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Unread 09-26-2011, 07:32 AM   #16
hallsofstone
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Cool progress! More pics of the cardboard mock up and bumper build required...

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Unread 11-01-2011, 06:59 PM   #17
suddendeath
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Location: mays landing, nj
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I've been working and been at school too much to do a lot to the jeep, but I have had time to pull off the front bumper and take some measurements/mark some holes to drill. I'd like to have the front winch on by the Jeep's in the Vineyard show here in NJ, but I doubt it'll happen.


On a complete tangent now. I had been crusing Jeepforum when I noticed a huge writeup on XJ guys using the sanden air compressor for OBA. Apparently it puts out something like 8CFM @ 120psi @ idle and works great for an OBA compressor, once you solve the oiling issues it has.


I had been wanting OBA, but didn't want to have to put a york in for it. So I went to harbor freight, grabbed some stuff, and started working on my Sanden OBA project.


You'll need some stuff first. Stuff like this:


Small air filter for the air intake on your soon to be OBA compressor. A small crankcase ventilator filter works well. They look like this, and you can get them at autozone for like $6.






To solve the Sanden's oiling issue (The sanden compressor is lubricated by the freon in the AC lines, without that freon it'll lock up eventually.) I nabbed one of these guys. Its called a "Fog Lubricator" and you use it to keep your air tools oiled in big auto shops. It was $10 at harbor freight.


http://www.harborfreight.com/38-oil-...tor-68233.html






Then, I grabbed an air filter/air dryer and water/oil seperator to grab some of the oil out of the air stream coming out of the compressor. Once again, $10 at harbor freight.


http://www.harborfreight.com/38-comp...ter-68230.html






You're going to need an air manifold to split your air supply off to your different destinations. The tank, the pressure switch, front/rear hookups, etc. I grabbed this 3 port manifold from harbor freight. It even came with 3 quick connectors, which I held on to for other stuff.


http://www.harborfreight.com/3-way-u...old-68195.html






You're going to need some air line to run. 3/8th air line is a good size to use for something like this. You can use 1/2, but 1/4 is just too small. Its up to you and your wallet. I grabbed this spool of 50ft of PVC air line, it was $15 at Harbor Freight. I didn't want to spend a lot, since I'd be cutting it up.


http://www.harborfreight.com/50-ft-x...ose-91527.html






The Sanden's stock fittings are 3/4 NPT sized, so you'll need some 3/4 to 1/2 or 3/8's couplers. You can find the couplers and fittings at any hardware store or plumbing store. This is what one looks like:







Make sure you have plenty of 3/8 and 1/4 fittings and couplers. You are going to need them, trust me. While your at harbor freight, grab one of their hose clamp kits. Its $5 and it's well worth it.


http://www.harborfreight.com/40-piec...ent-67578.html





You're going to need a pressure switch so the compressor knows when to engage and disengage to keep your air supply going. I nabbed this guy at Lowes for $21. It comes set for 30 PSI on 50 PSI off, but you can crank it up to 200 PSI.


http://www.lowes.com/pd_74036-15649-...tch&facetInfo=





You're also going to need a pressure relief valve, or a blowoff valve as some call it in case the PSI gets too high. Mine is set for 130 PSI and I nabbed it off of an old junk air compressor. You can get them online for varying $$. Lowes sells one that goes off at 115 PSI, a little low for me, but might work for you. Northern Tool sells a few too. I don't have a direct link, but here's a picture:





Okay, so there is the shopping list. Next, is the build and results...
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1990 Grand Wagoneer.

SOA/SF. 33 MTs, D44 4.10 F/R Locked Rear, Eddie Intake, Holley TA 670, HEI, OBA, 12k Winch, Beefy Bumpers F/R.
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Unread 11-01-2011, 07:01 PM   #18
suddendeath
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I started mapping it all out and putting it together. First, you need to remove the lines and fittings that attach to the compressor. I don't have a good picture of this, but its simple I promise. You're not going to re-use anything AC related other than the compressor, so you can cut lines or remove it all and trash it. Up to you.


When you map out your OBA setup, factor in some saftey room when you start cutting lines. If you need 12", cut 14" just to be safe. That's my idea anyway.


I hooked my air filter directly to the 'input' side of my oiler, and then plumbed my oiler to the compressor's 'blue' side. This is the intake side. Pictures below:






This is what my compressor looks like with the new inbound/outbound fittings and such. SOMETHING TO THINK ABOUT! The outbound air can be VERY hot. Hot enough that it will melt and deform anything plastic. This is why I have a section of metal pipe on the outbound before it hits the PVC line, to help disperse this heat so it doesnt melt my outbound air line.





That metal pipe is a 1/2" pipe that is 10" long. It ends in a 1/2 to 3/8 reducer and then goes into my air filter. The filter uses a 3/8 to 3/8 nipple to connect to the air manifold. Shown below:





The manifold splits off in 3 directions. One goes to my pressure switch and blowoff valve, which are connected via a T:





The 2nd direction goes to the rear of the truck to my air tank and rear hookup, the 3rd direction goes to my front hookup. I ran temporary electrical just to see if it even worked, and pressure tested the system up to 110 PSI. Everything worked great. Tomorrow I need to do the final electrical wiring and seal up some leaky fittings.


Tune in tomorrow for the electrical and other details!
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1990 Grand Wagoneer.

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Unread 11-02-2011, 04:13 PM   #19
FinnXJ
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Love the grill swap. That's probably my favorite front end Jeep ever made.
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Unread 01-27-2012, 02:25 PM   #20
suddendeath
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It's been a while since I posted up here, so I'm going to cover the last few months in one or two long posts. Here it goes.

Regeared F/R to 4.10's, open carriers (for now)
Reversed Front Springs to help with pinion angle/approach angle
Replaced Brake Master Cylinder
Tweaked my OBA setup, still haven't mounted the tank yet

I have some pictures from the spring reversal, it's as simple as unbolting your front axle/springs and just flipping them around. I had to hack my fenders a little, but this look is only temporary and I'm going to be going back over it all to make it match the body lines.

Caster Angle after spring reversal:





Good view of pinion angle. Note my really worn out driver side leaf spring and how it's S-bending compared to the passenger spring. This is what SOA on totally dead stock springs will cause. I had considerable Wag-Sag before my SOA, now I need new springs within 4 months I'd guess.




How she looks post-spring reverse:




I grabbed a front driveshaft for the jeep and installed it. Seems like flipping those front springs helped out a bunch, even before the FUBAR driveshaft that just died, I always had front driveshaft vibes post-SOA. Now, it was pretty good with only a slight 20-30mph vibe.

My driveshaft was a direct bolt in, no shortening required. It was off of a 1990-1994 (Square Nose) Ford Explorer. It was about 2" shorter than an XJ shaft I had already grabbed, and it works perfectly at the length it is now. So for anyone thinking of SOA/Spring Reversal, grab yourself one of those first gen explorer shafts.

That's it guys, gotta tear into my differentials again and drain/fill the fluid and adjust some things. Next big project is springs all around and my so far stalled bumper build.
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1990 Grand Wagoneer.

SOA/SF. 33 MTs, D44 4.10 F/R Locked Rear, Eddie Intake, Holley TA 670, HEI, OBA, 12k Winch, Beefy Bumpers F/R.
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Unread 01-27-2012, 02:27 PM   #21
suddendeath
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It's been a while, but I do have some things to post. I've been working with Jeepfan93 (Great guy) on my rear bumper/swingout project, and tomorrow we're applying the final touches. Also got my rear springs from Team Grand Wagoneer today, and I have a wonderful surprise!

Apparently, the TGW replacement springs aren't just stock replacement. The front springs have a full-length second leaf in the pack under the main leaf. This eliminates the "weak spot" in our stock leaf springs that causes the nasty breakage and S-bending that our stock packs suffer from. May still put in a 2" AAL if I decide to do 35"s, but I'm pumped about these new springs. Great stuff TGW!

Nothing spectacular, but here is a picture of the new springs plus a picture noting the full-length second leaf:



Showing the full length 2nd leaf:



Next post, bumper build!
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1990 Grand Wagoneer.

SOA/SF. 33 MTs, D44 4.10 F/R Locked Rear, Eddie Intake, Holley TA 670, HEI, OBA, 12k Winch, Beefy Bumpers F/R.
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Unread 01-27-2012, 02:31 PM   #22
suddendeath
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List of Materials/Cost:

70" Section of 4x4 3/16th wall tube: $45 (It was actually 83", cheaper to buy a pre-cut piece)

About 12-14' of 2x2 1/8th wall for the swingout: $40

A 2'x3' section of 1/2" plate for brackets: $20

2 20" pieces of 4"x1/2" flat bar for brackets: $20 each

About 2 dozen 1/2" grade 8 bolts and nuts: $10 for the whole bag

A to Z Fabrication "Rear Tire Carrier Kit" : $90

Add in some $ for welding supplies: $35

Total (Not including gas for the 60 mile trip to Jeepfan93's house both days): $260

The whole project was 2 full days, start to finish, but with plenty of planning before hand. An FYI to anyone who reads this and likes the build, huge credit to Chuck Brown's (on IFSJA.org) bumper build. I used his as the basic inspiration and ran from there.

Also, the AtoZ latch is stupid. Buy your own.


Pictures:






















Things need to be finished up, as I said. It's going to get some style lines cut into it, the edges angled and stuff, etc. So that way it doesn't just look like a 4x4 welded to the back of my truck. Also have a Class 3 reciever waiting to get welded in, we just didn't have the time/tools to cut the square hole for it.

I also have brand new leaf springs waiting to get on this beast, so I need to manage my time. Want to get the bumper finished, the springs in, and bumpstops for the front installed before the wheeling trip on February 19th. My front U joints are making noise too, so I need to take things apart and get them swapped with the spares I have in the shed. Its also time to drain and check the differentials from the junkyard gear install a month ago. Started whining a little at speed, so going to check the bearings, run a pattern and re-shim.

All in all, this was a huge step forward for me. Stay tuned for more Grand Wag action in the future!
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1990 Grand Wagoneer.

SOA/SF. 33 MTs, D44 4.10 F/R Locked Rear, Eddie Intake, Holley TA 670, HEI, OBA, 12k Winch, Beefy Bumpers F/R.
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Unread 01-27-2012, 09:54 PM   #23
metalry101
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Awesome build man! I love seeing old Wags get the attention they deserve instead of being crushed!
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Unread 01-28-2012, 11:05 AM   #24
Dr. Marneaus
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Nice dude, that was super helpful info about the OBA.

Luckily, i have a york compressor so it's self oiling, but everything else you showed looks applicable. Thats a project i'd like to do "down the road" but i cannot convince myself to remove the option of repairing my AC, haha.

Also, that bumper looks good! I really need to get my hands on something similar to get my dang spare out of the interior.

Keep up the good work!
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Unread 01-29-2012, 12:14 AM   #25
suddendeath
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Yeah OBA with the York is much easier. The sanden however shouldn't just be scrapped by the guys who have that model. Its easily capable of 160+ psi and decent cfm. I have a 6 cfm impact gun and with no air tank can take off 1 lug nut at a time using the line pressure.

Springs are going on tomorrow!
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1990 Grand Wagoneer.

SOA/SF. 33 MTs, D44 4.10 F/R Locked Rear, Eddie Intake, Holley TA 670, HEI, OBA, 12k Winch, Beefy Bumpers F/R.
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Unread 01-30-2012, 03:21 PM   #26
suddendeath
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I started putting my new springs on today, got the fronts on and called it a day. Running into an old issue that's showing its ugly mug again. My front driveshaft barely lines up with the front pinion, and has maybe .5" of drop before it bottoms out on the transmission crossmember. Tuesday or Wednesday going to cut off the perches and get things as close to perfect as I can, then notch the crossmember and clearance the CV yoke a bit. Going to aim for 3-4* caster and as much pinion angle as I can get.

I know, "Cut and turn the axle fool!" is the way to fix this. But I don't want to pour all of that effort into my LP Dana 44 when I'm always shopping craigslist for a HP D44.

This is a classic case of where 'everyone else' on the internet has 'no issue' with their pinion angle and driveshaft, but I'm having nothing but difficulty one day after another. We'll see what happens.
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1990 Grand Wagoneer.

SOA/SF. 33 MTs, D44 4.10 F/R Locked Rear, Eddie Intake, Holley TA 670, HEI, OBA, 12k Winch, Beefy Bumpers F/R.
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Unread 12-17-2012, 09:02 PM   #27
suddendeath
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It's time to post a catch-up post. I'm bored and figured I'd update this. Nobody's reading it anyway

Where were we last? Riiiiight, OBA. That was...like...a year ago. This is going to be a long post...here we go.

The jeep has gone through a lot since I last posted here. In my previous post I was in the middle of swapping in new leaf springs and was complaining about caster/pinion angle issues. Still have the pinion angle problems, but in the next month or so I'll be cutting and turning the front axle so it won't be a problem anymore .

Let's take this from the top.

New springs:



Here is a picture of the truck BEFORE the spring install:



And now, after the springs:



Totally digging the ride height, these new springs haven't drooped a single inch over the last year. Even with my winch bumper on the front! (Yes, I said winch bumper! More info below).

I also built a rear tire carrier with the help of my good buddy Lou, Jeepfan93 over on ifsja.com. I designed it, cut it out, layed it all out and he helped me out and did the welding since at the time my welding skills were poopoo. Pics:





Lou welding the bumper body onto the frame mounts/tow points.



See this! This is a swingout! Well...it will be! Trust me, just wait and see!





Here is a shot of the frame mounts/tow points. They both form T shapes that bolt together with 4x grade 8 1/2" bolts. This lets me take the bumper on and off. The frame mounts pass through the truck's rear frame crossmember and are bolted to the main frame rails. Then the mounts were welded into the crossmember to make it solid again.



Measure it 3x, drill the giant freeging hole once.



ZOMG! I freeken told you it'd turn into a swingout!

Lou said, "I'm glad you bought extra 1/8 tube, because we're going to need to trim this a few times to get the angles right."

I looked at him funny and replied with "Uh...A squared + B squared = C squared. Right triangles man, right triangles." Looks like us monkeys screwed up and got it right!





This is a really awesome picture. My camera decided it wanted to adjust to the brightness of the welder, instead of the ambient brightness in the room. I tried to take more like this, but had no idea how to.



I think...well...I've been wrong before...but If I'm right...a tire should bolt on here!



Gusseted it with a piece of 1/4" we had lying around, to help carry the weight of a heavy steel wheel and 33~35" tires. Dis beetch is sturdy.



And there it is! In all of it's...well...unfinished beauty! We had just pulled a 12 hour day building this thing and we were both beat, so I drove it home like this to finish up the details later.



And here is our wonderful home-made solution to the latch problem. The A to Z fabrication bumper kit comes with a T-handle latch that screws into a threaded piece of metal. Well, the T handle setup was too short. So we cut the head off of it, made it longer, and welded a wrench to it to form the T. Think craftsman will still honor that warranty of theirs?



And here she is, finished and painted with some bedliner!



Stay tuned kids, more to come.
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1990 Grand Wagoneer.

SOA/SF. 33 MTs, D44 4.10 F/R Locked Rear, Eddie Intake, Holley TA 670, HEI, OBA, 12k Winch, Beefy Bumpers F/R.
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Unread 12-17-2012, 09:20 PM   #28
suddendeath
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Okay, so now we're at about March of 2012.

At this time, Lou started working on this:



And in between all of that, I started working on this:







And while I was taking it apart to fix the floor and stuff, I found this bundle of junk sitting under the dash and decided to rip it all out. Who needs this stuff anyway?



I was tired of my truck lighting itself on fire, due to the previous owner cutting out all of the fusible links. So we installed a 150amp circuit breaker and a fuse panel to handle the main power distribution.



Also redid the wires for the alternator and such since they were pretty ugly:



New starter relay! Yay!



Clean wires! No more rats nest! Well...sort of. It's still pretty ugly...I'll admit.



Oh yeah, so anyway, back to the inside of the truck. Grinded the rust clean on the floor, patched some holes, and cleaned it up really nice. Then I bought some of this stuff:



And some of this stuff:



After about two days the inside looked something like this:







Yay! Bedlinered floor! Yay!

Then I had his show up in the mail:



But that would sit in a box for a few months before I finally did my full high steer. Back to the other stuff! I got a phone call a few days after finishing the inside, took the Saturn and picked up this!



Winch bumper! Yes! Ultra-Yes! SUPER YES.



I can get used to this look. Totally like.





Annnnd that's about what it looks like right now. Took it on the 2012 Mid Atlantic Full Size Jeep Club's Jeep-In camping trip and she did great. Here's the group pic:



And then she was off the road for 4 months while I tore the motor apart, broke some bolts in the heads, broke some exhaust parts, messed up some transmission pan gaskets, and a bunch of other ****. But...it's back on the road now! Yay! Pics of exhaust and hi-steer later. Chill for now kids.
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1990 Grand Wagoneer.

SOA/SF. 33 MTs, D44 4.10 F/R Locked Rear, Eddie Intake, Holley TA 670, HEI, OBA, 12k Winch, Beefy Bumpers F/R.
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