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Unread 07-08-2013, 11:53 PM   #271
NHJeep4x4
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Looks great!

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Unread 07-18-2013, 02:35 PM   #272
andrewmacc
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And that is how you stuff a Mopar V8 into an XJ..

I wanted as much room at the oilpan for the panhard and draglink that I will have to modify the alternator mounting.



Lots of room for tune-ups... I did hit the pinch seam or whatever that is, while removing and installing the motor/tranny, so I'll straighten it out for looks.
Also just threw some bolts and tie wire around the wiring harness for now, because if it doesn't run, I'd like to be able to snip the harness out quickly.


Very little clearance, but unless my bushings are blown I don't think it should move that much..
Really need to clean up the cutting in the fender well! :P
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"Chilton's and Haynes are for brake jobs, oil changes and starting campfires." - CJ7-Tim
'98 2dr/5spd Cherokee rockin' on tons, 5.9L V8 Magnum, HP60/14b, 5.13:1, locked, 14" coilovers, Dana 300 4:1 twin stick... oink oink!
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Unread 07-28-2013, 07:10 PM   #273
andrewmacc
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Quote:
Originally Posted by NHJeep4x4 View Post
Looks great!
Never saw this, thanks man! At least you're on the trail now, though! Bah!


Been getting lots of time to work my butt off on this, so another update, but a small one still.

Gotta love recycling and reusing old stuff. This is the old crossmember, I had to modify it to fit the new positioning of the transmission, what with the V8 being much shorter than the long block i6.


Layered some 1/8" and a bridge etc etc.. the asymmetrical hunk of.. thing, on the right is from the old crossmember, my plasma hated cutting it with my old crap compressor a long time ago, because it's either 3/8" or 1/2" thick plate so I never bothered make it nice and even.



Painted the alt-a/c cradle with the candy green paint (I have no metallic silver on hand as a base, so unfortunately it just ends up being a bright green)


Just doing some odds and ends.. I used a hardline cutter and split the Dodge fuel line, it's just too long with the hardline attached to both of the flex lines. Some 5/16" FI hose and good clamps will do the trick until I pay for a full braided replacement line. Redid some of the fenderwells, welded a few studs for grounds, some tabs to hold the fuel line/brake line/evap hoses. Now I mostly need to make a few more grounds, a battery holder, PDC mount, etc.

My exhaust all arrived from mandrel-bends.com, got one of their builder kits, and I got a near mint XJ hood for $20 to chop up.
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"Chilton's and Haynes are for brake jobs, oil changes and starting campfires." - CJ7-Tim
'98 2dr/5spd Cherokee rockin' on tons, 5.9L V8 Magnum, HP60/14b, 5.13:1, locked, 14" coilovers, Dana 300 4:1 twin stick... oink oink!
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Unread 07-28-2013, 09:05 PM   #274
NHJeep4x4
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Nice work as usual.
Yeah it's good to be on the trail finally. Now after running it, I know what else I need to fix. Seeing your build kinda makes me want a V8 now, but I'm out of patience and money.
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Unread 07-29-2013, 05:02 AM   #275
andrewmacc
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Quote:
Originally Posted by NHJeep4x4 View Post
Nice work as usual.
Yeah it's good to be on the trail finally. Now after running it, I know what else I need to fix. Seeing your build kinda makes me want a V8 now, but I'm out of patience and money.
Thanks man!
Yeah I had that same experience. Always stuff to change. It's a Jeep, it's never done! Bah, a V8 swap in an XJ is cool, but oh my god what a pain in the butt. I'm running out of patience myself.

Aaaaaand on that note, this is why.. I need help. I will be posting this in the Wrangler V8 swap thread too..
Got (I believe!) all the grounds hammered out, but still no start. Checked voltage on the battery with a multimeter and it's a strong 12.5 to 12.7 volts. I'm going to try the Jeep PCM (again) with some changes, but I'm lost.

Gauge lights flash their initial diagnostic for a sec, but nothing registers. No odometer, no crank, no fuel pump whine. Dash lights work, signals are making a craazy noise, not sure what's going on. Not sure if I just need to get a hold of a 1998 Dodge PCM instead of the 1997 I have..

Any advice? These videos are only 20 seconds long and I could use a hint.

Signal craziness:

Just the gauge check and then nothing:
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"Chilton's and Haynes are for brake jobs, oil changes and starting campfires." - CJ7-Tim
'98 2dr/5spd Cherokee rockin' on tons, 5.9L V8 Magnum, HP60/14b, 5.13:1, locked, 14" coilovers, Dana 300 4:1 twin stick... oink oink!
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Unread 07-29-2013, 08:00 AM   #276
cavscout187
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Wow I'm interested in finding this one out you shouldn't have done anything with turn signals I know tjs need the grounded above the head light to work
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Unread 07-29-2013, 01:37 PM   #277
tjsean0308
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Quote:
Originally Posted by andrewmacc View Post

Painted the alt-a/c cradle with the candy green paint (I have no metallic silver on hand as a base, so unfortunately it just ends up being a bright green)
Looking at your alternator that is the older style of wiring with the diode box or whatever on the back like the 96 ZJ I used the accessories from. What year was your donor?

Quote:
Originally Posted by cavscout187 View Post
Wow I'm interested in finding this one out you shouldn't have done anything with turn signals I know tjs need the grounded above the head light to work
We are barking up the same tree in two threads now. I remember grounds on the radiator support on the older pre 95 XJs but not sure on the late models.

The turn signals seem like a dropped ground on the main harness somewhere. Or a hinky connection at the relay box. Do the headlights work? I saw the dash lights light up but couldn't see the headlights.
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Unread 07-29-2013, 06:48 PM   #278
andrewmacc
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Quote:
Originally Posted by tjsean0308 View Post
Looking at your alternator that is the older style of wiring with the diode box or whatever on the back like the 96 ZJ I used the accessories from. What year was your donor?



We are barking up the same tree in two threads now. I remember grounds on the radiator support on the older pre 95 XJs but not sure on the late models.

The turn signals seem like a dropped ground on the main harness somewhere. Or a hinky connection at the relay box. Do the headlights work? I saw the dash lights light up but couldn't see the headlights.

Sorry, that alternator in the background there actually belongs to the girlfriend's father.. it's a big old (but brand new) SI-style alternator that bolted up to his previous big rig semi. The alternator I'm using is just the HD 130-amp-or-so Jeep style alternator from my XJ.

I just posted in the Wrangler V8 thread, but the headlights still don't turn on, but I see no grounds, other than perhaps that they ground out with the headlight buckets bolted in...?
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"Chilton's and Haynes are for brake jobs, oil changes and starting campfires." - CJ7-Tim
'98 2dr/5spd Cherokee rockin' on tons, 5.9L V8 Magnum, HP60/14b, 5.13:1, locked, 14" coilovers, Dana 300 4:1 twin stick... oink oink!
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Unread 07-30-2013, 10:36 PM   #279
tjsean0308
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The buckets wouldn't be the ground for the bulbs. One of the three wires eventually goes to a ground. Did you get a line on a good wiring diagram?
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Unread 07-31-2013, 01:29 AM   #280
andrewmacc
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Quote:
Originally Posted by tjsean0308 View Post
The buckets wouldn't be the ground for the bulbs. One of the three wires eventually goes to a ground. Did you get a line on a good wiring diagram?
Ah, touche. Well, I got it to crank like no tomorrow. Just took some detective work.. even a totally brand new relay got roasted somehow.. I can smell gas like crazy, but I need to check for spark. I swapped between a manual CKPS and a washer-spaced automatic CKPS and no start.. can't be ASD anymore, I don't think, with the fuel pump smelling up the shop.
Apparently the 1997 Dodge PCM will kill the gauges, so swapping to the XJ PCM gave me my gauges back for now.. I guess I need a 1998 Dodge PCM after all..?

I pulled a code on the XJ PCM using the spaced-out auto CKPS but I'm not sure how relevant it is running the Dodge motor, and it was P0320 "Ignition/Distributor Engine Speed Input Circuit".

The other code was just P1492 "Ambient/Battery Temp Sens Volts Too Hi", guess I should hook it back up, my buddy snipped it off my truck a long time ago. :\

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"Chilton's and Haynes are for brake jobs, oil changes and starting campfires." - CJ7-Tim
'98 2dr/5spd Cherokee rockin' on tons, 5.9L V8 Magnum, HP60/14b, 5.13:1, locked, 14" coilovers, Dana 300 4:1 twin stick... oink oink!
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Unread 08-21-2013, 11:58 PM   #281
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Well, it's August 21st now. And it has finally started.
There are some issues that need resolving that I'm not too happy about, so we'll see how that plays out, so it's a little bittersweet. But I trust it'll work out, but I suppose I won't be driving it this summer like expected.


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"Chilton's and Haynes are for brake jobs, oil changes and starting campfires." - CJ7-Tim
'98 2dr/5spd Cherokee rockin' on tons, 5.9L V8 Magnum, HP60/14b, 5.13:1, locked, 14" coilovers, Dana 300 4:1 twin stick... oink oink!
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Unread 08-22-2013, 10:46 AM   #282
dukie564
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what turned out to be the cause of the no-start?
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http://www.jeepforum.com/forum/f22/project-danger-cart-xj-1297118/
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Unread 09-25-2013, 07:39 PM   #283
andrewmacc
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dukie564 View Post
what turned out to be the cause of the no-start?
The wiring was sub-par. The no-start was the coil wire was soldered to the ASD wire on the engine-to-body harness connector. I wired in an oil pressure sensor from a junkyard harness to the PCM connector, so now that works again. I depinned some of the crap that was hanging, and tore apart the loom and tape and redid it. Nothing I can do now about all of the soldered connections simply being taped up instead of heatshrink wrap.

The fuel pump primes repeatedly, which I still can't find the issue to, something to do with the crank sensor it seems like. I don't know though. I put a switch on the ASD ignition wire in the column ignition harness. Doubles as theft deterrent at least, now. Whatever.

Cut out the wheel wells:



Got a new toy:
Everlast 200dx 200-amp ac/dc TIG w/ pulse and SMAW. Going to eventually swap out the bulky 26 torch for a 9 series or similar. My first batch of argon was bad, so that was annoying.



Shop's getting messier as I'm trying to put it back together:
Ended up with an 82.5" long 7-rib serpentine belt in my config, no a/c and using a ZJ pump pulley with the XJ pump. Twice as expensive as stock, it seems.


I needed to choke the strap way more, I couldn't get the Jeep to compress enough, I still had like 5" downtravel and 2" uptravel left. I was trying to see how the front driveshaft is going to work out with the sheet metal and the starter casting now on the driver's side. If I had a low pinion front axle it wouldn't even be a question, but the HP60 and how high I have my d300 tucked up, the driveshaft takes up some definite real estate in some sensitive areas near the gas pedal. I wanted to get my d300 clocking ring redrilled, but after double checking, there's not enough space to drill all 6 holes again in a lower mounting position. If I could have it clocked like stock it wouldn't be an issue, again, but I'm not drilling my ax15 adapter housing or the likes.



One of those little studs on the top of the radiator got stripped, so I'll have to retain the rad another way on that side.

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"Chilton's and Haynes are for brake jobs, oil changes and starting campfires." - CJ7-Tim
'98 2dr/5spd Cherokee rockin' on tons, 5.9L V8 Magnum, HP60/14b, 5.13:1, locked, 14" coilovers, Dana 300 4:1 twin stick... oink oink!
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Unread 09-27-2013, 07:51 PM   #284
freaknajeep
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looking awesome bro...hey by chance is that the green paint everybody claims makes your stuff invincible??? if so where do I get some...lol...that's a sweet looking tig, is it a multi machine or strickly tig..i.e. can It be switched to plasma mode?...I have a longevity that does both...but I haven't set up the tig part yet...
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Unread 10-05-2013, 04:43 PM   #285
andrewmacc
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Quote:
Originally Posted by freaknajeep View Post
looking awesome bro...hey by chance is that the green paint everybody claims makes your stuff invincible??? if so where do I get some...lol...that's a sweet looking tig, is it a multi machine or strickly tig..i.e. can It be switched to plasma mode?...I have a longevity that does both...but I haven't set up the tig part yet...
Well if it makes my rig invincible, then I'm all for it. Guess we'll find out.

Strictly AC/DC TIG, with a pulser. Just what I wanted. I already have a Chinese plasma cutter that does well on 1/4". It just doesn't have the world's greatest torch set up for visibility, the plasma cup is very large. But it's been working for years and years, even after my buddy broke the plastic thread-on fitting for the torch to the machine.
For fabbing on the Jeep, I switched back to the MIG until I ran out of wire. The TIG is a little difficult to weld out of position with my skill level with it thus far. I find I have to put way too much heat into it to get an autogenous tack while trying to hold something in place with the other hand.
I did make a leaf spring shackle with it, though.

Got the wheel wells notched more for the shock hoops, frame plating partly tacked on when I ran out of wire. Shock hoops not in position, just gives an idea. They will land on top of the u-bolt plate. Not my favourite spot for them, but it gets them out of the way, unlike before with the shocks hanging down 5" under the axle.
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"Chilton's and Haynes are for brake jobs, oil changes and starting campfires." - CJ7-Tim
'98 2dr/5spd Cherokee rockin' on tons, 5.9L V8 Magnum, HP60/14b, 5.13:1, locked, 14" coilovers, Dana 300 4:1 twin stick... oink oink!
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