I finally got both of my shocks mocked up on both sides. Everything seems to be working well except for one minor-ish issue.
Here are some pictures:
Full stuff driver and full droop passenger.
A side view with the drivers side stuffed:
And for the 'issue'. I have a cab and chassis 14bff which is 63" WMS-WMS. I had originally planned to run H2 wheels to keep things narrow. I found the Iroks cheap with wheels and picked them up. The steel wheels have 4.5" backspacing. The H2 wheels have ~5.5" backspacing. Shortly after getting the 39's I realized that the H2's weren't going to work. Then this week, I realized that the steel wheels that came with my tires aren't going to work without some significant suspension travel limitations. Otherwise the tire will contact the shock at the limits of suspension travel. In the pictures above I have placed ~0.5" of washers on the wheel studs to space the wheel away from the hub. This allows the tires to travel through the full range of motion allowed by the shocks without contacting anything. The issue is that this thing is getting wider and wider. Here is a shot down the side of the jeep:
So you can see that there is a significant amount of tire sticking out past the body of the jeep. ~8" of tread to be a little more precise which is ~2" further than I was planning. It will make meeting tire coverage requirements a challenge. I think that I can figure something out to solve this issue. I definitely can't go any wider though. Unfortunately this also means that I have 2 sets of wheels that won't work. The way I see it, I have 2 options.
1. New wheels ($$$$)
2. 1.5" spacers to use the H2 wheels. ($)
The only issue with spacers is that is is going to somewhat complicate the modifications that I'm going to make the my front Dana 60. Any thoughts?
I've put some thought into this and formulated a plan. I am going to use the H2 wheels and put 1.5" spacers on the rear axle. Then, I will modify the front axle to use a 78-79 ford Dana 60 passenger side shaft which is ~2.5" shorter than what I have now. That will put my WMS-WMS on the front at 66.5" and the rear will be 66" and I'll be able to use stock length shafts all around. I think that I should be able to make the steering work with 39's and 66.5" wms-wms. So left to do on the rear axle swap:
1. Button up frame notches for shocks and shock mounts and install fish plates.
2. Install rear anti-rock.
3. Finish weld links and frame side brackets and axle side shock mounts.
4. Install fuell and vent lines and complete installation of new fuel tank.
5. Install rear brake lines and parking brake cables.
6. Button up the notch I put in the rear cross member.
7. Paint rear axle and install pinion guard.
8. Figure out where the exhaust is going to go and install new muffler and tailpipe.
I think that is a fairly comprehensive list for now. After I finish all of that, I'm going to start rebuilding the Dana 300 which will be flipped and installed in place of my NP231. I'm also going to start on a flat (ish?) belly skid plate.
Once that is done, it will be on to the front axle swap and possibe stretch. Still lots of planning to do on the front.
Well I haven't updated in 4 months because I haven't gotten anything done in that time. I had run out of motivation so the jeep just sat in the garage for a while. I'm back at it again to some extent and am working on getting the rear anti-rock installed. I got the 45" custom kit with 18" straight arms to install in front of the wheel arch. The sway bar goes over the parking brake bracket.
I mounted the axle side brackets angled slightly forward of the axle centerline. They are closer to vertical than horizontal and I think that I'm going to have to take them off and put them closer to horizontal than vertical to stay away from the springs.
The problem I'm having is that I simply don't have enough space for the sway bar or links on the outside of the frame to clear the tires at full articulation. The straight arms are very tight to the frame and have to stay above the springs because the outside of the springs stick out beyond the frame rails. Doing this keeps the arms above the top of the tire and keeps the links in the danger zone under articulation. I'm thinking that the solution may be to put a slight bend in the arms to clear the springs so I can run them below the top of the tire. I also plan to relocate the axle side brackets so that I can put the ball joint (end of the link mount) inboard on the axle side instead of outboard. I can't put them inboard now because there is interference with the springs.
Anyone ever put a bend in an antirock arm or have any suggestions on how to or any other suggestions?
I've come to the realization that 63" wms and 40" tires on wheels with decent backspacing on a full body TJ just doesn't work. I got my Iroks mounted on my H2s and threw them on for a test fit. The cab and chassis hubs are just too narrow with this combination. I have a set of SRW hubs that if used will set the wheels out 2" wider on each side. Using these hubs would get me the width I need but wouldn't allow me to use the stock brake mounting points. I could get some weld-on brake brackets and remedy that but it would make it harder to go back to the stock drum brakes if necessary. This would cost an additional $50 is for the weld on brackets.
Option 2 is to get some 2" thick wheel spacers and use the cab and chassis hubs. This would cost me an additional $200 for spacers.
I think that both of these options suck, I just can't figure out which one sucks less. I'm leaning toward the SRW hubs and weld on brackets. Thoughts?
Great work, I hope you can stay motivated so we can see this thing continue!!!
[COLOR="Red"]... I guess I'm gonna have to fix that too…….[/COLOR]
2005 Wrangler X 4.0/6 speed, Dana 30/Ford 8.8--4.88--Eaton E-Lockers, 35" MT/R, Smittybilt bumpers/rockers/winch, SonicFab tire carrier, RE 3.5 springs, Zone 1.25 BL, FullTraction 3 link upper rear, RE super flex lower rears, UCF ultra high skid and lo/pro mount, brown dog mml.
Great work, I hope you can stay motivated so we can see this thing continue!!!
Thanks. I'll get it done, just taking longer than I hoped. When I do the front, I'm going try to get more kit type stuff.
Originally Posted by jkl
That's the option I would choose. I see no reason to go back to the drum brakes.
That is the directions I think I'm going to go. I'm just concerned that the parking brake in caddy calipers I have won't cut it. I think that if they don't work, I will either go to a driveline parking brake or adapt some of the van brakes (disc with internal parking brake).
Just a quick update on this. I've been able to finish up some small stuff like finish welding the frame brackets and links, painting everything and installing the rear sway bar. over the past 2 weekends, I installed the YJ fuel filler in the YJ location and installed the new fuel tank. Those braided stainless lines are an epic PIA...I won't be using those again. Either way, the got installed and I was able to fire the jeep up for the first time in over a year.
It was a good feeling. I still have to deal with the exhaust and a lot of small finish work but progress is being made.
I thought I'd check in with this and was fairly disappointed to see that I had fired the jeep up on November 3. I never would have guessed even close to that. Time flies. I ended up solving the width issue by making a new set up brake mounting flanges and welding them on the axle so that I could the bolt-on brake brackets that I have. This should also theoretically allow me to revert to drums. I say theoretically because I am not sure that the concentricity of the new flange is within the tolerances necessary to run drum brakes. Discs are a little more forgiving in that area. After I got that done, which took a while since I had to do it twice after learning a valuable lesson about laying down too much weld at the same time (**** go warped), I reinstalled the axle and the jeep is on it's own weight again.... So it sits on it's own weight and it runs! Still lots to do but getting closer.
Haven't updated much. Here is the latest progress. The pumpkin On this axle is offset pretty far toward the driver side which may be an issue but nothing that can't be solved with a welder and a grinder. Planning on the poly performance 3-link kit to save time. Getting tired of not being able to drive it.
Little progress. I have the lower suspension links mocked up and started on the upper. I am putting the upper on the passenger side due to lack of real estate on the drivers side. This will require exhaust modifications which I am prepared to deal with. At this point I have just cut the exhaust off before the bend around the oil pan. I'm pretty sure the exhaust manifold is cracked and I removed the whole muffler and tailpipe section when I did the rear suspension. After I get everything else done, I will handle the exhaust. It will be system wide modifications.
I had to stop with the mock up on the upper because I need to make sure there is room door the track bar mount and passenger spring bucket. At the time I didn't have my high steer arm or other steering components so I could not continue. I ordered the necessary steering arm along with drag link and tie rod ends from parts mike (I received fantastic service). I also ordered a wagoneer pitman arm from WFO but I haven't received that yet. I think it is a little longer than necessary but hopefully it will work.
Once I get the pitman arm, I will be able to make the drag link and then the track bar. Between the spring, track bar and upper control arm mounts, space will be tight on the passenger side tube. I am just using the stock Ford tie rod in the stock location right now but I plan to eventually have a custom tie rod made and flip it to the top side of the steering arms. Does anyone know if I can simply ream the holes out from the top of the knuckle? i am having a tough time finding good information on that process.
Hopefully the pitman arm arrives today and I can get some work done this weekend. And hopefully I can get some good pics at that time as well.
I am having a little trouble getting the front suspension worked out because the pumpkin is so far to the drivers side and isn't going to allow for much travel before it hits the track bar. I will have to push the axle back a bit to accommodate which will make the use of the stock coil buckets difficult.
I'm considering a few options at this point:
1. ORI struts. No need for sway bar or bump stops with these but I will need to get some shock hoops and install those. I would buy a kit from genright for this. There is also apparently a long wait on these but with the speed I work and with recent events it might not be a big issue.
2. Front stretch kit from TnT. This would allow me to move the steering box forward which would allow me to move the track bar mount forward and retain use of the stock spring buckets.
Option 1 is a little more expensive but if I can get away without the sway bar and considering what I will have to spend on new shocks, the cost difference isn't terrible.
At this point I'm leaning toward option 2. I can always do the ORIs later if I want to.
I would appreciate any thoughts.
Just as a note, that hopefully helps someone. I was trying to maneuver things around and one of my PVC links failed. The axle quickly rotated and fell off the stands and the caliper bracket landed squarely on my thigh. 32 stitches later the project is on hold and I have to come up with a more secure stand/dolly so this can't happen again. Be safe. I would have rather wasted an entire stick of DOM than be laid up the way I currently am.