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Building a Bumper?Ruffstuff Axle Simple Swap Kit!~Artec JK 1 TON SWAP~

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Unread 09-02-2011, 11:20 PM   #16
EricsXJ
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Should be a good build. Interested in seeing how you do the coilovers.

I'm a bit curious why you plan on sticking with just 37's with those big pumkins, or are the 37's just to get you by since you already have them? I assume you'll shave the 14b...

Also why not go a little deeper on the gearing to 5.38? Even with 37's I think that will be ideal and better if you have plans to go bigger.

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Unread 09-02-2011, 11:39 PM   #17
justanotherjpr
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Maybe it's 37's till they wear out?
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Unread 09-03-2011, 06:31 AM   #18
andrewmacc
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On my phone so I'll have to keep it short so I don't get frustrated.

Using the gear calculator, 5.13s keep me properly streetable with 37s+ without it revving too high, IMO. Also, the difference in crawl speed I felt was negligible because with 5.13 and a 4:1 transfercase, I don't see the necessity to squeeze out that last bit of gearing. But trust me, it went through my head a million times.

The 37s, I already have, and that's about the size limit for any amount of comfort left on-road. When funds allow it, I'll shave the 14 bolt properly with a shaved gearset and all. For now, it's ground smooth, but is a bit of an anchor. The front 60 I have no problems with the clearance I'll have.

The coilovers shouldn't be too bad. My math shoots me at 5" up, 9" down. We'll see how real world translates that. I may be a little higher than desired, so eventually I'll need to lower it some and cut more. Maybe custom wheel wells and all. We'll see how high it is first. It will definitely take some dialing in.

Thanks for the constructive comments, keep them coming and don't be afraid to say I goofed up.
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'98 2dr/5spd Cherokee rockin' on tons, 5.9L V8 Magnum, HP60/14b, 5.13:1, locked, 14" coilovers, Dana 300 4:1 twin stick... oink oink!
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Unread 09-09-2011, 02:08 AM   #19
andrewmacc
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Mounted and balanced.



So close.. tomorrow I should get a call back from the electricians who will hopefully be rewiring my welder (we had to tear out the 240v wiring so I've been waiting and waiting and waiting, I can't make any more progress without it.. let's just say that hasn't been fun.)



Gears and the Grizzly.



Not fully assembled. Had to take it back out (didn't tighten the ring gear bolts, nobody freak out), waiting on my friend because I'd rather use a shop press to get those bearings off than one of my very bad 2am brilliant epiphanies with a sledgehammer.
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"Chilton's and Haynes are for brake jobs, oil changes and starting campfires." - CJ7-Tim
'98 2dr/5spd Cherokee rockin' on tons, 5.9L V8 Magnum, HP60/14b, 5.13:1, locked, 14" coilovers, Dana 300 4:1 twin stick... oink oink!
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Unread 09-10-2011, 02:28 PM   #20
mistertierney
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Andrew buddy, keep up the good work. Wish i could be there for all the fun. Keep the pics comin man!
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Unread 09-10-2011, 04:13 PM   #21
jkl
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1 Ton XJ on 40s...went up in flames :(
1 Ton Scrambler Build Thread:"Project Taildragger"
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Unread 09-11-2011, 06:56 AM   #22
andrewmacc
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mistertierney View Post
Andrew buddy, keep up the good work. Wish i could be there for all the fun. Keep the pics comin man!
I could definitely use your help, Nick. You could prevent me from goofing up. I tacked the spring perches on for the rear, trying to make sure I had measured right (to be fair, I only measured once, d'oh).. bolted it all up loosely only to find out the axle is off center by like an inch toward the driver side.

Gotta run to Princess Auto this morning when it opens, the spring plates have 3 holes (for adjustment) for the center pin to fit in - problem is that for whatever reason they didn't drill the spring plate holes larger than the center pin holes themselves (in the perch), so obviously any nut on there is too big. So I'll drill out the plates by one size (9/16").

Just ordered some stuff from RockAuto;
calipers, D300 shifter seals, 1998 Dodge 2500 master cylinder.

The last of my shopping list is coming near.. just need a good length of tube for the shock hoops and brace, some plate for the upper control arm mounts, some smaller plate to fill in the areas where the TnT "frame stiffeners" won't reach.

And thinking of chopping out those flimsy looking shackle hanger boxes for some beefier ones.


Quote:
Originally Posted by jkl View Post

Been watching your thread! You've certainly been making more progress than I have. I like it. And like I mentioned, I like how low you're staying. Keep it up.
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'98 2dr/5spd Cherokee rockin' on tons, 5.9L V8 Magnum, HP60/14b, 5.13:1, locked, 14" coilovers, Dana 300 4:1 twin stick... oink oink!
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Unread 09-11-2011, 04:24 PM   #23
andrewmacc
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Again, it's all mock-up. No one person should have to take this long for just a rear axle. It's kinda embarrassing. I blame magnets.

Looks cool though.



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"Chilton's and Haynes are for brake jobs, oil changes and starting campfires." - CJ7-Tim
'98 2dr/5spd Cherokee rockin' on tons, 5.9L V8 Magnum, HP60/14b, 5.13:1, locked, 14" coilovers, Dana 300 4:1 twin stick... oink oink!
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Unread 09-19-2011, 02:35 AM   #24
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Got some fancy rock lights:
it's so nice shipping stuff to Washington, shipping is cheap, taxes are less. That's my place in Blaine, WA.




And started pulling the NP231. The long arm crossmember has so many more bolts. :|
A good thing, to be certain, but makes removing it more frustrating. So I'll pull it, steal the speedo sensor and front/rear yokes off it, swap all that over to the Dana 300, tap and plug and make new drain and fill plugs, as well as a new breather nipple off the top plate.

Then we'll see how much sheet metal that I need to cut to fit this sucker, as well as mocking up shifters.
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"Chilton's and Haynes are for brake jobs, oil changes and starting campfires." - CJ7-Tim
'98 2dr/5spd Cherokee rockin' on tons, 5.9L V8 Magnum, HP60/14b, 5.13:1, locked, 14" coilovers, Dana 300 4:1 twin stick... oink oink!
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Unread 09-19-2011, 04:08 PM   #25
86cherokeek20
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ya switched to the 14 bolt?
HUGE win on that decision so many more options and accessories for it, as well as its strength, even in stock i was rockin 37s with a 350 and foot to the floor!
comin along good though
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Unread 09-19-2011, 09:06 PM   #26
andrewmacc
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 86cherokeek20 View Post
ya switched to the 14 bolt?
HUGE win on that decision so many more options and accessories for it, as well as its strength, even in stock i was rockin 37s with a 350 and foot to the floor!
comin along good though
Totally agreed. After weighing the options (no pun!), the 14 bolt was the clear winner.. more aftermarket support, more factual information, more versatile, the separate pinion support and integrated pinion support bearing, and the ability to first give it a grinder shave, and then hack off a few inches when necessary..

well it certainly beats out the Dana 70 to me, even though it's 35 spline vs 30 spline of the 14 bolt.

Thanks! Yeah, I've been pretty busy lately, trying to get my stuff back from my no-longer-girlfriend of 3 years , so I didn't get the t/case out like I wanted to. The crossmember is down - with a few sheared bolts. Oh good. It gets darker sooner so I started on it too late and had no good light. I'll have it out tomorrow for sure.

Anyway. I was gonna do the regearing myself, and in the future I will, but my buddy hooked up with a great deal on $150 per axle for a regear!
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"Chilton's and Haynes are for brake jobs, oil changes and starting campfires." - CJ7-Tim
'98 2dr/5spd Cherokee rockin' on tons, 5.9L V8 Magnum, HP60/14b, 5.13:1, locked, 14" coilovers, Dana 300 4:1 twin stick... oink oink!
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Unread 09-19-2011, 09:16 PM   #27
1stblack97ZJ
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rear axle is lookin sexy!
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Unread 09-20-2011, 05:54 PM   #28
andrewmacc
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Thanks!

Okay, so as I was starting to suspect, I want to design a new crossmember. The Rusty's piece of crap is a 3 piece crossmember.... Yeah. A 3 piece crossmember where all 3 pieces need to come out to remove the transfercase.


The other 2 pieces are on the ground being stared at with contempt.

It takes just about all these bolts just to get the crossmember out:


So I'm asking my friend to help me hash out a design for a new (or modify this one) crossmember that allows the suspension components to stay in, but the center able to drop out. A real 3 piece crossmember.

Random photo time! My super technical transmission holder apparatus:
it's perfectly safe don't give me any grief (famous last words.)



The eagle eyed reader will notice I'm running 33" Mud Countries up front now, as opposed to the MtZ's I had there. I let a friend snatch them off me, (who is also a user here, "mistertierney") as well as my steering stabilizer that we had to paint pink. Wish I took a picture. I let them go for a pretty good deal because he was easily the most supportive friend about my old crap bucket Jeep, and helped me do way too many last minute fixes before wheeling trips.

More random irrelevant photos:


And for EricsXJ, ground clearance actually isn't as bad as I was worried about, even with 37"s on this anchor:
Don't ask about the paint. It was the first can I saw, and I just wanted to paint over the raw steel. I'm thinking desert tan for the final paint.
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"Chilton's and Haynes are for brake jobs, oil changes and starting campfires." - CJ7-Tim
'98 2dr/5spd Cherokee rockin' on tons, 5.9L V8 Magnum, HP60/14b, 5.13:1, locked, 14" coilovers, Dana 300 4:1 twin stick... oink oink!
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Unread 09-20-2011, 06:00 PM   #29
justanotherjpr
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Looking forward to the crossmember
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Unread 09-20-2011, 08:29 PM   #30
andrewmacc
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Quote:
Originally Posted by justanotherjpr View Post
Looking forward to the crossmember
Me too. I hope it doesn't suck.
I won't lie, if it seems like I can't get one done in an adequate timeframe I'll just reuse the Crusty's one, but I don't want to.


Aaaaand with this finally accomplished:



I am done for the night! I love going inside and looking in the mirror afterward. I think I changed ethnicities while underneath that mud bucket.

One thing I forgot to do, was that even though I had unhooked the plugs, breather (well, tore the breather), and the shifter linkage - is that there's a clip that holds the small branch-off for the O2 sensor and t/c sensors that went very taut after I dropped it.. no damage, but wish I had remembered - it's a 15mm bolt, and it's actually one of the bolts that help hold the 2 case shells together.


If you look dead center of the wiring, you'll actually see the clip. It's just an L-shaped bracket with a bolt hole.

Whew!
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"Chilton's and Haynes are for brake jobs, oil changes and starting campfires." - CJ7-Tim
'98 2dr/5spd Cherokee rockin' on tons, 5.9L V8 Magnum, HP60/14b, 5.13:1, locked, 14" coilovers, Dana 300 4:1 twin stick... oink oink!
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