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Old 06-23-2009, 10:02 PM   #16
aaronc88
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Thanks for the compliments.

I have been working on finishing plumbing the airlines after school and work. Finally finished all the airlines. now to get to work on a little bit of wiring and the arb should be ready to go. Now I only have to get out wheeling before I have to go back to school.







Note for carier bearing cap/race for arb dana 30 RD100
Timken # 102910
National # LM102910

Arb blue airline = 5mm OD

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Old 06-24-2009, 09:42 PM   #17
aaronc88
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Started and finished wiring up the ARB air solenoid and all is working well. But now I need a bigger fuse block and I need to get out wheeling so I can really test this ARB out.
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Old 06-25-2009, 10:37 AM   #18
Dylan11
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Looks really good. Huge transformation. I like the Spare mount you made, I'll be making a similar one once school starts up again. (that way the metal is all free for a "school project")
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Old 06-25-2009, 09:40 PM   #19
aaronc88
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Dylan11 View Post
Looks really good. Huge transformation. I like the Spare mount you made, I'll be making a similar one once school starts up again. (that way the metal is all free for a "school project")
cant beat that


Plus u may get to work on it at school too!
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Old 06-28-2009, 05:07 PM   #20
aaronc88
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Well haven't had much time to work on anything since Wednesday but got a few hours of work in and finished grinding and tacking in my roll-cage extension. And picked up some spicer 5-297 joints for $30 each and some 5-153's for $14 each.






Now I just have to take it off and weld it all up and paint it.

Note* all the small tubing in the coll cage is 1 3/8" x 3/16 wall DOM tubing
Percision part # 534-10 u-bolts for u joint

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Old 06-29-2009, 09:06 PM   #21
tk987
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Nice work.
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Old 07-01-2009, 08:04 PM   #22
aaronc88
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Today I made a new sway bar disconnect. The old one used 1/4" pins ended up getting bent. So I ordered some new 3/8" stainless pins from mcmaster carr. I also made new links out of some aluminum pipe.



Next I made a quick Disconnect flag mount. Took a 7/16" drill bit and a 1/4NPT tap to the front bumper and I used a 1/2-13 tap for the Female disconnect fitting that the flag goes into.





Also got some greasing in today

Which one you want?


Also don't forget to grease you CV joint if you have a Double Cardan Driveshaft
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Old 07-02-2009, 11:11 PM   #23
Jeffro06
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It's about time you got your own build thread! I see some stuff that I'm coming after when you go back to school...
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Old 07-02-2009, 11:34 PM   #24
teejmcd
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nice flag mount! and u made fun of me
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Old 07-03-2009, 03:03 PM   #25
aaronc88
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Jeffro95 View Post
It's about time you got your own build thread! I see some stuff that I'm coming after when you go back to school...
You may have to come out to Colorado to come and get it. And this is my garage thread so it's mostly my jeep but also a couple other peoples jeeps every once in a while.
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Old 07-03-2009, 03:16 PM   #26
Jeffro06
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You may have to come out to Colorado to come and get it. And this is my garage thread so it's mostly my jeep but also a couple other peoples jeeps every once in a while.
I've got a buddy out there so you better beware! That front ARB is looking pretty tempting.

Who knows maybe my jeep will end up in your "Garage Thread" someday...
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Old 07-03-2009, 04:57 PM   #27
aaronc88
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Well I had the day off of work today so I got a few things done so far today.
I woke up bright and early and got to work on my roll cage. All the tubes had previously been tacked and just needed to be fully welded.
So I put some temp. braces (pieces of angle iron) from tube to tube to help keep the tubes in position while welding all the joints.



Reminds me of the military Jeeps.







For now I just sandwiched the floor with 2 1/4" plates until I get my frame tie-ins designed and made.





The cage seemed to stay in place pretty well while welding the joints. All the tacks and bracing were worth the time, instead of trying to fiddle around with it to make it fit If and of the tubes moved while welding.
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Old 07-03-2009, 09:09 PM   #28
aaronc88
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Well I got a bit more done today. Started to do a little bit of rust repair.
The tailgate had a little spot that was all the way through.



No bondo will properly fix that.
Have to cut it out and put some new metal in there. So I ran down to work and bent up a piece of Chanel.







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Old 07-04-2009, 11:42 PM   #29
aaronc88
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Got a bit of work done on the Dana 30 axle with 4:10's for Teejmcd's 94yj. Took out the axleshafts and then knuckles, also pulled the carrier and changed the axle shaft seals. Wile we were changing the driver side seal we also installed the seal to allow for a one piece Cherokee shaft to be installed.



Lockright locker already came installed from previous owner.



The inside of the axle tube. This seal fits in without any grinding of a seal boss, unlike the seals that some people use to do this conversion.






(yes that is an 8.8 cover) just using it to keep out the dust.

I also got to start working on my rear speaker boxes to fit some 6x9 speakers I have laying around.



72 1/2" holes later and a coat of clear. I also added some rubber inside on the sides and bottom of the box. May not be the best sounding jeep out here but still sounds pretty good. I only got one done today, I'll have to work on the other side later.



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Old 07-06-2009, 08:59 PM   #30
aaronc88
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Well sparkys garage hit the road yesterday and made it to the Cliffs Insane Terrain Off road park. One of the jeeps in my group an 88yj popped of a u-joint cap off the D30 driver side axle shaft. The ears on the inner shaft got oblonged and scared up pretty bad so I had an extra axleshaft that we changed and then got back on the trail. Since I didn't have my 3 jaw puller with me I just hit the axleshaft ears to pop off the wheel bearing hub from the steering knuckle.







It also ends up that he broke a rear axle shaft in the 35 but since it is an 88 and does not have c-clips and it has a lockright in it he didn't notice it till he got back home.

I also had a little bit of damage that i discovered when I got home. Turns out my rear Drive shaft u-joint front position. It had a bit of play in it so I dropped the shaft and changed out the joint. Turns out the needles got disintegrated and started to wear down the joint, also not that the bearing caps were pretty brittle as that when I was pressing the caps out one of them cracked with only a bit of pressure applied.






Wheeling pics http://s175.photobucket.com/albums/w122/aaronc88/cliffs%207-5-09/
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