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Offset Tie Rod Kit From RuffStuff!The Original 3/8" Ruffstuff Diff Cover!Introducing MONSTALINER™ UV Permanent DIY Roll On Bed Line

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Unread 09-28-2011, 03:39 PM   #46
86cherokeek20
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wow yeah hopefully ya can get your moneys back...i risk alot of money on cheaper products then read the reviews...sofar ive been lucky but idk if id trust those lol...good luck to ya tho

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Unread 09-29-2011, 11:50 PM   #47
andrewmacc
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Ordered the FX-R projector kit. Pricey, though.

All ready to get regeared. I take it to my guy tomorrow afternoon. He's got a pretty full schedule so he'll plug away at it for a few days before I get it back. But for the price, there's no argument. $300 for 2 axles.





Also you'll noticed it's stripped down for a disc brake swap. This last second revision shiet is really pressing on my wallet, there's another $350 for disc brakes.. Still have to get tube for the 3 link, there's probably another $300.. then driveshafts. Then fluids. And shifters.


Crap.
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"Chilton's and Haynes are for brake jobs, oil changes and starting campfires." - CJ7-Tim
'98 2dr/5spd Cherokee rockin' on tons, 5.9L V8 Magnum, HP60/14b, 5.13:1, locked, 14" coilovers, Dana 300 4:1 twin stick... oink oink!
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Unread 10-06-2011, 07:22 AM   #48
andrewmacc
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Well, been pretty busy this week with non-Heep related stuff. Sold a truck, had some personal crap, got my tattoo, etc etc, but I did manage to pick these up:





Patterns look good:






Metalmart will have my steel tomorrow so I can finally make my crossmember.. I can't turn this thing around to rip out the front until I can get the jack out from the transmission, so that's sort of put things on hiatus.

Oh, ordered some RuffStuff disc brake adapters, and the appropriate hardware from RockAuto including new dually studs. Always funny to hear people getting crazy deals.. sounds like I need to make some friends in high places! Everyone always goes "oh you can disc brake swap for under $200!" Yeah? Well, the brackets cost $50 + shipping, and more often than not you should use new studs, which are about $40, and then rotors set you back around $40 each, and then calipers the same. Then there's shipping if you get it online (because even with shipping costs, it's cheaper than at Lordco).

Also noticed how inconveniencing it is to no longer have a girlfriend with a pickup truck.. Used to be a simple matter of seeing if she was free, now it's a game of "let's see what poor friend I can hassle into helping me out this time"..

Note to self: next girlfriend should have pickup truck. (I jest. Mostly.)
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"Chilton's and Haynes are for brake jobs, oil changes and starting campfires." - CJ7-Tim
'98 2dr/5spd Cherokee rockin' on tons, 5.9L V8 Magnum, HP60/14b, 5.13:1, locked, 14" coilovers, Dana 300 4:1 twin stick... oink oink!
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Unread 10-11-2011, 07:26 PM   #49
andrewmacc
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Haven't done much Jeep stuff this week.
Pulled out the exhaust today, I also zipdisc'd off some of the inner pinch seam of the frame rail so I can weld on some inner frame plating. Mocking up the crossmember, trying to get the right size for the box tubing, and the positioning for the tranny mount.
I'll have to reroute my exhaust. If need be I can always notch the crossmember and plate the area.

Just taking a break.. someone once said "it's easy to cut steel, but it's not as easy for it to grow back", so I've been taking pieces off it so I don't have too much of a gap.
Obviously this is just with it sitting there, it will be flush with the frame rails.
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"Chilton's and Haynes are for brake jobs, oil changes and starting campfires." - CJ7-Tim
'98 2dr/5spd Cherokee rockin' on tons, 5.9L V8 Magnum, HP60/14b, 5.13:1, locked, 14" coilovers, Dana 300 4:1 twin stick... oink oink!
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Unread 10-13-2011, 05:12 PM   #50
1stblack97ZJ
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lookin good man!
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Unread 10-14-2011, 02:24 AM   #51
andrewmacc
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Making the crossmember. Just trying to get measurements correct before I weld anything in. I have a "play" space of a couple inches, so I should have no excuse for messing up.

Exhaust will certainly be interesting, though.. :\






And looky! Real HIDs, not the fake crap, so I won't be blinding anyone:
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"Chilton's and Haynes are for brake jobs, oil changes and starting campfires." - CJ7-Tim
'98 2dr/5spd Cherokee rockin' on tons, 5.9L V8 Magnum, HP60/14b, 5.13:1, locked, 14" coilovers, Dana 300 4:1 twin stick... oink oink!
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Unread 10-14-2011, 02:45 PM   #52
andrewmacc
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These guys are huge:


6 1.25" heims, axle side control arm, 10* link tower, frameside lower link, and frameside 10* upper link bracket.


Ready for the disc brake swap. I just need hard and soft lines.
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"Chilton's and Haynes are for brake jobs, oil changes and starting campfires." - CJ7-Tim
'98 2dr/5spd Cherokee rockin' on tons, 5.9L V8 Magnum, HP60/14b, 5.13:1, locked, 14" coilovers, Dana 300 4:1 twin stick... oink oink!
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Unread 10-14-2011, 02:55 PM   #53
jkl
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Quote:
Originally Posted by andrewmacc View Post
6 1.25" heims, axle side control arm, 10* link tower, frameside lower link, and frameside 10* upper link bracket.


Ruff Stuff?
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Unread 10-14-2011, 03:09 PM   #54
Bama_WJ
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Everything is looking nice!
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Unread 10-14-2011, 05:42 PM   #55
andrewmacc
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jkl View Post
Ruff Stuff?
You bet.
Great products, good deals, great service, and fast shipping.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Bama_WJ View Post
Everything is looking nice!
Thankya! Now that I'm more or less done accumulating parts, it should be all progress pics from now on.
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"Chilton's and Haynes are for brake jobs, oil changes and starting campfires." - CJ7-Tim
'98 2dr/5spd Cherokee rockin' on tons, 5.9L V8 Magnum, HP60/14b, 5.13:1, locked, 14" coilovers, Dana 300 4:1 twin stick... oink oink!
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Unread 10-17-2011, 08:18 PM   #56
andrewmacc
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Just slapped the hubs on the rotors. Still have to bolt up the bracket and caliper, and then obviously brake lines.



Was tacking up the frame stiffeners, but I made a boo boo. So off it comes, and I'll have to reclean the metal. I got nervous with the sheet metal and I had the welder set way, way, way low. So now the metal is dirty from my bird crap tack, so out comes the grinder tomorrow.



You may notice that I drilled holes for plug welds, but didn't do any in the area by the crossmember.
Well, I will have to be drilling three 1-3/8" holes into that spot (for the 1" OD sleeves) for the crossmember bolts to bolt all the way through the frame channel... so I didn't exactly want to mess up and have a hole an inch away from where I needed a bigger hole. :\

However, that means I'm really not excited to drill such a big hole all the way through: the 3/16" stiffener, the frame, and the 1/8" inner plating. I don't even know how I'm going to accomplish that.
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"Chilton's and Haynes are for brake jobs, oil changes and starting campfires." - CJ7-Tim
'98 2dr/5spd Cherokee rockin' on tons, 5.9L V8 Magnum, HP60/14b, 5.13:1, locked, 14" coilovers, Dana 300 4:1 twin stick... oink oink!
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Unread 10-20-2011, 08:46 AM   #57
andrewmacc
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So the PO is a freaking idiot.




That's the "hole" that's made on the inside of the frame rail for the dumb Crusty's inner frame reinforcement to slide through the rail. AT MOST, that hole should be an inch... ROUND. Likely it's only supposed to be 5/8". Instead, I can fit an entire 2x2 piece of square tube if I knock off the "slag"/drooped metal from the sloppy torch work.

I knew about this earlier, obviously, when I took the long arms off, but it didn't hit me til now that it's going to affect my work. So now I have to cut it up, slam some tube in there, weld it up, and try to get my crossmember mounting holes away from those FOUR freaking gaping holes.

So the plan is:

3 of the holes are of the approximate size for some 2" OD HREW tube, so I will drill all the way through, slide it in, weld it up, grind it flush, THEN weld on all the frame plating. The other 1 hole, as pictured, is a friggin' square, so I'll clean it up and ram some 2"x2" square tube in there and do the same.

Of course, one of these holes is directly in the way of where I want one of the new crossmember's mounting holes. Agh.
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"Chilton's and Haynes are for brake jobs, oil changes and starting campfires." - CJ7-Tim
'98 2dr/5spd Cherokee rockin' on tons, 5.9L V8 Magnum, HP60/14b, 5.13:1, locked, 14" coilovers, Dana 300 4:1 twin stick... oink oink!
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Unread 10-20-2011, 01:35 PM   #58
justanotherjpr
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Looks painful. If you use a good hole saw and a right angle drill cutting the holes for the sleeves will still stuck but won't be quite as bad.
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Unread 10-20-2011, 02:47 PM   #59
andrewmacc
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Yeah I'm pretty *******ed frustrated right now.

This is where I'm at. One of them was a good shape for a 2x2 box tube, the others are 2" OD 1/8" wall HREW. Problem is, because of how messed up the holes on the inside were... my plasma cutting got sloppy because I had no idea what I was matching it up to, IMO, where I needed to open the holes. So I didn't really help much.




And of course I tried to put it together with my stick welder, with 1/8 rod at 90 amps, and it just melted the framerail even more, creating like another 1/4" gap at the bottom. I really don't want to upload that picture. I'll get it figured it, I'm not too worried, and it'll be stronger than before. Plus when I fill in the holes, it gets plated inside and out with the frame stiffeners and 1/8" on the inside.

I have 2 friends offering to come down and take a look, they're both pretty handy with a MIG (one of them is the stainless TIG welder, he's been my close friend since I was 4).. so maybe they can pull it off where my SMAW was burning through.
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"Chilton's and Haynes are for brake jobs, oil changes and starting campfires." - CJ7-Tim
'98 2dr/5spd Cherokee rockin' on tons, 5.9L V8 Magnum, HP60/14b, 5.13:1, locked, 14" coilovers, Dana 300 4:1 twin stick... oink oink!
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Unread 10-20-2011, 03:37 PM   #60
86cherokeek20
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wow, i seriously need to get back to watchin threads havent been on in a while looks like alot of progress ha been made, LOOKIN GOOD! keeep it up man
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Bruno the jeep-boatsides, 14b, dana60, linked, tubeframed-exo to come-build in progress!
http://www.jeepforum.com/forum/f22/bruno-boat-sided-cherokee-tube-buggy-build-1265869/
tow rig-92 f150 with 351 and 4 spd
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