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The Original 3/8" Ruffstuff Diff Cover!Building a Bumper?Introducing MONSTALINER™ UV Permanent DIY Roll On Bed Line

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Unread 07-07-2013, 05:47 PM   #361
Hendrix
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Page 17 Nice build so far!

Keep at it

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Unread 07-08-2013, 10:39 AM   #362
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Page 17 Nice build so far!

Keep at it
Thanks! I've been drooling over your build. My girlfriend is flying back from Nashville today, I should have her stop by and kidnap you to bodywork my Jeep!
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Unread 07-09-2013, 07:09 PM   #363
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I finally got off my butt and took a tape measure out and plugged in some numbers to the 4 link calculator. I have 9 degrees of roll oversteer, from what I read that is bad. At least I know where my handling issues are, and that I can fix them. I played around with it a bit, and like was said, if I flatten my links out I can get it to 0. I'm not sure how close to zero I need to be though?

I have a lot more to read, not sure how good my other numbers are either.

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Unread 07-09-2013, 08:04 PM   #364
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0º to -2º from what I've read. Shoot for between 0º & -1º.
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Unread 07-09-2013, 08:42 PM   #365
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Positive two to negative two is fine for roll axis. Mine is positive two. And Ive never seen it do anything funky.

You can bring it down by making your upper links longer and pushing your lower links on the axle end wider out
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Unread 07-09-2013, 09:27 PM   #366
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Hmm...I've been playing with the calculator, and just by lowering the back to a 2.5" spring I can get down to 6 degrees over-steer.

This next one is with 2.5" springs, axle lower raised, axle upper raised, frame upper lowered. Everything looks good but the travel roll axis changes a lot.

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Unread 07-09-2013, 10:12 PM   #367
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It's OK to have your axle side lower brackets that high on the axle?

Dibs on the 4" springs!
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Unread 07-10-2013, 06:01 AM   #368
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you need to have a minimum of 4 inches of seperation between your upper and lower links. Looks like you only have 3.75. I'd shoot for 5 inches. So do that and bring your lowers back down and that should keep the squat the same.
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Unread 07-10-2013, 06:05 AM   #369
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Also with the looks of how long you have your lower links, If they are placed that high on the axle the links will be banging into the frame very quickly.
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Unread 07-10-2013, 09:56 AM   #370
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Quote:
Originally Posted by cycleguy04 View Post
It's OK to have your axle side lower brackets that high on the axle?

Dibs on the 4" springs!
Probably not... I have you down as #1 on the list for the springs.
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Originally Posted by mcannon111 View Post
you need to have a minimum of 4 inches of seperation between your upper and lower links. Looks like you only have 3.75. I'd shoot for 5 inches. So do that and bring your lowers back down and that should keep the squat the same.
Yup, good point.
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Also with the looks of how long you have your lower links, If they are placed that high on the axle the links will be banging into the frame very quickly.
Another good point.

Anyway I was playing around again (this would have been much easier if I did this before I welded everything) And if I triangulate my lowers more, the numbers seem to get a lot better. So with 3 changes- lower springs, more triangulation, and lowering the upper link one hole, this is what I come up with. Am I missing something?

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Unread 07-10-2013, 10:01 AM   #371
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Looks good, numbers are starting to clean up. I'd bring the lowers up half an inch or so the get a little more squat. I'd shoot for something between 65 and 85. I think according the the calc mine is 78. And i love how mine works.
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Unread 07-10-2013, 10:08 AM   #372
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mcannon111 View Post
Looks good, numbers are starting to clean up. I'd bring the lowers up half an inch or so the get a little more squat. I'd shoot for something between 65 and 85. I think according the the calc mine is 78. And i love how mine works.
Hmm.. I read something about shooting between 80 and 100? If I just leave my frame side upper where it is right now, it is 75% with 45% travel anti squat. That would leave me with only two changes, lower springs and more lower triangulation.
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Unread 07-10-2013, 10:14 AM   #373
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Quote:
Originally Posted by clintrivera View Post
Hmm.. I read something about shooting between 80 and 100? If I just leave my frame side upper where it is right now, it is 75% with 45% travel anti squat. That would leave me with only two changes, lower springs and more lower triangulation.
Personally, I wouldn't only go by what the numbers "should" be. "Should" is subjective; I'd compare the existing geometry to the current performance/behavior and then use the link calculator to decide how much you need to change it in order to make the rig do what YOU want it to do. I know you know this, but I thought I'd remind you anyway. No offense intended.
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Unread 07-10-2013, 01:24 PM   #374
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Personally, I wouldn't only go by what the numbers "should" be. "Should" is subjective; I'd compare the existing geometry to the current performance/behavior and then use the link calculator to decide how much you need to change it in order to make the rig do what YOU want it to do. I know you know this, but I thought I'd remind you anyway. No offense intended.
True story. Although 9 degrees of roll axis angle is objectively a handful on the road. I didn't have any issues with the squat on my last trail ride, so I'll probably just keep it where it is and adjust it later if need be.

I compare it to my ex wife. I though I was happy and had a good relationship until I met my current girlfriend. You never know how good something can be until you experience it.
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Unread 07-11-2013, 01:16 PM   #375
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Positive two to negative two is fine for roll axis. Mine is positive two. And Ive never seen it do anything funky.

You can bring it down by making your upper links longer and pushing your lower links on the axle end wider out
mine is -1 and i love it, i had -8 before and it was terrible on the highway.

clint if you are going to rebuild it i would try building a crossmember to mount your lowers on so that you can mount them inward of your uppers. that helped me a lot
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