'rock crawling go-cart' or something - Page 347 - JeepForum.com

 
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post #5191 of 6519 Old 06-23-2013, 04:36 PM
gspup
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Quote:
Originally Posted by aw12345
Here's an observation.
Looking at the front of all the Jeeps, guess which one has a JK Dana 44?
I was wondering why guys are always bending them out here...never noticed it was so exposed.


TJ build: http://www.jeepforum.com/forum/f22/ljs-devil-1329976/
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post #5192 of 6519 Old 06-23-2013, 04:39 PM Thread Starter
Imped
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They're low. That's why I'll be using Reid knuckles. At least that'll put the tie rod up to about where mine is now, which is above the axle tube center line.

OlllllllO
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post #5193 of 6519 Old 06-23-2013, 04:58 PM
aw12345
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Or get creative and swap the inner C's out so you have some better choices.

My Tinkering and wheeling thread http://tinyurl.com/pbwdm5u
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post #5194 of 6519 Old 06-23-2013, 05:25 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by aw12345 View Post
Or get creative and swap the inner C's out so you have some better choices.
I like this idea, find a Chevy cut the C's off and now you can have a high steer option and locking drive hubs.

Jason.

1993 YJ 4.0 60 Front, Rear steer 60, bolth spooled, 5.38's, 700r/241 39.5 iroks and beating it like it owes me money.

And on the 8th day, God created the 14 bolt...
http://www.jeepforum.com/forum/f149/...buggy-3693817/
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post #5195 of 6519 Old 06-23-2013, 05:33 PM Thread Starter
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Well, the JK44 I was going to get from Hendrix is damaged beyond repair...the center section is cracked from the accident it was in. So that's a no-go. I'm considering a couple different options but Currie just released a new HP44 center section and they are combining it with their new beefy forged JK inner C's with 3" tubes between them. The bare housing isn't badly priced. That would also allow me to run a Detroit instead of the JKR-specific ARB. That makes me happy.

I don't need the tie rod up any higher than the Reid's place it so that's a non-issue. I'll just build the tie rod strong enough to take a good hit every now and again.

OlllllllO
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post #5196 of 6519 Old 06-23-2013, 06:16 PM
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Detroit in the steering axle is silly, I don't care what savvy and the rest say...you're not a comp vehicle making 1k whp

Ox or auburn/ected e locker is the only way to go. A damaged electrical line is way less finicky/pain in the *** to repair than a damaged air line.
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post #5197 of 6519 Old 06-23-2013, 06:24 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Mol
Detroit in the steering axle is silly, I don't care what savvy and the rest say...you're not a comp vehicle making 1k whp

Ox or auburn/ected e locker is the only way to go. A damaged electrical line is way less finicky/pain in the *** to repair than a damaged air line.
what does a Detroit in the front have to do with horsepower??

Also. Ox and the ected are junk. Detroit or arb is the only way to go up front

I would not use ox's or ected's if you gave them to me



back on topic:


Personally Conner. If your gonna start getting custom housing and stuff made. I would not bother with the Jk outers. A hybrid 44 with one ton outers would be a much wiser investment IMO

SAVVY,CURRIE,GOODYEAR

Nuff said...
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post #5198 of 6519 Old 06-23-2013, 06:31 PM
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OK, guy.

Horsepower helps a great deal when finesse cant be combined with turning radius, and pushing ensues.

Have had twice the trouble out of the ARB in our Toyota than the e locker in the jk44. Have had more trouble from the ox in the TJ than the e locker, but that's only been a function of the shifter linkage.

If you wouldn't use ox or ected if they were given to you, you need kicked in the dick, because we dont need any more retarded children running around than we have already.
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post #5199 of 6519 Old 06-23-2013, 06:43 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Mol
OK, guy.

Horsepower helps a great deal when finesse cant be combined with turning radius, and pushing ensues.

Have had twice the trouble out of the ARB in our Toyota than the e locker in the jk44. Have had more trouble from the ox in the TJ than the e locker, but that's only been a function of the shifter linkage.

If you wouldn't use ox or ected if they were given to you, you need kicked in the dick, because we dont need any more retarded children running around than we have already.
Mr cool guy has to start calling names :thumbsdown:

Its ok Im not gonna clog conners thread dealing with your insecurities

Lesson for everyone

Never argue with an idiot. They will drag you down to there level and beat you with experience

SAVVY,CURRIE,GOODYEAR

Nuff said...
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post #5200 of 6519 Old 06-23-2013, 06:47 PM
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Never argue with an idiot. They will drag you down to there level and beat you with experience
Oh, yeah?

Edit: Sorry Imped, back to subject
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post #5201 of 6519 Old 06-23-2013, 06:52 PM
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I don't need the tie rod up any higher than the Reid's place it so that's a non-issue. I'll just build the tie rod strong enough to take a good hit every now and again.
__________________

That's what I originally thought, now that you are thinking about buying/ building a custom axle get your steering up as high as you can.
In the long run you will be glad you did, you are pretty OCD Connor and in the end you will be much happier just knowing, you made it the best it can be

My Tinkering and wheeling thread http://tinyurl.com/pbwdm5u
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post #5202 of 6519 Old 06-23-2013, 06:56 PM
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Originally Posted by aw12345 View Post
I don't need the tie rod up any higher than the Reid's place it so that's a non-issue. I'll just build the tie rod strong enough to take a good hit every now and again.
__________________

That's what I originally thought, now that you are thinking about buying/ building a custom axle get your steering up as high as you can.
In the long run you will be glad you did, you are pretty OCD Connor and in the end you will be much happier just knowing, you made it the best it can be
Fwiw, my tie rod hasn't taken a hit substantial enough that I was aware of it since installing the Reid knuckles...if it did, the 1 5/8" 4130 that Currie is using now would take the wrath of god to do permanent damage.
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post #5203 of 6519 Old 06-23-2013, 07:07 PM
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Originally Posted by Mol View Post
Fwiw, my tie rod hasn't taken a hit substantial enough that I was aware of it since installing the Reid knuckles...if it did, the 1 5/8" 4130 that Currie is using now would take the wrath of god to do permanent damage.
Bigger rocks tend to cause more interference issues, I prefer to not hit the tierod if at all possible. Make it unbendable or close to that then steering arms or tierod ends give way. Will your setup work and survive? Most likely it will, but why take the change on it, if you are at a stage where you can resolve that issue. Seems like a no brainer to me, but that is just me

My Tinkering and wheeling thread http://tinyurl.com/pbwdm5u
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post #5204 of 6519 Old 06-23-2013, 07:22 PM
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I hear what you're saying totally, but his setup is/will be exactly mine. 37s, jk44 with Reid knuckles, and probably a slightly smaller diameter tie rod than mine, and good driving equals zero to negligible tie rod interference...point the tires at the biggest obstacles on the trail and I have nothing to worry about.

Reid has already done the work, so its guaranteed there are no geometrical issues.

While the pic may not show it well, this was an "impassable" obstacle loaded with really big boulders and one big undercut shelf. If something was going to get in the way of the tie rod, it would have happened here.

Edit - sorry that was the wrong pic...here it is




I understand making a plan of action and doing it right, but there's a fine line between that and over thinking something that's really not all that difficult to begin with. The setup works, it really does, and requires little thought and effort.

I'd spend more time focusing on the lower control arm brackets and rear lower shock mounts than the tie rod, after throwing on Ried knuckles.
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post #5205 of 6519 Old 06-23-2013, 08:10 PM
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Originally Posted by Mol View Post
I hear what you're saying totally, but his setup is/will be exactly mine. 37s, jk44 with Reid knuckles, and probably a slightly smaller diameter tie rod than mine, and good driving equals zero to negligible tie rod interference...point the tires at the biggest obstacles on the trail and I have nothing to worry about.

Reid has already done the work, so its guaranteed there are no geometrical issues.

While the pic may not show it well, this was an "impassable" obstacle loaded with really big boulders and one big undercut shelf. If something was going to get in the way of the tie rod, it would have happened here.

Edit - sorry that was the wrong pic...here it is




I understand making a plan of action and doing it right, but there's a fine line between that and over thinking something that's really not all that difficult to begin with. The setup works, it really does, and requires little thought and effort.

I'd spend more time focusing on the lower control arm brackets and rear lower shock mounts than the tie rod, after throwing on Ried knuckles.

Sometimes there are just big boulders and the front axle plus steering needs to be pushed over it, no other way possible, no bypass and the tow truck don't go there. In my case there is nothing that hangs under the axle tubes, nothing that hangs below the frame, steering is mounted as high as absolutely possible with my stretch. Did everything possible to get the most clearance with the minimum amount of lift necessary for the trails I like to run
At this point Connor is not limited by a stock axle, so he can mix and match whatever parts he pleases , so why not go for the best option instead of one that is acceptable.

My Tinkering and wheeling thread http://tinyurl.com/pbwdm5u
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