Project Pissed Wife Phase II 5.3L Vortec and 4L60e install! - Page 8 - JeepForum.com

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post #106 of 1067 Old 08-27-2012, 04:11 PM
snail81
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hey will this work?http://www.ebay.com/itm/GAUGE-5-PIEC...87ce17&vxp=mtr

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post #107 of 1067 Old 08-27-2012, 06:10 PM
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post #108 of 1067 Old 08-27-2012, 06:49 PM Thread Starter
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I have purchase both of these. The set adapter is too brittle. The Auto Meter adapter opening isnt large enough and doesn't allow the sender to be down in the water jacket.
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post #109 of 1067 Old 08-28-2012, 05:21 AM Thread Starter
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I ordered the AA trans mount yesterday. After talking with them and Novak I think it is my best option. My only concern is that I will now have the trans mount, trans shifter and tcase shifter all mounting off of the tcase mounting studs.

Also I decide to order the stock Silverado trans cooler lines. They are cheap at $17 ea. and I don't have to come up with any adapters.

Edit: After looking at the trans shifter again, it uses the trans to adapter mounting bolts so it appears everything will work just fine.
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post #110 of 1067 Old 08-28-2012, 02:10 PM Thread Starter
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I'm trying to pull exhaust parts together. I know that I will need to custom make the exhaust from the manifold @ 2.5" under the oil pan to a collector and then to 3" to the muffler. But I didn't really want to make the over the axle part.

So I found a mendral bent 3" tailpipe shipped to me for $100 from AFEpower.com

here:
http://afepower.com/index.php

Part number 05-44187
As seen here:
http://afepower.com/catalog/49-46204/is.pdf

They don't list this as a part you can buy on the website but by phone they made it happen. 3 week lead time, which is fine. This will make my life easier since I only really need to make the exhaust from the manifolds to the collector and then it's a straight shot out the back.
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post #111 of 1067 Old 08-28-2012, 08:20 PM Thread Starter
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Dear Lokar,

Your instructions suck.

That is all.
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post #112 of 1067 Old 08-28-2012, 11:01 PM Thread Starter
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Dear Novak,

First you didn't send all the parts for my tcase shifter. Then to make it up to me you sent my the wrong parts. You owe me 2 hours of my life back.

Thanks.
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post #113 of 1067 Old 08-29-2012, 04:04 AM
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HAhahaha!!!
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post #114 of 1067 Old 08-29-2012, 07:59 AM
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Dear Lokar,

Your instructions suck.

That is all.
Hey which one did you buy? I'm looking to get one soon. weighing my options thanks
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post #115 of 1067 Old 08-29-2012, 08:23 AM Thread Starter
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Hey which one did you buy? I'm looking to get one soon. weighing my options thanks
I went with the 16" version for the 4L60E. It is the all black version, i believe it is called the midnight edition?

Fits great after its on there. Ill throw up some pics later.
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post #116 of 1067 Old 08-29-2012, 04:53 PM Thread Starter
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Here are some pics of the Lokar midnight series 16" shifter.

From the driver seat:


angle from passanger side:


After some cutting and cussing I got the Novak tcase shifter installed. Still lack the shifter stick. I need to get the trans mount and skid plate in place to make sure everything lines up well. With the AA trans to tcase adapter you will need to slightly modify the Novak shifter bracket.




No big deal.

My trans mount should be here on the 4th. after that I can finalize the trans shifter and tcase shifter. Wiring should be close behind. I still need to order my rad but I need to raise some funds first.
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post #117 of 1067 Old 08-29-2012, 09:37 PM Thread Starter
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i started tearing the puter and its wiring out, probably should have waited but its done. Isaved the sensors that I need along with the wiring for the speedo, reverse lights, fuel pump and a few other things.

Wiring this thing is my biggest fear. I'm not sure if I should keep the Alternator wiring? I want to say that I think the GM wiring harness and puter will control that now? Anyone?
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post #118 of 1067 Old 08-30-2012, 07:11 AM
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i started tearing the puter and its wiring out, probably should have waited but its done. Isaved the sensors that I need along with the wiring for the speedo, reverse lights, fuel pump and a few other things.

Wiring this thing is my biggest fear. I'm not sure if I should keep the Alternator wiring? I want to say that I think the GM wiring harness and puter will control that now? Anyone?
The GM harness will have a single wire going to the alternator via a plug. You will need a cable from the post on the back of the alternator to the battery. At least 4 gauge & fusible link is a plus. My factory TJ cable was not long enough to reach the new alternator location, so I bought a mustang battery-to-solenoid cable 40" to reach the starter.

Wiring is not a big deal. From the jeep you trim quite a bit. I kept the main harness from the fuel pump, VSS, Transfer Case Position Sensor, Oil Pressure Sensor, Water Temp Sensor. Trim the rest. Just start at the plug and track the wires back through the harness to the large plugs.

Mine is running, so if you need any specifics on the wiring let me know.
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post #119 of 1067 Old 08-30-2012, 07:27 AM Thread Starter
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The GM harness will have a single wire going to the alternator via a plug. You will need a cable from the post on the back of the alternator to the battery. At least 4 gauge & fusible link is a plus. My factory TJ cable was not long enough to reach the new alternator location, so I bought a mustang battery-to-solenoid cable 40" to reach the starter.

Wiring is not a big deal. From the jeep you trim quite a bit. I kept the main harness from the fuel pump, VSS, Transfer Case Position Sensor, Oil Pressure Sensor, Water Temp Sensor. Trim the rest. Just start at the plug and track the wires back through the harness to the large plugs.

Mine is running, so if you need any specifics on the wiring let me know.
That is exactly what I did, as far as trimming.

So I can cut out all the alt crap, what about starting? Is the, what i call the kicker, GM or the jeep? I was thinking it would be the jeep.
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post #120 of 1067 Old 08-30-2012, 07:40 AM
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That is exactly what I did, as far as trimming.

So I can cut out all the alt crap, what about starting? Is the, what i call the kicker, GM or the jeep? I was thinking it would be the jeep.
The jeep will control the starter. I kept that wire but could not get it to work, because on my year model the wire runs through some fuses and the neutral safety switch etc. The circuit was broke some where, so I ran a new wire off the switch directly to the starter. This was faster than tracking down the issue with the stock wiring. YJ may be a simpler system.
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