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post #31 of 301 Old 09-21-2011, 06:37 PM Thread Starter
andrewmacc
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Cleaning up the frame rails for the TnT stiffeners. Waiting on my friend to see if he's willing to TIG them.




"Chilton's and Haynes are for brake jobs, oil changes and starting campfires." - CJ7-Tim
'98 2dr/5spd Cherokee rockin' on tons, 5.9L V8 Magnum, HP60/14b, 5.13:1, locked, 14" coilovers, Dana 300 4:1 twin stick... oink oink!
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post #32 of 301 Old 09-21-2011, 08:00 PM
djflyy
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Absolutely subscribed. Looks like a good build!
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post #33 of 301 Old 09-21-2011, 10:43 PM
86cherokeek20
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lookin good
tigs a little overkill for the stiffeners
id mig them on if i were you- take a look at pirate-they are the overkill kings over there and i have never seen one tigd
with the length of the welds and the thickness of the steel-mig will do fine-heck im buildin a tube buggy with a flux core welder
jmho-i guess it comes down to whatever floats your boat!

Bruno the jeep-boatsides, 14b, dana60, linked, tubeframed-exo to come-build in progress!
http://www.jeepforum.com/forum/f22/bruno-boat-sided-cherokee-tube-buggy-build-1265869/
tow rig-92 f150 with 351 and 4 spd
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post #34 of 301 Old 09-21-2011, 11:55 PM
EricsXJ
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Quote:
Originally Posted by andrewmacc View Post
And for EricsXJ, ground clearance actually isn't as bad as I was worried about, even with 37"s on this anchor:
...
Cool. Care to take a measurement from the floor to the bottom of the diff? Just for comparison and curiosity's sake.

Eric
2000 XJ "PROJECT RUBICON" 3-link front / 4-link rear / coilovers / running 37's on Dana 60s
My website - EricsXJ.com

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post #35 of 301 Old 09-22-2011, 03:22 PM Thread Starter
andrewmacc
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 86cherokeek20 View Post
lookin good
tigs a little overkill for the stiffeners
id mig them on if i were you- take a look at pirate-they are the overkill kings over there and i have never seen one tigd
with the length of the welds and the thickness of the steel-mig will do fine-heck im buildin a tube buggy with a flux core welder
jmho-i guess it comes down to whatever floats your boat!
Normally I would absolutely agree, but my friend is a stainless TIG welder for work, so I'm bribing him into TIGing it up just because it's probably the smallest job he'll have had to do that day.
And also mostly because his (expensive!) is an inverter style that's probably 25lbs, so he can literally throw it in his passenger seat and plug it into my 220v plug and weld away. MIG would require bringing down the bottle, and I don't want to do the stiffeners with my stick welder.

You want to talk overkill? My friend built his entire Sidekick, chop-top with flatbed etc, with his TIG welder. Crazy bastard.

Quote:
Originally Posted by djflyy View Post
Absolutely subscribed. Looks like a good build!
Thanks! It's going a little slow, been waiting on parts still, and unfortunately my space doesn't allow me to rip everything down ASAP like I want to. Once the rear is finished, I have to roll it out and turn it around.

Quote:
Originally Posted by EricsXJ View Post
Cool. Care to take a measurement from the floor to the bottom of the diff? Just for comparison and curiosity's sake.
You bet.
Just measured, with a good grinding shave (so not plating or machine necessary, just removing the lip), on Toyos that roughly only measure 36",

I still had almost 10.5" of clearance from ground to diff. Not brutal.



Received the hydro ram and tabs:



Just waiting on the EMS caps. Ordered at the same time but he said they shipped out from separate warehouses.


1998 Dodge Ram 2500 master cylinder. Has 1 1/4" bore as opposed to 1" stock. Big difference in terms of hydraulic power.


Couldn't make much noise last night, so I did some random odds and ends:
took out the intake, headlights (gonna bribe my friend "mistertierney" into making me a new wiring harness for the H4 conversion).. so basically making room for the coilover hoops. Took out one of the shocks, but the other one is very stuck. I wanted to try to either sell the shocks or pass them onto my friend that I sold the tires too, but I'm 10 seconds away from cutting the shock shaft and just let it come out with the patch of metal that currently has the name of "coil bucket".



And just requoting myself from my local board where I was feeling uncomfortable about the lower rod end in the coilover from it feeling like it had very loose tolerances:

"Oh, and Chris (motochris on PBB) is sending out a new heim bearing to try. Super fast response, Chris is a good business man. Messaged last night, had a response in the morning as "So I have your address as blah blah blah, do you want to try a new bearing first?" And done!

edit::

Some major redemption points from FOA. Chris sent me the following:

"Here's the plan.... we are sending a new heim PLUS a new lower rod end with a heim installed. If you can just swap out the heim and all is good, you have a spare lower. If it still isn't right, then swap the lower rod end for the new one.
That way...no matter what, you are squared away."

That's a massive point in their favour, IMO. Good for Chris."

Props to Chris and FOA!



Also waiting, I got a great deal from a friend's recommendation on regearing axles, but unfortunately it puts me on a small waiting list. Two axles regeared for $300 total, guaranteed work. But he said he's not free until the weekend of the 30th.

"Chilton's and Haynes are for brake jobs, oil changes and starting campfires." - CJ7-Tim
'98 2dr/5spd Cherokee rockin' on tons, 5.9L V8 Magnum, HP60/14b, 5.13:1, locked, 14" coilovers, Dana 300 4:1 twin stick... oink oink!
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post #36 of 301 Old 09-22-2011, 03:35 PM
86cherokeek20
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hey i diddnt realize ya got coilovers! nice choice...whish i could afford them, are ya going to keep the long arm or go three link now,
ruffstuff 1.25"heims are 125 a set and come with the high misalignment spacers, jam nuts, and weld ins for 1.5"ID tubing,
infact DOM isnt exactly necessary, its a lot stronger but if ya use regular 1.5" ID 1/4" wall tubing, sleve the first 6 inches or so of each link end with 2 inch ID 1/8" wall, this will be strong enough to last a season or two untill ya get dom

as for the tig, now i see, if he can doit cheap or free, it will be great, definately keep down on frame warp then

Bruno the jeep-boatsides, 14b, dana60, linked, tubeframed-exo to come-build in progress!
http://www.jeepforum.com/forum/f22/bruno-boat-sided-cherokee-tube-buggy-build-1265869/
tow rig-92 f150 with 351 and 4 spd
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post #37 of 301 Old 09-22-2011, 03:59 PM Thread Starter
andrewmacc
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 86cherokeek20 View Post
hey i diddnt realize ya got coilovers! nice choice...whish i could afford them, are ya going to keep the long arm or go three link now,
ruffstuff 1.25"heims are 125 a set and come with the high misalignment spacers, jam nuts, and weld ins for 1.5"ID tubing,
infact DOM isnt exactly necessary, its a lot stronger but if ya use regular 1.5" ID 1/4" wall tubing, sleve the first 6 inches or so of each link end with 2 inch ID 1/8" wall, this will be strong enough to last a season or two untill ya get dom

as for the tig, now i see, if he can doit cheap or free, it will be great, definately keep down on frame warp then
Yeah, it should really help out with the packaging, too.. coil and shock in one place, and the adjustability is endless. I do need to head down to my local motorcycle dealer and have them charge them with nitrogen - I've heard that coilovers that sit without pressure will eventually leak from the seals.

I want to do a 3 link. Every time I look underneath there, I don't want to bother with the radius arm.

I have 3 options:

1. IF, the "long arm" portion of the radius arm is long enough, I'll run that and zip off the radius arm, and then go 3 link with only the 1 new link (with those heims)

2. Just run the radius arms for now. I really want to budget something for once, but I don't like the radius arms much.

3. Most expensive scenario, the links aren't even long enough - period. Then I absolutely need a new crossmember and 3 new links.

I know the right way to do it, but I wanted to save a few hundred bucks for now just so I can fine tune some of this first.

"Chilton's and Haynes are for brake jobs, oil changes and starting campfires." - CJ7-Tim
'98 2dr/5spd Cherokee rockin' on tons, 5.9L V8 Magnum, HP60/14b, 5.13:1, locked, 14" coilovers, Dana 300 4:1 twin stick... oink oink!
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post #38 of 301 Old 09-24-2011, 03:06 PM
86cherokeek20
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just outa curiosity what did the FOAs costya? ive been thinkin airshocks but shes gettin heavy, let alone the fact that airshocks dont respond well to lots of recovery equipment

also your long arms look long enoughto do a mid arm three link definately better than those radius arms
as well as if/when you decide to build lowers that are longer in the future, al ya have to do is buy the dom, 2 heim sets, and new tube ends for a new upper, as well as all bracketry will be in place, jmo
also, have you thought of using bushed dom link ends on the frame insted of heims, itll handle beter onroad and light trails, and shave around $100 off the ruff stuff tab, i think they are like 20 bucks a set from ruffstuff.

Bruno the jeep-boatsides, 14b, dana60, linked, tubeframed-exo to come-build in progress!
http://www.jeepforum.com/forum/f22/bruno-boat-sided-cherokee-tube-buggy-build-1265869/
tow rig-92 f150 with 351 and 4 spd
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post #39 of 301 Old 09-26-2011, 02:17 PM Thread Starter
andrewmacc
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 86cherokeek20 View Post
just outa curiosity what did the FOAs costya? ive been thinkin airshocks but shes gettin heavy, let alone the fact that airshocks dont respond well to lots of recovery equipment

also your long arms look long enoughto do a mid arm three link definately better than those radius arms
as well as if/when you decide to build lowers that are longer in the future, al ya have to do is buy the dom, 2 heim sets, and new tube ends for a new upper, as well as all bracketry will be in place, jmo
also, have you thought of using bushed dom link ends on the frame insted of heims, itll handle beter onroad and light trails, and shave around $100 off the ruff stuff tab, i think they are like 20 bucks a set from ruffstuff.
FOAs with shipping cost me around $650 with coils. But keep in mind I bought 2.0" diameter, and didn't get the reservoirs.


Just ordered:
http://www.ruffstuffspecialties.com/...g/3LINKKT.html

So I'll pick up the tubing this week, and my axles get regeared on the weekend, and then I'll be selling my long arm set-up and crossmember to my friend.

Guess I need to buy some rectangular box tube and make a new crossmember!
And cut into the floor. Heheheh.


And I guess we'll see how well heims are going to do on a daily driver like mine. I think I'll just run them til they wear out and then put some Johnny Joints up after.

"Chilton's and Haynes are for brake jobs, oil changes and starting campfires." - CJ7-Tim
'98 2dr/5spd Cherokee rockin' on tons, 5.9L V8 Magnum, HP60/14b, 5.13:1, locked, 14" coilovers, Dana 300 4:1 twin stick... oink oink!
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post #40 of 301 Old 09-26-2011, 02:26 PM
diddy2003
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Sweet build!
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post #41 of 301 Old 09-26-2011, 03:31 PM
86cherokeek20
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great, that price is better than i thought! lol and those should work well fro a DD rig
if ya really want streetability alot of guys use bushed dom on the frame end and heims/johnnies on the axle, i think thatd work good, let alone the price will drop significantly
but it looks like ya gotta good plan though
EDIT::
just saw ya ordered the threelink kit... disrgaard the bushings idea, really good kit tho, my buddy ordered one a month orso ago on his yj, and the install went really easy too

Bruno the jeep-boatsides, 14b, dana60, linked, tubeframed-exo to come-build in progress!
http://www.jeepforum.com/forum/f22/bruno-boat-sided-cherokee-tube-buggy-build-1265869/
tow rig-92 f150 with 351 and 4 spd
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post #42 of 301 Old 09-26-2011, 04:16 PM Thread Starter
andrewmacc
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 86cherokeek20 View Post
great, that price is better than i thought! lol and those should work well fro a DD rig
if ya really want streetability alot of guys use bushed dom on the frame end and heims/johnnies on the axle, i think thatd work good, let alone the price will drop significantly
but it looks like ya gotta good plan though
EDIT::
just saw ya ordered the threelink kit... disrgaard the bushings idea, really good kit tho, my buddy ordered one a month orso ago on his yj, and the install went really easy too
Well, I had priced out Johnny Joints and everything.. and noticed that to have J.J.'s on all ends of the 3-link would cost me $300 and some change before shipping.

Then I matched that against the fact that the 3-link kit from Ruff Stuff cost me $415 after shipping, with the PBB discount and them removing the panhard kit from the cost (already have it).

So I thought, for the price difference, I get bad *** 1 1/4" heims (Ruff Stuff is getting a major reputation for the quality of their heims), all the tube adapters, jam nuts, and most of all, all the brackets, frame-side and axle-side.

Worst comes to worst? I go JJ's when these wear out.

The other reason is that I kept reading and reading, and more often than not it wasn't recommended to use bushings on a 3-link. JJ's would be fine because they're more of a solid joint, but like above, the fact that I can do them later sealed it for me.

I figured I'd source the DOM locally, even though RuffStuff's pricing is way better than locally, shipping would have killed any savings.

"Chilton's and Haynes are for brake jobs, oil changes and starting campfires." - CJ7-Tim
'98 2dr/5spd Cherokee rockin' on tons, 5.9L V8 Magnum, HP60/14b, 5.13:1, locked, 14" coilovers, Dana 300 4:1 twin stick... oink oink!
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post #43 of 301 Old 09-28-2011, 01:45 PM Thread Starter
andrewmacc
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Anyone else dealt with xtralights.com before?
http://www.xtralights.com/79-01jeepc...itpackage.aspx

I bought it, thinking, "Hey let's see how they are, looks like they actually come with a projector lens".. with the bi-xenons, stupid thing came out to $240. I can handle that, we spend worse on little things. Us Heep guys.

But then I started to reeeeaaad:
http://www.resellerratings.com/store/Xtralights
http://www.bizrate.com/ratings_guide...d--141707.html
http://www.yelp.ca/biz/xtralights-richmond
http://www.bbb.org/mbc/business-revi...ond-bc-1226903

And I was like




So I phoned, at like 2:00am, and left a voice mail saying "cancel my order, please, don't ship it out - I just realized it won't work with my system" (I didn't want to say "apparently you guys suck balls").. I check my e-mail in the morning, "product shipped!".. .. .. well, refer to image above again.

Anyone had experience? Is it as crap as people say?
I know that if I manage to return them, (their warehouse listed is literally a 45 minute drive from my house so I can probably just storm up there). I know that next time I will do it properly at theretrofitsource.com with their fxr projector.

"Chilton's and Haynes are for brake jobs, oil changes and starting campfires." - CJ7-Tim
'98 2dr/5spd Cherokee rockin' on tons, 5.9L V8 Magnum, HP60/14b, 5.13:1, locked, 14" coilovers, Dana 300 4:1 twin stick... oink oink!
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post #44 of 301 Old 09-28-2011, 03:03 PM
jkl
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Originally Posted by andrewmacc View Post
But then I started to reeeeaaad........
That sucks, I hate finding out things like that after a purchase.
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post #45 of 301 Old 09-28-2011, 03:37 PM Thread Starter
andrewmacc
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jkl View Post
That sucks, I hate finding out things like that after a purchase.
Got lucky, actually. Made a call, and asked if they had actually shipped out or if it was just the shipping label that got created.
He said "it will be shipping out early today", so I quickly had him cancel it, and got an e-mail confirmation of the cancellation. Now just to keep an eye out to make sure the charge itself is reversed on the CC.

For all I know, the lights may have been okay (although reviews said they were cheap too), but there's no way I would deal with a business like that if that's how they treat customers.

"Chilton's and Haynes are for brake jobs, oil changes and starting campfires." - CJ7-Tim
'98 2dr/5spd Cherokee rockin' on tons, 5.9L V8 Magnum, HP60/14b, 5.13:1, locked, 14" coilovers, Dana 300 4:1 twin stick... oink oink!
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