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Unread 10-23-2011, 09:19 PM   #1
EricsGreen98Tj
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1998 TJ Wrangler 
 
Join Date: Oct 2010
Location: Elkins, West Virginia
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The Survivor Project-driveway frame swap/33's "build"

I bought my 98 Tj SE dirt cheap. I knew there were some rust issues with the frame when I bought it but hey it was cheap.

The first time I took it to the trails around here I tore the rear UCA's off the frame...

The crap 235's that came on it were worn too much so I put a set of 1" BrownDog Motor mounts and a Zone 1.25" BL with 31x10.50 MT's and wheeled it some more.

Then that winter I was late for work and pulled into the gas station a little too fast and slid into the gas pumps...



It also pushed the tub forward on the frame-



Anyway I "fixed" those problems and in the spring I noticed this-




I was just gonna plate it and wheel but I found a frame on the classifieds on here for $125 that was in a wreck and "bent" so I went to Richmond Va. to get it.

I ended up comming home with a frame, a set of 5 gamblers, a spare bracket and a OEM fender for $225. I took the frame to an collision repair shop and had it measured to see how bent it was. Turns out it was only off 2mm!!!



Then I reinforced the rear UCA mounts with some 1/8" plate and then painted the frame with Chassis Saver.





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Unread 10-23-2011, 09:32 PM   #2
EricsGreen98Tj
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I had an 11 day vacation comming up and wanted to swap the frame then, so I went to my cousins and barrowed this-



This is how it set on Thursday the before I started the swap-



Then the tear down began. I got off work on a Friday and in 3 hours by myself here's how it set-



Then I unbolted the tub and lifted off with the engine hoist. ****NOTE-Even with the tub stripped of most everything it was still too much for the engine hoist. I ended up having to call my old man over and have him steady the tub while I lifted it off and then pushed the hoist over/away from the old frame.

Here is how it sat on Day 2 at around 4pm-





It took the rest of the day to get the rear trac bar frame side bolt/bushing out...

Day 3

Then I took the axles off the old frame and swapped em to the new frame. I also added a set of RCX 2.5" progressive springs, a pair of 3/4" daystar spacers to the front, and Skyjacker Hydro shocks(for a 4" lift) to the new frame at that time. In the rear I used the Tera Rear Upper Shock Relocation Brackets so the longer shocks would fit. Also put a Ranch SS on too.



You can see how the Tera brackets let your shocks go up through the rear crossmember giving you 1" more uptravel-



And I cant seem to do anything without my 5yr old helping me. He keeps it interesting

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Unread 10-23-2011, 10:01 PM   #3
EricsGreen98Tj
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Then I swapped the engine/tranny/t-case over to the new frame. I picked them all up with the hoist and pulled it back. Then I put the old frame down on this dolly thing I ganked from beside the Krogers dumpster



And rolled the old frame onto the sidewalk. Then I pushed the new frame with the axles and tires under it to the old frames spot and dropped the drivetrain in. I had to get a little creative with a peice of rope in order to get the drivetrain to balance right. But I was able to set the tranny mount down on the OEM skid first and then the motor mounts fell right into place.



I had to use a set of vicegrips on the steering shaft to get the frame turned around in the road and my driveway. Adapt and overcome.....right???



Day 4

Then it was on to fixing the tub. I'd never done any type of body work before this and I hope I dont have to do any ever again!

Drivers side rocker panel had a big hole in it so I cut it out and replaced it.

Before:



After:



When I pulled the seats out I found a hole under the drivers seat-



When I rolled the tub up on its side this is what I found-



NOT GOOD!!! So I cut the old rust sheet metal out,



welded in a nut for a body mount-



and welded some new 18guage in-





All that took 2 days...
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Unread 10-23-2011, 10:29 PM   #4
EricsGreen98Tj
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There was also a hole under the passinger side rollbar mount location too that I had to fix.

Day 6

I took a cupped metal brush for an angle grinder and ground all the OEM undercoating and alot of the rust off. Then wiped everything down with MEK and put the first coat of Chassis saver on..

Before-



After-



Day 7

Time to put the tub back on. But first I swapped the gas tank and skid onto the new frame and ran my SS brake and fuel lines I got from Classis tube and Inline tube. After that I called up 4 friends and Dad showed up to "Supervise"-which means he came over to get away from mom and drink a 12 pack or so.

Anyway we got the tub back on and I bolted it down again.





Then I proceeded to put the front clip and windsheild frame back on before dark. This is how far I mad it before it got too dark and dad got too drunk to be around..



I barrowed one of my buddies 35" Swamper Radials to see if I had enough room for em; I think I got more than 2.5" of lift out of the springs. They were for a 6cyl and I have a 4cyl so mabey I should have....

The 35 in the back,



and in the front.



And a comparrison of my old 31's to the 35" Swampers-



Day 8 and the early hours of Day 9

While putting the front clip back on I plugged up all the connectors for the wiring harness(that I LABELED before I seperated). So in the morning I put the battery and everything in and tried to start it. It FIRED RIGHT UP!!!
While it was running I bled the powersteering lines by turning the wheel, then I shut it off to top off the fluid again and .................it wouldnt start!!!!!!

So I pulled the relay and swapped it with the horn relay(which turns out are the same BTW)...Nothing.
I checked for spark at the coil and plugs............................................. ...........................YEP
I checked for pressure at the fuel rail's check valve............................................. ............some but not much
Checked to make sure everything was still plugged in right............................................. ...YEP
Tested the wires that plug into the fuel pump connector......................................... ..........Had power
Check for gas in the tank.............................................. ..............................................YEP
Checked all fuel line connections for a blockage.......................................... .....................none

I then checked everything again and found that I didnt have power on the fuel pump again. SO I started tracing the wires that go back to the sending unit and found a place where the insulation was tore/scrapped off of two wires; about 1" long. So I cut and spliced the wires back together and it started right up again, first try!!

It took me 13 hours to get it to start the second time. :thumbsdown:
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Unread 10-23-2011, 10:37 PM   #5
EricsGreen98Tj
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The rest of Day 9 was left to putting the roll bar, softop and whatnot back on.

After dark I strapped a milk crate to the tub and drove over to my mom and dads to get my seats that she had take the carpet cleaner too. ITS ALOT HARDER TO DRIVE WHILE SITTING ON A MILK CRATE THAN YOU'D THINK!!!

Day 10

I took it to my great great grandma's abandoned house/yard to test the flex. She has some HUGE rocks in her yard...







Not bad for OEM shock mounting locations, OEM CA's, 10" travel shocks, and 31's.
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Unread 10-23-2011, 10:59 PM   #6
EricsGreen98Tj
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After that I bought a set of Sidewinder 33's and some Chrome rims for $250 and just drove it too work and took the kids trail riding on the weekends.

Then about a month ago some old lady hit me directly in the front passinger side tire....







It turned out to be her fault and nobody was hurt. SO her insurance company cut me a check.

So I ordered:

A Smittybuilt x20 10 winch
A Body Armor winch plate(same brand as my front bumper)
A set of Superior 4.88's and master install kits
A D30 Eaton E-Locker
A D35 Detroit TruTrac
Alloy USA Chromo 27 spline axle kit(Wanted to go with Superior but the didnt have anything with c-clips)
A pair of JKS Adjustable End links for the rear sway bar.
Another Skyjacker shock for the front

Bought used and CHEAP:
JKD Quicker Disco's
A HP D30 housing out of a 96 Xj
Another complete HP D30 out of an XJ that had good shafts and unit bearings, calipers and rotors

Got for FREE:
Front and rear OEM trac-bars
A set of OEM CA's

So now Im in the process of installing gears and lockers for the first time. Did I mention Im doing it in my kitchen floor?

I had to get larger bearings for the D30 E-Locker. I called Eaton and Superior and the advised to put the carrier bearing shims on the outside of the bearings instead of between the locker and bearings.

So to to that I had to either buy a case spreader, or make one. I made one-



And while that did work, I stripped the threads of the nut out on my 3rd attempt to spread the case. So I modified my spreader-I drilled a hole so that the bolt could go through the peice of angle and the threads of the nut would always be enguaged, used a 3/4" shaft bolt and nut, and welded some 3/16"x1" flat bar to the outside of the spreader to stiffen it up some.

Works great now.

This is where Im at right now; installing traction aids and gears(in the kitchen) and trying not to screw it up too bad.
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Building my junk with more junk, so Im always on the look out for more junk....Free to cheap preferably. :D
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Unread 10-23-2011, 11:03 PM   #7
EricsGreen98Tj
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I should also add that I ran a Zone 3" lift for about a month and a half(before i hit the gas pump) and had to take it off and sell it, along with my 33x10.50 KM2's and Soft 8's. My wife got sick and couldnt work for about a month; Gotta do what you gotta do to keep a roof over your kids head and food in their bellies....

But I did like the lift while I ran it. And my 4cyl like the skinny KM2's alot better than it does the Sidewinders.
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Building my junk with more junk, so Im always on the look out for more junk....Free to cheap preferably. :D
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Unread 10-24-2011, 03:19 PM   #8
kvesi122
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Location: Sudbury, Mass
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I was wondering when this thread would show up on here. I can't tell you how many times i've read this over haha
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Unread 10-25-2011, 07:53 PM   #9
EricsGreen98Tj
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Glad somebody checked it out. I put alot of work into the peice of S......just for some old lady to t-bone me. Oh well.

I think I've got my gears down. Good pattern, .007 backlash, and 32in/lbs to rotate the pinion. Do I really need to have that inner pinion baffel in there? Im gettin tired of waiting for it...

BTW-its a heck of alot easier to put the shims on the outside of the carrier bearings when doing an E-locker. That way you dont have to keep taking the bearings on and off. I didnt even use setup bearings or any of that BS. just a rubber hammer, calipers, dial indicator, and some "click" Craftsman torque wrenches. Oh and my cheap spreader. Its not as bad as i thought it would be. Just have to make a good educated guess for a starting point.

But the D35 is kinda intimidating(sp?) me. IDK about that crush sleeve....or C-clips. Thinking of doing a rear disc brake swap from a Zj when I pull the rear end....depends on time and avability of parts.

Today I got the rear JKS sway bar links cut to length and installed. Also got my one good front shock unbolted from my bent Lp D30. Also drained the Lp, so I can sell the carriers and 4.10's. Oh and I painted my new Skycrapper Hydro black to match the others..
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Building my junk with more junk, so Im always on the look out for more junk....Free to cheap preferably. :D
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Unread 10-29-2011, 10:26 PM   #10
kvesi122
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Hey i have a question about your body mount repairs. as hard as it may be to believe i have the exact same rust problem! haha. I see that you welded a little cross member on there to put the bolt through. Could I bend some steel to make a u shaped replacement panel and burn it in do you think? The only problem that I can think of is that I wouldn't have a way to make that little recessed part.
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Unread 10-29-2011, 11:18 PM   #11
EricsGreen98Tj
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IF your talking about the body mount rails under the tub, and if your talking about the last 8-10" of it you dont have to bend anything. I just used some 1/8" 1"x1" angle iron and cut it into 10-12" peices, then welded it to the sides of what was left of the body mount after I ground away all the rusty metal. Then I just capped the two peices of angle with some 1/8" steel plate.

If your doing repairs in another part of the body rails then just measure how "tall" the rail is from the floor of the tub and buy a peice of angle that corresponds to the measurement you come up with. Then take a grinder to the peice that lays on the underside of the tub and cut it down to 1". Burn those on and cap with some 1/8" plate. Its easy but time consuming..

If your talking of something else completely post a pic of what your talking about......Sorry but Im crispy burnt out.
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Building my junk with more junk, so Im always on the look out for more junk....Free to cheap preferably. :D
My junk http://www.jeepforum.com/forum/f22/survivor-project-driveway-frame-swap-33s-build-1280626/index3.html
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Unread 10-29-2011, 11:38 PM   #12
EricsGreen98Tj
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still waiting on the dang pinion baffle to get here!!!!!
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Building my junk with more junk, so Im always on the look out for more junk....Free to cheap preferably. :D
My junk http://www.jeepforum.com/forum/f22/survivor-project-driveway-frame-swap-33s-build-1280626/index3.html
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Unread 10-30-2011, 09:15 AM   #13
sailsurf7713
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It's supposed to ensure proper gear oil distribution throughout the pumpkin. Where'd you order from, my dealership got it for me overnight? Granted I got bent over for it, but, no waiting!

Awesome build by the way! My SE could really use a frame swap as well.
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 97flexy View Post
...I say don't lift but CUT. :)
My Rusty Revival
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Unread 10-30-2011, 01:44 PM   #14
EricsGreen98Tj
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I ordered 2 pinion baffle's, a D35 pinion nut and another set of d35 pinion shims from 4wd.com. Its been over a week but they finally gave me a tracking # so they should be here wed or thurs.
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Building my junk with more junk, so Im always on the look out for more junk....Free to cheap preferably. :D
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Unread 10-30-2011, 01:54 PM   #15
kvesi122
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ahh good idea! that sounds much easier haha. thanks man!
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