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Unread 09-07-2011, 08:38 PM   #46
shortstax33
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I may ask you about borrowing it tomorrow when I get to work.

On the plus side, it looks like new calipers are going to cost about $20.00 per side. I'll double check my rotors but they looked good, no ridiculous grooving, still might replace em, we'll see. And I'll definitely replace the pads. tack on tightening up the parking brake a bit to my list of things to do. It's a good thing I love working on this thing, or I'd be hating myself for this purchase.

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Unread 09-07-2011, 08:46 PM   #47
Jeffro06
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Quote:
Originally Posted by shortstax33 View Post
I may ask you about borrowing it tomorrow when I get to work.

On the plus side, it looks like new calipers are going to cost about $20.00 per side. I'll double check my rotors but they looked good, no ridiculous grooving, still might replace em, we'll see. And I'll definitely replace the pads. tack on tightening up the parking brake a bit to my list of things to do. It's a good thing I love working on this thing, or I'd be hating myself for this purchase.
I've already got it sitting out.

When I did the brakes on the YJ I just replaced it all, calipers, rotors, pads all at once...it was surprisingly cheaper than I thought it would be.
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Moab Trails I've done: Onion Creek, Long Canyon, Dome Plateau, Top of The World (2), Fins-N-Things (2), Poison Spider,
Golden Spike, Gold Bar Rim, Hell's Revenge (2), Baby Lion Back, Cliff Hanger, Moab Rim, Kane Creek Canyon, Strike Ravine

Shortcuts to key points in my build: MTRk's OME 2" HD Lift Antirock Skidrow steering box & radiator skids LoD rear bumper
Rokmen Mercenary bumper w/Superwinch Rokmen sliders Skidrow engine skid Rampage Top CB set up
Custom trunk Rokmen 1" Billet spacers JJ track bar Rokmen Adjustable Control Arms Currectlync Steering
Rokmen Trail Corners Metalcloak Overlines Kentrol Hood Latches JK Turn Signals Xenon 4" Flat Flares Hood Decal Duratracs
Derale Tranny Cooler DieHard Factor 55 Thimble Ten Factory Front Chromo Shafts

Get your build sheet here.
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Unread 09-07-2011, 08:51 PM   #48
shortstax33
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Yes!! Thanks!

Yeah, I was just ball parking prices tonight online... I can buy, online, complete calipers including ceramic pads for I think $69.00. I looked at replacing the calipers on the Spyder a long time ago...each caliper was around $140.00. Screw Toyota, I'll take Jeep repairs any day! And rotors really aren't all that expensive... I'll probably replace them too. No need getting stingy NOW of all times...
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Unread 09-08-2011, 01:48 PM   #49
shortstax33
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Ahh, some new toys are on the way to make wheeling a little bit easier. Now brakes tonight, (Thanks Jeff for the bleeding tool, I'll be picking one of my own up pronto), power steering tommorrow, then waiting on the brown santa!
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Unread 09-09-2011, 10:33 AM   #50
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The Caliper Write Up

Alrite, got all my parts ordered from Autozone and picked the following up last night.

-Duralast re-manufactured calipers, right and left
-Duralast rotors x 2
-Duralast Gold ceramic brake pads

The following tools were used for this project
-harbor freight electric impact wrench (lug nuts)
-13/16ths impact socket (lug nuts)
-3/4ths impact socket (locking lug nut)
-locking lug nut tool (Locking lug nut)
-socket wrench
-3/8" torque wrench
-14mm socket (banjo bolt)
-13mm socket (caliper mounter bolts)
-11mm socket (replacement caliper mounting bolts)
-9mm deep well socket (caliper bleeder valve)
-brake grease (back of brake pads)
-bleeding tool
All the parts and some of the used tools.

First off the jeep got thrown up on jack stands. I use my 6 ton harbor freight stands.
Next I used my impact to pull off the lug nuts from the tire. I pulled the tire off and placed both aside so I wouldn't lose any nuts.

What we have hear is a very dirty hub/rotor/caliper.

Here's a picture of the back of the mounted caliper. I pre-loosened the banjo bolt that's in the middle there. It's the one with the brake line coming from it and it requires a 14mm socket. Once it was lose, I finger tightened it so it wouldn't lose any brake fluid. Then remove the to caliper bolts which require the 13mm socket.
The new caliper, part number C336 belongs on the driver side. C337 belongs on the passenger side. I'm assuming this is an Autozone part specific number, so make sure you use the correct caliper for the correct side.

I removed the caliper from the hub and let it rest on the chassis.

I then pulled the rotor from the hub. Mine slid off really easy. I've heard rumors of people having trouble and needing BFHs and torches. Mine slid right off. Here's the old and the new sitting next to each other for comparison to insure it's the same part.

The now naked hub.

I cleaned some of the loose dirt away from the hub assembly and slid the new rotor into place.

Time to prep the replacement caliper. Again, insure you have the right caliper for the right side. The bleeder valve should be near the top of the caliper when mounted, at least...that was the orientation of my existing one.
You're going to need your new pads, brake grease and the new caliper.

Apply a thin layer of grease to the back of the pads. DO NOT GET ANY GREASE ON THE FRICTION SURFACES.

Mount the inside pad first. It just slides right into the plunger of the caliper. Then the second pad just line up the pad on the inside of the caliper jaw, and the metal spring bracket on the outside, and push it into place. The little numbs on the back of the pad will basically lock into place on the wholes on the caliper jaw. The assembled unit will look as such.

Mount the caliper onto the rotor/hub assembly.

Install the replacement caliper mounting bolts. They require an 10mm socket for some reason. Torque them to 11ft/lbs. I guess over-tightening can lead to jacked up calipers. I've never done it or seen it, nor care to find out, so don't over tighten it.

Remove the green plug, as that's where your banjo bolt is going to go. The replacement caliper should have come with 2 copper washers. The order of these on the line will be, copper washer - brake line - copper washer - banjo bolt. This next step you want to move fast on so you don't lose to much fluid. Remove the banjo bolt from the old caliper, set it up as I just described with the copper washers, then screw in the banjo bolt into the whole the green plug was in. There's only one way to attach it, so you can't scew it up. Tighten it down and discard the old caliper (or save to get your core charge back from Autozone).

Here's the caliper all mounted and the brake line reattached.


Open up the bleeder valve (loosen it), that's the little silver nipple looking thing next to the banjo bolt near the top. I used a bleed-o-matic that I borrowed from Jeffro. I guess it's only about $10.00 from NAPA, so I'll be making a purchase soon.

Just plug the bleeder hose into the bleeder nipple on the caliper. I hung the bottle using the little magnet supplied with the bottle.


Open the brake reservoir in the engine compartment. Now pump the brakes and watch the bleeder line. When you stop seeing bubbles in the line pump and the bottle fills about 2/3rds of the way, the line is bled. Remove the bleeder line, tighten up the bleeder valve on the caliper and discard the excess brake fluid appropriately. Top off the fluid reservoir in the engine compartment, put the cap back on, re-mount the tire, take the jeep off the jack stands, and you're done!

Repeat the process for the passenger side.

I let her roll down the driveway real slow, and brakes work great. Took her to Autozone to return my caliper cores and the tugging to the left is finally gone. The one negative thing I discovered is, when I still had the jeep up on stands, my driver side wheel has play to it. I think I need to replace the wheel baring. The passenger side is still good, but it's another thing that needs addressing. Such is the life of a jeep owner I suppose.

Any feedback if this was worth reporting, or if I should have kept my pics to myself and just told you I replaced the calipers, is welcome and appreciated, lol. It'll determine if I document future projects as thoroughly, more-so, or less-so.
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Unread 09-09-2011, 10:34 AM   #51
shortstax33
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Next mission: find out where my F'n power steering leak is coming from.
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Unread 09-09-2011, 11:40 AM   #52
hallsofstone
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Very nice writeup! That should probably be copied into the Writeup section for all to make good use of. Should also be linked and stickied into the TJ FAQ section.

I'm into this project within the next month. Thankfully new pads and rotors came WITH my Jeep but not installed.
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Unread 09-09-2011, 04:32 PM   #53
Jeffro06
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Nice job. Glad the bleeder helped you out. I'll feel a lot better knowing you are able to stop, when we hit the Badlands in a couple of weeks, and you're behind me.
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Moab Trails I've done: Onion Creek, Long Canyon, Dome Plateau, Top of The World (2), Fins-N-Things (2), Poison Spider,
Golden Spike, Gold Bar Rim, Hell's Revenge (2), Baby Lion Back, Cliff Hanger, Moab Rim, Kane Creek Canyon, Strike Ravine

Shortcuts to key points in my build: MTRk's OME 2" HD Lift Antirock Skidrow steering box & radiator skids LoD rear bumper
Rokmen Mercenary bumper w/Superwinch Rokmen sliders Skidrow engine skid Rampage Top CB set up
Custom trunk Rokmen 1" Billet spacers JJ track bar Rokmen Adjustable Control Arms Currectlync Steering
Rokmen Trail Corners Metalcloak Overlines Kentrol Hood Latches JK Turn Signals Xenon 4" Flat Flares Hood Decal Duratracs
Derale Tranny Cooler DieHard Factor 55 Thimble Ten Factory Front Chromo Shafts

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Unread 09-10-2011, 09:56 AM   #54
shortstax33
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Thanks for the input, and yeah.... I'm gonna feel alot better being able to stop properly as well, lol.

Other bonus, after I finished up with the brakes, I started the TJ up, turned the wheel a bunch and laid under her looking for dripping. Found a nice big leak coming from the power steering pump. I pulled it, brought it to Autozone to use my warranty, popped in a new one, and it looks like no more drips! Woot!! Here's to a success!

Jeff I'll get your bleeder back to you Monday, unless you need it sooner, then I'll drive it out whenever you need it.
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Unread 09-10-2011, 10:21 AM   #55
Jeffro06
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Quote:
Originally Posted by shortstax33 View Post
Jeff I'll get your bleeder back to you Monday, unless you need it sooner, then I'll drive it out whenever you need it.
Monday is fine.
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My Old YJ Build My Mods My YouTube Channel

Moab Trails I've done: Onion Creek, Long Canyon, Dome Plateau, Top of The World (2), Fins-N-Things (2), Poison Spider,
Golden Spike, Gold Bar Rim, Hell's Revenge (2), Baby Lion Back, Cliff Hanger, Moab Rim, Kane Creek Canyon, Strike Ravine

Shortcuts to key points in my build: MTRk's OME 2" HD Lift Antirock Skidrow steering box & radiator skids LoD rear bumper
Rokmen Mercenary bumper w/Superwinch Rokmen sliders Skidrow engine skid Rampage Top CB set up
Custom trunk Rokmen 1" Billet spacers JJ track bar Rokmen Adjustable Control Arms Currectlync Steering
Rokmen Trail Corners Metalcloak Overlines Kentrol Hood Latches JK Turn Signals Xenon 4" Flat Flares Hood Decal Duratracs
Derale Tranny Cooler DieHard Factor 55 Thimble Ten Factory Front Chromo Shafts

Get your build sheet here.
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Unread 09-11-2011, 06:59 PM   #56
shortstax33
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Alrite, so I got to go wheeling again today. I'm REALLLLLLLY glad I didn't just go to the Badlands without going again. Yessiree sports fans, a bunch of other stuff broke again. And this time, FYI, I didn't do anything stupid. And I manage to resist the urge to play in the mud. My buddy not so much, lol, but I did not get TOO dirty.

On the plus side, explored alot more of the park, and tried some new things, learned a few others. First...avoid rocks without armor. I just looked at the rock pile...and imagined a boulder going through my TC...or my gas tank...or ANY of my steering gear. So the pile got avoided. At some point though, no idea when, my front driver side endlink snapped. Guess I'm just going to have to replace it with a disconnect.

On the plus side, I've discovered my jeep can ride 45 degrees on its side. and 45 degrees down. And up. I could take things more extremely if I just had a front stinger. * hint hint * Also realized parking on a 30 degree grade, without a parking brake, very difficult to work with. And before anyone says anything, yes, when I park, I leave it in gear with the engine off, but still. Anyways.

Well throughout the day we noticed a rattle from my engine bay. We looked, and it appeared my AC clutch was rattling. Didn't seem to be causing any other troubles, and the pulley seemed to be spinning free and without problems...and wasn't any making any noise itself, so we didn't worry about it. Until I tugged my buddy Chris's very mud stuck Cherokee. I heard some unusual sound, heard a squealing of my belt, and smoke billowing from the front end. I stopped pulling, and the horror went away. Of course... after a few minutes I noticed a ticking. Killed the engine, popped the hood. And found shredded pieces of my belt wrapped around my fan. After burning my hands a few times, I grabbed my gloves and my knife and cut the fan free. (Yup, I brought gloves, I'm starting to learn what actually to pack on these trips ) Oh well, I managed to successfully limp my jeep back to Dekalb, and it's now parked quietly in the garage.

JKS disconnects on order from EBAY. I'll pick up 2 new belts tomorrow (Yup, I'm getting a spare). Hopefully I can get the AC fixed Friday, and then I MAY go wheeling again on Sunday after my BBQ. I also found some trail scars on my driver side. Lost a fight with a tree on some narrow trails. I'm actually kind of proud of them. Not sure how I should patch them. Any suggestions? I'm thinking of just going the cheapo way and spraying black :P. I want to paint my jeep black at some point, not sure if I want to ghetto-fy my jeep with random black spots over the green...but I also don't want rust. Hmm...I'll be thinking about it.

But regardless, what everyone REALLY wants. Some random pics of the events!
Yup we're those guys.

A couple of fine looking vehicles, if I do say so.


A good place to park.


One of the more terrifying moments of my life.



My broken endlink, also a little bit of flex from that stupid ditch I got stuck in.

He was very stuck. You'll never see me do it again.

Mud flying, verrrrrry stuck.

My very shredded belt.


The old girl took a beating, note the KC lights.

A few battle scars.


My adventure continue. I'll keep the few who read this one posted.
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Unread 09-11-2011, 07:31 PM   #57
Jeffro06
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Leave the battle scars, you earned them.

Your buddy is nuts....screw that mud.
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Member of JGW (Jeff's Gone Wheeling) and IndyORV
My Old YJ Build My Mods My YouTube Channel

Moab Trails I've done: Onion Creek, Long Canyon, Dome Plateau, Top of The World (2), Fins-N-Things (2), Poison Spider,
Golden Spike, Gold Bar Rim, Hell's Revenge (2), Baby Lion Back, Cliff Hanger, Moab Rim, Kane Creek Canyon, Strike Ravine

Shortcuts to key points in my build: MTRk's OME 2" HD Lift Antirock Skidrow steering box & radiator skids LoD rear bumper
Rokmen Mercenary bumper w/Superwinch Rokmen sliders Skidrow engine skid Rampage Top CB set up
Custom trunk Rokmen 1" Billet spacers JJ track bar Rokmen Adjustable Control Arms Currectlync Steering
Rokmen Trail Corners Metalcloak Overlines Kentrol Hood Latches JK Turn Signals Xenon 4" Flat Flares Hood Decal Duratracs
Derale Tranny Cooler DieHard Factor 55 Thimble Ten Factory Front Chromo Shafts

Get your build sheet here.
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Unread 09-11-2011, 07:58 PM   #58
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nice to see you going through and taking care what needs to be addressed.
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Unread 09-12-2011, 08:49 PM   #59
shortstax33
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Alrite, went to autozone today, and picked up 2 new belts for the TJ. Really had to loosen up the idler pully to make the new one fit, but its in and good to go. The AC pulley/clutch, however, are all jacked up. After 2 hours of hunting around, no one sells just the AC pump. Napa sells an AC cancelling pulley, which means I lose my AC. Not the end of the world...but i like my ac. It is a cheap fix though until next spring when i have a bit more cash to spend the $200.00 for a whole knew AC compressor. Anyone have any thoughts about that one? the canceling pulley for $48.00 or just spend the money on the full replacement AC unit, plus installation, cus lets face it, I have no way of disconnecting freon lines and reconnecting them without poisoning my garage.
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Unread 09-13-2011, 06:52 AM   #60
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I'd actually suggest calling local JY's before you start taking that stuff off. See if you can find a used unit out of any of the vehicles that share that AC pump or a similar one. Your only other option is having a local shop drain your AC system safely THEN going home and removing it all and installing the cancelling pully. I work at a commercial truck dealership, so thankfully I can drain my rig pretty cheap. Same goes for charging the system. Sometimes shops will give you a good break on simple stuff like that.
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