength on this forum are all relative. Some people will tell you an xj hp 30 will hold up to 37s no matter how hard you wheel it, while others like me would never run a hair of a tire over a 35 on a 30, and even that would be pushing it for me.

I will say there are alot of factors to take in, but I stripped the ring and pinion out of my 30 on its 3rd trip out, that was enough for me to chunk it.

If I had more power with how I wheel on the east coast, trust me id use every ounce of it. As I tell everyone on the trail, it's much easier to drop your foot all the way down on the gas and focus on somewhat staying on the line than to try to play the gas while bouncing around.
That is true as well. It depends on where you wheel. granted mine is already high pinion, when I move up to 35s it may be a different story. Chromolys at a minimum. But I always try to keep wheel spin down and wheel smart vs hard. Sometimes it is nice to get on it though
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post #435 of 563 Old 08-01-2013, 02:09 PM Thread Starter
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And here I am, trying to keep my 3550 in place...
I think you will be just fine with level headed driving. As nice as your rig is, I find it hard to believe you would beat on it hard enough to worry about a 5.3 with a manual behind it.
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Originally Posted by Randonexplosion View Post
I'm with you on this one Clint. All these preconcieved "rules" about axle strength and power output are subjective. With an auto, I'd say that I put less stress on just about everything while wheeling. Also with more available power I think it is eaier to control. Though I'm still on 33's Im not worried about my D30 with an Aussie and stock shafts.
Exactly. An auto reduces a lot of stress on the drive train.
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P.S. I saw your comment on the Metalcloak hate thread. I had no Idea you really felt that way
The design solves tire clearance issues, but I really hate the look of them. Sorry.
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Originally Posted by mcannon111 View Post
Preconceived rules about axle strength on this forum are all relative. Some people will tell you an xj hp 30 will hold up to 37s no matter how hard you wheel it, while others like me would never run a hair of a tire over a 35 on a 30, and even that would be pushing it for me.

I will say there are alot of factors to take in, but I stripped the ring and pinion out of my 30 on its 3rd trip out, that was enough for me to chunk it.

If I had more power with how I wheel on the east coast, trust me id use every ounce of it. As I tell everyone on the trail, it's much easier to drop your foot all the way down on the gas and focus on somewhat staying on the line than to try to play the gas while bouncing around.
Agreed. The axle strength threads are irritating because it depends on where you wheel and how you drive. Clearly your driving style and terrain is going to need a lot more strength than mine, although I was pretty hateful with mine last Sunday and nothing fell apart.
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