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post #31 of 1028 Old 11-26-2011, 09:28 PM Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by TJRHD View Post
Yep it did and thats wonderful. I also found that my front ds is bent so that could be my vibration problem..
Oh dang! Did you get your U-joints figured out today?


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post #32 of 1028 Old 11-26-2011, 09:29 PM
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Here's the other side of the Currie bushing tower cleaned and ready to be welded.

I disconnected my battery cables ready for welding, and Rocko disconnected the computer plugs for extra insurance to hopefully not have any issues afterwards.

The Currie bushing tower held in place with a medium sized C-clamp ready to be welded into place.



And here it is all welded up!


And with the control arm reinstalled, and shot with a quick coat or rustoleum rust preventative black paint.

The install took a little while because the welder wasn't working correctly, and we wanted to make sure that the bushing inside the Johnny Joint didn't melt due to heat from being welded, so Rocko welded a little bit, then we let it cool for 15 minutes or so, then welded a bit more, etc etc... at the end of it all the Johnny Joint was still nice and tight, and everything seems to be in good working order.
So now all I have left is the on bushing on the top of the dif to replace, and all 8 of my forwards bushings will be Currie. I can already swear that I'm a convert, even though I have one more bushing to install, my Jeep handles and steers way more responsive and precise than it did before!
you guys did a good job on that. I noticed that my JJ loosened up a bit after welding the right side on. I dont think its as loose as my flex joints yet but probably will need rebuilt sooner than the others. How did you press out your pumpkin side bushing? i cut both sides off with a sawzall and the put a bolt through the hole and hit it out with a bfh.. I tried to press it out but i never got it that way.

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post #33 of 1028 Old 11-26-2011, 09:38 PM Thread Starter
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you guys did a good job on that. I noticed that my JJ loosened up a bit after welding the right side on. I dont think its as loose as my flex joints yet but probably will need rebuilt sooner than the others. How did you press out your pumpkin side bushing? i cut both sides off with a sawzall and the put a bolt through the hole and hit it out with a bfh.. I tried to press it out but i never got it that way.
We didn't get to the pumpkin side bushing, I'm going to try to get to that side next weekend if I don't have to work.

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post #34 of 1028 Old 11-26-2011, 09:39 PM
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We didn't get to the pumpkin side bushing, I'm going to try to get to that side next weekend if I don't have to work.
mine was a pita lol but the bfh thing worked the best for me lol

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post #35 of 1028 Old 11-26-2011, 09:40 PM
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Oh dang! Did you get your U-joints figured out today?
didnt get to it yet..lol

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post #36 of 1028 Old 11-26-2011, 09:59 PM Thread Starter
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didnt get to it yet..lol
Me either, lol! I'm not in a big hurry, I have lots more parts that I need to get installed, and I have more parts to purchase before I can even install some of them...

I need rear adjustable control arms before I can install my tummy tuck, and I need gears, axle shafts, unit bearings, ball joints, axle truss, and the outer casing for a johnny joint and the jj rebuild tool before I can finish building my hp30 front axle... I might just buy 2 pumpkin side JJ's for my hp 30 axle and recoup the costs by selling my LP axle with the JJ kit still installed on the axle side.

I don't sweat my build very much, it's my hobby, so I try to keep it enjoyable and not let it stress me out to much. Trying to do things to quickly makes it stressfull, and then I'd get frustrated and end up selling it instead of finishing it....

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post #37 of 1028 Old 11-26-2011, 10:01 PM
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thats a good way to think of it, maybe I need to try that myself...

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post #38 of 1028 Old 11-26-2011, 10:42 PM
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Do you have plans on removing you body lift? nice build by the way!

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post #39 of 1028 Old 11-26-2011, 11:07 PM Thread Starter
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Do you have plans on removing you body lift? nice build by the way!
I'm not 100% sure about what I'm going to do with the body lift just yet, I'm thinking of chopping the front and rear of my frame rails off eventually and rewelding them 2" higher than they are, thus allowing me to run long arms that are flush with the bottom of the frame so as not to hang up on obstacles on the trail, add in boat sides and raised body mounts for the section of frame that doesn't get raised up, and the 3" body lift will give me enough room to maintain correct link seperation angle for all of my control arm mounts. If I section and bend my frame upwards in the rear the body lift will basically vanish as far as the ugly 3" "pucks" are concerned. Don't look for any of that to happen any time soon though since I still need adjustable upper and lower rear control arm mounts just to get my tummy tuck installed. And I want a whole crap ton of other parts just to finish stage 1 of my build.

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post #40 of 1028 Old 11-27-2011, 05:53 AM
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What about scraping the 3", I'll make you a set of the aluminum pucks like mine, but at 1 1/2", then take out the (6) 3each side clam shells and raise those mounts up to take the boatsides???? I think I still have a few feet of the aluminum stock I used for mine. If not I can go see my buddy and get a few feet of scrap from him.

Yes it was a Ford axle, just ball joint. I want the kingpin, and not to mention it was a huge P.O.S. for what he wanted for it, a bit of work isn't the word for what that housing needed.

I've been welder shopping this morning


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post #41 of 1028 Old 11-27-2011, 09:26 AM Thread Starter
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What about scraping the 3", I'll make you a set of the aluminum pucks like mine, but at 1 1/2", then take out the (6) 3each side clam shells and raise those mounts up to take the boatsides???? I think I still have a few feet of the aluminum stock I used for mine. If not I can go see my buddy and get a few feet of scrap from him.

Yes it was a Ford axle, just ball joint. I want the kingpin, and not to mention it was a huge P.O.S. for what he wanted for it, a bit of work isn't the word for what that housing needed.

I've been welder shopping this morning
I wouldn't mind raising my side body mounts upwards and getting rid of the body lift on the sides, supposedly that would make the mounts more stable, although I haven't had any problems with what I already have so far. Maybe once I've got it on the rocks in Crozet I'll change my mind though, lol!

Good luck with the welder shopping! You going to get a full gas shielded 220 set up?

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post #42 of 1028 Old 11-27-2011, 03:24 PM
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From what I've seen with them the larger distant between the body and the frame allows the body to move around a little more causing the mounts on the tub to wallow out and a couple times I've seen where it had pulled or ripped the tub in the area of the mounting nut in the tub.

Yep 220v shielded gas. I want to get a TIG gun for it as well. I'm looking forward to trying some aluminum parts here and there on mine.


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post #43 of 1028 Old 11-27-2011, 03:26 PM
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Every time I read the name of this thread I think of Sublime

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post #44 of 1028 Old 11-27-2011, 03:30 PM
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Every time I read the name of this thread I think of Sublime




Funny stuff!!


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post #45 of 1028 Old 11-27-2011, 04:05 PM Thread Starter
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From what I've seen with them the larger distant between the body and the frame allows the body to move around a little more causing the mounts on the tub to wallow out and a couple times I've seen where it had pulled or ripped the tub in the area of the mounting nut in the tub.

Yep 220v shielded gas. I want to get a TIG gun for it as well. I'm looking forward to trying some aluminum parts here and there on mine.
I ran a 3" body lift on an 89 bronco with 6" suspension and 39's without ever having any problems, also on a 91 suburban with 12" suspension and 44' tires with no problems... an 87 blazer with 4 plus 3 and 39's without issues, a 95 Toyota Tacoma with 6 plus 3 and no issues, and I could list at least 3-4 more lifted trucks I've ran with body lifts and never had any problem. Considering that a leaf spring vehicle's entire weight is supported by only 8 bolts through the bushings in the leaf springs, I don't really see how a 3" body lift would fail considering they use more than 8 bolts and don't have any where near as much force applied to them...

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