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Trick Tabs - NalinMFG.comCCOR is your 1 stop source for everything Jeep!TJ 5.25" Speaker Adapters - NalinMFG

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Unread 02-26-2013, 01:24 AM   #16
LeeMasterGT
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Pulled the panels covering the dash speakers. For those interested in the Nalin adaptors I am really pleased with the way these are holding up. A little surface rust because I never painted them when I put them in almost a year ago. A quick wipedown to remove most of the dirt that got in there and I was happy with them again.


All wired up with 16 gauge speaker wire purchased from RadioShack.


Hardest part was removing the dash to get to the back of the head unit. Pulled the top vent cover first.


My buddy removed the front fascia while I worked on the dash speakers so I am honestly not sure exactly what goes into it. It might require the removal of one screw. Either way he had it off in about ten minutes after a google search from his phone.


Plug the RCAs into the back of the unit. Make sure that you pay attention to which wire goes where otherwise you could have issues running the system.


Ran the new wires under the door sills and under the carpet, out through the seatbelt holes. I am definitely not suggesting this as a final product and will change mine up to be a cleaner bunch of wires in the near future but it worked for the initial install.


All wired up and ready to set the gains!


If you weren't worried about where the wires were running under the carpet you could just zip-tie these wires in bunches of 2 or 3 and it would really help the look of everything. I will be doing this along with re-running 1 or 2 of the wires completely to be neater.

Also, all I did for the remote and ground wires was parallel them from the 4 channel amp over to the mono. It worked great and cut down on the wires running every which way.

To set the gains I used the cheater method. No tools, no reading the power output. Simply set ALL the settings and gains on the head unit and the amps back to zero and then turn the volume of the head up to 3/4 max (in my case 27 out of 35). Then I sat in the front seat while my buddy sat in the back and tuned everything so that it sounded just right. I didn't mess with any settings on the head unit. I feel this complicates the signal coming from head and could reduce sound quality. Because I found amps that could adequately power my components, I didn't have to mess with any settings on the head. I just made small adjustments to the gains until I was pleased with the sound. No distortion of sound is the key. Distortion= Damage to components. I am going to dial it in even more but at the time it was 3 AM and we were ready to be done!

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Unread 02-27-2013, 05:45 PM   #17
LeeMasterGT
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Ok I need some help from everybody! I'm running Fox 2.0 coilover remote res in the front. I'm using Synergy weld on shock towers from Poly performance. I would like to see around 6-7 inches of downtravel with 3-4 of uptravel. A call to Poly Performance said I would be happiest with 250/350 rate springs at a 10 inch and 12 inch length, respectively. I trust that they know what they're doing so I am going to run with that until I see reason to change. My question is... Which company do I get the springs from??

I can get QA1 springs from Summit Racing for $37.95. Link here: http://www.summitracing.com/parts/hal-10-250/overview/

Eibach springs from Summit Racing for $59.99. Link here: http://www.summitracing.com/parts/ei...0250/overview/

Or PAC Racing springs for $62.00 from Poly. Link here: http://www.polyperformance.com/shop/...g-p-30517.html

Will the price difference really translate into sub-par springs? Thanks for the help!
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Unread 02-28-2013, 11:54 AM   #18
LeeMasterGT
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Decided to go with the QA1 springs after talking to a good friend. Went with 10 inch, 250 spring rate upper springs and 12 inch 350 rate main springs on Poly's recommendation. My hope is to have a firm, yet comfortable on-road ride and plenty of flex off-road. These should do nicely.

And summit racing will have them to me tomorrow even though I ordered them last night!
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Unread 02-28-2013, 11:19 PM   #19
LeeMasterGT
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Received the Clayton Long Arms! They look fantastic. Great packaging, great welds, BEEFY arms and truss. Now for the pictures.









Welds




The arms weigh an easy 20 lbs a piece. I know everybody raves about this kit, which is exactly why I purchased it, but I can't say enough good things about how everything feels and the quality of it all. If anybody was on the fence about getting this, do not hesitate to pull the trigger!
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Unread 03-01-2013, 12:13 PM   #20
Tblack
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Have you seen the Teraflex Monster Flex short arms? Lol. They are short arms and the shipping weight is 25 pounds a peice. Nothing like walking to the car holding 4 little boxes grunting the whole way. But I am just a big wussy!
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Unread 03-01-2013, 01:13 PM   #21
LeeMasterGT
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Tblack View Post
Have you seen the Teraflex Monster Flex short arms? Lol. They are short arms and the shipping weight is 25 pounds a peice. Nothing like walking to the car holding 4 little boxes grunting the whole way. But I am just a big wussy!
Ha! I hear ya on the wussy part. UPS said the boxes were 50 lbs for the control arms. I can't wait until next week when I can get started on everything! I planned on Thursday, Friday nights and all day Saturday. So I'll probably be done the next Tuesday .
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Unread 03-02-2013, 12:58 AM   #22
LeeMasterGT
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Received the Coil over springs from QA1 today! Got them put on the shocks just for fun. I can't say enough good things about Summit Racing and their customer service. Super quick shipping on a product that was ordered late in the day and received 48 hrs later.

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Unread 03-05-2013, 12:14 AM   #23
LeeMasterGT
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UPDATE: Got the last piece of the puzzle today!! My front shock mounts came in from Poly Performance! Look like really good products, other than the new lower mounts both came with a fair amount of surface rust... It's not a real issue, just means that I get to spend extra time cleaning them up, which is annoying. Other than that, couldn't be happier with them. No pix because I'm busy this week with midterms for all of my college classes. Build will commence after the last class ends on Thursday! This means...
UCF Skid system
Clayton Longarms with truss and bridge
New coil overs front, new shocks and coils rear

Should be a super busy weekend if I want to get it all finished by Saturday. I can't wait!
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Unread 03-26-2013, 12:30 AM   #24
LeeMasterGT
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Whew! Been a crazy few weeks! Spring Break, vacation, and 5 solid days working 8 ish hrs/day on the Jeep. Honestly I let this thread die a little because after replacing an entire suspension in one extended weekend I was sick of even thinking about Jeeps. Now that everything is back together again it is a completely different vehicle. I learned a lot along the way, and hopefully my experiences will be able to help other out as they set up their rigs.

Started day one after I finished my last college class. I was lucky enough to have a family friend who has a nice shop for his locomotive diesel repair business. All the tools and space I could hope for on my project, and in a heated environment to keep me less cranky.
Obviously started by ripping all of the old suspension and brackets off.

Front axle out


Rear axle out


Floating Ruby


This was definitely a spooky sight for me. But we ended that first day beginning the grinding on the axles and cleaning up the rust that had be festering from that ridiculous RC frame stiffener.

No me gusta rust...


No looking back now!



It almost kills me that I ground up an axle that had seen less than a month's worth of use. LOL
Day one ended preparing for welding on of brackets, bridge and truss.
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Unread 03-26-2013, 12:41 AM   #25
LeeMasterGT
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Day two and we were ready to begin the Clayton install! I gotta hand it to these guys... Their kit is fantastic. Very stout, excellent quality and look, and overall a cinch to install compared to some other items that I'll get to later on. I would recommend them hands down to anybody thinking about investing in their equipment. Only complaint... NON-double adjustable arms. Hopefully one day they'll remedy this as I feel that would really be the icing on the cake that is their system.

First thing first... Prepare the frame and burn in the frame side control arm brackets.
One more picture to illustrate the extent of the rust due to the RC design.

I'm still a little bitter about that RC stuff, as I felt it was a very poor kit... But I digress!

Frame partially cleaned up for welding


Burning in the brackets. As you can see the fronts had been done at this point. Didn't snag any pix of those.


A few of the finished products



Painted up


I used Rustoleum Flat Black for the paint and in hindsight this was a definite mistake. I figured I would like it more because it wouldn't stand out so much. In reality it just looks funny. Were I to do it again I would definitely do the semi gloss. But you live and learn I suppose! It's not bad enough to change at this point and nobody but me will really notice I'm sure.
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Unread 03-26-2013, 12:52 AM   #26
LeeMasterGT
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Day three and we were really cruising! We were able to basically begin to install the control arms and the front bridge/rear truss. Hardest part was the brake line for the rear axle. We couldn't get it to come loose from the distribution block so we had to grind around it. Definitely didn't want to nick it as brakes are the most important system on any vehicle. A little creative grinding on the truss and we were in business. The truss was the most complicated piece of the Clayton system. It required the most testing and fitting to make it work. Everything was so clearly spelled out in the instructions for everything else that it really was nothing more than reading, making measurements, and burning in!

Front axle mock up

Notice the ground up spring perches. Because coilovers were going in the front we decided to place the lower shock mounts right where the old perches were. Just cut out the center section and place the mounts inside. Very clean once it was all painted up. Didn't snap any pictures of that though for some reason.

Rear axle truss welded and paint drying.


That pretty much ended day three, though we were able to mock up the front control arms a bit. We really needed to get the new shock towers in place and in order to do that we had to cut off the old mounts on the frame. That happened at around 1 am Saturday night.

Hardware in need of replacing


The start, just trying to remove enough material to be able to work


All chopped up, and I'll tell ya that was a bear! Ready to be cleaned up the next day.
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Unread 03-26-2013, 03:08 AM   #27
midnight_f150
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Lookng good!!
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Unread 03-26-2013, 08:41 AM   #28
LeeMasterGT
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Thanks! It definitely was an experience. Gotta find time today to post up the rest of the build.
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Unread 03-26-2013, 08:27 PM   #29
LeeMasterGT
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Day 4 began with my buddy and me running in all different directions. We had a bunch of grinding to do to make the new shock mounts work, and my friend who was there for the welding wanted that done very first so he could get to his girlfriend. We needed to get the new tranny and engine skids installed before we could set the pinion angle, and we had momentarily jumped the gun and just about threw the rear axle in thinking we were all set.

Ground on the frame to get it ready for shock towers and paint


Welded up

Notice the "massaging" we had to do to the fender to make it work. Definitely wasn't my favorite idea to bang on the sheet metal, but I had to keep reminding myself that these inner fenders will be replaced one day and that the world will not explode immediately...

Paint drying


Shocks mounted for the first time.

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Unread 03-27-2013, 12:52 AM   #30
Tblack
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I'm just going to take a shot in the dark and say you've welded a couple of times before this.
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