SuperWade2's TJ Build Thread - Page 54 - JeepForum.com

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post #796 of 1143 Old 06-17-2012, 07:53 PM
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Originally Posted by SuperWade2 View Post
The one in question is came with the Currie UCA Kit, they came "pre-built", and I've never crawled under the take the JJ apart...

If it doesn't visible play I would leave it alone. To replace or rebuilt you take snap rings out and push the whole shebang out with a large socket or piece of pipe and a washer and a smaller socket on the other side and a piece of all thread. that way the smaller socket pushes everything into the larger socket or piece of pipe or you buy the Currie tool


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post #797 of 1143 Old 06-17-2012, 09:56 PM
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I thought it seemed awfully loose too... kinda stinks since it probably doesn't have 1000 miles since I installed those, but I guess not really designed for the RE lift I'm using it with.
If you're installer didn't disassemble it when he welded on the conversion, he probably overheated it and started the races to wearing faster than usual.

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post #798 of 1143 Old 06-17-2012, 10:03 PM Thread Starter
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If you're installer didn't disassemble it when he welded on the conversion, he probably overheated it and started the races to wearing faster than usual.
I can confirm that was the case... I don't remember the directions specifying that, but I don't remember for sure, and not worth worrying about now if it's already hosed.

Probably one of those things companies like Currie (and others in the Jeep aftermarket parts business) assume people should know to do and dummies like me don't.

I assume I'll need replacements of the Poly Bushings?

http://www.currieenterprises.com/ces...t.aspx?id=2510

*EDIT* Directions from Currie PDF Link don't specify dis-assembly ... I guess I needed to by psychic

Now to the passenger side – you will need to remove the upper arm. You will need to cut the top of the factory housing bracket off level with the ground 2 ” above the top of the axle tube. You will then take the 1" thick steel Currie piece with Johnny Joint installed and insert it into the existing bracket base. This may require a mallet to fully seat the Currie piece into the base. Now you will want to reinstall you upper control arm using the supplied 7/16" greasable bolt. At this time – with the weight on the vehicle - if you have any suspension bind or misalignment you can fine tune it to some degree by moving the new Currie mount around slightly if necessary. When you are satisfied with the fit and finish, you will weld around the 3 sides of the factory bracket base where it contacts the new Currie piece. Also you will want to weld along the 1" thick front facing edge of the Currie piece where it contacts the front end housing tube. This is all the welding that is necessary – do not do any further welding on the housing. This is one of the advantages of this kit – by using the stock bracket base you do not have to worry about welding on the actual housing and causing warpage because you are welding to the bracket base that is already welded to the tube.


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post #799 of 1143 Old 06-18-2012, 07:36 AM
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Originally Posted by SuperWade2 View Post
I thought it seemed awfully loose too... kinda stinks since it probably doesn't have 1000 miles since I installed those,
I had at least 15k on mine when they were pulled and they're still tight, so that seems odd. The uppers were sold and are still being run on another rig to this day and the front housing kit is going to Hendrix. My best guess is that you just received a special case of tolerances--maybe the load washers and center ball are at the bare minimum spec.
Quote:
Originally Posted by SuperWade2 View Post
but I guess not really designed for the RE lift I'm using it with.
Don't really think this holds any weight. It's not like your arms care if there's a bushing or a joint there. If anything, you're better off with the joints at the housing.

OlllllllO

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post #800 of 1143 Old 06-18-2012, 08:25 AM
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I had at least 15k on mine when they were pulled and they're still tight, so that seems odd. The uppers were sold and are still being run on another rig to this day and the front housing kit is going to Hendrix. My best guess is that you just received a special case of tolerances--maybe the load washers and center ball are at the bare minimum spec.

Don't really think this holds any weight. It's not like your arms care if there's a bushing or a joint there. If anything, you're better off with the joints at the housing.
Depends on how they are adjusted. With that style of arm, the joints will wear quickly if they are not adjusted perfectly and the axle is in a bind.

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post #801 of 1143 Old 06-29-2012, 12:17 AM Thread Starter
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Been on a self imposed hiatus that last few weeks, not much JF.Com time (kind of on purpose)... a little bit frustrated with the Jeep over the past several weeks, and so it hasn't moved much (other than a couple short trips to grocery store) since a "easy" trip to Hollister Hills earlier this month. Not sure what's up, but the something doesn't feel right in the front end, noises, rubbing, clunks, chunks, generally not feeling that great about how it's rolling and not exactly sure why.

I guess we all go through ebbs and flows in our level of interest. Right now I'd almost rather go play a round of golf than spend 4 hours under the Jeep. I don't have any wheeling trips planned for the rest of the year, so not sure when I'll be back at it.

I think over the next few weeks/month or two I'm going to take the front axle apart (considering removing it completely from the rig again), replacing the unit bearings, replacing the XRF ball joints, replace the Rubicon Express CA Bushings (front an rear) on my Long Arms, check the Currie JJ UCA Mounts, check (and/or replace) the Axle UJoints and give everything a good once over. I need to also tighten my front sway-bar (wondering if I shouldn't switch from the Swayloc to a Currie AntiRock!?) since it's making all kinds of creaking and popping noises, and have my front drive shaft (Tom Woods) checked out as I think it might need a rebuild already.

I think Johnson Valley this past April, while nothing major "broke", took it normal (more than most other places on the planet) toll on my components. I should be happy that I was able to drive the thing onto the trailer under it's own power. I guess I forget how hard JV is compared to everything else.

I appreciated the phone conversation today with MrBlaine...sometimes a little perspective helps when things get frustrating. I need to be happy and proud of what I've built and not so worried about what I don't have!

Wade


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post #802 of 1143 Old 07-02-2012, 09:37 PM Thread Starter
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Collecting Parts for the next Front End Refresh...



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post #803 of 1143 Old 07-03-2012, 02:35 AM
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Nice! I was debating those when I recently built my hp30, but there wasn't enough info or reviews. Interested to see what you think of them!

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post #804 of 1143 Old 07-03-2012, 08:38 AM
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I have them on mine. Can't ask for a better product

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post #805 of 1143 Old 07-03-2012, 08:54 AM
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I have them on mine. Can't ask for a better product
How many miles do you have on them in what terrain?

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post #806 of 1143 Old 07-03-2012, 09:27 AM Thread Starter
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Nice! I was debating those when I recently built my hp30, but there wasn't enough info or reviews. Interested to see what you think of them!
Agree, not much known at this point, or empirical evidence of them being better than anything else out there, other than PolyPerformance telling us so and "it must be better because it's more expensive"!

I doubt that anyone has 70-80K "hard" miles on these yet and there are plenty of "The Spicers work fine" reply's to Ball Joint threads on here... I don't disagree one bit, I've had Spicer, Moog, XRF and now will try these. The Spicers are tried and true for most people.

I also doubt that the Synergy ones are worth twice or will last twice as long as the Spicers, but I've pissed away money on my rig in a lot worse places. Its not like we are talking about a thousands of dollars type mistake.

If nobody is willing to try them, then we'll never have any evidence if they are good or bad. I doubt I'll EVER get 70-80K on any Ball Joints (since that will take 20-25+ years at my current average annual mileage)

If they fail after 1 trip to Johnson Valley (like I'm afraid my XRF's did), then I'll happily post that on here and warn everyone not to throw their money away on them and continue to buy Spicers!



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post #807 of 1143 Old 07-03-2012, 02:05 PM
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How many miles do you have on them in what terrain?
I probably have a 1k on mine with 2 trips to Rausch Creek involved. I also put them on my Dad's. He is probably up around 5k on them now with 2 trips to RC as well. So far I can't complain. They look to be high quality, but we'll see..

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post #808 of 1143 Old 07-03-2012, 09:02 PM
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I probably have a 1k on mine with 2 trips to Rausch Creek involved. I also put them on my Dad's. He is probably up around 5k on them now with 2 trips to RC as well. So far I can't complain. They look to be high quality, but we'll see..
We get about 50-80,000 out of the Spicers on 35's. Until someone beats that with a set of the Synergy balljoints, I can ask for something more.

Don't get me wrong because I'm a huge fan of all the Poly stuff I buy and I'm averaging several hundred dollars worth on a monthly basis. But, similar to the RCV stuff whose owners for the most part never even broke a stock axle, the Poly stuff still isn't proven and claims like yours don't help.

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post #809 of 1143 Old 07-04-2012, 07:37 AM
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True. Well, I can say they've done everything I can ask for so far. You have to admit people are picking these up for a reason. They can't keep them in stock.

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post #810 of 1143 Old 07-04-2012, 08:22 AM
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True. Well, I can say they've done everything I can ask for so far. You have to admit people are picking these up for a reason. They can't keep them in stock.

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