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Unread 11-18-2013, 12:23 PM   #76
Meepz
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1990 YJ Wrangler 
 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by laybackman View Post

I agree!

This YJ sat for ten years IIRC. That carb probably looks like the inside of an old varnish bucket. If that carb is what I think it is it is a Carter 8383 or 8394 carb.
It's not the same carb that was in it when I brought it home. I bought a used carb and put that one in. The old one was nice and toasted. I cleaned the one that's currently installed a few days ago and it's pretty clean.

I'll try to get a rebuild kit for it today and follow the instructions from the link you posted.

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Unread 11-18-2013, 01:24 PM   #77
laybackman
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Meepz View Post
It's not the same carb that was in it when I brought it home. I bought a used carb and put that one in. The old one was nice and toasted. I cleaned the one that's currently installed a few days ago and it's pretty clean.

I'll try to get a rebuild kit for it today and follow the instructions from the link you posted.
Thought; If the carb you bought was not off a "with your own eyes you saw running engine" that 'new' carb could be worst than the one it replaced!!
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Unread 11-18-2013, 01:31 PM   #78
Meepz
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Quote:
Originally Posted by laybackman View Post

Thought; If the carb you bought was not off a "with your own eyes you saw running engine" that 'new' carb could be worst than the one it replaced!!
I would've thought that too, but this carb actually ran fine when I first got it on and a while after that. It stopped starting but was fine after I replaced the ignition coil. Now this problem recently came out of nowhere, haha. I don't think this jeep likes me very well. :P
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Unread 11-18-2013, 07:58 PM   #79
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Got the kit. I'll carefully go over everything and get the carb put back on in the morning. I'll report here with the results after.
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Unread 11-19-2013, 01:36 PM   #80
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Well, got the carb in and what do ya know...it starts again!

The only weird things I noticed was the small metal ball in the wrong part of the carb and a piece of the metering rod was melted and broken off under the piston assembly. Luckily, I still had my old toasted carb and the metering rod was a bit dirty, but in pretty good shape on that one. The float was also not set at the correct height. Here's a few pics:


Here's some pics of when I cleaned it a few nights ago. Those spots wouldn't come out even after letting it soak for a while. It was also smooth to the touch like the stuff wasn't even there:





Here's a pic of the metering rods. The bottom left piece was broken and the tab was melted on the right one.




Now for another problem...yay. It starts right up now although it's not idling correctly. This is probably a result of the carb not being adjusted, right? The thing is, the adjustment screws aren't really doing anything. When turning them in/out, the vacuum gauge is just sitting comfty around 20. No matter how far in/out the screws are. The RPM's bounce around from 10-20 and the jeep dies after tapping the gas.
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Unread 11-19-2013, 08:15 PM   #81
laybackman
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Meepz View Post
Well, got the carb in and what do ya know...it starts again!

The only weird things I noticed was the small metal ball in the wrong part of the carb and a piece of the metering rod was melted and broken off under the piston assembly. Luckily, I still had my old toasted carb and the metering rod was a bit dirty, but in pretty good shape on that one. The float was also not set at the correct height. Here's a few pics:


Here's some pics of when I cleaned it a few nights ago. Those spots wouldn't come out even after letting it soak for a while. It was also smooth to the touch like the stuff wasn't even there:





Here's a pic of the metering rods. The bottom left piece was broken and the tab was melted on the right one.




Now for another problem...yay. It starts right up now although it's not idling correctly. This is probably a result of the carb not being adjusted, right? The thing is, the adjustment screws aren't really doing anything. When turning them in/out, the vacuum gauge is just sitting comfty around 20. No matter how far in/out the screws are. The RPM's bounce around from 10-20 and the jeep dies after tapping the gas.
One possibility; Youtube can be a very valuable tool.

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Unread 03-31-2014, 03:28 PM   #82
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Well, finally got back to working on the poor sahara. It ran for a while, but ended up going in and out a few days ago. Replaced the ignition coil (again), distributor cap and rotor, but it still didn't start so my guess is the ICM again. I'll be ordering one today.

Also, today I was in the process of fixing dents and taking the front bumper off so I can get a new one ordered, but I guess the bumper had other plans. 3 bolts came out fine, 1 broke off and the other one is stripped. Great. Should I just grind it off and drill it out or what?

Edit: Scratch the bumper question. Grinder + Hammer = Win


Few pics:

Before Bumper Removed:


After Bumper Removed:


Rusted Bolts:



Next up is getting that front fender replaced, fixing the dents (trying) then getting it painted.
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Unread 04-02-2014, 09:24 AM   #83
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The slide hammer was a bit annoying. It kept slipping off and the studs kept coming off, so I ordered a Stud Lever. It came today about 2 days in advance. I'll try this out later on and hopefully I didn't waste 40 bucks. I've seen nothing but good reviews, so I'm hoping it'll be as good as they say.

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Unread 04-03-2014, 01:50 PM   #84
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The stud lever seems to work better than the slide hammer, but it's too cold today for body work.

So, I got the ICM today that I bought a few days ago. Installed it and what do ya know....it still doesn't start. This problem again, yay... -_-

Removed all the spark plug wires and plugged them back in, so now it starts. It's running a bit rough though...
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Unread 04-03-2014, 06:10 PM   #85
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Figured out (I think) that it was the Ignition Coil Connector. Seems to be a shortage in it somewhere, so I'll pick a new one up along with a new set of spark plug wires tomorrow. Body work will continue sunday when it's warmer. Hopefully I can get the bondo on and post a pic of my crappy job soon after.
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Unread 04-05-2014, 09:57 PM   #86
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Got the Ignition Coil Connector and new ignition wires in and she fired right up. The connector was the culprit after all.

Also bondo'd the left quarter panel and that looks 100 times better already. The corners and right quarter panel are being a pain, but that'll hopefully change tomorrow. It's kinda hard getting the metal back to the shape it was before. And the bolts on those fender flares....rusted to crap. Took some snips and cut em off, then realized all I had to do was spin the plastic washer off, lol. There's definitely a big difference though in the dented areas since I posted the pics on the first page.
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Unread 04-06-2014, 10:33 PM   #87
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I give up with the dents, lol. The corner dent on the right side (where the tire stopper was) is just too bent. It won't even bulge. I'll be taking the jeep to someone with a bit more experience tomorrow for an estimate. I'll do the paint myself though. Probably the roll-on method.
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Unread 04-10-2014, 12:20 PM   #88
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Changed the front brakes/rotors and rear brake shoes. Also got the alternator replaced.

Still looking for a body shop to get it to today so the rear dents can be fixed. Getting closer to my screwup paint job.
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Unread 04-21-2014, 03:07 PM   #89
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Finally stopped my procrastinating and got it to the bodywork guy today, woo hoo! It also ran out of gas right when I got it there, lol. Something with the gas gauge doesn't work so I guess I'll fix that soon. It's not the gauge itself since I've had it replaced. It stays completely full when there's any amount of gas in it. Once the tank goes empty, the gauge starts dropping. Fuel sending unit, maybe? I dunno.

Any-who, hopefully I'll be able to slap some new paint on this week.
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Unread 04-21-2014, 03:15 PM   #90
laybackman
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Meepz View Post
Finally stopped my procrastinating and got it to the bodywork guy today, woo hoo! It also ran out of gas right when I got it there, lol. Something with the gas gauge doesn't work so I guess I'll fix that soon. It's not the gauge itself since I've had it replaced. Fuel sending unit, maybe? I dunno.

Any-who, hopefully I'll be able to slap some new paint on this week.
This is an excerpt from an outline of the ignition circuit for a YJ I have been trying to get into a format that can be read by someone as simple as me....It hasn't been easy

FUEL LEVEL SENSOR
The fuel level sensor is a variable resistor. Circuit G4 connects the fuel level sensor to the fuel gauge in the instrument cluster.
• Circuit G5 from fuse 9 in the fuse block supplies voltage to the fuel gauge. The fuel level sensor draws voltage from circuit G5 through the fuel gauge on circuit G4.
• Circuit Z2 provides the ground path for the fuel level sensor.

HELPFUL INFORMATION
As the current flows through the coils in the fuel gauge, it creates a magnetic field. One of the coils in the gauge receives fixed current. The other coil is connected to the level sensor. The magnetic field controls the position of the fuel gauge pointer.
The fuel level sensor contains a variable resistor. As the position of the float arm on the fuel level sensor changes, the resistor changes the current flow through second coil in the field gauge. A change in current flow alters the magnetic field in the level gauge, which changes the pointer position.

So, if the gauge is off it could be faulty, loose or corroded connections or wiring, or the gauge is NG.
__________________
Chicks dig me.....Fish fear me

Getting older, I have developed some special skills. I have the ability to cough, sneeze, fart and pee at the same time.

"If we cannot afford to take care of Veterans, then we should stop making them."
David C. Wilker Jr. USAF (RET)
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