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Unread 11-25-2011, 04:20 PM   #31
jose_p_adams
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Over the holiday I got to talk to my Uncle and he had a 1986 Dana 300 he didn't need and was happy to get rid of. He also tried to give me a T-176 and an AMC 304. Only the 300 would fit in my Subaru and it's probably best that way.



I just took the cover off and the internals look to be in good shape. I'm going to clean it up and start thinking about which way I want to go with it.

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Unread 11-25-2011, 08:20 PM   #32
kyle_craig
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Jeepforum needs more builds like this...looking forward to seeing more progress.
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Unread 11-25-2011, 10:12 PM   #33
JJeeper09
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Quote:
Originally Posted by kyle_craig
Jeepforum needs more builds like this...looking forward to seeing more progress.
Agreed.
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Unread 11-27-2011, 05:04 PM   #34
jose_p_adams
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So as I discussed before, I had to do something with my frame side spring brackets to move the springs back inboard so the don't rub the tires. I was also unhappy with how the frame notches came out so this was a good opportunity to re-do them.

I ended up deciding to just cut the upper portion off of the BTF spring brackets so I could slide them further under the frame. I also cut off the plates I had welded into the frame so I could more easily attach the modified brackets to the frame and make the notches more consistent.

Now my springs are 39" center to center an the frame notches are wide enough to accomodate the spring when it compresses. I still have to finish plating the driver side frame notch and re-do the fish plates to match the new notches. I also think I may need to shorten my upper links just a little.

I didn't get quite done with everything but I got close enough to put the springs in and tires on and see how it looks. Anyway, onto the pics:

Passenger side:



Driver side:



Passenger side then driver side with spring installed and supporting weight:





Some other pics I took today:








It looks a little bit tall here but I think it will settle a bit then there is a fuel tank with fuel in it as well as a spare tire and other things. Right now my 4" lift springs measure 12.5"+. I may end up with some shorter springs but for now I'm going to let it ride.



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Unread 11-27-2011, 07:31 PM   #35
jose_p_adams
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For the sake of clarity the jeep is not sitting level in the last photo because the driver side lower link got hung up on the jackstand that has been supporting the jeep for the last few months. I'll be so glad when I can take those out.
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Unread 11-27-2011, 07:51 PM   #36
jeepdog5
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What about a 231/300 doubler?
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Unread 11-27-2011, 08:28 PM   #37
jose_p_adams
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jeepdog5 View Post
What about a 231/300 doubler?
I thought about that but I think that the compound low at over 7:1 is too low and it is also another component to the drive train. It just seems too complex for the questionable benefit.

Right now my plan is to get the jeep drivable again with the 231 and work on the transfer case/skid plate when the axles are done. I will just have to pay for two drive shaft modifications.
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Unread 11-28-2011, 09:35 AM   #38
silverbulletO5
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Looks good, keep up the good work.
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Unread 11-30-2011, 11:31 AM   #39
jose_p_adams
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on a slightly different note, I want/need to replace the hard fuel line that runs along the frame rail. The frame side link mounts interfere with it and I think it would be easiest to just replace the whole thing with some flexible braided line or equivalent (I saw a product on Trucks a week or two ago that as touted to be superior to braided line but I don't remember what it was called.) I also need to replace at least a portion of the vent line as mine is badly rusted and broke during tank removal. I'm pretty sure I can get what I need to repair the vent line locally but I'm working up an order for the fittings that I will need to do the fuel line replacement.

I stole this list from the Float Test Build, post 2031.

Russel Fuel rail to -6AN: http://www.summitracing.com/parts/RUS-640860/

Russel EFI to 6AN fitting: http://www.summitracing.com/parts/RUS-640850/

Summit -6AN hose to female -6AN fitting x2: http://www.summitracing.com/parts/SUM-220690B/

There are other parts in the list but I think those are used for a vent line or something similar. Cany anyone who has done this verify that these are the fittings that I need to adapt my stock hard lines to a flexible line?
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Unread 12-01-2011, 07:58 PM   #40
Hendrix
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Summit Racing-
AER-FCC0806 (x1)
AER-FCC0606 (x1)
AER-FBM1103 (x2)
AER-FBM1123 (x1)


These will work better, Fuel safe. They sell longer rolls of the hose just search the part numbers or Aeroquip...
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Unread 12-04-2011, 05:30 PM   #41
jose_p_adams
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Today I put everything back on and the the flex out test. Everything looked good so I decided to weld everything up on the axle. I think it came out nicely but I did have a lot more spatter than I wanted.

Upper link tabs on the axle truss.




Axle truss to axle tube. Does this look it could use another pass? I had a bevel on it because the axle truss is 0.5" plate so the first pass really just filled the bevel.



Lower link mount:



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Unread 12-18-2011, 05:18 PM   #42
jose_p_adams
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Things have been busy so work has slowed a little. I built some bump stops today. Any thoughts on this design? The tubing is 0.25 wall x 2" DOM tubing because I had a few scraps laying around and the plate is 0.25" that I bought at lowes. The bump stop spacers that I had before were made from plastic and I'm sure that the 0.25" DOM is stronger than the plastic. Since the plastic worked fine, I figure this will work fine too. I still have to weld these up but I didn't feel like firing up the welder today.





Based on some preliminary measurements I'll have space for ~5" of up travel with these bumps and my current springs. The next job I will tackle is my shock mounts. I will definitely need to outboard the shocks to make them work. I haven't done any shock research yet so I don't have a plan yet. I think some 12" travel shocks would probably work pretty well for me. I'm open for any recommendations on shock options.
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Unread 12-22-2011, 10:24 AM   #43
jose_p_adams
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I am going to pick up a set of bilstein 5125's in either 11" or 12" flavor. They have a few valving options but I haven't figured that out yet and I have no practical experience so I will have to do some reading. I will probably end up putting coilovers in the front because of space restrictions on my axle.

So once I get the shocks done all I have to do is get a swaybar, get my driveshaft lengthened, run some lines for brakes an fuel, figure out my exhaust and probably a few other things and it will be done.
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Unread 12-31-2011, 04:11 PM   #44
jose_p_adams
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Well, I decided to go for a set of 12" travel, Fox 2.0 emulsion shocks. I liked the idea that they were rebuildable and re-valvable. Haven't gotten much work done due to hollidays. My girlfriend got me a sweet compressor and I worked all week running the circuit for it, etc. I am stoked to use an impact gun when I disassemble the front for the dana 60 installation.

I think I'm just going to go with the ford shock towers for the shock install. It will be a good day when they are installed.
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Unread 12-31-2011, 06:34 PM   #45
Sgt.Fuzz
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I noticed you used the BTF coil perches. I have a set in the garage waiting to be burned in, and I was also considering cutting off the top perch to offset the offset so to speak. I'm pretty sure I have enough backspacing that the tires won't rub, but your solution is more permanent. I may copy you. What degree did you set the lower perches at?
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