post #5476 of Old 10-28-2013, 07:35 AM
TURBevO8
Registered User
2006 TJ Wrangler 
 
Join Date: Nov 2008
Location: Chambersburg, PA
Posts: 871
Had my genright highlines out the first time this weekend. Tapped the flare on a rock. Nothing major by any means. I can now fit my pinky between the fender and rocker guard where before the gap was 1/16" or so. Disappointed...


2006 Impact Orange TJ X
2004 Apex Silver EVO VIII GSR
TURBevO8 is offline  
post #5477 of Old 10-28-2013, 07:41 AM Thread Starter
Imped
Web Wheeler
 
Imped's Avatar
2004 TJ Wrangler 
 
Join Date: Feb 2008
Location: Indianapolis
Posts: 20,271
Well....maybe not then.

Aluminum being used in that application appears to be sacrificial to save the tub. But if they sacrifice themselves well before tub damage even enters the equation then maybe I'll rethink that.

OlllllllO
Float Test Build
IndyORV
Imped is online now  
post #5478 of Old 10-28-2013, 07:51 AM
TURBevO8
Registered User
2006 TJ Wrangler 
 
Join Date: Nov 2008
Location: Chambersburg, PA
Posts: 871
If you run flare less you may be ok. No chance of passing inspection here in PA though. In fact so far nobody will pass it with 4" flares.

2006 Impact Orange TJ X
2004 Apex Silver EVO VIII GSR
TURBevO8 is offline  
post #5479 of Old 10-28-2013, 07:54 AM Thread Starter
Imped
Web Wheeler
 
Imped's Avatar
2004 TJ Wrangler 
 
Join Date: Feb 2008
Location: Indianapolis
Posts: 20,271
LOL.....of course I'd run flareless.

OlllllllO
Float Test Build
IndyORV
Imped is online now  
post #5480 of Old 10-28-2013, 08:01 AM
dayriesw
Web Wheeler
 
dayriesw's Avatar
1987 MJ Comanche 
 
Join Date: Jul 2009
Location: Louisiana
Posts: 6,113
There is always a fiberglass hood option too. I cant remember the exact #s (they are in my build somewhere) but I think I saved about 10lbs per fenders side and ~20 lbs for the stock hood over my replacement hood. So if I removed about 30~40 lbs, you could add an engine cage or something more substantial out of dom tubing. Using 1 3/4" dom with 1/8 walls that weights about 2 lbs per foot, stay under 20 ft and you are at about stock weight on the front end with just as strong a set up as tube fenders with under the weight of aftermarket tube fenders. Plus, it is kind of stealth/stock which I like.

06 WK 5.7 Hemi Overland
87 MJ Chief 57k original miles... getting built in the backyard.
dayriesw is offline  
post #5481 of Old 10-28-2013, 09:37 AM
TURBevO8
Registered User
2006 TJ Wrangler 
 
Join Date: Nov 2008
Location: Chambersburg, PA
Posts: 871
Quote:
Originally Posted by Imped
LOL.....of course I'd run flareless.
Yeah I know. I was just saying that's not an option for me so I guess I'll cross my fingers every time out. Without flares I'd think anyone will be ok with Al.

2006 Impact Orange TJ X
2004 Apex Silver EVO VIII GSR
TURBevO8 is offline  
post #5482 of Old 10-28-2013, 12:07 PM
aw12345
Registered User
2004 TJ Wrangler 
 
Join Date: Oct 2006
Location: ontario
Posts: 7,237
Quote:
Originally Posted by dayriesw View Post
There is always a fiberglass hood option too. I cant remember the exact #s (they are in my build somewhere) but I think I saved about 10lbs per fenders side and ~20 lbs for the stock hood over my replacement hood. So if I removed about 30~40 lbs, you could add an engine cage or something more substantial out of dom tubing. Using 1 3/4" dom with 1/8 walls that weights about 2 lbs per foot, stay under 20 ft and you are at about stock weight on the front end with just as strong a set up as tube fenders with under the weight of aftermarket tube fenders. Plus, it is kind of stealth/stock which I like.
Making an engine cage would negate the weight savings. Front fender out of a singe steel tube clad with aluminum skin isn't a terribly bad idea and easy to repair when mangled

My Tinkering and wheeling thread http://tinyurl.com/pbwdm5u
aw12345 is offline  
post #5483 of Old 10-28-2013, 12:22 PM
dayriesw
Web Wheeler
 
dayriesw's Avatar
1987 MJ Comanche 
 
Join Date: Jul 2009
Location: Louisiana
Posts: 6,113
Quote:
Originally Posted by aw12345 View Post
Making an engine cage would negate the weight savings. Front fender out of a singe steel tube clad with aluminum skin isn't a terribly bad idea and easy to repair when mangled
That was my point (negate weight savings).... but I was comparing it to the stock fenders and hood which will weigh less than an aftermarket tube fender setup and stock modified hood.

06 WK 5.7 Hemi Overland
87 MJ Chief 57k original miles... getting built in the backyard.
dayriesw is offline  
post #5484 of Old 10-28-2013, 12:27 PM
aw12345
Registered User
2004 TJ Wrangler 
 
Join Date: Oct 2006
Location: ontario
Posts: 7,237
Quote:
Originally Posted by dayriesw View Post
That was my point (negate weight savings).... but I was comparing it to the stock fenders and hood which will weigh less than an aftermarket tube fender setup and stock modified hood.
Dunno about home made tube fenders weighing more than the stock fenders, mine are pretty light, 2 pieces of 1.5" tubing clad with aluminum skin. Still pretty strong since they did some rock rubbing and are no worse for wear

My Tinkering and wheeling thread http://tinyurl.com/pbwdm5u
aw12345 is offline  
post #5485 of Old 10-28-2013, 02:28 PM
JJeeper09
Registered User
2004 TJ Wrangler 
 
Join Date: Jul 2009
Location: Richmond
Posts: 2,188
What kind of cage will you build? Keeping stock B and C?
JJeeper09 is offline  
post #5486 of Old 10-28-2013, 03:26 PM
ksilovich
Registered User
1998 TJ Wrangler 
 
Join Date: Jul 2009
Location: Ottawa
Posts: 1,124
If your going to wheel hard. Id shy away from AL fenders. My passenger flair is F*****. And I built it out of 1.5 x 0.188 6061 tube. But then again I don't have a single straight AL panel anymore either

Jeffery 2.0 : Cummins 4bt, 40's, ORI's, D60, 14B, lots of AL
ksilovich is offline  
post #5487 of Old 10-28-2013, 03:51 PM
aw12345
Registered User
2004 TJ Wrangler 
 
Join Date: Oct 2006
Location: ontario
Posts: 7,237
Quote:
Originally Posted by ksilovich View Post
If your going to wheel hard. Id shy away from AL fenders. My passenger flair is F*****. And I built it out of 1.5 x 0.188 6061 tube. But then again I don't have a single straight AL panel anymore either
Point being steel tube is relatively light, strong and cheap.
Weld some tabs on it and bolt or rivet aluminum panels and you have a light easily repairable tube fender that gives the clearance you want

My Tinkering and wheeling thread http://tinyurl.com/pbwdm5u
aw12345 is offline  
post #5488 of Old 10-28-2013, 04:22 PM Thread Starter
Imped
Web Wheeler
 
Imped's Avatar
2004 TJ Wrangler 
 
Join Date: Feb 2008
Location: Indianapolis
Posts: 20,271
I'm not too worried about the hood and fenders right now. When I'm bored with nothing else to do, maybe I'll change it up.

On another note, I've been going through and really cleaning this thing up recently--cutting what I didn't like off the cage, cleaning up the fuel cell plumbing, adjusting the brake booster pushrod to take all of the slack out of the pedal, sealing up the soft top seams, etc. Adding to that, I've always had an intermittent dash squeak and it's driven me nuts for a long time. I finally decided to get down to business today and I found the source--apparently, the factory decided not to put nuts on 2 of the 4 upper dash retention studs. If you pull the defrost vent strip off you'll see M6 x 1.0 studs across the width of the tub that secure the main dash structure. The two outer studs had nuts but they were loose and the two inner studs were nutless. I picked up some M6 x 1.0 nylock nuts and some washers and torqued it all down. Tight, movement and squeak free dash.

Happy day.

OlllllllO
Float Test Build
IndyORV
Imped is online now  
post #5489 of Old 10-28-2013, 04:27 PM
aw12345
Registered User
2004 TJ Wrangler 
 
Join Date: Oct 2006
Location: ontario
Posts: 7,237
Quote:
Originally Posted by Imped View Post
I'm not too worried about the hood and fenders right now. When I'm bored with nothing else to do, maybe I'll change it up.

On another note, I've been going through and really cleaning this thing up recently--cutting what I didn't like off the cage, cleaning up the fuel cell plumbing, adjusting the brake booster pushrod to take all of the slack out of the pedal, sealing up the soft top seams, etc. Adding to that, I've always had an intermittent dash squeak and it's driven me nuts for a long time. I finally decided to get down to business today and I found the source--apparently, the factory decided not to put nuts on 2 of the 4 upper dash retention studs. If you pull the defrost vent strip off you'll see M6 x 1.0 studs across the width of the tub that secure the main dash structure. The two outer studs had nuts but they were loose and the two inner studs were nutless. I picked up some M6 x 1.0 nylock nuts and some washers and torqued it all down. Tight, movement and squeak free dash.

Happy day.
Had the same problem a while back could hear it over all the other racket same problem. Found it when I ripped a ton of wiring out from under the dash

My Tinkering and wheeling thread http://tinyurl.com/pbwdm5u
aw12345 is offline  
post #5490 of Old 10-28-2013, 04:35 PM
Jankoid
Registered User
2002 TJ Wrangler 
 
Join Date: Sep 2010
Location: Albemarle
Posts: 4,897
Quote:
Originally Posted by Imped View Post
I'm not too worried about the hood and fenders right now. When I'm bored with nothing else to do, maybe I'll change it up.

On another note, I've been going through and really cleaning this thing up recently--cutting what I didn't like off the cage, cleaning up the fuel cell plumbing, adjusting the brake booster pushrod to take all of the slack out of the pedal, sealing up the soft top seams, etc. Adding to that, I've always had an intermittent dash squeak and it's driven me nuts for a long time. I finally decided to get down to business today and I found the source--apparently, the factory decided not to put nuts on 2 of the 4 upper dash retention studs. If you pull the defrost vent strip off you'll see M6 x 1.0 studs across the width of the tub that secure the main dash structure. The two outer studs had nuts but they were loose and the two inner studs were nutless. I picked up some M6 x 1.0 nylock nuts and some washers and torqued it all down. Tight, movement and squeak free dash.

Happy day.
Did your jeep have an aftermarket head unit when you bought it? The center studs also secure the anti-theft bracket for the stock radio. Someone may have removed the anti-theft bracket and failed to re-install the nuts.
Jankoid is offline  
Reply

Tags
4 link , back half , bad cell pic's , batman , custom , garage queen , hendrix custom hood , indyorv , killer sa 4 link , ocd , pimpest jeep ever on 35s , rokmen hi lines , suspension calculator , the chit chat thread , the dark knight


Currently Active Users Viewing This Thread: 2 (1 members and 1 guests)
NWSquatch
Thread Tools
Show Printable Version Show Printable Version
Email this Page Email this Page



Similar Threads
Thread Thread Starter Jeep Forums Replies Last Post
picture test x99j Jeep Picture Requests 2 10-23-2011 09:56 PM
So test drove a ZJ and i had to test it out before i closed the deal! check these out xj287 Jeep Picture Requests 12 03-24-2011 01:01 PM
test 94-91 Jeep Builds 5 11-04-2008 08:55 PM
test LOCKED UP Jeep Builds 1 12-11-2003 03:13 PM

Posting Rules  
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is On
Trackbacks are Off
Pingbacks are On
Refbacks are On

For the best viewing experience please update your browser to Google Chrome