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Unread 10-28-2013, 07:35 AM   #5476
TURBevO8
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Had my genright highlines out the first time this weekend. Tapped the flare on a rock. Nothing major by any means. I can now fit my pinky between the fender and rocker guard where before the gap was 1/16" or so. Disappointed...

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Unread 10-28-2013, 07:41 AM   #5477
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Well....maybe not then.

Aluminum being used in that application appears to be sacrificial to save the tub. But if they sacrifice themselves well before tub damage even enters the equation then maybe I'll rethink that.
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Unread 10-28-2013, 07:51 AM   #5478
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If you run flare less you may be ok. No chance of passing inspection here in PA though. In fact so far nobody will pass it with 4" flares.
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Unread 10-28-2013, 07:54 AM   #5479
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LOL.....of course I'd run flareless.
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Unread 10-28-2013, 08:01 AM   #5480
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There is always a fiberglass hood option too. I cant remember the exact #s (they are in my build somewhere) but I think I saved about 10lbs per fenders side and ~20 lbs for the stock hood over my replacement hood. So if I removed about 30~40 lbs, you could add an engine cage or something more substantial out of dom tubing. Using 1 3/4" dom with 1/8 walls that weights about 2 lbs per foot, stay under 20 ft and you are at about stock weight on the front end with just as strong a set up as tube fenders with under the weight of aftermarket tube fenders. Plus, it is kind of stealth/stock which I like.
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Unread 10-28-2013, 09:37 AM   #5481
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Imped
LOL.....of course I'd run flareless.
Yeah I know. I was just saying that's not an option for me so I guess I'll cross my fingers every time out. Without flares I'd think anyone will be ok with Al.
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Unread 10-28-2013, 12:07 PM   #5482
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Originally Posted by dayriesw View Post
There is always a fiberglass hood option too. I cant remember the exact #s (they are in my build somewhere) but I think I saved about 10lbs per fenders side and ~20 lbs for the stock hood over my replacement hood. So if I removed about 30~40 lbs, you could add an engine cage or something more substantial out of dom tubing. Using 1 3/4" dom with 1/8 walls that weights about 2 lbs per foot, stay under 20 ft and you are at about stock weight on the front end with just as strong a set up as tube fenders with under the weight of aftermarket tube fenders. Plus, it is kind of stealth/stock which I like.
Making an engine cage would negate the weight savings. Front fender out of a singe steel tube clad with aluminum skin isn't a terribly bad idea and easy to repair when mangled
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Unread 10-28-2013, 12:22 PM   #5483
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Making an engine cage would negate the weight savings. Front fender out of a singe steel tube clad with aluminum skin isn't a terribly bad idea and easy to repair when mangled
That was my point (negate weight savings).... but I was comparing it to the stock fenders and hood which will weigh less than an aftermarket tube fender setup and stock modified hood.
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Unread 10-28-2013, 12:27 PM   #5484
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That was my point (negate weight savings).... but I was comparing it to the stock fenders and hood which will weigh less than an aftermarket tube fender setup and stock modified hood.
Dunno about home made tube fenders weighing more than the stock fenders, mine are pretty light, 2 pieces of 1.5" tubing clad with aluminum skin. Still pretty strong since they did some rock rubbing and are no worse for wear
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Unread 10-28-2013, 02:28 PM   #5485
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What kind of cage will you build? Keeping stock B and C?
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Unread 10-28-2013, 03:26 PM   #5486
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If your going to wheel hard. Id shy away from AL fenders. My passenger flair is F*****. And I built it out of 1.5 x 0.188 6061 tube. But then again I don't have a single straight AL panel anymore either
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Unread 10-28-2013, 03:51 PM   #5487
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ksilovich View Post
If your going to wheel hard. Id shy away from AL fenders. My passenger flair is F*****. And I built it out of 1.5 x 0.188 6061 tube. But then again I don't have a single straight AL panel anymore either
Point being steel tube is relatively light, strong and cheap.
Weld some tabs on it and bolt or rivet aluminum panels and you have a light easily repairable tube fender that gives the clearance you want
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Unread 10-28-2013, 04:22 PM   #5488
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I'm not too worried about the hood and fenders right now. When I'm bored with nothing else to do, maybe I'll change it up.

On another note, I've been going through and really cleaning this thing up recently--cutting what I didn't like off the cage, cleaning up the fuel cell plumbing, adjusting the brake booster pushrod to take all of the slack out of the pedal, sealing up the soft top seams, etc. Adding to that, I've always had an intermittent dash squeak and it's driven me nuts for a long time. I finally decided to get down to business today and I found the source--apparently, the factory decided not to put nuts on 2 of the 4 upper dash retention studs. If you pull the defrost vent strip off you'll see M6 x 1.0 studs across the width of the tub that secure the main dash structure. The two outer studs had nuts but they were loose and the two inner studs were nutless. I picked up some M6 x 1.0 nylock nuts and some washers and torqued it all down. Tight, movement and squeak free dash.

Happy day.
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Unread 10-28-2013, 04:27 PM   #5489
aw12345
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Imped View Post
I'm not too worried about the hood and fenders right now. When I'm bored with nothing else to do, maybe I'll change it up.

On another note, I've been going through and really cleaning this thing up recently--cutting what I didn't like off the cage, cleaning up the fuel cell plumbing, adjusting the brake booster pushrod to take all of the slack out of the pedal, sealing up the soft top seams, etc. Adding to that, I've always had an intermittent dash squeak and it's driven me nuts for a long time. I finally decided to get down to business today and I found the source--apparently, the factory decided not to put nuts on 2 of the 4 upper dash retention studs. If you pull the defrost vent strip off you'll see M6 x 1.0 studs across the width of the tub that secure the main dash structure. The two outer studs had nuts but they were loose and the two inner studs were nutless. I picked up some M6 x 1.0 nylock nuts and some washers and torqued it all down. Tight, movement and squeak free dash.

Happy day.
Had the same problem a while back could hear it over all the other racket same problem. Found it when I ripped a ton of wiring out from under the dash
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Unread 10-28-2013, 04:35 PM   #5490
Jankoid
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Imped View Post
I'm not too worried about the hood and fenders right now. When I'm bored with nothing else to do, maybe I'll change it up.

On another note, I've been going through and really cleaning this thing up recently--cutting what I didn't like off the cage, cleaning up the fuel cell plumbing, adjusting the brake booster pushrod to take all of the slack out of the pedal, sealing up the soft top seams, etc. Adding to that, I've always had an intermittent dash squeak and it's driven me nuts for a long time. I finally decided to get down to business today and I found the source--apparently, the factory decided not to put nuts on 2 of the 4 upper dash retention studs. If you pull the defrost vent strip off you'll see M6 x 1.0 studs across the width of the tub that secure the main dash structure. The two outer studs had nuts but they were loose and the two inner studs were nutless. I picked up some M6 x 1.0 nylock nuts and some washers and torqued it all down. Tight, movement and squeak free dash.

Happy day.
Did your jeep have an aftermarket head unit when you bought it? The center studs also secure the anti-theft bracket for the stock radio. Someone may have removed the anti-theft bracket and failed to re-install the nuts.
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