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Unread 05-27-2011, 09:59 PM   #1
Saber
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1992 XJ Cherokee 
 
Join Date: Oct 2009
Location: Spanish Fork, Utah
Posts: 62
Saber's Tranformation build 91 YJ

Been lurking for some time now and thought I would share my build that has been in progress for the last 7 months. I am on a budget and also have to build this in my backyard, so money and the weather are huge factors in this build. What started out as a 2.5L to 4.0L swap has turned out to be a full blown transformation build.
It started when i purchased a 87 Cherokee for $300 just for the motor, I purchased it sight unseen and had my father trailer it up to me. I soon discovered it had a now broken 700R4(with all the adapters) and a D44 in the rear. Ecxited about the D44 I did some searching and found a SOA D30 with 4.88's,lockrite and high steer adapter for $200.
Now it has turned into a SOA build as well.
I traded the broken trans and the adapters for a AW4, set of stock springs and a frame with factory 4.0L mounts. I parted out the rest of the cherokee for a total of $400.
For this build I felt that the seperated frame was needed for all that is being done to the YJ with minimal downtime. I wire brushed the frame and used Rustoleum bed liner spray on it, then placed the Motor/Trans/Transfer case in its new home with a refurbished 4.0 head and all new gaskets. Visited the local Pick a Part for a 4.0 intake and fuel rail.
The D44 has been fitted with 4.88's and Auburn limited slip(no laughs please this will eventually be changed out for a OX locker).
That is all for now if weather permits my brother in law will bring over a backhoe to swap the tub to the new frame in the morning. photos coming soon. sorry for the long read.

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Unread 05-28-2011, 02:22 AM   #2
toyotaguy
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1998 XJ Cherokee 
 
Join Date: Feb 2011
Location: kamloops, BC
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looking forward to the pics!
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Unread 05-28-2011, 07:37 AM   #3
Saber
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Join Date: Oct 2009
Location: Spanish Fork, Utah
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Here are a couple pics of the before. Currently running 2.5L manual trans with 4.10 gears 2.5"lift with 3/4" homemade shackles and 33" tires.
Swapping in 4.0L AW4 trans with 4.88's SOA and eventually 35" tires.
before.jpg   hieght.jpg  
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Unread 05-28-2011, 09:21 PM   #4
Saber
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Join Date: Oct 2009
Location: Spanish Fork, Utah
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finally got some pics to post
One of the dogs helping me clean the frame.
frame.jpg  
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Unread 05-28-2011, 09:24 PM   #5
Saber
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Location: Spanish Fork, Utah
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rear crossmember 4x4x1/4 angle cut to fit and welded in place. My other dog barking at me to throw the ball
rear-crossmember-2-.jpg  
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Unread 05-28-2011, 09:31 PM   #6
Saber
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Location: Spanish Fork, Utah
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Moving day is finally here.
It is really cool when people are willing to help you out with thier connections.
My brother in law borrowed this truck from his work.
frame-air-2-.jpg   frame-air-3.jpg  
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Unread 05-28-2011, 09:37 PM   #7
Saber
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From time to time in any build things tend to show it's ugly head. when stripping the interior i found a few spots that need extra attention.
first photo drivers seat outside mount, next passenger seat outside mount and the ever common floor rust
driverseatmount.jpg   passseatmount.jpg   floorrust.jpg  
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Last edited by Saber; 05-28-2011 at 09:38 PM.. Reason: photos
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Unread 05-29-2011, 07:18 PM   #8
Saber
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1992 XJ Cherokee 
 
Join Date: Oct 2009
Location: Spanish Fork, Utah
Posts: 62
Today I spent most of the day stripping the old frame down and getting the remaining parts ready to sell Monday morning. while stripping the frame I noticed something that has been suspect since I bought the Jeep. The drivers side of the frame right at the E brake was bent. Glad I purchased the second frame.

When i set the tub on the frame I set it on 4x4 blocks to give room to make sure everything fits good. This is where I ran into a OH CRAP moment today while looking at it this afternoon. The rear shock crossmember that was welded in is too high and would hit the bottom of the tub if set into place.

Now I will have to cut the crossmember off and reweld it lower. I am expecting things like this from time to time and is chalked up as a learning lesson. Started to rain so it is time to clean up and go do some more research.
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Unread 05-31-2011, 08:26 PM   #9
Saber
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Got quite a bit accomplished today, nice to have an extra day off at the end of a holiday weekend.

Fabbed up a transmission mount and got it installed. Transmissoin lined up with the rear hole in the stock skid plate, so I made an adapter plate to mate the AW4 to the manual trans mount.

Installed the fuel and brake hard lines on the frame.

Rerouted the rear brake line to come down right above the pumpkin and fabbed the brake lines to connect in the center. I saved the brake lines from the D35 that I pulled out. Cut off the flexable brake line mount and using the middle bolt for the front fuel tank skid plate to hold it in place. Used the short side brake line to extend the hard line along the crossmember to the center. cut down both long brake lines reflared and installed them. All in all the brake line fab cost me $5.50 in parts and an hour

Cut the shock upper crossmember out and remounted it lower to clear the tub.
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Unread 06-02-2011, 07:48 PM   #10
Saber
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Today I Started to tackle the front axle that was had purchased from a locally. I am one to never just put a part in that i buy from another individual, with that said I proceded to pull the axle apart making sure all of the internals are in good working order.

While removing the bearing cap bolts for the carrier I had to react fast to catch it as it fell out and almost meet the concrete.
I soon noticed the lack of properly placed carrier shims when 3 large shims fell out from behind the bearing races. I let out a big sigh thinking "Wow! Glad I pulled it apart. That could have been deadly going down the freeway like that".

I had noticed earlier that the springs were not sitting quite right and looked as thought they were bent. Looking into it further I notice that the spring perches that was used was a generic perch.

I placed on order with M.O.R.E. and they had a brand new set of offset perches shipped to my house within 3 days. BTW thanks for the free shipping.

Oh by the way the bolts in this shackle are just mock-up bolts and not the ones I am going to use on the street.
shackle-2-.jpg  
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Unread 06-02-2011, 07:51 PM   #11
Saber
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Location: Spanish Fork, Utah
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I really don't have any complaints about the condition of the front axle due to the price that was paid and the parts that came with it. I still made out very well. i am willing to spent the extra time and a few extra dollars to make sure it is done right.
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Unread 06-10-2011, 01:49 AM   #12
Saber
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Location: Spanish Fork, Utah
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In the past week I Got the front axle set in place, the new perches worked out great on getting my shackles lined back up.

Finally got my body lift in and installed, i went with Prothane's 1" body lift/bushing set which installed easy and appears to be well made.

Hooked up the steering and really didn't like the Heim joints so I am going to replace them with TRE's. walked into the Local NAPA with the rod end and a TRE and asked the guy behind the coounter "I need a TRE with this taper and these threads", with a little measuring and some book work he had it to me the next day. way cool service. I bet Autozone can't do that.

That is it for now will get more pics soon
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Unread 06-19-2011, 01:36 PM   #13
Saber
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rerouted rear brake line between upper rear shock mounts.
rear-brake-line.jpg  
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Unread 06-19-2011, 01:42 PM   #14
Saber
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Location: Spanish Fork, Utah
Posts: 62
I drilled the #5 and #6 injector pin locations by hand so i woulds tear up the gasket.

Installed wires into #38 and #58 pin locations respectively.
injector-pin.jpg   injector-pin2.jpg  
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Unread 07-28-2011, 01:47 AM   #15
Saber
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1992 XJ Cherokee 
 
Join Date: Oct 2009
Location: Spanish Fork, Utah
Posts: 62
I haven't posted in a while and thought i should Get caught up on my posts.
Since my last post I had been working on trying to figure out why I couldn't get it started. It would crank and back fire thru the throttle body so i started with the Dizzy and checked it to make sure it was set at #1, after 3 weeks of reserching and looking at just about everything else I pulled the timing cover off to verify the timing chain. I set both marks pointing at each other and set my dizzy to the #1 and still no fire. I finally checked to make sure I was on the compression stroke and noticed that my timing gear was 180* off.
after some thoought i realized that it really didn't matter if the cam was right on or exactly 180* off due to the fact that the crank turns twice to the cams 1. I set the crank to TDC on comp stroke and then set the dizzy to #1 and it acted like it really wanted to fire, finall set the dizzy one tooth advance and she fired right up.
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