Project Stay out of the Pines. - JeepForum.com

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post #1 of 50 Old 05-19-2010, 09:03 PM Thread Starter
MuddyJeepZJ
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Project Stay out of the Pines.

Going to be a build with tons of pics of the long arm build up on a TJ. All work is designed, cut, welded, fabricated, etc by Joe from EndlessMtnFab EndlessMtnFab
Quote:
Originally Posted by EndlessMtnFab
Bolting on a long arm kit can generally be done in a weekend. Properly designing & building a suspension takes time. Although not an "easy" task, most folks with a bit of knowledge and skill can build a long arm and wheel it. But it takes a little extra effort to set one up for suitable street driving.
8.8 axle Pre-Removal



8.8 Removal





Ballistic Fab Brackets


8.8 truss Mock-up










2004 Jeep Wrangler Rubicon
2003 Dodge Ram 3500
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Last edited by MuddyJeepZJ; 05-19-2010 at 09:23 PM.
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post #2 of 50 Old 05-19-2010, 09:04 PM Thread Starter
MuddyJeepZJ
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231 Transfer Case Upgrade/Rebuild
Quote:
Originally Posted by EndlessMtnFab
Ryan is also up against some driveline angle issues. His tucked skid, combined with 4.5 inch springs leaves him with a drivesshaft angle of 22 and a pinion angle of 19. The average 1310 CV maxes out at roughly 25 and Ryan is currently using 18 so far. This doesn't leave sufficient amount for droop. In fact .... the CV binds before the coils can fully unseat. The solution we are considering is a clearanced 1350 Setup to allow for greater strength AND flex. A clearanced 1350 generally offers 32-35 of movement.







Rear Coil Relocation














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post #3 of 50 Old 05-19-2010, 09:05 PM Thread Starter
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Frame Repair
Quote:
Originally Posted by EndlessMtnFab
In regards to the repair .... both sides will be cut out equally. The passenger side damage is not as extensive as the driver side; however, I do see random spots of soft/pocked metal and will be pro-active in the repair. The patch will be .125 plate and will be "frenched" into the cuts. Once welded, I will grind everything flush and plate over with a larger piece to ensure sufficient overlap. The overlapping plate will be perimeter & plug welded.

















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post #4 of 50 Old 05-24-2010, 09:28 PM Thread Starter
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8.8 Bracket Removal and Truss Build














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post #5 of 50 Old 05-24-2010, 09:29 PM Thread Starter
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post #6 of 50 Old 05-25-2010, 08:49 PM Thread Starter
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Finishing up the Rear truss.


Bent to attach to truss

Welded into place


ABS Sensor Removal and hole filled





Lower Control Arm Brackets





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post #7 of 50 Old 05-31-2010, 06:52 PM Thread Starter
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8.8 Breather tube relocation




Truss Welded Up




LCA mounted on Axle


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post #8 of 50 Old 05-31-2010, 06:58 PM
Hendrix
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Thats some great work so far. Crawled
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post #9 of 50 Old 05-31-2010, 07:24 PM
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damn thats a lot of rust!!!
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post #10 of 50 Old 05-31-2010, 08:18 PM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by littledevilTJ View Post
damn thats a lot of rust!!!
Yeah I was shocked myself. Hence the name of the thread. The amount of rusted off pieces of metal along with sand inside he frame was amazing.

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post #11 of 50 Old 05-31-2010, 08:20 PM Thread Starter
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Cross Member Round #1 using 2x5 steel






After making the proper height allowances to clear the transfer case and allow access to remove the nuts and bolts it was determined that the 2x5 piece of metal had far too much movement for our liking and we decided to move on to another idea.

Threaded bungs being inserted into frame rail for cross member to attach to











Cross Member Round 2 using 1/4" flat steel


Save a Horse ride a band saw!

Cutting the UCA brackets out of 2x5

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post #12 of 50 Old 05-31-2010, 08:22 PM Thread Starter
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Rear cross member mocked up with LCA and UCA brackets in place.
Additional bracing will be coming after final fitment as well.

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post #13 of 50 Old 06-06-2010, 08:10 PM Thread Starter
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Cross Member Round #2












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post #14 of 50 Old 06-24-2010, 08:38 PM Thread Starter
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Getting close to the back being complete.
















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post #15 of 50 Old 06-25-2010, 09:38 PM Thread Starter
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Ford Shock Mounts






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