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Unread 11-27-2011, 04:07 PM   #46
Necromancer_tat
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Originally Posted by TJRHD View Post
Every time I read the name of this thread I think of Sublime
Lmao! I never thought of that!

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Unread 11-27-2011, 04:09 PM   #47
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Originally Posted by rocko-n-miss View Post
Yep 220v shielded gas. I want to get a TIG gun for it as well. I'm looking forward to trying some aluminum parts here and there on mine.
Sweetness! Sounds like a good Christmas present to me!
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Unread 11-29-2011, 12:44 AM   #48
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How do you like those baja claws ttc? Im in the market for some tires, also how is the tread life looking so far?
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Unread 11-29-2011, 01:19 AM   #49
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Necromancer_tat View Post

And with the control arm reinstalled, and shot with a quick coat or rustoleum rust preventative black paint.
I could be wrong but isnt half the reason for installing that currie uca mount/joint to make the mount stonger than before? I feel like if you dont weld it to the axle tube, and only to the stock mount, then its no stronger than the stock mount its welded to. Am I wrong?

Your jeep is coming along nicely though
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Unread 11-29-2011, 01:43 AM   #50
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Your going to want to brace that mount. The way it is now will rip off very easily. And yes i would burn it to the axle housing.
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Unread 11-29-2011, 02:16 AM   #51
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Originally Posted by Zacb262 View Post
How do you like those baja claws ttc? Im in the market for some tires, also how is the tread life looking so far?
I love them! I haven't wheeled on them yet though so I can't comment one way or the other on their trail useage. On the street they're a lot quieter than other off road tires I've had in the past.
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Unread 11-29-2011, 02:21 AM   #52
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mg2000xj View Post
I could be wrong but isnt half the reason for installing that currie uca mount/joint to make the mount stonger than before? I feel like if you dont weld it to the axle tube, and only to the stock mount, then its no stronger than the stock mount its welded to. Am I wrong?

Your jeep is coming along nicely though
Quote:
Originally Posted by LilSteve97TJ View Post
Your going to want to brace that mount. The way it is now will rip off very easily. And yes i would burn it to the axle housing.
That's the same way I've seen it installed in all of the other Jeeps that I've seen running the JJ kit. When it's sitting inside the factory mount the bottom of the bushing tower doesn't sit flush with the axle tube, it's slightly twisted and the edges are raised up a bit. If you can find a picture of it done differently please post it up here so I can get a better look at how it was done and maybe redo mine. Thanks!
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Unread 11-29-2011, 05:20 AM   #53
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Necromancer_tat View Post
That's the same way I've seen it installed in all of the other Jeeps that I've seen running the JJ kit. When it's sitting inside the factory mount the bottom of the bushing tower doesn't sit flush with the axle tube, it's slightly twisted and the edges are raised up a bit. If you can find a picture of it done differently please post it up here so I can get a better look at how it was done and maybe redo mine. Thanks!
Mine was the same way, I beat on it with a bfh trying to flush it. I think its too thick on the back side to fit between the uca bracket and the axle because you can sit it on the axle outside of the bracket and it is fine.
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Unread 11-29-2011, 07:53 AM   #54
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Originally Posted by TJRHD View Post
Mine was the same way, I beat on it with a bfh trying to flush it. I think its too thick on the back side to fit between the uca bracket and the axle because you can sit it on the axle outside of the bracket and it is fine.
That's the same way I felt while we were doing it, I wasn't so sure I wanted to leave it that way, but the pictures we could find were burnt in the same way, I don't mind running some passes along the tube if you want to get it back over here! We need to finish up the rear and springs anyways!

I snapped a few pics. of you under there grinding here you go:
sway-bar-bushings-016.jpg   sway-bar-bushings-013.jpg   sway-bar-bushings-015.jpg  
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Unread 11-29-2011, 08:23 AM   #55
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Lol! Thanks Rocko!
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Unread 12-02-2011, 02:40 PM   #56
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How to properly adjust Currie control arms.

I just got off the phone with Mr.Blaine, I asked him a few questions and he shared some very helpful information with me reguarding the proper way of setting up an adjustable control arm 4 link plus trackbar front end.

Here is what he recomended to me:

1. Make sure the vehicle is sitting on flat level ground and at ride height.

2. Install both lower control arms and make sure the axle is square under the frame.

3. Set pinion angle to desired position.

4. Install 1 upper arm leaving the control arm mounting bolts loose.

5. Lower floor jack from under pinion.

6. Check for axle to frame squareness again.

7. Stick floor jack under TRE and lift until there is no tension on the upper control arm. This can be tested for by lifting until you can spin the control arm mounting bolts by hand.

8. Once the arm that is mounted doesn't have any tension on it, and the axle is square to the frame, then adjust the remaining control arm until it will bolt into place. Now the uppers both have equal tension on them.

9. Lower the floor Jack and torque the mounting bolts to spec.


I figured I would share this info for anyone else that might make the same upgrades that I have.

Also he shared with me that having slightly different length control arms doesn't matter, what matters is that the axle is square under the vehicle and all the joints are loaded equally and not binding against eachother.

I hope this helps some others, I know talking with him helped me out a bunch!

Edit 1:
Quote:
Originally Posted by mrblaine View Post
The front springs hang over the front of the axle tube and when the weight of the rig is on them, they tilt the front of the axle down. The only way to free up the bolt is to jack it up on the front side of the axle, we use the tie rod. We have tough tie rods, so we just put the floor jack under it and gently take the pressure off until you can spin the bolt with your fingers of the "single" arm you are doing your pinion adjustment with. When the bolt turns freely with the rig on level ground side to side, then float the other arm over until you can get the last bolt installed in it. That makes both uppers share the same loads without being in a bind at all.

Edit 2:

Quote:
Originally Posted by mrblaine View Post
Let me reiterate this somewhat. Do NOT remove both uppers at the same time without something under something on the front side of the axle to keep it from rotating and flipping forward. That makes a hell of a mess that takes a few minutes to puzzle through.

I've fixed it by taking a winchline under the axle and hooking it to the upper control arm mount and winching in a bit. Not really the best way, but it got the job done.

Eventually you'll get it rotated far enough to get a jack under the steering arm or tie rod.
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Unread 12-02-2011, 02:53 PM   #57
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Awesome!
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Unread 12-03-2011, 01:05 PM   #58
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I have been reading a lot of threads trying to learn as much as possibly. All this talk of roll center and antisquat? I thought antisquat had to do with the feminist movement? :-)
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Unread 12-03-2011, 02:05 PM   #59
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I have been reading a lot of threads trying to learn as much as possibly. All this talk of roll center and antisquat?
A lot of the roll center and anti squat stuff is seeping onto this forum from the folks that also hang out on Pirate off road forum. Each one of them has a different idea about one measurment or another, but none of them can even agree with eachother, or even tell me where to take measurements from to create a baseline for comparison.

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I thought antisquat had to do with the feminist movement? :-)
Lol!
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Unread 12-15-2011, 06:31 PM   #60
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Update:

Even though I already have a large pile of parts that I haven't yet installed....

Today I ordered Savvy aluminum upper and lower control arms, Both the uppers and lowers are double adjustable, so I won't have to remove an arm to make pinion angle adjustments.

Hopefully once I have them installed I will be able to also install my UCF, UHC tummy tuck/skid plate system.

I also ordered the Savvy/Fox racing 4-5" lift shocks that are Savvy tuned to work with the 4" lift Currie springs that I still need to install...

Gerald at Savvy was really helpfull, I had a few problems with my order, but with a couple of emails we got everything sorted out, and hopefully my new parts will be on their way shortly!
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