[MemorEsto]

The 44 can fit 5.38, but the pinion will be weaker. If you had a JK Rubi axle, I'd say you'd be ok. But you better gear the 60 for now

[mcannon111]

5.38's in a 44 is like 4.88's in a 30. it can be done and works great. but you loose some strength..

[Hendrix]

Originally Posted by REDLYNER

For the sake of conversation, would I be better off re-gearing my front TJ Rubi 44 to 5.38s to match a Dana 60 rear, or re-gear a new Dana 60 rear from 5.38s to 4.88s to match my front 44?


Can the TJ rubi 44 hold 5.38s?

RJ 60 ? stock width?

[MO2500]

Just order Fab 9's already, Jay

[REDLYNER]

Originally Posted by MO2500

Just order Fab 9's already, Jay

No kidding. I just dropped $3k in some medical stuff for the young one rolling around at my place, so I have to bargain hunt where I can. I found a D60 with upgraded shafts, 4 link truss, ARB and 5.38's for a really good deal, so I'm debating on what to do.


That would mean my rear axle would be for sale...

[REDLYNER]

Couple of weekend projects that should be finished up tomorrow or Tuesday-

Front Riddler Diff cover from James (Bennett13) and more progress on my firewall.

Sanding down the orange left over-


Smooth and primed up, ready for paint-


Marking the mounting brackets for the firewall-


Diff cover painted, brackets cut and painted, firewall mounting holes drilled-






The race prep list still to go:

• Finish rear coilover mount
• Exchange coilover springs for softer ones
• Tune coilovers
• Rubber buffer for PSC half doors
• Finish firewall and install
• Rear Savvy Tail gate Skin
• Replace coolant reservoir tank (melted a hole in my current one)
• Get numbers and sponsor stickers cut
• Install crotch strap of 5 point harnesses

It's going to be moderately busy the next few weeks. The race (pre-running) is 25 days away......

[REDLYNER]

Rear coilover update-


There is a reason why most TJ's aren't running rear coilovers.... It's not a simple install. I have had a ton of help from several of the local shops around Charlotte- this project was supported by RIDES of Conover. Brandon helped me with my front coilover setup and long arm mounts, so I went back for the rear coilover install too.

I have several install shots on my cellphone, so we'll see how those turn out. But in the mean time, here are few "mid-project" shots. There are still several things to do before this is complete (exchange upper springs, mount reservoirs, re-tighten all mounting bolts, re-do brake line- hits at full stuff).

This essentially turned into a mini back half project. The rear cross member had to be removed (then re-attached to new frame section) and the back 12 to 18" of the frame was removed. RIDES, with the help of MUDPRO, built a new frame section that curves into the tub, which gave the coilovers the needed room to pull into at full droop. These plates are reinforced on the sides, bottom, and rear. Plus the tube mount for the coilovers is gusseted.

Note- upper Eibach spring is just a place holder until my new springs come in.


Reservoirs will be mounted in the cab on my roll bar:


Axle mounts:




Added some support gussets to the front in anticipation of a little harder driving (added to both sides of the hoop):



As it sits now I have 5" of up travel front and rear with close to 7" of down in the front and 9" in the rear. I can lower it to almost stock height (for rally races), and raise to where ever I want. For the March ECORS race, I'm going to raise it slightly to be around 6" up and down in the front and 6" up with 8" down in the rear. We'll see how it goes.

Snapped this shot this morning:

[MO2500]

Looks great, Jay You've got me partially worried about my own now. Part of the reason I'm putting mine off aside from finding time to work on it is It's almost looking like I might have to re-back-half my back-half haha. I'm not sure how it's going to work out.

Anyway, easy fix for your brakes making contact, just flip the calipers and backing plates left to right, right to left, and move the caliper to the front side of the axle. That's what I'm going to try.

[REDLYNER]

Originally Posted by MO2500

Looks great, Jay You've got me partially worried about my own now. Part of the reason I'm putting mine off aside from finding time to work on it is It's almost looking like I might have to re-back-half my back-half haha. I'm not sure how it's going to work out.

Anyway, easy fix for your brakes making contact, just flip the calipers and backing plates left to right, right to left, and move the caliper to the front side of the axle. That's what I'm going to try.

Maybe you will get lucky- on initial install we hit c/o to frame on droop and c/o to tire on stuff. Brandon re-did the entire section and we added spacers that seem to solve both problems.


The brake line hitting is a connecter, just needs to be taken off and installed at a slightly different angle.

[MO2500]

Originally Posted by REDLYNER

Maybe you will get lucky- on initial install we hit c/o to frame on droop and c/o to tire on stuff. Brandon re-did the entire section and we added spacers that seem to solve both problems.

Maybe, the two things I have going for me is I'm only using 12"s in the rear so there should be less side to side movement when flexed and my 35s are less likely to hit because they are smaller than your 37s. That's what I'm hoping anyway. If I wasn't so overwhelmed with work every week I'd have it figured out already but I just am not finding the time I need to get some serious work done between classes and my internship.

[MO2500]

Btw, how do you go about deciding where to adjust the dual rate stop to after you get ride-height set? I was wondering about that for when I get mine setup.

[REDLYNER]

Originally Posted by MO2500

Maybe, the two things I have going for me is I'm only using 12"s in the rear so there should be less side to side movement when flexed and my 35s are less likely to hit because they are smaller than your 37s. That's what I'm hoping anyway. If I wasn't so overwhelmed with work every week I'd have it figured out already but I just am not finding the time I need to get some serious work done between classes and my internship.

The guys at the shop thought that even a narrower 37" (the Pitbulls are extremely wide) would have solved my tire rubbing at full stuff issue. Right now, the wider wheel spacers are working. But I don't like having to use them. So it's a bandaide until I get some wider axles.

[MO2500]

Originally Posted by REDLYNER

The guys at the shop thought that even a narrower 37" (the Pitbulls are extremely wide) would have solved my tire rubbing at full stuff issue. Right now, the wider wheel spacers are working. But I don't like having to use them. So it's a bandaide until I get some wider axles.

Gotcha, what back spacing are your current racelines? My 15" are only offered in 3.25" so I have a little extra width already.

[aw12345]

Originally Posted by MO2500

Btw, how do you go about deciding where to adjust the dual rate stop to after you get ride-height set? I was wondering about that for when I get mine setup.

Me and my bud where talking about that with one of the King shock techs at KOH and his opinion was to not bother with them. If you crank them down make sure it doesn't bottom the bottom spring out.

[MO2500]

Originally Posted by aw12345

Me and my bud where talking about that with one of the King shock techs at KOH and his opinion was to not bother with them. If you crank them down make sure it doesn't bottom the bottom spring out.

So essentially it's sort of adjusted by feel while protecting the upper and lower spring from being compressed to coil bind. Cranked up and the primary spring doesn't act before the tender spring hits full coil bind and too low and you overcompress the main spring. Got it.