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Go Back JeepForum.com > General Jeep Forums > Jeep Builds > Shoeshine Boy a mild mannered TJ build

Building a Bumper?Ruffstuff Axle Simple Swap Kit!~Artec JK 1 TON SWAP~

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Unread 12-18-2011, 04:37 PM   #106
balzer
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2001 TJ Wrangler 
 
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There have been literally NO changes to the jeep for a long time in fact I havent even really got out to wheel much.

North Dakota trips ate up 2 rear u joints GOTTA FIX DRIVELINE ANGLES

2.5l+3.73 gears +automatic+31" tires= I almost hate to drive........ anywhere.

I HAVE A PLAN!

Drive train: 4.3L GM V6 built to around 300HP, 700R4 or 4L60E, GM NP231 with the shortest SYE I can get.

suspention: savvy alum control arms all around, better shocks (and possibly new springs)

Axles: Now this is where I need opinions comments and info. I have a 1983 narrow track FSJ cherokee it has a (real) D44 front and an AMC20 rear and are very close to the same width. I figure they are good canidates and would cost near the same as any axle swap. What does everyone think about the AMC20?

Any other sugestions comment flamming whatever is welcome LMFAO

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Unread 04-25-2012, 06:46 PM   #107
balzer
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Well still havent done anything to my jeep in fact the last few months I have let my mom drive it and have been driving my 94 chevy 1500.

However now I have some issues with drivability. I NEVER get a CEL and it never has codes but using a scanner while driving it shows my emissions in the red and recomends cataletic converter, O2 sensor, evap system and O2 heater.

What it does is Falls flat on its face and has NO power sometimes, sometimes it dies at a stop sign or traffic light and takes a long time to start after it dies, sometimes while driving it will drop RPM very noticably then it comes back and sometimes it will fluctuate enough to make it downshift and upshift several times.

With the scanner all I can get is emissions status. It says IPT (in use performance test) is not supported.
And again IT NEVER has a code or turns on the CEL.

So do I just start throwing money at the CC,O2 and evap and hope it fixes it? or what do I do? Im almost wondering if the whole computer is bad since it never shows a code or CEL?

Any advice would be greatly appreciated.
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Unread 06-17-2012, 10:16 AM   #108
balzer
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Dont think anyone is watching this thread anymore but...

I sold my hard doors and got a bestop trektop NX and bestop 2 piece soft doors.

I traded the bushwacker fender flares for a new set of crownstock style replacement fender flares.

I have aquired an extra D35 for the axle shafts, and I have a powertrax luchbox locker to install.

I have a 4.3L V6 from a 96 fullsize pickup that I will rebuild.

Still havent solved the drivability issues, it comes and goes.
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Unread 06-17-2012, 10:42 AM   #109
midnight_f150
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Quote:
Originally Posted by balzer View Post
I have a 4.3L V6 from a 96 fullsize pickup that I will rebuild.
What plans do you have for this 4.3L? I alway thought a 4.3L vortec would be a great swap for Jeep.
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Unread 06-17-2012, 01:18 PM   #110
balzer
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I will probably bore it out 60 over bump the compression up from 9.2 to around 9.75-10 and comp cams has a nice cam thats computer compatable.
I will keep the vortec injection, There are several small things that can be done to the induction, then have the computer tuned for the changes. This should bump the HP from the stock 200HP up to around 250-275HP. I would love to bump it up to around 300HP however I want to be able to run premium gas and I dont think it will support much more compression.
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Unread 06-25-2012, 11:41 AM   #111
djflyy
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Saw in another thread that you had an external temp gauge in your dashboard. Any info on that?
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bmosing View Post
Cleaning this thing up is similar to a slightly abused pornstar throwing on a bunch of makeup to try to hide her eternal scars, but I think she doesn't look too bad
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Unread 06-25-2012, 01:43 PM   #112
balzer
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I think your refering to my kenworth semi dash it comes in most kenworths. I dont have one in my jeep though. I would imagine you could get one out of a semi if you have a semi salvage yard near you though.
sorry
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Unread 09-20-2012, 07:02 PM   #113
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I dont know if anyone still checks this thread. Being my only vehicle, its become VERY hard to do anything to the jeep.

However today I bought a 99 XJ it has a 8.25 rear and a HPD30 auto and a bad 4.0. I know I want the HPD30 front need to do some checking and see if the rear 8.25 is any better than my D35. I thought maybe for the time being I could swap the 4.0L throttle body on my 2.5 and get rid of my mechanical fan to get all the poop I can out of the 4 cyl.

I think I will build the axles and have them ready to swap in so my wrangler isnt down. I need to start aquiring parts for the 4.3L GM V6 and the axles now. I also need to round up a GM 4L60E trans and a NP231c. I need adjustable CA's and a SYE still as well.

In other news I havent really done much of anything to the jeep. Recently the cat. converter started getting REALY hot! So hot it melted the carpet! So I had to fix that and the muffler was rattling inside so it got replaced with a cherry bomb glasspack (cheap fix for now) while I was at it I wrapped the exhaust to try to keep a little cooler inside the tub. I have the interior gutted for the most part I had planned on putting in some sort of bed liner but money and time have been short, so that hasnt happened either.

Craptastic update but it is what it is.
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Unread 09-20-2012, 07:10 PM   #114
midnight_f150
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Still watching and waiting to see how the 4.3L swap goes. Guy in my club is about done with a 3.8L swap in his samurai on portal axles.
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Unread 09-28-2012, 12:24 AM   #115
balzer
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Been doing some research on the 4.3L I actually have 2 of them the 96 mentioned above and a 90 or 91.
So it seams the cheapest and more prefered build would be to use the older non ballance shaft bottom end. This allows me to use regular small block parts like pistons & timing set, and a much cheaper cam and no money spent on the balnce shaft. This cuts the cost by a several $100. That savings might be spent on bumping the compression with new pistons.
Then use the 96 heads and induction this gives me the best top end.

It also appears 250-275HP is fairly easy to achieve by going this route. That would be FANTASTIC! That power from the much lighter 4.3L (compared to the boat anchor jeep 4.0L) with the 4L60 (overdrive) and I am thinking 4.56 rears and 34ish tall tires on the HPD30 and the CH8.25 and I should have a pretty great setup. I should have plenty of power without being destructive, and everything should live happily together.

I have also learned that the NP231C should have stronger internals, more gears on the planitary, wider chain and something else I am forgetting right now. Plus the rear half should interchange.

Man this build sounds huge for me, I dont mean a big jeep just a lot to do and a chunk of money.
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