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ROCKRIDGE4WD Introduces a NEW Jeep Wrangler JK *led* tail ROCK BOTTOM prices on LIFT KITS at Rockridge4wd!! WANT TO NEW JK WRANGLER GRAB BARS NOW at ROCKRIDGE4WD

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Unread 10-23-2011, 02:38 PM   #16
teamgreen666
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great build keep up the good work , cant wait to see it all finished..

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Unread 10-29-2011, 11:56 AM   #17
jose_p_adams
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I got the drivers side frame modifications done and put some heavier tacks on all my brackets so I could throw the springs in and set it down on its own weight and make sure I like it. All of these pictures were taken with the jeep sitting on its own weight. I am re-using my 4 inch lift springs.



Here you can see how much space I'm working with.





And the best part of all, it's level side to side:



Overall I am happy with how it's sitting. The frame is at ~23" on the 35" tires that I have on it right now. Now I have a bunch of welding to do and then a bunch of other stuff, then I can do the front.
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Unread 10-30-2011, 01:59 PM   #18
jose_p_adams
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Here are a few pictures that don't suck quite as much.











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Unread 11-03-2011, 11:07 AM   #19
jose_p_adams
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Things seemed like they were going too smoothly so i put the tires and springs back on this week to check my work and noted that the passenger side tire is rubbing the spring while the driver side has a lot more room. I rotated the springs so that both of them were sitting in the same orientation and with the rear sitting on its own weight, the passenger side has about 3/16" clearance between the tire and spring and the driver side has about 1/2". I checked this by using different thicknesses of metal between the tire and spring. So to fix this, I would need to cut off all of the link brackets on the axle and move them 5/32" (barely more than 1/8") from passenger to driver. I haven't talked myself into doing that yet because 1/8" seems pretty minor but I don't want to cut corners and end up with an even bigger piece of jeep than I started with. Thoughts on this?

It has become clear that the 1/4" plate I put on the outsides of the frame also needs to be modified to put the coil buckets back against the frame since real estate between the coil and tire is tough to come by.

Additionally, I have realized that I will not be able to run these wheels (H2s) with any tires wider than 12.5" without adding wheel spacers or installing different hubs. I have hubs that would work but moving the WMS also requires significant modifications the brake setup (either a new bracket or spacers or new rotor with a taller hat, if such a thing exists). I could also buy new wheels which is the most costly but best option in my opinion.

I also measured that i will have ~5" of available uptravel with these springs before the links on top of the axle make contact with the stock cross member. It appears that the crossmember will be the limiting factor up until about a 39" tire.
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Unread 11-10-2011, 06:46 PM   #20
jose_p_adams
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Picked up some new tires. They fill out the wheel well better:

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Unread 11-10-2011, 08:03 PM   #21
Hendrix
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Love it.... You are doing great. I love the corners. My favorite cut by far...


Love the Poly frame brakets. I wish I had just gone that route.

You can adjust the axle center with the links if that is where you are losing the 1/8th inch.
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Unread 11-11-2011, 02:36 PM   #22
stinkbait87
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what size iroks are those?
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Unread 11-11-2011, 03:25 PM   #23
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If it was over 1/8" and you hadn't burned things home, I'd say redo it and get it even. But you'll be able to square things off with the arms. Use the skid plate nutsert holes as a good reference.
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Unread 11-11-2011, 05:37 PM   #24
jose_p_adams
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Thanks guys. They are 39.5 x 13.5 R17 Iroks. I picked them up locally for less than half retail price. They are brand new so I think I did OK.

I hadn't fully welded any of the axle brackets so I ended up pulling the axle out from under the jeep and properly centering all of the brackets. I hadn't done the uppers properly last time but everything is centered within 1/16" now so I think it is good.

I also realized that the frame side spring brackets I bought move the center of the springs to approximately even with the outside edge of the frame rails (42.625" centers). The stock location of the springs is 39" centers. The result is that I am losing over 1.75" of spring-tire clearance with the brackets the way they are. Obviously, this isn't going to work, especially with those Iroks. So I'm back to the drawing board with the frame side spring brackets. I think I'm going to open up the frame notch a little more (make it a little wider and more obtuse) and use the circular portion of the stock upper spring buckets. I may center the springs at a width of 38"-38.5" so give a little more room.

Unfortunately the first order of business is getting my starter to work in my pickup truck. It is currently defying logic.
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Unread 11-13-2011, 04:44 PM   #25
jose_p_adams
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I threw both of the 39's on to check for clearances and look for other potential issues. I have some rubbing issues at the back of the wheel well which I'm not sure how I'm going to address. I think the solution will involve either a BFH or shortening the wheelbase to compensate. Right now I'm at about 99.5 with the stock front suspension but I plan to stretch the front out a little when I do it. I also have some concerns about the narrow width and of the axle and the tires getting into the frame when the rear suspension is articulate. Here are the pics which were taken about 1" from full bump.





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Unread 11-21-2011, 11:13 AM   #26
jose_p_adams
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I haven't made any real progress since I go the new tires but I wanted to resurrect this to discuss transfer case options. I currently have an NP231 with a JB Conversions super short slip yoke eliminator. I don't have any issues with my current transfer case other than I might like a lower gear ratio. But my jeep is going to be completely different when it rolls out of the garage hopefully sometime before 2027. My current plan is to install detroit lockers front and rear and it got me thinking that maybe it would be beneficial to be able to independently engage/disengage the front and rear drivelines. I've never driven a vehicle with a detroit locker but I've read that they can be difficult to deal with on slippery roads in the winter. I have also read that they can cause an increase in the vehicles minimum turning radius. It seems to me that being able to disengage the rear drive line would help with both of those issues. I've also seen the term "front digs" thrown around a lot but I honestly dont fully understand what a front dig does and why being able to do one is beneficial. I've read that doing front digs is hard on parts, specifically, front axle parts.

So what it comes down to is that I have a few options.

1. Leave the NP231 alone and be happy with it and it's troublefree\hasslefree-ness. Obviously this option won't allow me to disengage the rear driveline but I can't do that now, so I really won't know what I'm missing. I could also get a case from a Rubicon which would get me the 4:1 ratio that I think I want.

2. Get a dana 300 (I believe I have access to one for free) and flip it. I've checked out the down east offroad kit and it looks well done and is $600 shipped. Any option using an old dana 300 would involve rebuilding it and the associated costs. I've read about some home-brew flip options but I'm not sold on my ability to execute that and not end up with a leaky POS.

3. Same dana 300 but with the Stak Replace a Case for $725+shipping. Obviously there is a rebuild necesary here too.

Both dana 300 options would get me a 2.62:1 low range which is comparable to what I run now and I would have the option to the 4:1 gears for an additional fee. Once you add all the bells and whistles onto the 300 you start to get close in cost to Option #4.

4. Some aftermarket transfer case (ie Atlas) that is very spendy should be troublefree/hasslefree once it is installed. It will also look really cool when I take pictures of it sitting on the shop floor before it is installed.

Any thoughts are appreciated.
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Unread 11-21-2011, 11:52 AM   #27
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If the 300 was free or cheap then option 3 would be good with a 4:1 option. I like the Atlas option but $$$$ or there was a used atlas in the classifieds last week. I am leaning more towards a flipped 300 for my trail rig.

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Unread 11-21-2011, 12:14 PM   #28
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Everyone should start their build threads like this, the build for 31's, then build for 33's and then build for 35's gets expensive and old. Nice to see more guys on JF diving into some fab work, Pirate can't have all the good threads. Look's good man, keep it coming!
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Unread 11-21-2011, 01:31 PM   #29
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Quote:
Originally Posted by doogie View Post
Everyone should start their build threads like this, the build for 31's, then build for 33's and then build for 35's gets expensive and old. Nice to see more guys on JF diving into some fab work, Pirate can't have all the good threads. Look's good man, keep it coming!
x2

These threads make me and wish that my Jeep wasn't my DD...and that I had half of the mechanical ability of some...and maybe could weld...

Awesome build.
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Unread 11-21-2011, 05:51 PM   #30
jose_p_adams
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Hendrix
If the 300 was free or cheap then option 3 would be good with a 4:1 option. I like the Atlas option but $$$$ or there was a used atlas in the classifieds last week. I am leaning more towards a flipped 300 for my trail rig.

Sent from planet X.
My uncle has 2 cj-7s that have enough good parts between them to make 1 good one. I don't know what the years are but I think one is a mid 70s model and one is 80s. I need to talk to him about it in more detail to figure out his plans and whether or not he has a case that he can part with which will also work for me. I believe I need an 81 and up case. I just need to figure out what I'm going to do and set the plan in motion before I talk myself into an atlas.
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