Project REDLYNER: Rock Crawler Driven Daily... - Page 275 - JeepForum.com
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post #4111 of 6906 Old 08-06-2013, 08:20 PM
MO2500
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Feeling really jealous
x2


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post #4112 of 6906 Old 08-06-2013, 10:34 PM
ashland82391
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East Coast Gear Supply sneak preview.......

65.5":
Video Link: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=eqNhU1UlQ-o

Lot's of updates to follow.
Bout time you posted a picture! That thing is sick!!!!
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post #4113 of 6906 Old 08-06-2013, 11:09 PM
aw12345
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Nice stuff Jay

My Tinkering and wheeling thread http://tinyurl.com/pbwdm5u
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post #4114 of 6906 Old 08-07-2013, 06:05 AM Thread Starter
REDLYNER
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Hopefully this and some lock tight on my transfer case skid bolts will equal a solid machine. What would theoretically be the weak point now? Driveshaft u-joint? 231?

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post #4115 of 6906 Old 08-07-2013, 07:43 AM
dayriesw
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231 aluminum case is my guess

06 WK 5.7 Hemi Overland - Daily
87 MJ Chief 57k original miles... getting built in the backyard. 37s, waggy axles, D300, 6 speed, etc.

Gone - 05 LJ on 37s, 79 FSJ Chief on 38s, 85 CJ-7 on 31s
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post #4116 of 6906 Old 08-07-2013, 08:02 AM
MO2500
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So far from my experience the 1310 drivelines will break before the t-case. That doesn't mean the case can't or won't be a weak point as well. I would carry spare driveshafts if possible though.

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post #4117 of 6906 Old 08-07-2013, 09:11 AM
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It's probably best that you stay with 1310's......great angular capability and they may act as a fuse for your 231. Although I wouldn't be overly concerned with either one.

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post #4118 of 6906 Old 08-07-2013, 09:22 AM Thread Starter
REDLYNER
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Just got off the phone with ECGS and the 35 spline 4340 custom shafts are being cut down right now. Looking like I'll make the 7 hour round trip on Monday for pick.... then drop off on the way home to get the brackets and tabs welded up.

ARB and 4.88's going in:

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post #4119 of 6906 Old 08-07-2013, 09:47 AM
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I've heard of some big-a** tires and axles being run with 1310's...

If it's worth doing, then it's worth overdoing.

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post #4120 of 6906 Old 08-07-2013, 09:48 AM
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Just read this entire build and i must say its an amazing build. I do wish that the pictures were still there though, but I suppose thats the costs of technology.

My build: http://www.jeepforum.com/forum/f22/wills-exceedingly-slow-tj-build-3023897/#post28422641
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post #4121 of 6906 Old 08-07-2013, 10:01 AM
MO2500
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I broke the ears off my 1310 driveshaft, didn't even break the u-joint cross. I did that with a 4 cyl and 5.38 gearing and I mention the gearing because the higher numerically gearing is easier on the driveline parts. May have just been a fluke but I was beating on it about as hard as we would in race conditions trying to make it through trails in JV.

I know Blaine likes to stay with 1310 stuff but if you look at the majority of Ultra4 racers they are running at least 1350 series parts and some 1410 now and driveshafts still fail often. It's good to have spares whatever you run.

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post #4122 of 6906 Old 08-07-2013, 10:05 AM Thread Starter
REDLYNER
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Just read this entire build and i must say its an amazing build. I do wish that the pictures were still there though, but I suppose thats the costs of technology.
Dude... I need to go back and do that at some point. I wonder how far I strayed from different directions and mindsets with this rig.

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post #4123 of 6906 Old 08-07-2013, 10:08 AM Thread Starter
REDLYNER
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It's good to have spares whatever you run.
Meh, they just weight the rig down . Speaking of which, have you put yours on a scale yet?

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post #4124 of 6906 Old 08-07-2013, 11:02 AM
MO2500
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Quote:
Originally Posted by REDLYNER

Meh, they just weight the rig down . Speaking of which, have you put yours on a scale yet?
I have not yet. I'm curious as well but I need to finish up some tube work and a few other things before its close to race weight.

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post #4125 of 6906 Old 08-07-2013, 07:50 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MO2500 View Post
I broke the ears off my 1310 driveshaft, didn't even break the u-joint cross. I did that with a 4 cyl and 5.38 gearing and I mention the gearing because the higher numerically gearing is easier on the driveline parts. May have just been a fluke but I was beating on it about as hard as we would in race conditions trying to make it through trails in JV.

I know Blaine likes to stay with 1310 stuff but if you look at the majority of Ultra4 racers they are running at least 1350 series parts and some 1410 now and driveshafts still fail often. It's good to have spares whatever you run.
To me the fuse theory is flawed use parts that most likely will not break, much better prerogative. My Put put beater so far has only bend a thickwall driveshaft still drove and wheeled with it for a year and one 9/16" control arm bolt sheared. 1350 U joints for the win in my book.
No sense in trying to race in 2 wheel drive after you explode a yoke.
Mikey blew one, my bud Fred exploded a 1310 CV shaft in Moab also bumping a ledge. He went 1350 since and no more problem, you can get plenty travel out of those shafts without binding with 14" coilovers so that is not the issue. I don't even use a cv shaft in the front

My Tinkering and wheeling thread http://tinyurl.com/pbwdm5u
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aluminum , coilovers , custom , ecors , fuel cell , immaculate wheeling queen , koh , level 5 hair gel , offroad racing , racing , sinister fab , smittybuilt emc , sniper fab , tnt , toothbrush detailing , ultra4

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