Rotted Tub Replacement - Page 3 - JeepForum.com

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post #31 of 112 Old 01-23-2014, 04:22 PM Thread Starter
whiskeywiz
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1989 YJ Wrangler 
 
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So, once again, the very rear of the frame is the sole area of frame repair for me. The problem is that I am working around two body mounts and 2 leaf spring mounts, so I am very concerned with losing any of those locations. I certainly do not want to chop off the frame and try to replicate it freehand. I need to replace the outside and inside panels along with the bottom edge on both the passenger and driver sides, all while not disturbing the body and leaf mounts. I decided to cut out and replace the rot section by section. I spent some time making cardboard templates before cutting anything out.

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post #32 of 112 Old 01-23-2014, 04:25 PM Thread Starter
whiskeywiz
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Once I had a template, I made the replacement piece. Once I had the replacement piece, I marked it out onto the frame and then I cut it out of the frame.
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post #33 of 112 Old 01-23-2014, 04:27 PM
IceKnight
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Awesome work on the tub it looks great. Cant wait to see how the frame turns out.

I always find it funny when posting pictures, we all put so much work and effort into our jeeps, and some of the biggest things we do are summed up in just a few photos when in reality it took hours and hours of work.
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post #34 of 112 Old 01-23-2014, 04:34 PM Thread Starter
whiskeywiz
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And there it is. I'm pretty psyched that the welds may be practically invisible after I lay 4 coats of paint over top! That poor bushing took a whooping today. Lol. Would have been nice to have some kind of fire retardant gel laying around.
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post #35 of 112 Old 01-24-2014, 04:39 PM Thread Starter
whiskeywiz
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Quote:
Originally Posted by IceKnight View Post
Awesome work on the tub it looks great. Cant wait to see how the frame turns out.

I always find it funny when posting pictures, we all put so much work and effort into our jeeps, and some of the biggest things we do are summed up in just a few photos when in reality it took hours and hours of work.
Right on. Very well put. I'm also a "get right to the point" kind of guy, leave it up to the reader for interpretation.
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post #36 of 112 Old 01-24-2014, 04:44 PM Thread Starter
whiskeywiz
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I stopped at HD and picked up an outdoor thermometer to put in the garage. It has been very cold here and I am concerned about painting the frame, as I am nearing that point. My garage is uninsulated. I have 2 kerosene heaters and a small propane heater out there. I'm going to monitor my avg. temp and go from there. I'm thinking if we can get back up into the 20's I may be able to pull an acceptable temp out there.
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post #37 of 112 Old 01-26-2014, 09:08 PM Thread Starter
whiskeywiz
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It was 21 degrees Saturday and 6 degrees today. I was able to get it up to 50 degrees both days with the 2 kerosene heaters constant and the propane about every couple hours just for a boost. Should be fine for painting.
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post #38 of 112 Old 01-29-2014, 04:35 PM Thread Starter
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It took longer that I would have liked, but the passenger side is done. A lot of up, down, up, down, mark, cut, trim, retrim, trim some more... fit, trim, refit, retrim, weld.
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post #39 of 112 Old 01-29-2014, 04:44 PM Thread Starter
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So it was on to the driver's side. I was reinforcing the four side panels with a backer plate that is shown on the second pic. Obviously, I could only interior weld on one panel per side. I figure that'll be fine as it's box frame and the backers are just added support. On the panels that I couldn't weld on the inside I just left a 1/2" gap where I could get in there and weld it from the outside.
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post #40 of 112 Old 01-29-2014, 04:50 PM Thread Starter
whiskeywiz
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Goodies. Shocks, Shackles, Body Mount Kit. Lift kit hopefully not too far on backorder.
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post #41 of 112 Old 01-29-2014, 04:56 PM Thread Starter
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Looking for some input on these pics here. I am leaving off the flimsy stock rear crossmember and am replacing with heavy channel. I did it a little bass ackwards where instead of cutting out the webbing on the channel for fitment I left my plates an inch and a half short. The channel webbing will now but up to the frame and I will still be at the original rear end location. I threw the shackle on to see it the webbing would interfere with the shackle travel. Does that look ok?
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post #42 of 112 Old 01-29-2014, 05:08 PM Thread Starter
whiskeywiz
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The rear end is all done except for the rear crossmember. I don't want to weld that on until I put the internal frame coating on, that way I have a nice opening for access. I went up to the front today. Took the bumper off, the grill off, the shocks and the steering pump. More rot under the steering box! I should have seen it coming, I had a 76 CJ that had the same thing. I didn't pull the motor, because it was already rebuilt and I don't have space to have that thing hangin around, but I am kinda wishing I did. Hopefully just a little more welding and then on to paint...
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post #43 of 112 Old 01-29-2014, 06:43 PM
caronaxtr
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Originally Posted by whiskeywiz View Post
Does that look ok?

I think you'll have to mock it up once you get the new leaf's in. I'm not sure how much movement you'll get when you're flexin. I think you'll be okay.. now back to weldin
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post #44 of 112 Old 01-29-2014, 09:07 PM Thread Starter
whiskeywiz
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I unpacked my body mount kit by Crown Automotive Sales that came today. No bolts. Really, no bolts? They're not included! Not gonna go into a rant here but wtf?
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post #45 of 112 Old 01-30-2014, 07:40 AM
caronaxtr
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Quote:
Originally Posted by whiskeywiz
I unpacked my body mount kit by Crown Automotive Sales that came today. No bolts. Really, no bolts? They're not included! Not gonna go into a rant here but wtf?
Sounds about right, their replacement parts not a rebuild kit. Lol. Grab the bolts you took out & head to lowes for some new hardware.
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