Ok so Shoeshine boy takes another step to becoming Underdog!
Got my front drive shaft (rebuilt), UCF ULTRA high clearance skid plate in 1/4" aluminum, And a 1" transfer case drop spacers (also from UCF), a JKS 1" motor mount lift and a 1" performance accessories body lift.
I have the drive shaft, skid plate, TC drop and MML installed, and only have a slight vibration when I first take off until about 15mph. So next on the list will be SYE and adjustable control arms for the rear. My plans are for novac super short SYE and currie arms and tom woods drive shaft.
Now some of you might ask why I got transfer case drop spacers. Thats because I figured I could get away with this set up until I can get the 3 above mentioned mods then remove them.
The tummy tuck actually put my fan into the radiator shroud, the MML then fixed that. Currently the body lift isn't needed because everything clears. So I think I may save that until future mods require it.
NOTE TO WHOM IT MAY CONCERN! Doing a MML in a muddy gravel driveway on a muddy jeep IS NOT fun. Also the instructions said because I have AC I would have to remove the engine side of the motor mount in order to get the cross bolt out. Well that sounds good however when you cannot remove the cross bolt to remove the actual motor mount then you CANNOT get to the 4th bolt holding the engine side to the block! Therefore I basically had to lift the engine as high as possible and really wrastle that sucker to get the job done. FORTUNATELY the instructions said I would have to trim the stud on the motor mount and that was not necessary as the bolt extensions tightened up properly before bottoming out.
In the end I got the job done. It was a real pain to get the pass side done but I managed by tricky maneuvering and a lot of foul language.
Thanks, The spacers are great, they have full contact and then ends are ramped to slide over stuff rather than snag. They are well built and way better than anything I have seen out there. Much better than hockey pucks or stacked washers. Matt said the UHC+spacers are the same as the no body lift skid. A perfect temporary solution for me anyway. They should work with the stock skid so maybe when Im done with them I can sell them to someone else that needs them.
My friend came by today and he has the jeep bug. He wants to modify but right now he cant afford to do much so he said "lets throw your body lift on". So we did, easy as could be. Not much of an update but hey its progress right? We did find some bad spots in my serpentine belt, while doing the fan shroud, so I will replace that tomorrow.
Just some pics of our jeeps together he just washed his today I need to wash mine lol
Not really an update, more of a moment of clarity.
Up until now I have had this delusion that I would upgrade my d35 with superior kit and ARB and blah blah blah. Then I realized that this isnt going to be the cheap way to go since I have not ever done gears, lockers and such.
Same goes for the front d30 I just dont think I can do the labor in my gravel driveway with basic hand tools.
With that in mind the labor would shoot my plans up into complete bolt in axle prices. Add in the fact that I would probably have to go at least 3 hours away to find a competent shop.
So Now I'm on the hunt for cheap bolt in axle assemblies. So far I think a 8.8 ford and a hi pinion d30 will be closer to my budget. And perhaps I should quit dreaming about selectable lockers and just go with auto lockers.
Also on the delema side of things I am seriously considering an engine swap. Most likely a GM 4.3 V6 and IF I go that route I will just use engine trans and x-case from a S10 vehicle. SOOOOO with that in mind it would be pointless to order a jeep 231SYE, when I plan on using a GM231. So far I have been unable to verify if the 231's are the same on the back half of the case. If they are the same, it wouldn't be a problem at all, but I don't want to spend the money twice.
All this came about day before yesterday while playing in the mud. Open diffs 3.73 gears and 31" tires in low range and it was bogging my engine down considerably. Im sure if I would have had lockers it would have bogged down to nothing.
Like I mentioned above I dont want to spend money more than once so doing gears and lockers at separate times then upgrading shafts would be 3 times the labor.
Might as well save up for better bolt in axles already geared and locked. Looking at EAST COAST GEAR looks to be my best bet.
I'm liking the build so far, keep up the great work! Nice job with that UCF skid, that's one of the many mods I'll be planning to do soon. I have to say that I am completely jealous of your location and would give anything to drive 20 mins and be in offroad heaven! Especially the pic you took of this creek bed...
I read through your thread and saw you asking about good quality lifts, if you don't mind I can give you a few suggestions. In the 3-4" category there are a ton of options, to narrow it down here's a few I would strongly recommend...
- AEV 3"
- BDS 3"
- Zone 3"
- OME 2.5"
- Rough Country custom 3.25"
RC gets a bad rap from people due to some of the issues they ran into when launching their new kits over a year ago, but many of these issues have been corrected. The only issue that I know of that is still current is their 2.5" front coils are "too soft" and do not have a strong enough coil rate to properly hold up the front end 2.5". People have also noticed this issue with the AEV coils. It's due to the "progressive style" ratings which offer a longer softer coil, vs shorter and stiffer. Any additional weight (winch, bumpers, ect) will effect the ride height more then it would for a stronger style coil.
The best fix to this is to ask for their 4" front coils to replace the front 2.5" coils when purchasing the kit. The 4" coils are the exact same length as the 2.5s but much stronger. This will give you about 3.5" of total lift for the cheapest cost. I run RC suspension products as well as Imped (Conner) and we both love their coils and have no problems at all... and we wheel the piss out of them. Not the "best" out there but by far not bad quality either
Whichever company you decide to go with, I would only buy their coils and shocks and buy rockmen or Currie upper and lower CAs with JJs. Keep it up!
I think when the time comes I will probably upgrade to OME 2.5" coils and shocks.
And I REALLY want MCE ABS flat fenders, the new 3.5" flare looks awesome. I think here in Utah I may have to go with the 6" versions but I might just risk it and get the 3.5"s The bush wackers look good but I dont really like them so they will be replaced sometime soon. With the MCE's I'm not real sure what to run on the rears though, maybe a set of stock rubicon flares to help keep the rears covered for Johny Law.
Thanks for lookin in on my humble build thread.
By the way that pic is of the Uinta River, its a small river fed by natural springs and snow melt. It aint but 10 minute drive north west of me. There are a few campsites along its path but the good ones are on tribal land, which aint no big deal yearly tribal camp permit is cheap.
It's great to see someone with so much passion for jeeps... it rekindles it for some of us that have been around for a while and it's great to see.
The MCE fenders are an awesome choice. I've known Mike since they launched the company and he got me interested from the get go. I think a nicely trimmed set of rear rubicon fenders would look good to match. I trimmed my rear flares w/ an angle cut design.
Thanks, All my favorite vehicles have been the jeeps I have owned.
My jeep history
-1985 cherokee 2.8v6 5 speed all stock
-1991 comanchee 4.0 5 speed 2WD 265x50x15's alloy wheels hard bed cover
-1985 grand wagoneer AMC built 403 V8, 727 quadratrac 3" body lift 33x9.50x15 on GM rally wheels, cut fenders lots of broken engine and trans mounts
And currently I have my 2001 TJ, a 1971 J4800 gladiator pickup, and a 1983 fullsize cherokee for parts.
I have had a few others as well but not anything to mention they was either parts or basket cases not road worthy.
Your rear flares look good but I will most likely not trim or at least a less aggressive cut. Utah has fender flare and mud flap laws that I have to at least try to stay within.
Right now I have 3"-3.5" total lift and only 31's LMAO so it may look a little silly with nice big open fender flares but I will stay with 31's until I can regear. I have the 2.5L auto trans and 3.73 gears and it kinda sucks. At the start of this build, I said I would stay small but I already want 35's some day. Maybe after a regear and an engine swap LMAO!
2001 TJ SE
1971 J4800 gladiator
Yesterday a guy was here buying some old cars from my dad and brother. The guy with him who had the trailer offered me $500 for my Ramsey 8k winch, so today I pulled it off for him. AFTER using it to pull both cars on the trailer
I will use that money to fix a warn XD9000i that I have. It needs the side support because one of the bolt feet is broke. the part a gasket and shipping came to $101. I am also switching to viking synthetic 100'x 3/8 in black or grey with the safety thimble and a alum. hawse flairlead. I will also modify my front bumper to eliminate the need for a winch plate.
The ramsey was fine really, but it was slow and had a LOT of amp draw compared to a warn. According to my research the warn will be around 3FPM faster and have 150-200 less amp draw, so I think I will have a lot better winch when all is said and done. And, lets call it what it is, its comparing a $550 winch to a $1200 winch.
Before anyone asks no I dont feel guilty for selling a used winch for just slightly less than a new one. #1 he made the offer and #2 I just had the winch reconditioned it was cleaned up and new solenoids put in. And #3 it was in perfect working order and he got the winch plate as well.
I will document the repair/reconditioning of the winch here in this thread for anyone thats interested.
2001 TJ SE
1971 J4800 gladiator
OK so today I started the tear down of the warn XD9000i. I also ordered more parts, all the thermoplastic bushings, seals, grommet, gaskets, decals, and even the warn emblem.
I also took the motor down to the local alternator/starter/elec. motor re-builder and had them refresh and clean it up inside. They charged me $30 to clean it out remove any rust off the contacts and reapply dielectric grease where needed. They said it looked great in side there and all they replaced was 1 bolt that was rusty.
So pictures lol are uploading now. I took a bunch both for you viewers and my own knowledge to reassemble if I get stumped (but its pretty simple and straight forward) I will post pictures tomorrow.
As of right now I have spent.
$140 in parts from warn (some where not necessary but I wanted them such as original decals)
$30 to have the motor refreshed
approx $40 on paint sand paper, lith grease, degreaser, ect. (total at napa was $74 but I bought other stuff)
The good men at "Dont fear the jeeper" quoted me $390 for a hawse fairlead and 100' of 3/8" viking synthetic with saftey thimble.
So I will be over the $500 budget by a bit but I should have a practically new and great looking winch that would cost well over $1500 to order new.
I will still need to modify my bumper so that will add to the cost a bit.
I choose white lithium grease for its obvious qualities. I also chose a real nice graphite grey metallic paint, its not warn grey but should look real nice.
The hard parts inside the winch are in great shape the plastic bushings where a bit worn and will be replaced. The grease was thick and nasty, anyone who has ever torn down and old engine full of sludge, will know what it smelled like, except replace the gasoline part of the smell with swamp mud smell.
Thanks for looking, till next time!
2001 TJ SE
1971 J4800 gladiator
Begin by taking the set screw out of the clutch lever and removing the clutch lever.
Next remove the 10 allen bolts holding the the outer half of the planetary housing.
This opens it up to the stage 1 and stage 2 planetary's here is where its important to pay attention how things go together Its pretty simple though jut remember the further in you go the progressively bigger the parts get. Right here where the 2 parts come together is where the plastic thrust bearing is located. right between stage 2 and stage 3 gear sets.
Heres the wax like sludge that mine had inside. This stuff smelled bad!
Here is stage 1 and 2 pulled apart. You can see stage 1 is the smallest gear set. Theres actually a small gear on the end of the shaft that has the piolet shaft on one end and a geared part that goes in the middle of the stage 1 planetary. Both stage 1 and 2 slide into the clutch collar. (thats the smooth outer geared inner part in the pic).
Here is all 3 stages lined up the way they go together note the grey skinny ring towards the left side, thats the plastic thrust bearing.
Here is looking into what I will call, the base gear housing (it is not labeled in a parts diagram). This ring is what all the torque of the winch is applied to. it is bolted to the drum support on the gear train side. also note the shaft sticking out of the drum, not very big is it.
Next we pull apart the bridge, This is essentially the main thing holding the motor and gear train sides to the drum. Its actually kinda funny how weak these "seam" to be assembled, but It works. Here are the 3 allen bolts holding the solenoid bridge to the 2 drum supports(sides).
here is where you have to take the remote outlet out and disconnect the wires. the white wire goes to the main positive cable the grey and black go to the solenoids.
OK so This is the offending broken part this is the gear train side drum support. There was an attempt to weld this and repair it but as you can see it didnt work. there was extra metal melted into the hole
And this pic here is where you say to yourself. Self, you really should at least have a tuff shed with a work bench or something..... Yes I am doing this all on my living room floor!
After that I cleaned up and sorted parts in boxes. I then took the motor down to be refreshed inside and bought some parts cleaner, paint ect.
I came home and cleaned all the parts (also in my living room) and that is where I am at so far. All I have to do now is sand down all the exterior and prep for paint then its the waiting game for parts to show up.
Thanks for looking! Till next time.
2001 TJ SE
1971 J4800 gladiator