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Unread 06-09-2014, 04:48 PM   #1
ccoor
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Rebuild on a 2006 LJ

Recently sold my 2006 LJ with 4.0,six speed to move up to a jeep that has almost all the parts I had to buy for my old 2006 LJ.,but could not afford. Buying another 2006 LJ with most of the parts already installed,but at a big savings made sense.
The new 2006 came with 37" tires on Walker Evans beadlocks, Dynatrac Prorock 60, King 2 1/2 coilovers, 5.7 Hemi with 545RFE auto trans, Atlas 4 speed transfer case, Rock hard armor and rollbar, GenRight 6" tube fenders.

Since most to the items have already been installed, I decided to call it a REBUILD.
I'd like to go through this rebuild step by step in the process of turning this well equipped Jeep into MY well equipped Jeep. Steps I took and any input or knowledge from others would be appreciated.

Since this Jeep is new to me I want to break down all systems starting with safety, function, looks

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Unread 06-09-2014, 11:01 PM   #2
ccoor
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While making a list of problems with the new jeep I found a problem that needed to be fixed right away. The exhaust was run just above the tri-link for the rear suspension.
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Unread 06-10-2014, 04:06 PM   #3
84jeepcj7rock
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Can't tell how much clearance there is or how much up travel you have. That close to the frame mount, the link shouldn't travel that far.
Great looking clean Jeep. I love the fact that 95% of people would have no clue how custom it is.
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Unread 06-10-2014, 06:01 PM   #4
ccoor
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There is no clearance, contact to upper control and body leaving NO bump travel.
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Unread 06-10-2014, 07:44 PM   #5
tkfx
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Wow look at that swaybar angle in the first pic! That does not look right at all!
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Unread 06-10-2014, 08:12 PM   #6
06-TJ
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@tkfx it does look a little steep to me too. Almost looks like its been disconnected
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Unread 06-10-2014, 10:09 PM   #7
ccoor
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Sway bar angle is way too high. I lowered the jeep down causing the angle of the sway bar to be too high. needs to be down level to the frame. First I need to get caster set right (now at 16 degrees) and exhaust downstream of Manifold moved to avoid the front upper control arm from hitting exhaust.
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Unread 06-10-2014, 10:46 PM   #8
ccoor
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Working on getting black steel rims off and Walker Evans beadlocks on.
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Unread 06-10-2014, 10:57 PM   #9
ccoor
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I was able to remove beadlock rings with only 4 certs coming out of one rim
I ordered 20 certs from Walker Evans just in case I needed more in the future. Cleaned out threads on rims with a 5/16-18 sti tap before placing insert in rim.
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Unread 06-11-2014, 07:20 AM   #10
dayriesw
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Nice pick up on the LJ. Are you going to paint those aluminum fenders?
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Impact Orange LJ - DD...sitting low, flat bottomed, fully armored and locked on 37s
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Unread 06-11-2014, 01:54 PM   #11
ccoor
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dayriesw paint for the fenders is coming as soon as I figure out the armor changes. Is your armor and fenders alum. or steel. how well does the paint hold up. Your LJ looks great, not sure if i'm going black or red.
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Unread 06-11-2014, 02:29 PM   #12
dayriesw
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ccoor View Post
dayriesw paint for the fenders is coming as soon as I figure out the armor changes. Is your armor and fenders alum. or steel. how well does the paint hold up. Your LJ looks great, not sure if i'm going black or red.
Rear corners and armor in front of doors are aluminum. Sliders and bumpers are steel. They were all powdercoated the first time through but I stripped it down and spray painted it all black for ease of touching it up. I might strip it again at the end of the year and get it color match..... And thanks
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Impact Orange LJ - DD...sitting low, flat bottomed, fully armored and locked on 37s
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Unread 06-11-2014, 02:34 PM   #13
Mulvihill64
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dayriesw View Post
Rear corners and armor in front of doors are aluminum. Sliders and bumpers are steel. They were all powdercoated the first time through but I stripped it down and spray painted it all black for ease of touching it up. I might strip it again at the end of the year and get it color match..... And thanks
Color match would look sweet IMHO
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Unread 06-13-2014, 05:11 PM   #14
ccoor
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Changing the rims over to Walker Evans I could see the wheel studs needed some attention. Every axle had at least one bad stud, so I changed all the studs on the rear axle and a few to the front axles. The front axles were easy with all the space behind the rotors. The rears would require a little more work. In the photos below I placed a brass hammer on the bad stud and struck the brass with a 10 hammer. The new studs were drawn in with and old lug nut with washers to protect the threads. The rear axles needed no be removed before wheel studs could be removed. While doing the axle removal I decided to remove the bearings and seals while every thing was apart.


My Prorocks 60's use Timken set 20 bearings. also the outer race stays inside the axle tube.
I had to get a little creative putting a slide hammer together with a craftsman gear puller to get the race.
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