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Oconee Off-Road Free Shipping Lifts Tires Bumpers Tops andAdvance Adapters SYE KitsIntroducing MONSTALINERô UV Permanent DIY Roll On Bed Line

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Unread 11-16-2008, 07:40 AM   #1
84MSRB
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1984 CJ7 
 
Join Date: May 2006
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The Rust Bucket Project

I've been asking some really stupid questions on here for a few years, so I figger I'll put up some pics of why. Never really worked on anything bigger than a lawnmower, but needed a mid-life crisis project.
This is where I started: 84 CJ7- stripped


For some stupid reason, went with a 69 Ford 302 with late 70's heads, EFI from a Lincoln Mark VII, and some cam the guy wouldn't tell me about:

This required a Ford clutch, GM disc, and bell from an F150:


Got a tub from Davey in Salem:

Got it all mounted up and shipped out for wiring- way more wires than a lawnmower:

Have added a Rough Country 4" lift, and working on some serious BESRK inspired bumpers, along with home made rocker guards. More pics to come IF ANYTHING EVER GETS DONE.

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1984 CJ7 Mud Slingin Rust Bucket
90 YJ tub
Ford Mutt 5.0( 69 block, 89 EFI)
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Unread 11-16-2008, 07:59 AM   #2
Fflintstone
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glutton for punishment

Everyone has there own opinion. But I always liked GM engines in jeeps. My first jeep was also my first V8 conversion, and for an equally stupid reason I went with an amc V8 (NEVER AGAIN!) I donít know where you are in Ohio, but if you are up near Toledo you can check out the metro Detroit Craigslist, seams like an average of 100 jeep parts postings a day. Lets see it in the spring!
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Unread 11-16-2008, 08:45 AM   #3
84MSRB
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I did a lot of reading and asking before I decided on the SBF. At first, the thought was that it's cheaper to do than SBC. No real adapters are needed, just lots of mismatched parts- like I said- the Ford clutch(new), Ford Flywheel, GM disc(new), Ford F150 bell. I had to make my own clutch linkage bracket doodad since Novak doesn't have one for this swap.
The wiring was way over my head. Took it to a pro- had it running in a day.
Unfortunately, I went MORE motor mounts, so now both driveshafts need adjusted.
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1984 CJ7 Mud Slingin Rust Bucket
90 YJ tub
Ford Mutt 5.0( 69 block, 89 EFI)
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Unread 11-16-2008, 10:56 AM   #4
84MSRB
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I've only had to fab up one part- the motor end of the bellcrank to keep the mechanical clutch as opposed to going hydraulic:


The bumpers are done, but the swing out tire carrier is not.


This is my solution to the CJ defroster in the YJ tub: hope it works...


I did wire wheel and rustoleum the frame- after adding new metal to the tops of the body mounts:
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1984 CJ7 Mud Slingin Rust Bucket
90 YJ tub
Ford Mutt 5.0( 69 block, 89 EFI)
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Unread 11-17-2008, 04:11 PM   #5
84MSRB
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Did get all the goodies for the front of the engine all hooked up- water pump, PS pump, pulleys and serp belt from an 89 Crown Vic. Went right on.


Did have to move the fuel pump from this location. Something about the muffler being 1/2 inch away- it now sits right above the tank.
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1984 CJ7 Mud Slingin Rust Bucket
90 YJ tub
Ford Mutt 5.0( 69 block, 89 EFI)
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Unread 11-18-2008, 05:38 PM   #6
84MSRB
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Here's where the fuel pump sits now.


Had to go ahead and do this:


So I could get started on this little project:


Any advice on exactly how would be appreciated- I'm not sure if I can remove the welded in nut back there or not.
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1984 CJ7 Mud Slingin Rust Bucket
90 YJ tub
Ford Mutt 5.0( 69 block, 89 EFI)
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Unread 11-19-2008, 07:28 AM   #7
craizychair
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fill it then drill and tap it I take it the hole doesn't line up? Hard to tell for sure with the angle of the pic.
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Unread 11-19-2008, 09:05 AM   #8
84MSRB
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The left most hole in the new windshield is off by millimeters- but enough to make the bracket "walk up" as I tightened it. Quick shot with a grinder and that's fixed.

The bottom one could be a pain- gotta actually figger out where the welded in nut sits before I make a new hole- I don't want to drill through a nut, then not be able to weld another one in back there.
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1984 CJ7 Mud Slingin Rust Bucket
90 YJ tub
Ford Mutt 5.0( 69 block, 89 EFI)
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Unread 11-19-2008, 04:52 PM   #9
ET48
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Hey buddy,
Remember me? You helped me some with my 302 project. I don't know if you looked back at my thread or not, but the jeep is now finished!!!! I can't wait to see yours completely finished.



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ET48
1986 CJ-7 LAREDO, 4.2L, 5 speed, 3.31 Gears, D30, D44, 2.5" ProComp lift, 3" BL, 33" TSLs.
1998 TJ SAHARA, 4.0L, 5 speed, 4.11 Gears, D30 (Aussie Locked), Ford 8.8, 4.5" Custom LA, XRC8, AA SYE, TW DS, ZJ tie-rod, Full-Traction front adj. track bar, 35" KM1s.
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Unread 11-19-2008, 05:32 PM   #10
84MSRB
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Dude- that is awesome. Obviously- my engine area needs some cleaning up.

What K&N stuff did you use? That's a pretty good fit.

And have you snapped axles yet? Everybody tells me that's gonna happen real easy.
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1984 CJ7 Mud Slingin Rust Bucket
90 YJ tub
Ford Mutt 5.0( 69 block, 89 EFI)
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Unread 11-19-2008, 08:10 PM   #11
ET48
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Thanks.
Now for the intake I used the stock air tube from a 1988 Ford Cougar that goes to the air box. Then I went to summit racing and bought a cone filter that fits INSIDE the air tube. Then made a little mount that attaches the tube to the grill support.

This is a 1978 CJ-7 with the Dana 30 front, AMC 20 rear, T-150 three speed, Dana (?) transfer case. The AMC 20 already had some play in the taper ends, but I have floored it on the street from a stoplight and have never broke anything yet. I still have the two-piece axles and it has been five months already. I would say as long as you didn't try burn outs on the street, there is no way that you would break something. I have romped on it and nothing broke so....you'll be fine. The worst that would happen is you would strip your axles and have to buy one-piece Moser axles.

Oh, and by the way, those are 33"x12.50 tires on there with stock suspension with 3" body lift. I plan to get a 2.5" suspension lift for it. With the 33" tires and a huge motor, I haven't broke the axle yet
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ET48
1986 CJ-7 LAREDO, 4.2L, 5 speed, 3.31 Gears, D30, D44, 2.5" ProComp lift, 3" BL, 33" TSLs.
1998 TJ SAHARA, 4.0L, 5 speed, 4.11 Gears, D30 (Aussie Locked), Ford 8.8, 4.5" Custom LA, XRC8, AA SYE, TW DS, ZJ tie-rod, Full-Traction front adj. track bar, 35" KM1s.
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Unread 11-20-2008, 06:14 AM   #12
84MSRB
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Have you experienced any fuel starvation? A guy on another forum said he had a problem with that with the same set-up as mine.
I'll put up some more pics of other stuff later.
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1984 CJ7 Mud Slingin Rust Bucket
90 YJ tub
Ford Mutt 5.0( 69 block, 89 EFI)
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Unread 11-20-2008, 10:42 AM   #13
ET48
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I did at first but I fixed that somehow. Here is a list of things to check if it happens to you:

-Check the harness connections
-Make sure your pickup in the tank has no holes
-No holes in the gas line
-Make sure that you have the return line to the return on the engine and not the supply or vice versa
-Make sure you have gas

I have no problems with fuel starvation. It starts right up and never dies.
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ET48
1986 CJ-7 LAREDO, 4.2L, 5 speed, 3.31 Gears, D30, D44, 2.5" ProComp lift, 3" BL, 33" TSLs.
1998 TJ SAHARA, 4.0L, 5 speed, 4.11 Gears, D30 (Aussie Locked), Ford 8.8, 4.5" Custom LA, XRC8, AA SYE, TW DS, ZJ tie-rod, Full-Traction front adj. track bar, 35" KM1s.
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Unread 11-20-2008, 01:20 PM   #14
pointech
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Love seeing a Ford V8 there....keep up the good work.
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Unread 11-20-2008, 08:47 PM   #15
84MSRB
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Very easy swap- not counting the wiring, but that's another issue. Here's the first problem: a V8 is shorter than an I6-duh


This is my not-very-well-thought-out solution:


Yes, those are slots made with a grinder- long enough for everything to fit together. If you guys know that this will be a problem- tell me now and I'll weld something in there.

*Note to others considering this swap: probably much easier to relocate the motor mounts back, and maybe use the RBFH to modify the firewall. Save lots of money by NOT having to have both driveshafts altered.
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1984 CJ7 Mud Slingin Rust Bucket
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