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Unread 11-24-2011, 04:04 PM   #91
1stblack97ZJ
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lookin good! that hi-lift fiasco musta been nerve wracking tho Can't wait to see the front done man

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Unread 11-25-2011, 05:57 PM   #92
andrewmacc
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 1stblack97ZJ View Post
lookin good! that hi-lift fiasco musta been nerve wracking tho Can't wait to see the front done man
Yeah that wasn't fun. I was sweating like crazy, trying to get a jack under it.. It's all good now, but I've just been shaking my head at myself for it!


Haven't done a whole lot this past day or two. Was trying to catch up on some sleep. I've got the other coil bucket cut out, just widening the hole now to fit the shock hoops.

I think I'll definitely have to relocate my battery, though. I was kinda trying to defy conventional wisdom, I haven't seen many, if any, shock hoops in an XJ with the battery still in place.

These are obviously not in final position. Just jamming them up to see if they fit.





Coolant, fuse box and cruise control.. where am I going to put you?


Other side started
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"Chilton's and Haynes are for brake jobs, oil changes and starting campfires." - CJ7-Tim
'98 2dr/5spd Cherokee rockin' on tons, 5.9L V8 Magnum, HP60/14b, 5.13:1, locked, 14" coilovers, Dana 300 4:1 twin stick... oink oink!
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Unread 11-30-2011, 06:44 PM   #93
andrewmacc
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Apparently my 14" coilovers aren't as big as I thought they would be. I have them set up for 9" down, 5" up, which brings them to a total of 25.5" at ride height.

The front still has to come down a couple inches from the jack stands, but from what I can see, I really won't need much of those shock hoops, only need them about 12" long. Admittedly that's because my total ride height is higher than I want it to be by a few inches. I will run it this way first. If I feel unstable, I will put it back in the garage for about a week to put it down. Shouldn't be too hard... smaller leaf pack, taller shock hoops, more sawzall.

I grabbed some PVC links and cut and drilled them to my approximate lengths. My upper is in the 37.5" range, and the lowers are 39.25". That's eye to eye with 3/4" shank showing.

I may shorten the lowers a couple inches so I'll have a more appropriate pinion angle on articulation. And before the mid-armers come in blasting at my lengths, I prefer long arms, and they work better on the road for me. No arguments.


edit:
had to do SOMETHING tonight. Been pretty well shot down today. Local store didn't have a 5/8" drill bit to drill out my link brackets, can't find an oxy-acet torch, can't find any places to bend up 2" 1/4" wall DOM for some reason.. bah.

I basically only tacked them up so I could say I did something. I don't even think they're fully straight.
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"Chilton's and Haynes are for brake jobs, oil changes and starting campfires." - CJ7-Tim
'98 2dr/5spd Cherokee rockin' on tons, 5.9L V8 Magnum, HP60/14b, 5.13:1, locked, 14" coilovers, Dana 300 4:1 twin stick... oink oink!
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Unread 12-05-2011, 10:49 AM   #94
andrewmacc
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Getting some useless crap ready for hydro assist.

Accidentally pinched the snap ring in the cap. Just had to tap the base in, but I'll need a new ring.


Dem some long lower links. Think I'll shorten those a few inches after all. Cutting those coil buckets out is a messy business.



This is the hydro assist cap. Still need a snap ring... but..


... buut, I dropped a ball bearing because I accidentally let the power piston extend too far. Huge mothertrucking oopsies. Well, not huge at all, just a total waste of time. So out comes the pitman arm puller, and disassembling the whole box. Here's the kicker: I'm far too cheap to rebuild it. So I'm just going to reassemble it as is, and if it starts leaking, I'll just source a new box. Not worth the time and hassle - the drilled and tapped top cap and front cap can swap right over to a new box.

Still. Facepalm.
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"Chilton's and Haynes are for brake jobs, oil changes and starting campfires." - CJ7-Tim
'98 2dr/5spd Cherokee rockin' on tons, 5.9L V8 Magnum, HP60/14b, 5.13:1, locked, 14" coilovers, Dana 300 4:1 twin stick... oink oink!
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Unread 12-05-2011, 11:40 AM   #95
Driver831
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sucker is gonna be sick! awesome build. Built a Cherokee on 53"s with 1 tons.. definitely wasn't as sweet as yours ha. subscribed!
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Unread 12-06-2011, 04:29 PM   #96
andrewmacc
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Driver831 View Post
sucker is gonna be sick! awesome build. Built a Cherokee on 53"s with 1 tons.. definitely wasn't as sweet as yours ha. subscribed!
53"s? Throw some pics up here! I don't mind, I'm not too picky about it being a "me me me me me" build thread.

Thanks so much. Comments keep me going, sometimes I sit in the garage and just think "you son of a..", which makes me laugh because what I'm doing is absolutely peanuts compared to what so many guys are building. Gives me a whole new respect for their talent.

FINALLY got a hold of some guys who can bend my 2" 1/4"-wall - nice guys, but they want me to wait 5 to 10 business days just to throw some bends into 2 pieces of tube!

Nothing I can do though. What I figured is this, I shortened my lowers:

TOTAL LENGTH (eye to eye):
lowers: 37"
upper: 37.5"

TUBE LENGTH:
lowers: 30"
upper: 30.5"

Heim and shank length = 3.5" (3/4" shank showing w/ jam nut on) (ergo the 7" differences).

The lowers will have a 20* bend that is 10.5" up the tube (14" up the link total), to clear the tires, which will decrease the overall length of the lower links by 3/4" (0.71" exact) to a length of a rounded 36.25". I think that should work well.


Been trying to do some odds and ends. Making a quick box spacer to replace that piece of crap cast piece. Made it out of 1/4" and extended it down the rail a bit, try to add some stiffness in there. Cut my shock hoops to length (I cut like 10" out of them!), just waiting for my friend to be available this week to neatly notch them.

Put the steering gear back together, except for the bloody snap ring. I can't get it in the groove for the life of me. Any tips? I'm marring the damn expensive aluminum hydro assist cap with my punches and screwdrivers.

Also need a longer pitman arm, but that's up in the air for a bit. Mine's only 5.5" eye to eye, and has a major drop.


Additionally, on another note, my power steering in my DD went out. Wooooo fun times.
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"Chilton's and Haynes are for brake jobs, oil changes and starting campfires." - CJ7-Tim
'98 2dr/5spd Cherokee rockin' on tons, 5.9L V8 Magnum, HP60/14b, 5.13:1, locked, 14" coilovers, Dana 300 4:1 twin stick... oink oink!
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Unread 12-06-2011, 07:06 PM   #97
Driver831
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well.. since you said so like I said, nothing compared to the amount of time and work your doing here. but was a ton of fun to build. started stock-35's-37's-39.5's-53's I skipped the 40 state for a bit till I sold 53's for 49's ran 5.13 gears the 5 circle hole rims have 49's and the 10 circle rims have the 53's .. if u were wondering ha
img_0432.jpg   img_0238.jpg   img_0660.jpg   wraywray.jpg   img_0242.jpg  

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Unread 12-06-2011, 07:33 PM   #98
andrewmacc
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Originally Posted by Driver831 View Post
well.. since you said so like I said, nothing compared to the amount of time and work your doing here. but was a ton of fun to build. started stock-35's-37's-39.5's-53's I skipped the 40 state for a bit till I sold 53's for 49's ran 5.13 gears the 5 circle hole rims have 49's and the 10 circle rims have the 53's .. if u were wondering ha
Holy crap.
Hell, I think it looks sweet. Looks like you put in just as much effort as I did! What happened to it? Still have it around? I do enjoy the low center of gravity builds, but once in a while it's nice to just see a big monster.


Did a few small things today.

Took a quick 20 minutes and cut out an inner steering box brace and spacer. I did a pretty lazy job because it's not there to do a whole lot. Just needs to be there.



Ripping out the passenger side. Cut the carpet because I'll have to do some interior decorating ( ) because of how the upper link mount will be in the way.




Two small rust holes at the leftmost side, and 4 newly drilled holes for a general reference for where the link mount will be.



Not a whole lot, just felt like being in the garage tonight - with the cloud cover the temperature is pretty decent.
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"Chilton's and Haynes are for brake jobs, oil changes and starting campfires." - CJ7-Tim
'98 2dr/5spd Cherokee rockin' on tons, 5.9L V8 Magnum, HP60/14b, 5.13:1, locked, 14" coilovers, Dana 300 4:1 twin stick... oink oink!
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Unread 12-06-2011, 07:51 PM   #99
Driver831
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actually sold it to move to finish an Engineering Degree 2 years back. was my baby, haha deff a blast!
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Unread 12-07-2011, 09:28 PM   #100
andrewmacc
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Uh. Oops.

Started off nice and mild, cutting some sheet metal to make room for my upper link.



But I kept getting more and more nervous at how thin that sheet metal frame channel is.. And with a frameside upper link where you can't get much reinforcement on both sides, I was thinking there was no way that I'd be comfortable with all the leverage on one side of a weak "frame".

So I started cutting more...


And then I started thinking.. I can reinforce the frame channel, but only if I can get access to the inside and top of it. Well, crap. Here goes.


Heellloooooholy crapola. I'm in it deep now.



Well. I was talking to a friend and he kept saying "if you don't stop cutting it up I'm going to take your keys away", because it just looked like I wasn't stopping. But luckily, sense prevailed and I've been measuring for new material to strengthen this absolutely pathetic frame up.

I am going to sink two pieces of 1/8" steel on the inside of each vertical section of rail. Then two pieces of box tube will sink in there and get welded sort of like a "crush sleeve" of sorts. Then a piece of 3/16" will cover up the whole thing, with holes drilled to plug weld onto the box tube. THEN I can mount my frame upper link to that, and throw a few gussets in. Yes, passenger foot room will be scarce.. but my passengers will just have to learn to get comfy.. I won't compromise safety and suspension geometry for a couple inches of leg room.

You'll just have to trust me on this one, I'll show you pics in progress, as always.
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"Chilton's and Haynes are for brake jobs, oil changes and starting campfires." - CJ7-Tim
'98 2dr/5spd Cherokee rockin' on tons, 5.9L V8 Magnum, HP60/14b, 5.13:1, locked, 14" coilovers, Dana 300 4:1 twin stick... oink oink!
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Unread 12-07-2011, 09:54 PM   #101
Driver831
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You inspired me .. Picking up a Dana 60 front and 14 bolt rear for my TJ.. was a sweet deal couldn't resist

By any change do you have tires on the front with the 1 ton and get get me a measurement from center of tire to center of tire?
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Unread 12-07-2011, 10:44 PM   #102
andrewmacc
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Originally Posted by Driver831 View Post
You inspired me .. Picking up a Dana 60 front and 14 bolt rear for my TJ.. was a sweet deal couldn't resist

By any change do you have tires on the front with the 1 ton and get get me a measurement from center of tire to center of tire?
Very cool! Glad I could turn you back over to the dark side again.

I don't have that measurement unfortunately, but I could potentially get it to you soon.

I did some rough math to see if I could try to get outside to outside measurement though.. you'll have to check to see if I'm wrong:

69.25 + 4.5 + 12.5 = 86.25" outside.

Looking at it it seems like I did something wrong there, but here's what I did:

WMS + 2(WW - BS) + 2(TW/2) = measurement.

Legend:
WMS - Ford Dana 60 is 69.25"
Wheel Width - H2 rims are 8.5"
Backspacing - H2 rims are 5 5/8"
Tire Width - just a typical 12.5" wide tire



Like I said I think I did that wrong.
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"Chilton's and Haynes are for brake jobs, oil changes and starting campfires." - CJ7-Tim
'98 2dr/5spd Cherokee rockin' on tons, 5.9L V8 Magnum, HP60/14b, 5.13:1, locked, 14" coilovers, Dana 300 4:1 twin stick... oink oink!
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Unread 12-07-2011, 11:06 PM   #103
Driver831
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Quote:
Originally Posted by andrewmacc

Very cool! Glad I could turn you back over to the dark side again.

I don't have that measurement unfortunately, but I could potentially get it to you soon.

I did some rough math to see if I could try to get outside to outside measurement though.. you'll have to check to see if I'm wrong:

69.25 + 4.5 + 12.5 = 86.25" outside.

Looking at it it seems like I did something wrong there, but here's what I did:

WMS + 2(WW - BS) + 2(TW/2) = measurement.

Legend:
WMS - Ford Dana 60 is 69.25"
Wheel Width - H2 rims are 8.5"
Backspacing - H2 rims are 5 5/8"
Tire Width - just a typical 12.5" wide tire

Like I said I think I did that wrong.
Yeah u did ur math right! I know I couldn't resist looking at my old XJ and seeing a fresh build like yours. My width now is 77" solid with the 30 and a killer backspacing procomp rim. Hopefully with the full size I can get a ?positive? Backspacing to keep the tires tucked
Thanks for the equation tho! Pretty sure that will be reposted!
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Unread 12-07-2011, 11:24 PM   #104
andrewmacc
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Originally Posted by Driver831 View Post
Yeah u did ur math right! I know I couldn't resist looking at my old XJ and seeing a fresh build like yours. My width now is 77" solid with the 30 and a killer backspacing procomp rim. Hopefully with the full size I can get a ?positive? Backspacing to keep the tires tucked
Thanks for the equation tho! Pretty sure that will be reposted!
Absolutely no problemo.

Regarding backspacing:

H1 rims are 16.5" dia., and have around 7" of backspacing - they tuck in so far that to run them you are required to use high steer arms that are canted inward to clear the rim. Your every-day high steer arms will hit the rim. I believe the stock tie rod location on the knuckles need to get cut out as well. To my knowledge, you cannot run rims with any higher backspacing than them on a 1 ton axle.

The obvious disadvantage of having a lot of backspacing is that your hubs will stick out much farther, putting it at a potential risk for damage.

Your only solutions if that is unacceptable are:

- shortened axles with dually hubs (the hubs are much more flush with the rim)
- shortened axles with regular backspaced rims like 4.5" etc (to push the rim farther outward to protect the hub)
- and H2 rims with SRW hubs like I am running, but that will still leave you at ~86" wide.

There is also one other option, but looks extremely pricey (I'm actually afraid to ask how much):
Dynatrac's 60 stub hub kit
http://www.dynatrac.com/products/par...tubhubkit.html


It's a crappy compromise, trying to get 1 ton axles to fit nicely. What a lot of guys do is to just suck up the cost, and shorten axles to around 62" to 65" WMS. But the cost of getting custom shafts is not nice.

A way to gain 2 inches on a regular 60, though, is to get an 80's D60 like mine, and cut 2" off the long side and use a 1978-79 long side shaft.
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"Chilton's and Haynes are for brake jobs, oil changes and starting campfires." - CJ7-Tim
'98 2dr/5spd Cherokee rockin' on tons, 5.9L V8 Magnum, HP60/14b, 5.13:1, locked, 14" coilovers, Dana 300 4:1 twin stick... oink oink!
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Unread 12-09-2011, 04:33 PM   #105
andrewmacc
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Looks fugly now, but in a few -- wait no, it's just going to look fugly. Such a terrible position to weld with rod.

This was at the beginning. I stitch welded it after this. I have the opposite inside plated as well, and then I'll sink some box tube between those two pieces to sandwich it. Then the 3/16" plate will get holes cut where the the box tube is so I can rosette weld around it. This way I can put the upper link up beside the frame rail and have gussets keeping it tight to the rail.

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"Chilton's and Haynes are for brake jobs, oil changes and starting campfires." - CJ7-Tim
'98 2dr/5spd Cherokee rockin' on tons, 5.9L V8 Magnum, HP60/14b, 5.13:1, locked, 14" coilovers, Dana 300 4:1 twin stick... oink oink!
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