'rock crawling go-cart' or something - Page 237 - JeepForum.com

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post #3541 of 6549 Old 05-31-2012, 08:59 AM
gribbles
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Imped View Post
So which one is it?
either?



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post #3542 of 6549 Old 05-31-2012, 12:06 PM
aw12345
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Question for ya Connor, what compelled you to raise the rear frame?
I had originally thought about it and after linking the axle found that for me there really wasn't a logical reason to make myself that much work.
I have yet to drag the rear crossmember on anything and trust me I have tried
You had to raise it to get room for the springs? I know the axle will clear the frame at full bump, doesn't look like you narrowed the rear frame?
Which would actually have been a good idea since you are there and you have been contemplating ORI's. It's a pain to have to do things twice.
Another question about JK axles, when I picked up my new sneakers from a friend we were talking about his JK, to date he has killed 3 rear lockers and he doesn't really wheel it that hard, you guys seen that as a common thing?
He bought the blingy chromemolly axles and it seems he gets to replace those when he sticks an ARB in the rear since those supposedly use a larger axle shaft, kinda puts a damper on the JK Dana 44 happiness.

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post #3543 of 6549 Old 05-31-2012, 12:36 PM Thread Starter
Imped
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Art,

I cut the rear frame off with no set plan at the time. It would've been more work than it was worth to cut the existing upper shock mounts and coil mounts (both aftermarket and not in original locations) out and then make that work with the new plans--so I just cut the frame off with full intentions to come up with something that will work better. When deciding on how to do the frame, I knew that I didn't want a big xmember/bumper below the tub (had hit and bent mine in several runs in a row and that gets old, plus I knew I could increase clearance back there by a lot) and the original plans had one running across the valance.....but I also didn't want to cut that whole valance/body mount section out because it helps support the tub. Once I started throwing steel around, it was just easier to run a piece straight back through the tub. No bends and it was continuous, so no welded sections. I've got the top edge of the frame running even with the tub seam, about 1" outside the tub if I remember right. Whatever the measurement is, it's consistent side-to-side. The way in which I did the coil buckets allows me to run longer 2.5-3" coils (instead of the stockers I was forced to run in order to be level with 3" front springs) because the upper coil mount surface is less than 1/2" below the tub. The buckets are "cylinders" made from 1/4" that are frenched into the frame rails. They'll act as coil retainers and since the upper mount is up so high, will allow me to run longer coils (that can run longer shocks without unseating) to achieve my desired height.

As for narrowing the rear frame, that would have made the logistics of positioning the frame in such a way to allow for long coils tough to impossible. Plus, it wouldn't have allowed me to use the bottom inner bolt for the corners.....that bolt alone dictated how far in I could tuck the frame rails and I want that bolt in place.....I 'could have' done some fancy work by running the main rail closer to the tub seam and then widen it back out before going through the tub (which I considered), but I would've gained less than an inch in width, would have made fitting the under-tub body mount pucks next to the coil cylinders very tricky, and would've gone away from a continuous piece of rectangular tubing. IF I switch to ORI's in the future, the plan is to torch out the coil cylinders and just fill in the space with plate (wouldn't be too tough). All welds are pretty easily accessible so that won't be too tough. But I think it's fair to say that I'm content with coils as long as I can run longer ones, which I can now. If that wasn't the case, I'd already have ORI's under the rig. Plus, ORI's won't enter the plan until it has wider axles under it so the logistics of actually fitting them will be simple......and you know what wider axles means. I've kept that chapter open with everything I've done--suspension wouldn't have to be touched, wheelbase is now set for 100"+, and the frame would be easy to modify. But until I've got a reason, 35" tires and my current axles aren't limiting me--the wheelbase was. Now that's a non-issue, and I've made some other improvements during that time.

As for the JK 44's, personally I dig em. I don't know about the issues you speak of so maybe James and Hendrix would be better fellas to ask since they run them. Always a pleasure good sir.

OlllllllO

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post #3544 of 6549 Old 05-31-2012, 01:45 PM
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You bet your ***.




And FYI, my buddy is selling his TJ. 97 Sahara with Rubi rear 44, UCF skid, SYE/double cardan shaft, Currie rear uppers, late-model gas tank skid, 33x10.50 BFG AT's and Ford 5.0 under the hood. $6k takes it....PM me if interested.
Thanks for the plug in your thread Connor . I'll toss the link to my for sale ad in here and then I won't post anymore about it, so if anyone is interested in the Jeep, please don't post here, just text/call the number in the ad so we dont derail Connor's build thread haha

http://www.jeepforum.com/forum/f153/...rd-v8-1375520/

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My build thread:
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post #3545 of 6549 Old 05-31-2012, 01:51 PM
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I did the same thing to my frame, chopped it off with no real plans what i'd do. Started building one that kind of Z'd like the old frame and realized i was putting to much work into it, made the frame rails go straight back out the tub and tucked up nicely, was a lot easier and i think will be alot cleaner once put back together.

Do you have any other shots of the frame and what are you doing about the crossmember you cut out thats above the axle?


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post #3546 of 6549 Old 05-31-2012, 02:44 PM
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The rear frame is all I've thought about today. Thanks guys. I was gunna start mine now so when I stretch it wont be as much of an issue, but now I want to do something trick like tube all the way back, high clearance, and light. But I need to bribe my buddy to sell me his bender and die set for a deal.

Once I get a bender and another welder I'm in trouble


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post #3547 of 6549 Old 05-31-2012, 02:46 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by LilSteve97TJ
I did the same thing to my frame, chopped it off with no real plans what i'd do. Started building one that kind of Z'd like the old frame and realized i was putting to much work into it, made the frame rails go straight back out the tub and tucked up nicely, was a lot easier and i think will be alot cleaner once put back together.

Do you have any other shots of the frame and what are you doing about the crossmember you cut out thats above the axle?
Its tube, did he post this? Sorry Connor I that is too much of a teaser for them, now you'll get a ton more questions
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image-1244030877.jpg  


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post #3548 of 6549 Old 05-31-2012, 03:12 PM
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Its tube, did he post this? Sorry Connor I that is too much of a teaser for them, now you'll get a ton more questions
Came out nice, the reason for asking is this, if there is a valid need it's the way to go if all this cutting is done because the cool kids do it, it's a terrible waste of time. Doing this takes some thinking time to come up with a good plan, otherwise you open a can of worms that is going to take a whole bunch of work to fix. Connor seems to put a lot of thought into what he does. Was just wondering what the thought process behind it was.

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post #3549 of 6549 Old 05-31-2012, 03:52 PM Thread Starter
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Yep, I knew it would be a lot of work and it has been.....realistically, if I had taken a week off work and actually devoted the time to the Jeep it would've been done a long time ago. I haven't been working on it as much as I should be and I'm gonna try to use this weekend to really hammer some stuff out since it'll be cool. But you're right, it took me several weeks to even get a good start on the frame.....that's probably the whole reason I tore apart and redid the front end--because I didn't have a plan for the frame. Once I locked down and decided how I wanted to do it, I started measuring, cutting the steel and mocking it up. Now I just need to plate it and the frame will be done......then it's just armor, paint, exhaust, little stuff.

OlllllllO

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post #3550 of 6549 Old 06-01-2012, 05:28 PM
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You know the first hour of the BL parking lot will be us under your jeep oooh'ing and ahhh'ing It will be exciting to see all of your commited hard work Conner.


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post #3551 of 6549 Old 06-01-2012, 06:00 PM Thread Starter
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Ahhh rubbish! It's practically the same old rig.

OlllllllO

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post #3552 of 6549 Old 06-01-2012, 06:11 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Imped
Ahhh rubbish! It's practically the same old rig.
Blah blah blah...



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post #3553 of 6549 Old 06-01-2012, 06:39 PM
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http://www.jeepforum.com/forum/attac...age-1244030877


This still needs a ton of welding, better have another 8 lbs spool of wire and a full bottle of gas on hand, some extra tips wouldn't hurt either

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post #3554 of 6549 Old 06-01-2012, 09:21 PM Thread Starter
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You're telling me.

That's an old picture. As of tonight, the frame is fully welded. I've been stitching it slowly over the last couple weeks and finally finished up tonight.....did overhead welding for an hour tonight () and burnt in the first of 8 fish plates.

Once the fish plates are burned in and and the frame is frenched for the shocks, the frame will be done. It's a lofty goal, but I'm gonna try to finish it tomorrow so that I can start buttoning up everything.

OlllllllO

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post #3555 of 6549 Old 06-01-2012, 11:00 PM
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You're telling me.

That's an old picture. As of tonight, the frame is fully welded. I've been stitching it slowly over the last couple weeks and finally finished up tonight.....did overhead welding for an hour tonight () and burnt in the first of 8 fish plates.

Once the fish plates are burned in and and the frame is frenched for the shocks, the frame will be done. It's a lofty goal, but I'm gonna try to finish it tomorrow so that I can start buttoning up everything.
Overhead welding takes a bit of practice, you'll get better at it

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