Rubiconrazorbac build thread - Page 2 - JeepForum.com

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post #16 of 343 Old 06-24-2009, 04:05 PM Thread Starter
RubiconRazorbac
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Finished with the lift. Happy with the results so far. Drives great! Some things I need to complete though...

1. I really need to get the new tires on. That'll be the first thing to do after July 4th weekend.

2. I haven't centered the rear axle yet. I have an RC adj. rear trackbar, but just got notice that my Savvy skid is on a brown truck! So it'll be much easier to replace the trackbar with the gas tank out. I'll just add some weight in the backseat when I adjust the TB to compensate for the gas tank being out.

3. I took measurements but haven't compared them to the before numbers yet. I'll post those soon. I have leveling pucks from RC to raise the front a bit, but am going to wait awhile. I still have alot of weight going into this thing with skids, bumpers, sport cage, etc. I'll level after the heavy stuff is on.

4. The quicker discos are set at 14.5 degrees. That's barely inside the JKS acceptable range. I figure this thing will settle a bit though and with the weight I'm going to put on it, I'll check the swaybar again at that point. My guess is I'll be up around 17-18 by then and it'll definitely need to be adjusted down to 10-12 degrees.

5. I did get the shorter shocks from RC. Very good response from Jeffrey when I called--thank you. Below is a pic of the rear shock. If you ignore the rubber bumper on the shock, there's about 4 1/16" travel. I didn't extend the rear bumpstops yet, but when I do, I'm cutting the rubber bumpers off the shock.

6. At some point I WILL get new control arms. Even though I don't "need" them, I really want the strength and adjustability of the Curries.

7. This took longer than I anticipated but was done in my garage, with my tools (and several trips to Autozone and Menards for new ones), jackstands (no lift), and my second set of hands was a 2-year old (except for the MML problem where my Jeep wife stepped-up). Total for the entire build so far has been 3 weekends and a couple of afternoons. Again, a little longer than I thought, but not bad. Good practice though for when I tear into that rusty '97 sitting in the driveway.

Here's the pics. I'll post the numbers later along with any "oh by the ways." More to come with the skids, bumpers, tires, cage, steering upgrade, arms, etc.








Quote:
Originally Posted by Imped View Post
Your shaft isn't long enough to handle that kind of droop...
My build thread:
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Last edited by RubiconRazorbac; 09-06-2009 at 09:32 PM.
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post #17 of 343 Old 06-25-2009, 12:59 PM
NotURMailman
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Looking good so far, keep it up!


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equipped... And loving it!

I drive on the right side, what's wrong with you?


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It's difficult to take you seriously. It's like you're an easily perturbed autistic teenager who's drunk typing the whole time.
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post #18 of 343 Old 06-25-2009, 07:36 PM Thread Starter
RubiconRazorbac
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For those interested, here are the measurements from before (stock) compared to after (RC 2.5" SL, 1.25" BL, 1" MML).

Before After
Front Bumper: 19 3/4" 20 3/4"
Outside lip of front flare: 33" 35 3/4"
Front of rocker (to the diamond plate bottom edge): 19" 21 1/2"Back of rocker (to the diamond plate bottom edge): 20" 22"
Outside lip of back flare: 34 1/8" 36 1/2"
Rear Bumper: 18 3/4" 19 3/8"
Center of gas tank skid: 12 3/8" 13 1/2"Front AND Rear Diffs: 8 3/4" Not measured
Front of shovel: 10 3/4" 11 3/4"
Oil Pan: 13" Not measured

The numbers look funny , but at best I got 2 3/4" of lift out of a combo that should've lifted the body points a total of 3.75". It looks as if at best the 2.5" suspension lift gave me an inch to 1 1/2". That's not what I expected out of something that reportedly yielded significantly more. I didn't measure the diff clearance as it wouldn't have changed since I don't have the new tires yet. As for the oil pan, I just forgot to get the new number.

Edit: Just re-checked and measurements are correct. I'm hoping it doesn't "settle" too much!

Quote:
Originally Posted by Imped View Post
Your shaft isn't long enough to handle that kind of droop...
My build thread:
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Last edited by RubiconRazorbac; 06-25-2009 at 07:44 PM. Reason: Re-checked measurements
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post #19 of 343 Old 06-25-2009, 09:11 PM
FedEazel
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Are you on the same flat surface? Maybe there were some "bumps" in the surface in just the right place either in the before or after measurements.

Ron Paul Was Right

Been on the rails and Big Muddy.
I've crossed the trails rocky and rutted.
Been down the road a million miles,
But I still got a long way to go.
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post #20 of 343 Old 06-25-2009, 09:19 PM Thread Starter
RubiconRazorbac
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Quote:
Originally Posted by FedEazel View Post
Are you on the same flat surface? Maybe there were some "bumps" in the surface in just the right place either in the before or after measurements.

Nice try, but measurements done both times in the same driveway, even in the same spot using the same measuring tape.

The measurements are accurate.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Imped View Post
Your shaft isn't long enough to handle that kind of droop...
My build thread:
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post #21 of 343 Old 06-25-2009, 09:30 PM
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It's a hit and miss with regard to the dealer being able to re-program the computer to change the speedo reading.... sometimes it works, sometime not, and there's only a few settings in there that don't necessarily get you the exact set up to dial in the speedo, depending on tire size, etc. This topic has been discussed many times over at www. rubicon owners forum . com

about the only sure-fire way of dialing in the speedo, and getting it exact, is with the Superlift Truspeed

Bill
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post #22 of 343 Old 06-26-2009, 07:45 PM Thread Starter
RubiconRazorbac
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Check out what just showed up on the doorstep. WooHoo!



Now I just need another free weekend to install...

Quote:
Originally Posted by Imped View Post
Your shaft isn't long enough to handle that kind of droop...
My build thread:
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post #23 of 343 Old 06-26-2009, 07:53 PM
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Man, that Rubi is looking nice.....Later this summer, I'm doing the 3.25 SL W/ BL & MML....Like the red also
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post #24 of 343 Old 06-26-2009, 07:58 PM
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I see that your getting the 33" BFG KM2s (305s)....

Did you look at the Firestone destination MT's? .... Just as good half the price
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post #25 of 343 Old 06-30-2009, 08:45 AM
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with the RC 2.5 lift and 1.25 BL does it come with new F/R sway bar linkage? im doing this exact lift to my GFs dads jeep and was curious, because you said you bought the Disconnects, just wondering if the kit includes the linkage or will i have to order them seperatly?

2000 XJ

will work for jeep parts
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post #26 of 343 Old 06-30-2009, 10:43 AM Thread Starter
RubiconRazorbac
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Osmosiz View Post
with the RC 2.5 lift and 1.25 BL does it come with new F/R sway bar linkage? im doing this exact lift to my GFs dads jeep and was curious, because you said you bought the Disconnects, just wondering if the kit includes the linkage or will i have to order them seperatly?
You have to order them separately. I ordered the JKS quicker discos and they are great. RC also has disconnects although I have heard mixed reviews on them. I didn't mess with the rear sway bar links yet.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Imped View Post
Your shaft isn't long enough to handle that kind of droop...
My build thread:
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post #27 of 343 Old 07-31-2009, 07:51 PM Thread Starter
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So I finally had an afternoon to work on the Jeep. The Currie Currect-lync system was calling my name from the garage so I went to wrenchin'...

Here is the complete Currie system with the steering stabilizer I ordered with the RC lift next to the stock steering.



Drag links for comparison:



Tie-rods for comparison:



System installed:



As you can see, the Currie system is impressive. Pictures don't do it justice, but it makes the stock components look like toothpics. Installation was pretty easy. It took me about 3 hours to do the install by myself--that includes the alignment.

A quick run down the block was nice and smooth. No vibes up to 50mph (couldn't go any faster on the street with traffic flow). Steering feels very tight and precise. I still need to fine tune tomorrow as the tie-rod adjustment bolts on the passenger side hit the can of the SS if I turn all the way to the right. Other than than, I haven't seen any interferences. I'll probably re-check the toe-in at that time too.

Big thanks to Gerald at Savvy offroad for the great deal!!!

Quote:
Originally Posted by Imped View Post
Your shaft isn't long enough to handle that kind of droop...
My build thread:
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post #28 of 343 Old 07-31-2009, 07:58 PM Thread Starter
RubiconRazorbac
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mcg311TJ View Post
Man, that Rubi is looking nice.....Later this summer, I'm doing the 3.25 SL W/ BL & MML....Like the red also
THANKS! Have you installed the 3.25 yet? I ended up getting some .75" spacers for the front that I haven't put on yet. Hopefully that'll take care of the rake.

Quote:
Originally Posted by mcg311TJ View Post
I see that your getting the 33" BFG KM2s (305s)....

Did you look at the Firestone destination MT's? .... Just as good half the price

I haven't checked out the Firestones, but I'll definitely look into it. I'm probably not going to get the tires for another 6-8 weeks.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Imped View Post
Your shaft isn't long enough to handle that kind of droop...
My build thread:
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post #29 of 343 Old 08-01-2009, 05:24 PM Thread Starter
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Re-checked clearances and alignment today from the Currie steering system install. Had to adjust the tie-rod clamp on the passenger side so the nut wouldn't hit the steering stabilizer. Not too big a deal. Everything else clears great.

One thing, definitely make sure you have correct-length bumpstops if you run a shorter <3" lift with the Currie steering/JKS trackbar combo. If this thing were fully compressed with stock bumpstops, there'd definitely be interferences between the steering and trackbar. I still have to stuff a Riddler diff. cover in there too...

I've decided that I'm definitely going to look for another set of shocks/springs to give me a true 3" of lift. I don't want to go over 4, but need more than what I've got now to clear everything up front. 3-4" of suspension lift over my original stock measurements would be what I'm looking for.

Anyway, I wanted to also give a big thanks to Jerry for posting a picture of his alignment jig. I think he gave credit to Blaine for the setup. I love it. I set the toe-in at exactly 1/8" and it drives perfectly!

Here are a couple of pics of the jig:





I just used a couple of pieces of 36" metal shelving material, drew a centerline, measured out 15.25" either side to get the 30.5" diameter of the stock tires. I'll put new lines on it when I get larger tires, but I don't think I'll have to worry about going over 36" Clamp the jig to the centerline of the bottom of the rotor, then measure.

At some point I need to put on the Savvy gas tank skid that's sitting in the corner of the dining room!

Quote:
Originally Posted by Imped View Post
Your shaft isn't long enough to handle that kind of droop...
My build thread:
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Last edited by RubiconRazorbac; 10-16-2009 at 11:58 PM.
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post #30 of 343 Old 08-29-2009, 01:24 PM Thread Starter
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Losing my mind...

Well, I've decided to change direction. I originally liked the lift and and was pretty happy, but the honeymoon period is done. As I've said earlier, I didn't get much out of the suspension lift. Nothing against RC, I just want to do something else with my Jeep. The only thing I can figure is since I have the 4.0L, hardtop, etc., the "progressive" part of the springs aren't supporting the Jeep as much as I'd like. Plus, since I've been so busy this summer, I haven't bought new tires and I'm thinking 35s now. All you guys told me that would happen, I guess I just had to experience it myself.

So, with that, I'm looking at either the Currie Short Arm or Clayton 4" long-arm. I haven't heard anything negative with either one so I'm just going to figure out which one to get. I'm leaning toward the Currie but who knows.

I'm keeping the BL/MML as I want to ditch the shovel. Still holding out for the Savvy TT.

Also I have to figure out if I want to keep the discos or get the Antirock.

I originally was going to get EBC Yellows as I thought I wanted Longfield (RCV now) axles. However, at $1000 a pair, I'll get some cro-moly shafts and maybe upgrade the brakes to Vanco. I may try the EBCs first as they reportedly are very effective.

I don't know, lots to think about.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Imped View Post
Your shaft isn't long enough to handle that kind of droop...
My build thread:
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Last edited by RubiconRazorbac; 10-17-2009 at 12:00 AM.
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