'rock crawling go-cart' or something - Page 51 - JeepForum.com

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post #751 of 6546 Old 05-20-2010, 01:21 PM
jeepbro's
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I didnt realize rockcrusher was smaller than solid. I thought they were basically the same. The only part that hits is the 'rib' on the top right when looking at the diff cover from head on. Luckily i haven't been wasting money on the track bars, when I first bought my jeep almost 3 years ago the front track bar was shot and i replaced it with the autozone one with life time warranty and before the new diff cover only had replaced it once. or twice But about 3 times now since last october adding the solid diff cover and decided to get a moog with a nicer bushing and TRE. Also, my jeep, at least i thought so, was already bumpstopped pretty well. Because my tires go up and literally just 'touch' my fenders on the inside but they dont hit or go any higher. I might need a little more obumpstop but just almost at ride height it looks like my track bar (near the frame mount) is real close to the rib on the diff cover as is.
-Any ideas on how important that rib is to strength? i was thining of maybe grinding that rib down and making it smaller so there is no more interference there. I dont really feel like spending more money on a different cover like a riddler or something especially since i got these on sale for 60 a piece and something like riddlers are double that. Worse case i'll go back to stock cover if i have to.

Thanks for the help and tips, Just trying to take care of these problems one by one as they come at me. Almost have my Jeep working all perfect just always finding some more little things haha I guess that how it always is though.


2002 tj sahara 3" lift 35" km2, AtoZ rockers, 8k warn, 4.56 gears, lock-rites front and rear
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post #752 of 6546 Old 05-20-2010, 02:15 PM Thread Starter
Imped
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jforse View Post
Is this still with the 2.2 RC shocks? I cant remember if you had the 3.25" kit or the 2.5" kit. Not sure if the shocks are different between kits. I also assume you have hacked that gay *** rubber snubber off of the shocks? I'm curious as to what bumpstop you are using front and rear since our rigs are setup almost identical.
Yep, still running them. I have no complaints about them. I was running RC 2.5" coils with 1.25" spacers up front.....and I was still 1" low. Running only RC 2.5" coils in the rear and 3" BDS springs up front now. The BDS springs alone gave me 1" more than the RC coils + spacers. I'm very happy with the current spring/shock setup on the road but I could use longer front shocks off the road. And yes, I hacked the rubber pieces off long ago. I'm using 1" bump stop extensions in the rear. I could use another .5" but as of now, the tire only rubs the rear of the fender when under FULL bump. I'm running 3" YJ body lift spacers on the lower coil mounts up front. Between the spacer and cup there is exactly 4". I COULD hack .5" off the spacer but I didn't bother. Pictures are a couple pages back.
Quote:
Originally Posted by jeepbro's View Post
I didnt realize rockcrusher was smaller than solid. I thought they were basically the same. The only part that hits is the 'rib' on the top right when looking at the diff cover from head on. Luckily i haven't been wasting money on the track bars, when I first bought my jeep almost 3 years ago the front track bar was shot and i replaced it with the autozone one with life time warranty and before the new diff cover only had replaced it once. or twice But about 3 times now since last october adding the solid diff cover and decided to get a moog with a nicer bushing and TRE. Also, my jeep, at least i thought so, was already bumpstopped pretty well. Because my tires go up and literally just 'touch' my fenders on the inside but they dont hit or go any higher. I might need a little more obumpstop but just almost at ride height it looks like my track bar (near the frame mount) is real close to the rib on the diff cover as is.
-Any ideas on how important that rib is to strength? i was thining of maybe grinding that rib down and making it smaller so there is no more interference there. I dont really feel like spending more money on a different cover like a riddler or something especially since i got these on sale for 60 a piece and something like riddlers are double that. Worse case i'll go back to stock cover if i have to.

Thanks for the help and tips, Just trying to take care of these problems one by one as they come at me. Almost have my Jeep working all perfect just always finding some more little things haha I guess that how it always is though.
It really surprises me that a stock track bar is making contact with the diff cover. Personally, I don't see an issue with grinding down the rib a bit but that's just me....it's your diff cover.

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post #753 of 6546 Old 05-20-2010, 02:19 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Imped View Post
Yep, still running them. I have no complaints about them. I was running RC 2.5" coils with 1.25" spacers up front.....and I was still 1" low. Running only RC 2.5" coils in the rear and 3" BDS springs up front now. The BDS springs alone gave me 1" more than the RC coils + spacers. I'm very happy with the current spring/shock setup on the road but I could use longer front shocks off the road. And yes, I hacked the rubber pieces off long ago. I'm using 1" bump stop extensions in the rear. I could use another .5" but as of now, the tire only rubs the rear of the fender when under FULL bump. I'm running 3" YJ body lift spacers on the lower coil mounts up front. Between the spacer and cup there is exactly 4". I COULD hack .5" off the spacer but I didn't bother. Pictures are a couple pages back.

r.

Roger. Thanks.

Where did you find the BDS coils seperate from a kit?

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2004 WJ Freedom Edition 4.7HO

Last edited by jforse; 05-20-2010 at 02:37 PM.
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post #754 of 6546 Old 05-20-2010, 04:34 PM Thread Starter
Imped
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You can order them separately by using the part number. They are cheap and fantastic.

OlllllllO
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post #755 of 6546 Old 05-20-2010, 05:46 PM
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I'll probably just grind that rib down. Wont hurt anything because its already dented the rib from the track bar itself .
Also How much were those BDS coils? and where did you find them. I almost wouldnt mind just redoing my suspension from the beginning starting with coils and shocks and as money comes in the more expensive parts. Especially becasue my jeep is kinda heavy with a winch and spare tire/carrier

2002 tj sahara 3" lift 35" km2, AtoZ rockers, 8k warn, 4.56 gears, lock-rites front and rear
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post #756 of 6546 Old 05-20-2010, 05:54 PM Thread Starter
Imped
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Front 3" springs: 034302
Rear 3" springs: 034308
bds-suspension.com
$130 shipped for the fronts.

If you get to the "kits", all part numbers are listed. Just search products by part number and add whatever you want into a cart.

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post #757 of 6546 Old 05-21-2010, 08:32 PM Thread Starter
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Some pictures of the new arm and trimmed Rubi flares. The front flares aren't on yet. Anymore picture requests?
Attached Thumbnails
100_0068.jpg   100_0069.jpg   100_0071.jpg   100_0079.jpg  

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post #758 of 6546 Old 05-21-2010, 08:38 PM
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Looks like you need to hit them with some sand paper to even them up.

Edit: it does look good. We need daytime pics though.

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post #759 of 6546 Old 05-21-2010, 08:41 PM Thread Starter
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They could use a little more sanding but when it comes down to it, I doubt I'll be able to make them 100% perfect. I'm very happy with how they came out. The single front flare I have turned out really nice. I'll take some daylight pictures soon.

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post #760 of 6546 Old 05-21-2010, 08:57 PM
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I trimmed mine awhile ago as well. I used a utility knife and smoothed it out with sandpaper. The sandpaper finished it nicely.

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post #761 of 6546 Old 05-21-2010, 09:11 PM
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Now that one looks good. I think it is the turns that is the hardest.

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post #762 of 6546 Old 05-26-2010, 10:53 PM Thread Starter
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Well tonight sucked for me. At least everyone else got what they needed to get done.

While attempting to install the LED's, the hole saw bit wasn't cutting it and the mandrel bit wasn't keeping the hole saw centered. So, instead of cutting a nice round hole right where I wanted it, the hole saw wobbled all over the place and couldn't cut through, basically moving corner armor to the top of my list. I stopped and we put the factory lights back on.

Here's the best part--I started to pull the evap junk out so that we could drill on the passenger side. While putting it back in at home, I snapped a bit off of the gray valve bit. After looking, I believe it's called the "flow control valve" and is part of the fuel system. I am now unsure if it's safe to drive with this piece being broken. It also doesn't look like I can order this part from the dealer by itself. Hell, I can't find ANY info on this thing.

Any help would be appreciated. Tonight blew.

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post #763 of 6546 Old 05-26-2010, 10:59 PM
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That sucks to hear man. If you are lucky, you can find it in the JY, or could bypass it and still get not codes (like Idaho Jeep did).

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post #764 of 6546 Old 05-26-2010, 11:12 PM Thread Starter
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I believe Idaho bypassed the charcoal canister, not the valve. I'm definitely gonna try to ditch the canister but the valve is needed regardless. I'm gonna try to splice new line in tomorrow. I HATE the stupid evap crap in late model TJ's.

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post #765 of 6546 Old 05-27-2010, 06:04 AM
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Oh damn Imped, that sucks...I wish I had some help to offer, but I'm not all to familiar with the evap system.

Best of luck to you getting that figured out.

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Finesse in crawling looks way cooler than momentum.
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