Project Pissed Wife Phase II 5.3L Vortec and 4L60e install! - Page 8 - JeepForum.com
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Introducing MONSTALINER™ UV Permanent DIY Roll On Bed Line~Artec JK 1 TON SWAP~Advance Adapters SYE Kits

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Unread 08-27-2012, 04:11 PM   #106
snail81
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1988 YJ Wrangler 
 
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hey will this work?http://www.ebay.com/itm/GAUGE-5-PIEC...87ce17&vxp=mtr

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Unread 08-27-2012, 06:10 PM   #107
Cajun90YJ
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How about this one http://www.speedwaymotors.com/LS1-Wa...pter,8195.html
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Unread 08-27-2012, 06:49 PM   #108
Why J?
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Quote:
Originally Posted by snail81 View Post
Quote:
Originally Posted by Cajun90YJ View Post
I have purchase both of these. The set adapter is too brittle. The Auto Meter adapter opening isnt large enough and doesn't allow the sender to be down in the water jacket.
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New Project "Pissed Wife"

http://www.jeepforum.com/forum/f22/project-pissed-wife-747535/
Phase II 5.3L/4L60e then NV3550
http://www.jeepforum.com/forum/f22/p...stall-1400506/
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Unread 08-28-2012, 05:21 AM   #109
Why J?
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I ordered the AA trans mount yesterday. After talking with them and Novak I think it is my best option. My only concern is that I will now have the trans mount, trans shifter and tcase shifter all mounting off of the tcase mounting studs.

Also I decide to order the stock Silverado trans cooler lines. They are cheap at $17 ea. and I don't have to come up with any adapters.

Edit: After looking at the trans shifter again, it uses the trans to adapter mounting bolts so it appears everything will work just fine.
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New Project "Pissed Wife"

http://www.jeepforum.com/forum/showthread.php?t=747535
Phase II 5.3L/4L60e then NV3550
http://www.jeepforum.com/forum/f22/p...stall-1400506/
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Unread 08-28-2012, 02:10 PM   #110
Why J?
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I'm trying to pull exhaust parts together. I know that I will need to custom make the exhaust from the manifold @ 2.5" under the oil pan to a collector and then to 3" to the muffler. But I didn't really want to make the over the axle part.

So I found a mendral bent 3" tailpipe shipped to me for $100 from AFEpower.com

here:
http://afepower.com/index.php

Part number 05-44187
As seen here:
http://afepower.com/catalog/49-46204/is.pdf

They don't list this as a part you can buy on the website but by phone they made it happen. 3 week lead time, which is fine. This will make my life easier since I only really need to make the exhaust from the manifolds to the collector and then it's a straight shot out the back.
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New Project "Pissed Wife"

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Phase II 5.3L/4L60e then NV3550
http://www.jeepforum.com/forum/f22/p...stall-1400506/
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Unread 08-28-2012, 08:20 PM   #111
Why J?
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Dear Lokar,

Your instructions suck.

That is all.
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New Project "Pissed Wife"

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Phase II 5.3L/4L60e then NV3550
http://www.jeepforum.com/forum/f22/p...stall-1400506/
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Unread 08-28-2012, 11:01 PM   #112
Why J?
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Dear Novak,

First you didn't send all the parts for my tcase shifter. Then to make it up to me you sent my the wrong parts. You owe me 2 hours of my life back.

Thanks.
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New Project "Pissed Wife"

http://www.jeepforum.com/forum/showthread.php?t=747535
Phase II 5.3L/4L60e then NV3550
http://www.jeepforum.com/forum/f22/p...stall-1400506/
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Unread 08-29-2012, 04:04 AM   #113
USMCBuckWild
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HAhahaha!!!
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Unread 08-29-2012, 07:59 AM   #114
snail81
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Why J? View Post
Dear Lokar,

Your instructions suck.

That is all.
Hey which one did you buy? I'm looking to get one soon. weighing my options thanks
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Unread 08-29-2012, 08:23 AM   #115
Why J?
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Originally Posted by snail81 View Post
Hey which one did you buy? I'm looking to get one soon. weighing my options thanks
I went with the 16" version for the 4L60E. It is the all black version, i believe it is called the midnight edition?

Fits great after its on there. Ill throw up some pics later.
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New Project "Pissed Wife"

http://www.jeepforum.com/forum/showthread.php?t=747535
Phase II 5.3L/4L60e then NV3550
http://www.jeepforum.com/forum/f22/p...stall-1400506/
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Unread 08-29-2012, 04:53 PM   #116
Why J?
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Here are some pics of the Lokar midnight series 16" shifter.

From the driver seat:


angle from passanger side:


After some cutting and cussing I got the Novak tcase shifter installed. Still lack the shifter stick. I need to get the trans mount and skid plate in place to make sure everything lines up well. With the AA trans to tcase adapter you will need to slightly modify the Novak shifter bracket.




No big deal.

My trans mount should be here on the 4th. after that I can finalize the trans shifter and tcase shifter. Wiring should be close behind. I still need to order my rad but I need to raise some funds first.
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New Project "Pissed Wife"

http://www.jeepforum.com/forum/showthread.php?t=747535
Phase II 5.3L/4L60e then NV3550
http://www.jeepforum.com/forum/f22/p...stall-1400506/
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Unread 08-29-2012, 09:37 PM   #117
Why J?
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i started tearing the puter and its wiring out, probably should have waited but its done. Isaved the sensors that I need along with the wiring for the speedo, reverse lights, fuel pump and a few other things.

Wiring this thing is my biggest fear. I'm not sure if I should keep the Alternator wiring? I want to say that I think the GM wiring harness and puter will control that now? Anyone?
__________________
New Project "Pissed Wife"

http://www.jeepforum.com/forum/showthread.php?t=747535
Phase II 5.3L/4L60e then NV3550
http://www.jeepforum.com/forum/f22/p...stall-1400506/
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Unread 08-30-2012, 07:11 AM   #118
MattGATRTJ
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Why J? View Post
i started tearing the puter and its wiring out, probably should have waited but its done. Isaved the sensors that I need along with the wiring for the speedo, reverse lights, fuel pump and a few other things.

Wiring this thing is my biggest fear. I'm not sure if I should keep the Alternator wiring? I want to say that I think the GM wiring harness and puter will control that now? Anyone?
The GM harness will have a single wire going to the alternator via a plug. You will need a cable from the post on the back of the alternator to the battery. At least 4 gauge & fusible link is a plus. My factory TJ cable was not long enough to reach the new alternator location, so I bought a mustang battery-to-solenoid cable 40" to reach the starter.

Wiring is not a big deal. From the jeep you trim quite a bit. I kept the main harness from the fuel pump, VSS, Transfer Case Position Sensor, Oil Pressure Sensor, Water Temp Sensor. Trim the rest. Just start at the plug and track the wires back through the harness to the large plugs.

Mine is running, so if you need any specifics on the wiring let me know.
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Unread 08-30-2012, 07:27 AM   #119
Why J?
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MattGATRTJ View Post
The GM harness will have a single wire going to the alternator via a plug. You will need a cable from the post on the back of the alternator to the battery. At least 4 gauge & fusible link is a plus. My factory TJ cable was not long enough to reach the new alternator location, so I bought a mustang battery-to-solenoid cable 40" to reach the starter.

Wiring is not a big deal. From the jeep you trim quite a bit. I kept the main harness from the fuel pump, VSS, Transfer Case Position Sensor, Oil Pressure Sensor, Water Temp Sensor. Trim the rest. Just start at the plug and track the wires back through the harness to the large plugs.

Mine is running, so if you need any specifics on the wiring let me know.
That is exactly what I did, as far as trimming.

So I can cut out all the alt crap, what about starting? Is the, what i call the kicker, GM or the jeep? I was thinking it would be the jeep.
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New Project "Pissed Wife"

http://www.jeepforum.com/forum/showthread.php?t=747535
Phase II 5.3L/4L60e then NV3550
http://www.jeepforum.com/forum/f22/p...stall-1400506/
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Unread 08-30-2012, 07:40 AM   #120
MattGATRTJ
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Why J? View Post
That is exactly what I did, as far as trimming.

So I can cut out all the alt crap, what about starting? Is the, what i call the kicker, GM or the jeep? I was thinking it would be the jeep.
The jeep will control the starter. I kept that wire but could not get it to work, because on my year model the wire runs through some fuses and the neutral safety switch etc. The circuit was broke some where, so I ran a new wire off the switch directly to the starter. This was faster than tracking down the issue with the stock wiring. YJ may be a simpler system.
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