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Rubiconrazorbac build thread

123K views 342 replies 67 participants last post by  365Jeep 
#1 · (Edited)
I love reading builds and figured I'd start one since I've got quite a few things to do to the Rubi. I've got an idea of where I'm going, but I'm sure it'll be a work-in-progress for quite some time. Plus, I'm sure I'll change my mind about what I'm going to do as it goes along (at least that's what everyone tells me).

The outline of the build will be on the next post and that's where I'll keep everything summarized.


:cheers::cheers2::cheers::cheers2::cheers:
 
#2 · (Edited)
So here's what's on tap for the build:

This list will be frequently edited as parts are made, bought, installed, removed, thrown away, or planned.

Currently Installed
Rough Country 1.25" Body Lift (Rough Country)
Rough Country 1" Motor Mount Lift (Rough Country)
Currie CV Driveshaft (Savvy Offroad)
Currie 4" Suspension Lift w/Antirock
Rancho RS9000XL Shocks
Currie Currectlync HD Steering Upgrade (Savvy Offroad)
Rock Hard Front Bumper w/Angled Hoop (Northridge4x4)
Superwinch LP8500 (Rokmen)
Rokmen Recovery Kit "D" (30' Strap, Tree Saver, 2 Shackles) (Rokmen)
Spidertrax Wheel Spacers (4x4groupbuy.com)
315-75/R16 Mickey Thompson MTZs (JC Whitney)
Front Black Magic Pads (Black Magic Brakes)
Front Centric Premium Front Rotors (Thepartsbin.com)
Rear EBC Greenstuff Pads & Centric Premium Rear Pads(Tirerack.com/Autoanything.com)
Savvy Offroad Gas Tank Skid (Savvy Offroad)
LoD Xtreme Duty Rear Bumper/Tire Carrier (LoD Offroad)
Teraflex Foglight Wire Extensions (Teraflex)
Interior LEDs (superbrightleds.com)
Metalcloak Arched Fenders w/6" Flares (Metalcloak)
LED Turn Signals (Metalcloak)
Savvy Offroad Aluminum Rockers (Stainless Steel Slider) (Savvy Offroad)
Savvy Offroad Full Corners (Factory Flare) (Savvy Offroad)
Alpine CDA 9886 (Crutchfield)
Savvy Offroad Tub Rails (Savvy Offroad)
Savvy Offroad LED Taillights (Savvy Offroad)
Pacer LED License Plate Light (Savvy Offroad)
Savvy Offroad License Plate Bracket (Savvy Offroad)
Corbeau Baja RS Seats (Northridge 4x4)
Corbeau Rear Seat (Northridge 4x4)

Bought but not Installed
Poly Performance Cage
16" Vanco Big Brake Kit (Savvy Offroad)
Savvy Underarmor
Swaybar endlink relocation bracket (mrblaine)
Tie-rod flip knuckle insert (go-fer-it)
TJ w/mini buttons Winch Controller (12voltguy)
IPF H4 housings (Quadratec)
IPF Fatboy II bulbs (Quadratec)
Headlight Heavy Wattage Wiring Harness (eAutoWorks.com)
Savvy Offroad Ultimate Heat-treated Chromoly Tie Rod
Rancho Steering Stabilizer
Viking Offroad Synthetic Winchline w/Thimble
Synergy Suspension Ball Joints
Timken Unit Bearings
Savvy Offroad Aluminum Trail Doors
12" Fox 2.0 w/reservoir shocks
Synergy Suspension Front coilover shock mounts (to be used with the Fox non-coilover shocks)
Ram, Cooler, & Brackets for hydro assist from Black Magic Brakes
Clayton Front 3-link Truss
Savvy Off-road mid-arm suspension upgrade
LED Lighbar for Front Bumper
LED Backup Lights
SPOD
Rigid SR series 50" light bar w/Poison Spyder brackets (Poison Spyder)

Still need to make or buy
Superior Front Axles
Transmission Cooler
Windshield Light mounts & lights
Re-gear to 5.13!!!
Speedo correction--Truspeed?

I don't think I've missed anything. The end goal on this is to be able to run 35s very well offroad and as a daily driver. Most offroading is getting to fun camping spots with the kids, or into the backwoods to hunt & fish. However, my wife and I would REALLY like to drive out to Moab or the Rubicon for a week for a kids-free vacation sometime!
 
#6 ·
Pics of the Body Lift

Before and after 1.25" Body Lift and 1" Motor Mount Lift

Before...



After...



My Pit Crew...
 
#7 ·
Rock sliders are installed. Very easy with the directions from RC. Took about 4 hours by myself but would go much faster with an extra set of hands. The self-threading bolts are difficult to start, but I used an impact wrench to get the threads started, then ratcheted them down and torqued to specs. For less than $200, I'm more than happy with the result. However, if I didn't already have the stock rocker guards, I would have bought the guard/sliders that bolt to the tub (something like the A to Z fab).



 
#9 ·
With the Rubicon you can change the Tire size via the Jeep DRBIII Scantool. Not sure if 305 is an option, but I know it had 33x12.50R15 as an option.
 
#11 ·
Thanks Gerald. I was going to wait a couple of weeks on the Currie, but I may have to pull the trigger if you've got a deal! PM'd you.
 
#13 ·
Just finished installing the front end of the Rough Country 2.5" Suspension Lift. Some notes:

1. PB Blaster was my friend. I've been spraying it on every other day for a couple of weeks now. Honestly, I didn't think I'd need it since the Jeep isn't old (2003) and is about as rust-free as you can get in the Midwest. However, the shock mounting hardware would've been a nightmare if I didn't use the Blaster.

2. For some reason, I did NOT have the spring retaining clip on the driver's side. Unless someone tells me it's detrimental not to have it, I'm not going to worry about it.

3. Doing this by myself was difficult and frustrating, but not impossible. Removing the springs was easy. Putting in the new ones sucked. I disconnected the swaybar AND the lower control arms. I jacked up one side as high as it would go and dropped the side I was working with until the brake lines were at their limit. Still couldn't force the springs in. So I went to Autozone to borrow a spring compressor. Well, everbody on this forum that recommends the Autozone spring compressor is doing it as a joke or they've never used them. I honestly think it's a way for the experienced guys on here to haze us noobs! It'll compress the springs alright, but once you get the springs on the perch, there is NO WAY to get the compressor out of the spring. So, I took the spring back off and sat and stewed for a few minutes--threw back a cold beer--then came up with my own spring compressor. I looped two sets of heavy-duty ratchet straps through the springs and tightened them down until I could get the springs in. Worked like a freakin' charm. There is no easier way to do this!!!

4. Once the springs were in, getting the new shocks on was a piece of cake. RC puts new hardware for the top mount in which was great. The lower shock mounts use the old hardware which was just fine. Everything went together as it should.

I still need to install the JKS trackbar and quicker discos before I start on the rear end of the lift. I'll do that later this afternoon.

I'll post some pics when I finish the whole thing tomorrow.

Lessons learned: Ratchet straps, PB Blaster, COLD Beer, and a good impact gun are your friends!:cheers2::2thumbsup::thumbsup:
 
#14 ·
You didn't use the correct spring compressor, there are a few different types and the one you needed is a two piece unit that goes on the outside of the spring that you alternate from side to side compressing a little at a time and once you get enough compression then ya install her and reverse the uncompressing.
 
#15 ·
That would've been nice. If only they had that at Autozone today:brickwall.

The ratchet straps did work great though. But I don't think I'd use anything but the heavy duty ones.:thumbsup:
 
#16 · (Edited)
Finished with the lift. Happy with the results so far. Drives great! Some things I need to complete though...

1. I really need to get the new tires on. That'll be the first thing to do after July 4th weekend.

2. I haven't centered the rear axle yet. I have an RC adj. rear trackbar, but just got notice that my Savvy skid is on a brown truck! So it'll be much easier to replace the trackbar with the gas tank out. I'll just add some weight in the backseat when I adjust the TB to compensate for the gas tank being out.

3. I took measurements but haven't compared them to the before numbers yet. I'll post those soon. I have leveling pucks from RC to raise the front a bit, but am going to wait awhile. I still have alot of weight going into this thing with skids, bumpers, sport cage, etc. I'll level after the heavy stuff is on.

4. The quicker discos are set at 14.5 degrees. That's barely inside the JKS acceptable range. I figure this thing will settle a bit though and with the weight I'm going to put on it, I'll check the swaybar again at that point. My guess is I'll be up around 17-18 by then and it'll definitely need to be adjusted down to 10-12 degrees.

5. I did get the shorter shocks from RC. Very good response from Jeffrey when I called--thank you. Below is a pic of the rear shock. If you ignore the rubber bumper on the shock, there's about 4 1/16" travel. I didn't extend the rear bumpstops yet, but when I do, I'm cutting the rubber bumpers off the shock.

6. At some point I WILL get new control arms. Even though I don't "need" them, I really want the strength and adjustability of the Curries.

7. This took longer than I anticipated but was done in my garage, with my tools (and several trips to Autozone and Menards for new ones), jackstands (no lift), and my second set of hands was a 2-year old (except for the MML problem where my Jeep wife stepped-up). Total for the entire build so far has been 3 weekends and a couple of afternoons. Again, a little longer than I thought, but not bad. Good practice though for when I tear into that rusty '97 sitting in the driveway.

Here's the pics. I'll post the numbers later along with any "oh by the ways." More to come with the skids, bumpers, tires, cage, steering upgrade, arms, etc.





 
#18 · (Edited)
For those interested, here are the measurements from before (stock) compared to after (RC 2.5" SL, 1.25" BL, 1" MML).

Before After
Front Bumper: 19 3/4" 20 3/4"
Outside lip of front flare: 33" 35 3/4"
Front of rocker (to the diamond plate bottom edge): 19" 21 1/2"Back of rocker (to the diamond plate bottom edge): 20" 22"
Outside lip of back flare: 34 1/8" 36 1/2"
Rear Bumper: 18 3/4" 19 3/8"
Center of gas tank skid: 12 3/8" 13 1/2"Front AND Rear Diffs: 8 3/4" Not measured
Front of shovel: 10 3/4" 11 3/4"
Oil Pan: 13" Not measured

The numbers look funny :dunno:, but at best I got 2 3/4" of lift out of a combo that should've lifted the body points a total of 3.75". It looks as if at best the 2.5" suspension lift gave me an inch to 1 1/2". That's not what I expected out of something that reportedly yielded significantly more. I didn't measure the diff clearance as it wouldn't have changed since I don't have the new tires yet. As for the oil pan, I just forgot to get the new number.

Edit: Just re-checked and measurements are correct. I'm hoping it doesn't "settle" too much!
 
#19 ·
Are you on the same flat surface? Maybe there were some "bumps" in the surface in just the right place either in the before or after measurements.
 
#20 ·
Nice try, but measurements done both times in the same driveway, even in the same spot using the same measuring tape.:rofl::rofl:

The measurements are accurate.
 
#21 ·
It's a hit and miss with regard to the dealer being able to re-program the computer to change the speedo reading.... sometimes it works, sometime not, and there's only a few settings in there that don't necessarily get you the exact set up to dial in the speedo, depending on tire size, etc. This topic has been discussed many times over at www. rubicon owners forum . com

about the only sure-fire way of dialing in the speedo, and getting it exact, is with the Superlift Truspeed
 
#22 ·
Check out what just showed up on the doorstep. WooHoo!:cheers:



Now I just need another free weekend to install...
 
#28 ·
THANKS! :cheers2: Have you installed the 3.25 yet? I ended up getting some .75" spacers for the front that I haven't put on yet. Hopefully that'll take care of the rake.

I see that your getting the 33" BFG KM2s (305s)....

Did you look at the Firestone destination MT's? .... Just as good half the price
I haven't checked out the Firestones, but I'll definitely look into it:thumbsup:. I'm probably not going to get the tires for another 6-8 weeks.
 
#25 ·
with the RC 2.5 lift and 1.25 BL does it come with new F/R sway bar linkage? im doing this exact lift to my GFs dads jeep and was curious, because you said you bought the Disconnects, just wondering if the kit includes the linkage or will i have to order them seperatly?
 
#26 ·
You have to order them separately. I ordered the JKS quicker discos and they are great. RC also has disconnects although I have heard mixed reviews on them. I didn't mess with the rear sway bar links yet.
 
#27 ·
So I finally had an afternoon to work on the Jeep. The Currie Currect-lync system was calling my name from the garage so I went to wrenchin'...

Here is the complete Currie system with the steering stabilizer I ordered with the RC lift next to the stock steering.



Drag links for comparison:



Tie-rods for comparison:



System installed:



As you can see, the Currie system is impressive. Pictures don't do it justice, but it makes the stock components look like toothpics. Installation was pretty easy. It took me about 3 hours to do the install by myself--that includes the alignment.

A quick run down the block was nice and smooth. No vibes up to 50mph (couldn't go any faster on the street with traffic flow). Steering feels very tight and precise. I still need to fine tune tomorrow as the tie-rod adjustment bolts on the passenger side hit the can of the SS if I turn all the way to the right. Other than than, I haven't seen any interferences. I'll probably re-check the toe-in at that time too.

Big thanks to Gerald at Savvy offroad for the great deal!!!:cheers2:
 
#29 · (Edited)
Re-checked clearances and alignment today from the Currie steering system install. Had to adjust the tie-rod clamp on the passenger side so the nut wouldn't hit the steering stabilizer. Not too big a deal. Everything else clears great.

One thing, definitely make sure you have correct-length bumpstops if you run a shorter <3" lift with the Currie steering/JKS trackbar combo. If this thing were fully compressed with stock bumpstops, there'd definitely be interferences between the steering and trackbar. I still have to stuff a Riddler diff. cover in there too...:laugh:

I've decided that I'm definitely going to look for another set of shocks/springs to give me a true 3" of lift. I don't want to go over 4, but need more than what I've got now to clear everything up front. 3-4" of suspension lift over my original stock measurements would be what I'm looking for.

Anyway, I wanted to also give a big thanks to Jerry for posting a picture of his alignment jig. I think he gave credit to Blaine for the setup. I love it. I set the toe-in at exactly 1/8" and it drives perfectly!

Here are a couple of pics of the jig:





I just used a couple of pieces of 36" metal shelving material, drew a centerline, measured out 15.25" either side to get the 30.5" diameter of the stock tires. I'll put new lines on it when I get larger tires, but I don't think I'll have to worry about going over 36":rofl: Clamp the jig to the centerline of the bottom of the rotor, then measure.

At some point I need to put on the Savvy gas tank skid that's sitting in the corner of the dining room!:2thumbsup:
 
#30 · (Edited)
Losing my mind...

Well, I've decided to change direction. I originally liked the lift and and was pretty happy, but the honeymoon period is done. As I've said earlier, I didn't get much out of the suspension lift. Nothing against RC, I just want to do something else with my Jeep. The only thing I can figure is since I have the 4.0L, hardtop, etc., the "progressive" part of the springs aren't supporting the Jeep as much as I'd like. Plus, since I've been so busy this summer, I haven't bought new tires and I'm thinking 35s now. All you guys told me that would happen, I guess I just had to experience it myself.:shhh:

So, with that, I'm looking at either the Currie Short Arm or Clayton 4" long-arm. I haven't heard anything negative with either one so I'm just going to figure out which one to get. I'm leaning toward the Currie but who knows.

I'm keeping the BL/MML as I want to ditch the shovel. Still holding out for the Savvy TT.

Also I have to figure out if I want to keep the discos or get the Antirock.

I originally was going to get EBC Yellows as I thought I wanted Longfield (RCV now) axles. However, at $1000 a pair, I'll get some cro-moly shafts and maybe upgrade the brakes to Vanco. I may try the EBCs first as they reportedly are very effective.

I don't know, lots to think about.
 
#31 · (Edited)
Figured I'd start working this thing out. The new plan is on the 2nd post on this thread. Basically I'm going to go with Currie SA or Clayton LA for the lift. Again, I just want something a little more heavy duty than what I've got now. Call it buyer's remorse, being fickle, or just plain Jeep-crazy. So unless Uncle Sam runs out of money on October 1st, I'll order everything at that time.

Let me know if you notice any glaring holes in the plan. I know this'll do for at least a year or my wife will move me to the garage permanently!
 
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