[spyder6]

Originally Posted by thedirt

Yeah, the additional rotating mass and rolling resistance due to the wider tire will affect it. Comparing 25 psi to 40psi on my stock tires, there is a difference in the responsiveness, even if it is small.

What'd you think of the NV3550?

its very very smooth and quiet compared to the 6-speed. it feels flimsy though, where my 6-speed feels as solid as a rock. i dont really like the OD, but its manageable.

[JPcpa]

200 lbs of added rotating mass?! You mean each tire ways 50 more pounds? i need to read that again. That can't be right.

I missed something.

Spyder, thanks. I'm probably going to run 285/75s or 305/70s and not regear. With the 245s now I often skip 1/3/5 anyway, so a drop in revs would be fine, but 33s, not 35s is what I should do without a regrear.

Black... well I had a black G35 and said I'd never have another one. It was mever good enough. Tjs have so little paint, and I got great deal on a low mileage Rubi, I made an exception. When it is clean, black looks great. But my (other) daily driver pickup is silver.. Much better.

Thanks for this thread and the build specs. It is goin to help me a lot.

I've got a great Jeep gear mechanic that re-geared my last TJ, so I really should have him do the re-gear for 35s as well.

[spyder6]

200lbs was a guestamation from the 4 tires, spacers, TW driveshaft. i may have accidentally included the spare in the rotating mass. id say probably closer to 160 or 170 lbs rotating. which if memory serves me right according to someone's formula on here thats close to like 400 or 500 theoretical pounds?

[ekoms]

great build bud ! very informative. I like your rubi, but sorry I like mine more



keep up the good work !


ekoms.

[spyder6]

thanks! looking back i should have done the long arm kit like you, but i still have issues in the back of my mind about grinding off those factory control arm mounts.

if you wernt so far away id make you an offer on your half doors

[spyder6]

i did some work on the jeep today. i had intentions of jacking up the front end finding that something was wrong with my steering components or ball joints after 21k of driving to find that everything is solid as a rock and my ball joints are surprisingly bigger than i thought they were (looking up close at them)

after i found that there was no problems i put the fronts back on and torqued them down to 110ft-lbs and decided that i should probably put in the 3/4" spacers in the rear that i wanted to. now i know most of you are going to think this is a little odd because most people put spacers up front for spring sag. i dont know if my coils are and HD set or what but they didnt compress AT ALL when i put the 100lb winch on, and my rear springs are the ones that settled! with my hard top on, full tank of gas, 120lbs of spare hanging off the back and my *** in the driver seat my jeep sat perfectly level.

i didnt really like this because if i loaded anything in the back it seemed like the front end was a little bit higher than the rear but i couldnt quite place it. also, stock it had a slight rake which according to my engineering buddies helps lessen the brute force air resistance. plus it just looked a little silly IMO... so a couple months back i placed an order with RedRock4x4 again for some RE .75" coil spring spacers. i never had a chance to do it till today, and im quite pleased with the results!

i did find out however, realizing that i had to remove my shock bolts to let the axle droop out far enough, that my shocks are not long enough. i was able to get atleast another 4-5 inches of additional droop before my springs started unseating from the perches. im very disappointed with that. some Bilstein or Fox shocks will be in order next spring to fix this.

none-the-less

[GDTIME]

Love the jeep! Have close to the same taste in build. As for the F word, I don't think that could ever happen....

[black2door]

Beautiful Jeep man.

[spyder6]

just shocks - i cant afford 4 coil-overs plus modding the axles and getting rid of the factory shock/spring towers. plus i dont want to notch the frame for the coil-over towers.

i do want to build a shock crossmember for the front though, i feel like the front shock/spring towers arnt strong enough.

[spyder6]

if i was going to pick up 4 coilovers and do all that, id have D60's by now

[spyder6]

i dont think i'll go past 37's. i dont want to comp cut

[Camo Deere]

It looks so awesome.

[JPcpa]

Is it possible to get rear shocks that allow more droop? The shock looks like the can is bottomed out under compression, but the bump stops are not even close to touching.

How does it drive with the added lift on the short arms? The angle of the Rear CAs looks steep.

[spyder6]

Originally Posted by JPcpa

Is it possible to get rear shocks that allow more droop? The shock looks like the can is bottomed out under compression, but the bump stops are not even close to touching.

How does it drive with the added lift on the short arms? The angle of the Rear CAs looks steep.

i have about a 2/3" of shock left before they bottom out when the bump stops are touching. the ride is good, its not perfect but i would compare it to stock.

[spyder6]

i think ive determined today that my shaking HAS to be coming from the spacers. because when i torqued the wheels down to 110ft-lbs the range that she shaking was at changed slightly i could tell. so im going to pull my front spacers and rear spacers off on monday when i get back into town and re-seat them at 115ft-lbs with red locktite instead of blue.

EDIT:

on my way to Louisville for the weekend i was in heavy traffic and had to slam on my brakes. i got some serious death wobble - i dont think my steering geometry is correct.