I have been driving the Jeep the last week or so and nothing fell off. It has been running great. I got the shifter boot on and wired in the Dakota digital box to give the ECU a VSS signal and it works fine. The boot bolted up in the stock location and I mounted the Dakota box under the dash near the fuse box to keep it dry.
I did notice that my temps are a little lower with the manual. I think that the auto added some heat through the rad along with the extra cooler in front of the rad reduced some flow. So I am happy about that.
Overall the Jeep is a blast to drive and I am very happy with it. I will be going wheeling for the first time in over a year this weekend so the boys are pumped about that. I don't have any plans for more mods till this fall/ winter.
Is your speedo reading the signal from your computer or the Dakota? If so do you have intermittent mph surges at idle?
Yeah my loop is sensor-dakota-ECM-gauge. I get an intermittent surge at idle on the gauge. Otherwise 100% accurate. I have read other people have had this problem with the SGI-5. Just wondering if you saw those issues as well. I'm going to try and use a capacitor on the power wire to clean up the signal or build a little high pass filter.
Honestly. She is running great. Some ******* in a Jk tried racing me the other night. It was like he was standing still.
Offroad is where it really comes alive. My gearing is such that cruising the highway is good but the RPMs are a little higher than I like (65mph = 2500rpms) but this gives me a lot of low end for offroad and smoking people's *** on the street. I am build for 37s and currently running 35s so the RPMs will lower a bit once I get the 37s on there.
Overall. I would say that after getting all the bugs worked out it is the best mod I have done......
like others have said maybe take some emmory cloth around the shaft just to clean it up a bit and if you are not seeing any defects in the seal itself id just put it back together and try it then.
it could be just a case of the seal not expanding yet to create a Good "seal" yet i have seen that happen before
one more thing to note is when you put it back together Be careful that the shaft does not "push" the lip of the seal out and if it looks like its going to just wiggle the housing around a bit till it pops back in
to answer the question though Yes the spring is to be toward the Inside of the case not the outside the spring kind of "hugs" the rubber to the shaft to help it seal
I pulled and tore apart my tcase this weekend becuase it was leaking like a sieve. It was leaking from the front input, case halves and the SYE extension housing. What I found basically means that I shouldn't be let near any t case being rebuilt, or I am a retard. Probably both.
First the input. It was leaking because I did not properly set the front bearing. It was setting about 1/16 an inch off the case making contact with the bearing seal retainer and leaking between the retainer and the case.
Case halves were leaking for 2 reason. 1) I found a small crack in the bottom of the lower rear case. My fault for supporting the drive train with a jack stand on the tcase. 2) the SYE is f'd up. ( more on that below)
SYE housing. I have an AA SYE, the hole in the extension housing for the shift rod was to small for the shift rod bushing that extends out the back of the rear case. It wasn't readily identifiable with RTV on the extension housing. Once I dry fit the parts I found the interference. This has causes 3 things. 1) binding in the tcase, causing the tcase to stay in 4wd. 2) it warped the extension housing. AA fixed this for me by selling me a new extension housing. Which I am on fence about being crappy or not. Leaning towards F AA because this isn't the first part I have had from them that wasn't properly machined. 3) When the ill fitting extension housing was torqued down it pulled the rear of the case out causing a leak at the case halves.
To summarize, I am a retard and AA can kiss my @$$. Cost to me: $143 for new np231 case halves, $100 for master rebuilt kit, $20 new input seal retainer, $20.00 new 4wd switch and $95 for AA SYE extension housing, output bearing lock ring and seal.
And then after I fixed all that I rebuilt the tcase, got all new bearings, seals and bushings. had everything all back together I found that the wide chain kit I bought had the wrong front output shaft. The one I got is for a wide 1" bearing. My case has the normal 1/2" front out put bearing. Sooooo I emailed that idiot and tore the case completely back apart
Sigh......... The leaking transfer case continues.
I let the re-rebuild t case sit for a few days so that the RTV was good and cured before I installed it and filled her up. So this weekend I was able to get some time to get it installed and a test drive. After a very short time I found a small leak at the tail housing. After getting under there and inspecting it I originally thought it was an RTV failure but upon closure inspection and disassembly I found that my new rear case half has a crack. I could actually push ATF from the inside of the case with my finger and have it bubble up on the outside.
After thinking about it, I had noticed the crack when I originally rebuilt the case but didn't think it went all the way through and that it was just a casting defect. Obviously I was wrong. I emailed the guy I bought it from, he will most likely tell me to kick rocks.