you just helped me solve how i am going to mount my front bumper when i fabricate it.
I recommend you find someone with a large drill press and vise capable of holding it if you choose to drill through, I can see the holes getting crooked otherwise. The bolt heads look ok to me, might replace them with stainless after the bumper is painted.
i have a drill press capable with a mill vise on it. i will probably modify the design but i like the concept. i'm just saying i like the design and will probably use the welded frame mounted plate as a mounting surface. i may not use the bolt through the bumper idea, the rest of the idea i like a lot more than relying on only the frame mounted captives for support. now that i think about it i will probably use them along with the front mounted plate for mounting the bumper.
Ratmonkey donation page. all proceeds will go to his family.
it's not much to look at... but it's mine.
5.2lswap, metalcloaks, bedliner, tucked belly, d60's, soon to be nv4500 and d300.
Since both pairs of fenders that came with the jeep were rotten, and I needed extra coverage because of PA's fender laws, I decided on tube fenders. Unfortunately I don't have a tube bender yet or I would have bent them myself, but I went with Trailtubes.com.
Their larger kit (actually two kits - one rear and one front) comes with enough extra to just about cover probably 15" wide tires, but with the d-window rims and 33x12.5 tires I'm running it wasn't needed. On the front I started with making plates to weld tubes to that bolt to the grille and tub. Neither was wide enough as shown in the picture but the front is the only one yet that was widened to better fit. I'm probably going to relocate one of those holes at the top as it's in the way of the tube.
With the extra tube on each end I kinda eyeballed it to the width of fender I thought was big enough for the law and no bigger. I started with the tub to grille tube that follows the hood edge, took a few tacks before I got it where I wanted... only had two hands. Then the rest went together a bit better with assistance from Dad.
Since this kit from trail tubes doesn't include inner fenders, and I didn't feel like making those too, I did some surgery on the stock fenders. With a cutting wheel on a grinder it was incredibly simple to cut the inner fenders out and they fit the first or second try. From there I had to make a patch on the drivers inner fender, then I tacked them both in. The seams were both welded 100% with stacked tacks. There's still more trimming to do on the lower rear corner but that can wait until I'm closer to paint.
Once I had the fronts tacked good and solid I pulled them off and started on the back. These are being welded to the smittybilt full corner wraps. The corner wraps come with some black crinkle coating on them that was easily removed with chemical stripper and a razor scraper. To cut these tubes off to length I used a square to find what I needed for coverage, then laid the tubes with the outer edge down on a flat table, marking with a ruler measuring off that table at the dimension I needed on the ends to be cut. When they were cut the ends came out nice and flat to the fender wrap surface with it all nice and square. Since the tube extends down on the front end a little further, I had to come up with something to connect the front without welding it to the rocker plate. I'd like to be able to remove the corner wrap/fenders without removing the rocker plates and vice-versa. I tacked both ends, then fit and tacked the stand-out tubes, then ground out and broke the tacks holding it to the rocker plate. The area between the end on the rocker plate and the standout above it will be left open for a step. I'm either going to cut the part by the rocker plate back 1/4" and leave it open or cut it back and have it slide over and pin to a smaller tube attached welded to the rocker plate so I can un-pin it to remove them... not sure yet.
Once all the tacking was done I pulled them off and welded each fender. They still don't have any sheetmetal, as I've been unable to get to it, but they're getting there. Once the skin is on they'll be blasted to put a good surface profile on, then por15 and some more rustoleum black.
Nice. I like Trail Tubes' stuff. Did you just drive down and pick them up? They can't be more than 45 minutes from you.
87YJ 5.2/46RH/NP231 D44/9in 4.56 4 link rear, radius arm front
My Build http://www.jeepforum.com/forum/f22/daddyjeep-121-day-87-yj-5-2-lcg-4-link-build-1479204/
Start planning for 2014, updated site http://www.bantamjeepfestival.com/
Her first time off road. She could of just took on the yard but NO she had to tackle the ditch. Just a sign of things to come when she all grown up. LOL! Nice build sir. Did you just let the axle tubes on the 8.8 air cool or did you put a blanket on them. Gonna burn mine in too, but was wondering what you did.
When I welded the axle tubes I preheated to probably 200*, put good tacks on in case it wanted to move, and had someone roll it slowly as I welded. I had sandblasted it prior to doing all this so it as nice and clean. I just let it air cool. I've seen the threads around here where people are using special alloy filler metals and all kinds of stuff... er70s-6(might have been -3) with 75/25 gas making a 1/4" fillet is good enough for me.
I just pulled together some figures on what needs completed before it's ready to run roads and go to Bantam.
- finish running brake lines
- purchase/install new soft top frame & hardware with the top I already have
- replace rear view mirror
- replace homemade sway bar disconnects with something more stout
- build, mount, paint rear bumper & cap open ends on rear crossmember
- finish tube fenders - sheet metal skins, blast, paint
- finish rocker plates - blast & paint
- reinstall wiring including hooking up new deck and speakers/pods
- paint front bumper
- purchase clevises (d-rings, shackles, whatever you want to call them)
- install 95 d30 shafts with larger and new u-joints
This is what looks to me like the minimum at this point.. should cost under $800 in parts and materials. To do the rest (lockers, oba, winch, raingler nets, new tires, etc) it's going to take more money that is going to have to wait.
In the little time I had to work on stuff this weekend I cut posterboard templates for my tube fender skins. They will be dropped off at a local steel supplier/ fab shop to assist with ordering the right amount of steel, or I may have them just make the cuts for me if the price is right. I suppose a little progress is better than none.
True that. I got quite a bit done on mine since we got above freezing this weekend for the first time in ages. love the fenders. too bad PA has that law though they would look even better tucked in a bit
So in the last week I've ordered my new soft top frame and hardware set. I went with a rugged ridge kit from CSE Offroad, they had about the best price and free shipping. I've gotten a decent amount of parts from these guys, always fair prices and great customer service.
I also finally got in touch with the shop that has my templates for the fender skins. It's gonna cost me $120 for a sheet to cut the front skins from and a strip 6 1/2" wide cut into pieces for the back fenders. They weren't interested in cutting the front because of the irregular shapes, they would have had alot of time into the setup and quoted me twice the cost of the option I went with.
The decision has also been made to get TJ shafts and a Lokka Locker (aussie) for the front. I'll probably order the locker next pay so it's ready when I have time to install it.
When I was making the previous updates I was on a fabrication kick so I went and showed the bumper, rocker, and tube fender stuff in a row. Here's the rest of what went on with the rear end.
To start with I procured a used XJ shaft from Simpson Family Jeeps, then took it to Point Spring in Meadville. I had it shortened and three new u-joints put in for about $110. I'll have to clean and paint it sometime but it came out nice, their driveshaft guy has skills.
Before doing the driveshaft I had to get the transfer case on, while the tub was off (again) I installed and filled it. I'm going from memory here but the tub was on and off a couple times that night between fitting, installing stuff, and whatever else. After I had the driveshaft ready I set the tub on, filled it with fenders, tools, and whatever weight I could find. I adjusted the pinion angle to a little below the tc yoke then welded the perches after getting the axle as close to center as I was satisfied with.
I had made my own rear shock mounts from square tube. I had Dad mill the radius if the axle tube into it and did the rest of the cutting and drilling. The tube was 1/4" wall... very stout. I welded those on, then went and made a couple little welds connecting the splitter block on the dakota (I think) soft line from the frame down to the axle. The exhaust was fit back on with the tub in position. I tacked it in place after I reinstalled the heat shields which had been blasted and painted with high-temp paint (some caliper paint, some grill paint).
Once everything was tacked on the exhaust I pulled the tub again and welded it around. I just kept the front end of the exhaust it came with for now, but the muffler and tailpipe were needed so I can get it on the road. Once I do the Mercedes diesel swap it will all be replaced.
As seen, once all the welding and bolting was done I went about putting a couple coats of rustoleum black on anything that needed it including the perches, shock mounts, new crossmember, gas tank mounts, and backing plates.
I also ran brake and fuel lines while I was at it, and with this being mostly done in one night the brakes were last. I'll probably end up replacing them because my double-flares have issues. We'll see if they hold or leak when I have the rest of the brakes put back on. I still need to do the front and install the booster.
This morning, after receiving a crushing defeat at the hand of J.C. Whitney and their out of stock $377 ARB lockers, I decided to order some other parts.. NOT from J.C. Whitney. The rollbar padding, shift knob, sway bar disconnects, front aussie locker, and LED's for the front and rear are on the way. I'll have plenty to do for a good while.