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post #5251 of 6519 Old 06-30-2013, 02:59 PM
SonicR1
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Yeah, that's an interesting location, could you just not drill a hole in the housing because of the truss?


... I guess I'm gonna have to fix that too…….

The TJ
2005 Wrangler X 4.0/6 speed, Dana 30/Ford 8.8--4.88--Eaton E-Lockers, 35" MT/R, Smittybilt bumpers/rockers/winch, SonicFab tire carrier, RE 3.5 springs, Zone 1.25 BL, FullTraction 3 link upper rear, RE super flex lower rears, UCF ultra high skid and lo/pro mount, brown dog mml.

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post #5252 of 6519 Old 06-30-2013, 03:10 PM
aw12345
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You can, just drill a larger hole through the truss so you can enter it with a socket

My Tinkering and wheeling thread http://tinyurl.com/pbwdm5u
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post #5253 of 6519 Old 06-30-2013, 04:02 PM
BamaJeepman21
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Imped View Post
Indy? Depending on the place and time, it's normally 3. Some go later, some close earlier if it's slow.
I think he meant Huntsville since we have an Embassy Suites downtown.



So I was thinking about how you moved the coil brackets around to sit 1.5" over stock with 3" coils and was wondering if you could elaborate on that. The idea really intrigues me if I ever want to move to 37's.

-Jack
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post #5254 of 6519 Old 06-30-2013, 04:58 PM Thread Starter
Imped
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Quote:
Originally Posted by aw12345 View Post
Is there adequate air pressure at the fitting on the diffcover? Next because of the fitting location, the copper line didn't kink or got ground away?
Doesn't seem like the best location to me. Does it leak air/ the compressor keeps running?
After much deliberation, that was really the best location. Copper line is fine but the end may be a little kinked shut. It's open but the ID is a little crimped. I'll open it up and give that a shot.

Remember, that's a bigger ring gear inside a TJ 44 housing....not enough room to run the copper line above the ring gear. So, even if I would've drilled through the truss and then into housing, I couldn't have got the line to it anyway....at least I don't think so. It's not the most traditional location for the bulkhead fitting but it works fine and is out of harm's way for the most part. I'm not the first person to do it that way and it's less of a PITA than it probably looks.

BTW, no leaks anywhere, at least not that my ears can detect. The compressor stops a few seconds after the locker is switched on and after about a minute, it has to kick back on. So, that's indicative of a leak at least.
Quote:
Originally Posted by SonicR1 View Post
Yeah, that's an interesting location, could you just not drill a hole in the housing because of the truss?
The bigger problem was running the copper line between the ring gear and housing.
Quote:
Originally Posted by aw12345 View Post
You can, just drill a larger hole through the truss so you can enter it with a socket
Addressed above.
Quote:
Originally Posted by BamaJeepman21 View Post
So I was thinking about how you moved the coil brackets around to sit 1.5" over stock with 3" coils and was wondering if you could elaborate on that. The idea really intrigues me if I ever want to move to 37's.
I built a custom rear frame and mounted the coil 'cylinders' as close to the tub as I could. They are where they are. That allows me to run longer coils for any given height and, therefore, be able to use more shock travel while remaining lower.

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post #5255 of 6519 Old 06-30-2013, 05:04 PM
BamaJeepman21
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Imped View Post
I built a custom rear frame and mounted the coil 'cylinders' as close to the tub as I could. They are where they are. That allows me to run longer coils for any given height and, therefore, be able to use more shock travel while remaining lower.
I knew the rear was custom and all but that answers my question. I was trying to think of how to do it with stock frame. I also should have specified I'm more interested in how the front was done.

Don't worry about it though. You answered my question and I'll go find some pictures.

edit: Here's some more broken Photobucket links. http://www.jeepforum.com/forum/f22/r...l#post14625091

-Jack
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post #5256 of 6519 Old 06-30-2013, 05:12 PM Thread Starter
Imped
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The front lower coil buckets are as low to the tube as I can get them. I also trimmed down the upper isolators by 1/2". Conveniently, the Jeep sits just slightly ***-high by about 3/8" across the length of the frame. Ride height is equivalent to about +1.5-2" and since I run longer coils than that (3") I can use 11" of travel. Both ends are darn near a perfect 50/50 split. Things are very, very close at full bump up front.

With a stock frame, you'll just want to section the area where you want them to sit and move them up. Before you go and hack on the stock frame, I'd make sure you're good and happy with where the axle is. Otherwise, don't bother until you've got the wheelbase you're happy with long-term.

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post #5257 of 6519 Old 06-30-2013, 05:30 PM
BamaJeepman21
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Imped View Post
The front lower coil buckets are as low to the tube as I can get them. I also trimmed down the upper isolators by 1/2". Conveniently, the Jeep sits just slightly ***-high by about 3/8" across the length of the frame. Ride height is equivalent to about +1.5-2" and since I run longer coils than that (3") I can use 11" of travel. Both ends are darn near a perfect 50/50 split. Things are very, very close at full bump up front.

With a stock frame, you'll just want to section the area where you want them to sit and move them up. Before you go and hack on the stock frame, I'd make sure you're good and happy with where the axle is. Otherwise, don't bother until you've got the wheelbase you're happy with long-term.
Was that a ninja edit?

Good to know. Really it's just a thought, as are most things of mine. I know you're familiar with how 55Willystruck cut and notched his frame to move the stock tank back and that's something I would do for a bit extra room. The wheelbase would probably wind up being around 95", if that, so no real wheelbase stretch.

I suppose it all matters on how the tire clears with my desired travel.


edit: I would also like to mention my Jeep sits exactly like yours in terms of frame and winshield. Except I'm on roughly 3.5" and 33's (32's )

-Jack
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post #5258 of 6519 Old 06-30-2013, 06:43 PM
dwbrown
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Is the line kinked at all? You could pull it off at the diff end and see if its got pressure.

USAF
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post #5259 of 6519 Old 06-30-2013, 07:17 PM Thread Starter
Imped
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Diff is open, found the problem. Had to leave to go see some fireworks but I'll get it back together tomorrow.

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post #5260 of 6519 Old 06-30-2013, 07:28 PM
SonicR1
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Sweet! Fix it Felix!

... I guess I'm gonna have to fix that too…….

The TJ
2005 Wrangler X 4.0/6 speed, Dana 30/Ford 8.8--4.88--Eaton E-Lockers, 35" MT/R, Smittybilt bumpers/rockers/winch, SonicFab tire carrier, RE 3.5 springs, Zone 1.25 BL, FullTraction 3 link upper rear, RE super flex lower rears, UCF ultra high skid and lo/pro mount, brown dog mml.

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post #5261 of 6519 Old 07-02-2013, 06:37 AM
Danno6102
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Imped View Post
Diff is open, found the problem. Had to leave to go see some fireworks but I'll get it back together tomorrow.
Seriously, just leave us hangin' like that? Glad you found it, but what was the problem man?

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post #5262 of 6519 Old 07-02-2013, 07:11 AM Thread Starter
Imped
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I'm a retard. Somewhere along the line, the copper hard line just barely started rubbing the ring gear and eventually it wore through. I didn't route it carefully enough. So, ARB has a new collar/line assembly shipping to me and I'll have it fixed in a couple hours once it arrives....and I'll make sure the line is routed a bit more smartly than it was.

When I saw that, I went full on furious on some cardboard boxes in my garage. If the neighbors across the street recorded the event, it would already have 1 million+ views on YouTube.

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post #5263 of 6519 Old 07-02-2013, 01:12 PM
REDLYNER
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Imped View Post
the copper hard line just barely started rubbing the ring gear and eventually it wore through. I didn't route it carefully enough. So, ARB has a new collar/line assembly shipping to me and I'll have it fixed in a couple hours once it arrives....
I had the exact same problem, it probably took two years for it to wear through. Did ARB warranty it?

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post #5264 of 6519 Old 07-02-2013, 01:33 PM Thread Starter
Imped
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They sure did. They're sending the part at no cost. I've never had to use their customer service before but it was everything I've heard.

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post #5265 of 6519 Old 07-02-2013, 01:36 PM
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They sure did. They're sending the part at no cost. I've never had to use their customer service before but it was everything I've heard.
Totally agree....King runs a close 2nd.

I don't look for problems....They find me.

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