Going to be a build with tons of pics of the long arm build up on a TJ. All work is designed, cut, welded, fabricated, etc by Joe from EndlessMtnFab EndlessMtnFab
Originally Posted by EndlessMtnFab
Bolting on a long arm kit can generally be done in a weekend. Properly designing & building a suspension takes time. Although not an "easy" task, most folks with a bit of knowledge and skill can build a long arm and wheel it. But it takes a little extra effort to set one up for suitable street driving.
Ryan is also up against some driveline angle issues. His tucked skid, combined with 4.5 inch springs leaves him with a drivesshaft angle of 22° and a pinion angle of 19°. The average 1310 CV maxes out at roughly 25° and Ryan is currently using 18° so far. This doesn't leave sufficient amount for droop. In fact .... the CV binds before the coils can fully unseat. The solution we are considering is a clearanced 1350 Setup to allow for greater strength AND flex. A clearanced 1350 generally offers 32-35° of movement.
In regards to the repair .... both sides will be cut out equally. The passenger side damage is not as extensive as the driver side; however, I do see random spots of soft/pocked metal and will be pro-active in the repair. The patch will be .125 plate and will be "frenched" into the cuts. Once welded, I will grind everything flush and plate over with a larger piece to ensure sufficient overlap. The overlapping plate will be perimeter & plug welded.
After making the proper height allowances to clear the transfer case and allow access to remove the nuts and bolts it was determined that the 2x5 piece of metal had far too much movement for our liking and we decided to move on to another idea.
Threaded bungs being inserted into frame rail for cross member to attach to